A tribute to crafting the garment. A personal expression.
Balenciaga presents Summer ’24 from a red velvet-lined theatrical setting. Friends, family and colleagues are key influences. There is personal resonance. This show is a reflection of Demna’s world, and the identities that comprise his community.
It is scored by BFRND and explores a premise of sonic couture. The soundtrack features 3 aural elements – orchestra, piano and electronica – and a voiceover by Isabelle Huppert reciting instructions on how to make a tailored jacket from the manual La Veste Tailleur Homme, which was reformatted for the show invitation booklet. The audio was produced by Damien Quintard at Miraval Studios. Look 1 features Ella, the designer’s mother and first style inspiration, wearing an upcycled car coat. This piece is made of 3 deconstructed and repurposed vintage garments.
Tailoring consists of signature techniques and attitudes. A 2D effect is applied to create a flattened, straight shoulder without shoulder pads. Cuts are wide. Creases are added. Items are engineered in English wool with a couturier’s precision.
Daywear spans home to public settings. Long A-line skirts have removable panels that can be interchanged and removed for a shorter silhouette. Terry cloth bathrobes are used as coats. Jacket necklines are widened and dismantled so they can be worn off the shoulder and dropped on the arms with a nonchalant demeanour. A biker jacket is built of recycled deadstock leather panels. The clothing is presented as fundamental, pragmatic and stratified.
Eveningwear closes. Vinyl printed circle dresses in retro tablecloth floral schemes progress to upcycled gowns made of pieces sourced from vintage shops around Europe and the United States. The finale look features BFRND (the designer’s husband) wearing an amalgam of 7 wedding dresses from the pre-2000’s. They have been cut, tiered and piled together anew.
The collection holds sustainability innovations. Primarily, a lower-impact leather alternative called LUNAFORM™ is used in the construction of a floor-length bathrobe. It is the first time the material has been applied in fashion. It was specifically designed for Balenciaga. The animal and plastic-free textile is grown from fermented nanocellulose.
Accessories include the Rodeo, a new bag with a built-in open flap that gives the illusion of a classic leather carrier. Some are styled with heavy decorative chains. Stilettos and classic derbies obtain the function of a clutch. Other introductions include: textured leather Antwerp shoppers and a bag series imagined as soft and deconstructed luggage. A wallet takes the likeness of a passport, with inset leather boarding passes.
Footwear offers exaggerated proportions, tennis socks on heels and at-home comfort. Each shoe will be offered in a full range of both women’s and men’s sizes.
The new Cargo sneaker has oversized dimensions. 1,000 limited edition pairs – microfiber and mesh version – will be available directly after the show in an exclusive release.
This show represents what fashion is to Demna in its most personal way.