Backstage: Dries Van Noten Men's Spring/Summer 2027 Collection

“We started the collection with the desire to make something that feels light and delicate.” From its earliest sketches, the project unfolds like a memory half-remembered, shaped by creative director Julian Klausner’s reading of L’Après-midi d’un faune, Stéphane Mallarmé’s 1876 poem where a dreamlike creature drifts between waking and sleep, caught in “the haziness the verses depict” and the constant slipping between the real and the imagined.

That same suspended state defines the collection’s sensual grammar. “The idea of sensuality guided many of our choices,” Julian notes, as wardrobe staples dissolve into something intimate and unstable—“like a dream that vanishes upon waking up.” Lingerie suggestions run through the silhouettes: charmeuse silks, spaghetti straps as drawstrings, tank tops woven with hints of undress, and a cosmetic palette of blush and earthy tones lifted by nature’s greens and blues. The masculine wardrobe is seen “through hazy eyes that just woke up from an afternoon nap,” where tailoring flows and flutters, sequins shimmer like sun on water, and familiar forms are softened into garments that feel “loose, delicate, easy to remove, ready to fly away.”

photographs by Leon Prost