A Look Inside Cartier's Newly Designed Boutique In South Coast Plaza Inspired By The Environs Of Southern California

Cartier announces the recently completed renovation and expansion of its newly-designed Costa Mesa boutique, with the creative direction led by Moinard Betaille agency, who drew inspiration from Orange County’s diverse landscape—from its local vegetation to the shimmering waters at Laguna and Newport Beaches, and from the nearby Mojave Desert’s sweeping sand dunes to the cracked earth at Joshua Tree. The boutique’s overall design pairs modern shapes with the Maison’s timeless design codes and a touch of whimsical details. A Livatz glass canopy light inspired by the region’s ubiquitous skateparks adds a playful touch to the accessories and care service areas, while custom-designed chandeliers in the shape of dahlias—a symbol of eternal love—decorate the bridal area’s ceiling. The bridal area is also home to a lacquer and mother-of-pearl panel by Atelier Midavaine, depicting inspired by a High Jewelry brooch in the shape of an orchid native to Southern California. Visitors approaching the boutique will notice the unique three-dimensional façade, the first of its kind for the Maison in North America. Handcrafted in aqua resin with plaster details, it is intended to evoke a soft sea breeze wafting through the window, gathering the curtains in gentle pleats. Upon entry, guests are met with Cartier novelties set against a large panel depicting a panther by François Mascarello, fashioned in wood, straw, and mother-of-pearl marquetry. Local flora can be found throughout the boutique, including the handcrafted staff columns inspired by palm trees and the hand-painted Moss + Lam mural depicting a hyperreal portrait of local vegetation in dusty desert tones. The new boutique will be open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 am – 8:00 pm, and will offer a full range of creations, including jewelry, fine jewelry, watches, leather goods, fragrance, and Art of Living, in addition to other special collections. 3333 Bristol Street in the renowned South Coast Plaza shopping center.

Poem Of Fire: Esa-Pekka Salonen, Jean-Yves Thibaudet and Mathilde Laurent In Conversation

 
 

interview by Oliver Kupper
portrait by Pat Martin

The Greek myth of Prometheus is one of the most powerful metaphors for our current era of emergency. Seeing Earthly mortals living in the brutal, primitive dark, he steals fire from the gods and offers it to humans as a form of technology and knowledge that would become vital to civilization. Knowing that humans would destroy the world with this new resource, Prometheus was bound eternally to a rock by the gods, where his liver was eaten each morning by an eagle and regenerated each night. In 1911, Russian composer and theosophist Alexander Scriabin created Prometheus: The Poem of Fire; a short, powerful composition inspired by the myth. It was intended to be performed not only with sound but also with a synesthetic explosion of lights. In March of 2024, The San Francisco Symphony and Cartier presented a multisensory reimagining of Scriabin’s Prometheus with olfactory curation, led by Finnish conductor and composer Esa-Pekka Salonen, pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet, and Cartier’s in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent. Together, they discuss their immersive collaboration.

OLIVER KUPPER The myth of Prometheus, who gave the world fire, light, and inspiration very much fits within the milieu of levity. Through the lens of Alexander Scriabin's piece, what are your definitions of levity?

MATHILDE LAURENT The function of art is elevation. A way towards levity. This work, and the way Scriabin wanted to make all art forms meet, is really important nowadays. I think it helps us find a sense of optimism and light in our lives. Total art was a way to unite art with all the senses. This is where olfaction can help because it’s a very specific path in the brain and in the body. It is the only sense that creates unity between the brain, the heart, and the gut. This is a definition of ecstasy and of transcendence. So, we are here with French pianist Jean-Yves [Thibaudet] and Finnish conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen trying to create a transcendental experience toward light and joy.

JEAN-YVES THIBAUDET Beautiful. I agree with everything you said. God only knows how much we need to be elevated in this world with everything that's going on. That's why music is here too. I think music is the true elevation of the soul. After a concert, people would come to see me and say, “You know, for two hours you made me forget about all my problems, and it felt so good.” We are transporting people both with the music and the olfaction. We are taking them to another world. Now, Scriabin was probably a little crazy, in a good way. He was incredibly ahead of his time. I don't think he could show his pieces in the way we can do it now, certainly not with the lights. So, it was only an invention in his mind. And his music is very unique. You hear one chord of Scriabin and you know it couldn't be anybody else. I remember with Mathilde, when we heard it together—she was listening to it for the first time—how powerful it is. It's a power that is very hard to describe in words. He invented a language of harmonies, of colors. I can't even tell you how many years I've been dreaming about this project.

ESA-PEKKA SALONEN Prometheus is one of the most important myths. Today, we are facing, for the first time in the history of humankind, a moment where we are potentially using the tools we have developed to destroy not only ourselves, but the planet. And of course, it all started with Prometheus on a highly symbolic level. Scriabin’s Prometheus, The Poem Of Fire is technically a piano concerto. It's a piece that doesn't deal with the story in any particular narrative way. It's an expression of the ecstatic moment when Prometheus hands over the fire to humankind, which was, in his opinion, deserving of it. Scriabin was interested in this kind of mystical expression of joy and excitement. He was one of the pioneers of describing sexual love in his music. Not in concrete terms, but the sort of anticipation, excitement, and the climax. Scriabin somehow saw the act of Prometheus stealing the fire and giving it to humankind as not only the ultimate gift but also the ultimate sacrifice, because as we know, Prometheus was punished. So, it becomes almost like a physical manifestation of love. The only reason Prometheus gives the fire to humans is because he loves them. The Greek gods were fairly ordinary people, except that they were immortal. I think that's the center of this: the idea that what makes a life valuable and worthy is the fact that we know that it's finite. Every second counts.

KUPPER It's completely fascinating. Mathilde, you studied as a molecular chemist, which is the perfect background for somebody going into olfaction. Can you talk about your background in that?

LAURENT I wouldn't dare call myself a molecular chemist. I went to university to study chemistry, but I did not perform well. I only got my degree in chemistry to become a perfumer. I was scientific enough to get a degree. (laughs)

KUPPER What was it about olfaction that inspired you to begin with? I'm curious what your first memories of perfume were.

LAURENT I came to perfumery to express myself about the world and beauty—to offer something and to have a dialogue with other people. When I was a child, I was not only seeing and listening, I was smelling, touching, and tasting everything. I was hypersensitive. So, when I was thinking of choosing a job, I hesitated between architecture, photography, and perfumery. I was creative, so I needed a job with artistic expression. I was about to become a photographer, but then something interesting happened. I got a job writing articles for different psychoanalysts and scientists who were learning how a perfumer's brain works. This is when I realized that photography and perfumery are totally linked. Each smell has a photograph and each photograph has a smell.

KUPPER Both are very connected to memory.

LAURENT Exactly. They work together. I cannot smell something without printing an image in my mind. And now, I know that the brain works like that. You can register a photograph without the smell, but you cannot register a smell without a photograph of it. It’s the olfactory path I was speaking of previously. When you smell something, all of your senses are activated. Each time you detect a certain smell, you will come back to where you were, eating what you ate, listening to what you listened to, and feeling the same emotion, whether it’s a good or very bad one.

KUPPER It's very Proustian. Jean-Yves, I want to talk to you about your beginnings as a pianist because you were performing from a very young age.

THIBAUDET I was seven—a late bloomer. Growing up, I felt very lucky because I never thought of doing anything other than music, in particular, the piano. All my friends were having nightmares, saying, “We go to bed and think: what am I going to do when I grow up?” It was very heavy. So, I felt lucky. I said, “Well, I'll be a pianist.” I didn't know what it meant, but I thought it would just happen. My parents were not professional musicians, but music was very present at home and there was a piano. I also remember the sound of my father playing the violin. Music is almost like a smell for me. Music is also very much connected to memory and the brain in the same way that the other senses are.

KUPPER It's interesting that music and scent both have the language of notes. Mathilde, how did you write this score through the notes of olfaction?

LAURENT I just had to listen to the music. What I wanted to express through olfaction is what Jean-Yves and Esa-Pekka wanted to present to the audience through the music. So, I needed to have them tell me what they were feeling when playing, and the meaning of the different moments of the piece. It was about listening and sharing, and understanding the different instruments. We all agreed on three different areas in the piece: before the fire, the moment when the fire appears, and after the fire. Before the fire, the world was a dangerous place where man had to survive against thunder, cold, and wildness. Nature was an enemy. Immediately, I smell this place and I only have to evoke it: the smell of thunder, the smell of water, of ice, of anxiety, of cold nature, of wild vegetation, of humid earth, of stones.

KUPPER Esa-Pekka, when this was brought to you, how did you imagine the symphony hall adapting to this new olfactory technology?

SALONEN It's all about technology because every attempt to combine music and scent generally fails. We all know from experience that perfume lingers, because the alcohol, which carries the scent molecules, takes time to evaporate. Over a number of years, technology was developed to dry diffuse molecules without any carrier, which means that the experience is instantaneous and finite. You can accentuate things with the scent, and you can also regulate the intensity of it. It's all Wi­Fi-controlled. I went to see Mathilde in her lab in the Fondation Cartier building, pre-­pandemic. I was expecting to see a Severus Snape type of person mixing these vials. But no, her lab was all white with iMacs everywhere. And I said, “Mathilde, how do you create a scent? Do you experiment with various components and then come to the right one?” And she said, “Oh, no, no, no. Quite often, I conceive the scent in my dreams.” And then, she wakes up and writes it down. But she doesn't write it down as “This was the smell of daffodils in a field on an April morning.” She writes down an actual molecular formula. So, I realized that this is a highly sophisticated thing based on science and theory as much as sensitivity to fragrances. She had made thirteen scents based on Remembrance of Things Past, the big seven­-part novel by Marcel Proust. And the scents were stored in leather boxes with nothing to see inside—just the molecules, I guess. So, she opens the lid and I sniff one called l’Heure Perdue, the most Proustian one, she said, because it’s about the smells of childhood, of grandmotherly things. It's interesting because my grandmother was not a very good cook. She was not particularly warm as a person. There was very little that was grandmotherly about her. She definitely didn't bake cookies. I was smelling the sort of archetypal “good grandmother” and that was astonishing. I said to Mathilde, “This takes me to a childhood I didn’t have. It’s somebody else's story, not mine, but it's pleasant nevertheless.” It’s powerful.

Read the full interview in Autre #18 The Levity Issue (SS24). Click here to preorder

Hidden Gems by Kate Owen & Cathleen Peters

LEFT Eckhaus Latta nylon and wool sweater; Suss Knits alpaca and nylon dress; Araks polyamide and elastane panty; Cartier High Jewelry gold, emerald, rock crystal, onyx and diamond necklace.
RIGHT BITE responsible viscose and recycled polyester dress; Cartier Panthère de Cartier gold watch

photography by Kate Owen
styling by
Cathleen Peters
modeling by
Whizdom Williams & Zoe Louis
hair by
Rei Kawauchi
makeup by
Yui Sakamoto
manicure by
Stephanie Hernandez
photography assistance by Toby Sprague
styling assitance by
Sydney Sullivan

LEFT PRISCAVera polyester shirt
RIGHT Anne Ammarell wool sweater; Araks polyamide and elastane t-shirt

PRISCAVera polyester shirt; Cartier Juste un Clou gold and diamond bracelet

Jack Peters polyester and cotton shirt; Cartier Juste un clou gold tie pin and gold and diamond tie pin

Eckhaus Latta polyester shirt; Araks cotton bralette and panty; Cartier Agrafe gold and diamond earrings

LEFT FFORME viscose rib turtleneck; Cartier Agrafe gold and diamond bracelet
RIGHT Helmut Lang Cotton and polyester shirt; PRISCAVera leather bra and polyester skirt 

PRISCAVera viscose dress; Cartier Juste un Clou gold bracelet

Discover AMAZONICOIL: The New Ethnobotanical CBD Serum by Makeup Artist and Director Marco Castro

MARCO CASTRO® is the new beauty and skincare line created by renowned makeup artist and beauty expert Marco Castro. As a Peruvian immigrant, Castro draws inspiration from his love for Latinx culture, which he explores in both his makeup work and films. With work that has been recognized at over thirty film festivals, he has collaborated with respected artists such as Pedro Almodóvar and Nan Goldin, and his client portfolio features prominent names in the fashion space such as Luar, Calvin Klein, and Cartier.

In the development of his brand, Castro is committed to providing sustainable and mind-reawakening skin solutions using ethnobotanical ingredients sourced from the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest, including sacha inchi, wild buriti, and hemp-derived, full-spectrum CBD extract. With its mission to decolonize beauty standards and provide a platform for future generations to embrace their unique identities, the brand celebrates and promotes Latinx culture by spotlighting the ancestral Latinx language of beauty and placing it on a global stage. In an effort to create a better future for better humans, the brand has also become Leaping Bunny certified, testing all products on humans rather than animals.

For its initial offering, MARCO CASTRO® has launched AMAZONICOIL®, a beauty serum that can be used both topically for lightweight moisture that soothes the skin and reduces signs of aging, age spots, and acne scars, and orally to help with anxiety, stress, and pain relief while boosting the immune system with revitalized antioxidants and macronutrients. It is the result of years of research into Peruvian ethnobotany and the myriad health properties of its ingredients.