First Look: Sylvio Giardina Fall/Winter 2011/12

Sylvio Giardina's new fall-winter 2011/12 collection is based on experiments with brand new silhouettes. "The stylistic investigation aims at a moved centre of mass, an imbalanced balance which will change shapes, volumes and lengths made up together by asymmetrical panels to redesign the figure. It’s like an a architecture of the fabrics that re-edits proportions to give a new female identity which finds the final product and the subjective taste."  Giardina attempts to kill homogeneity whilst maintaing the tradition of Italian fashion and contemporary culture. For instance, "Embroideries on jersey fabric find new lines sew on together: no armhole for the sleeves, exaggerated curves set up by upside down strapless to emphasize décolleté (neckline). A synthetic colours palette, like helio-blue and yellow cadmium, joins anthracite grey and impure white of the wool of the pants, tube-dresses, jersey shirts and jackets." Primary fabrics, such as male-wools, fresh-wool, jersey-wool and crêpe wool are all embroidered in San Gallo, in Italy.

"Accessorizes break harmony with strong mirror and colored plexiglass buckles in relief on the tissues like sculptural elements. No prêt-à-porter, no Haute Couture, this is a collection full of contaminations: the most important from art and design influences, where Sylvio Giardina finds himself as spectator and artist."

www.syviogiardina.com

On the Verge: Stand & Deliver

Jennifer Mulhare, the brilliant, sartorially talented fashion editor of Pas Un Autre, called last night practically panting with excitement about a new line called Stand & Deliver. Designers of Stand and Deliver, Corey Parks, former basist of the band Nashville Pussy, and Johanna Logan, mix a rock n' roll ethos with an entirely earnest originality that will undoubtably make fashionistas all over the world wet with excitement. Its virtually impossible to find any mention of Stand & Deliver online, save for the behind the scenes video and some photos of the recently shot lookbook.

www.standanddeliverla.com

Balenciaga and Spain

Balenciaga and Spain examines the profound and enduring influence of Spain on the work of haute couture master Cristóbal Balenciaga. The impact of Spanish culture, history, and traditions is explored through the recurring themes in Balenciaga’s oeuvre and organized in the exhibition in six sections: Spanish Art, Regional Dress, the Spanish Court, Religious Life and Ceremony, the Bullfight, and Dance. Hamish Bowles, the European editor at large for Vogue, is guest curator. Balenciaga and Spain runs from March 26, 2011 to July 4, 2011. www.deyoung.famsf.org

UNDERCOVER

Silk and leather bag, metal clasp, metal and silk strap. Collection entitled "Underman" and built around an imaginary theme, The year is 20XX, the world in which the souls of the people have been incapacitated by the forces of evil, is empty. UNDERMAN is born to restore these lost souls. The battle against sorrow wages on.  Spring / Summer collection 2011. www.colette.fr

Cartier: The Power of Style

María Félix wearing her Serpent Clip earrings, 1971

The Cartier Collection reflects the evolution of Cartier's artistic and stylistic creation. Cartier: The Power of Style traces 160 years in the jeweler's glorious history. Three hundred and sixty-two pieces from the Cartier Collection--accessories, masterpieces of jewelry and watchmaking from the end of the nineteenth century to the present day--and four exceptional pieces from the Prince's Palace of Monaco are featured. These exceptional items offer insight into the royal jeweler's treasures and the sources of inspiration that lead to their creation. Commissioned photographs of these rare pieces, exclusive archival images, and biographical stories about their prestigious owners comprise this handsome volume.

Pair of Tiger ear clips, Cartier Paris, special order, 1961

Daisy Fellowes wearing the Tuttie Frutti necklace made of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds, made in 1936 Cigarette case, Cartier Paris, 1931, Platinum, modified baguette-cut diamond, The back of the lid is engraved with twenty signatures such as “Coco” for Coco Chanel, “Misia” for Misia Sert, “Fellowes” for Daisy Fellowes, “Vera” for Vera de Bosset, “Peggy” for Peggy Guggenheim, “Etienne” for Etienne de Beaumont, inside the case “Cécile” for Cécile Sorel, “Elsie” for Elsie de Wolfe, “Johnnie” for Prince Jean-Louis de Faucigny- Lucinge, and other friends unfortunately impossible to identify today. Sold to the Baron de Meyer, photographer Snake necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1968, Platinum, white gold and yellow gold, 2,473 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds weighing 178.21 carats in total, two pear-shaped emeralds (eyes), green, red, and black enamel, Made as a special order for María Félix

Sir Yadavindra Singh, wearing a ceremonial necklace, Cartier, created in 1936

You can find Cartier: The Power of Style here.

At the Rainbow House - Director's Cut

Starring Devendra Banhart and Rebecca Schwartz, the premise of the Oliver Peoples 2011 campaign is an exploration of authentic intimacy and sexuality. The love affair is explored in the one-of-a-kind masterpiece by architect John Lautner: Rainbow House. Produced with acclaimed photographer and aspiring director Lisa Eisner.

SHIN MURAYAMA / I Don't Like Mondays

Shin Murayama 'Shoe Face'

Online concept boutique I Don't Like Mondays' Gallery is "an evolving project focused on offering true rarities of fashion."  In collaboration with artists and designers, IDLM's gallery offers "one-of-a-kind and limited edition garment art" that is exclusively available. "IDLM always aims for designers who push the boundaries of fashion, these artists go one step further and blur the lines between art and apparel." This time around IDLM has joined forces with Japanese born artist and designer Shin Murayama.

Shin Murayama 'Mandrill Nose'

Shin Murayama 'Sock Eater'

www.idontlikemondays.us

Hunted

Tucked away in a literal sliver of a store front on Divisadero Street, in San Francisco, is a mysteriously intriguing new accessories shop called Hunted. Apparently they'd been open for only a few days when I paid a visit. I walked inside where a single shelf on the right side of the boutique was draped with hypnotizing antique jewelry, pocket books, hand bags, and other collected ephemera. Hunted is a brilliantly simple one stop outpost of elegant jewelry absolutely well worth a visit. 843 Divisadero Street, San Francisco, CA 94117  www.huntedsf.com