Rich In Your Ways: An Interview of Polite Society Designer Surmai Jain

 

Surmai Jain founder of Polite Society

 


interview by Parrie Chhajed


In the bustling streets of Bandra, nestled in a quiet corner, sits Polite Society Shop No.1. With an innovative approach to sustainable design, the label doesn’t just sell clothes; it facilitates an honest and respectful dialogue between its customers and the environment. Surmai Jain, founder and creative director, spent her formative years living between India, New York, and Armenia. This uniquely diverse life experience afforded her an aesthetic sensibility that is both coyly dramatic and delicately balanced. In just five years, she has built a brand whose concerted approach to responsible sourcing and scaling has bolstered her creative outcomes and earned her a loyal and steadily growing clientele.

PARRIE CHHAJED: I’d love to start with the story behind the name Polite Society. Where did it come from?

SURMAI JAIN: When I was naming the brand, I had my name, Surmai Jain, as an option. But I wanted it to feel more like a community, more like a society. While conducting research, the name 'Polite Society’ came to mind. It’s an old literary term referring to people with really good manners and a high standard of wealth. I thought it would be ironic for us to take that because money isn’t all that makes you rich. We have a tagline that says, “You can be rich in your ways,” which sums it all up.

CHHAJED: Your approach to modernity and individuality is very unique. What is the guiding philosophy behind the brand?

JAIN: I started from Rajasthan, went to Armenia, later Bombay, and then to New York. By the time I was twenty-five years old, when I started the label, I felt like I had already seen so many cultures and met so many different people who inspired me through life. Each place has made a very different impact on me, and it has shaped my understanding of the world. All of that helps me design for everyone: a woman, a man, or whoever. When we’re closing in on a design, I imagine myself or someone else wearing it. Do they feel good wearing it?

CHHAJED: How have your experiences in Mumbai, New York, and Armenia—places with wildly different perspectives on fashion—shaped your design sensibility?

JAIN: Fashion practices are different all over. In India, art is synonymous with what artisans are doing. It’s all about their legacies and heritage. In New York, it’s about individuality and self-expression. So, I take a little bit of everything. I also grew up painting and designing, and over time, I found my method of expression.

CHHAJED: Do you feel the way those traits translate specifically in your designs?

JAIN: I go through phases. Right now, I’m feeling more connected to my roots. Maybe it’s just being thirty-two. For this collection, and then the next one, we took inspiration from Rajasthan and used more techniques like Leheriya. Initially, I felt more like a modern designer, but as you search for more inspiration, it comes from your own stories. When you go deeper, being from a certain place makes those things feel valuable. Tomorrow, it could be something else. I might travel to some place and find inspiration there. We did handwork this time, and that’s been incredible. We did a banana leather appliqué with studs. Which is exciting because we are taking the handloom as a base, but doing it differently. 

Banana Leather Keychains

CHHAJED: I think that’s what translating our culture into the language of modernity is all about at the end of the day. Your career path took you from painting to graphic design, and ultimately, to fashion. Do those varying disciplines inform one another? 

JAIN: A hundred percent. It’s all because of that. For example, if you look at the space. We took a lot of time designing it and attending to the smallest details. When you do graphics, you see the same thing in a different light. So, whether you’re designing clothes or a space, you have to have your aesthetics and philosophy in place. Because I learned graphics as a medium, I did our initial branding myself. It was important to make my own universe first and then bring people in and expand it. Right now, we are doing a little rebrand, so I went to someone else and asked for help, but I wasn’t able to outsource in the beginning.

With painting, one of the key pieces that we started with was a few shirts that had illustrations on them. Those were hand-done by me. So initially,  there was a lot of work that I would do myself to set the tone.

CHHAJED: What are the key elements of Polite Society’s design language?

JAIN: One major thing that I like to do is blend the highs and the lows. It’s interesting to create an odd contrast that looks beautiful with elements like finished and unfinished hems. Or in the store, you can see how the glass meets the concrete. One of the earlier key pieces we had at the store was a half-and-half pant that started as a pair of trousers and then transitioned to denim. I like to play with contrast and then balance the femininity with a little bit of masculinity. If we design a dress, I like to add an element to make it a little masculine. It always has to be balanced.

CHHAJED: Can you talk about the brand’s approach to sustainability and if there have been any hurdles that you’ve faced in pursuit of it?

JAIN:  Many companies don’t talk about it, but sometimes you have a bad lot. Once, we sent our denim for a wash, and it came back spoiled. What do you do with it? It hurts because of the work that has already been put in. So, we used that fabric and made corsets. That piece is completely made from deadstock that we couldn’t use. Everyone loved it, and we even considered trying to wash our denim like this.

AAdditionally we've tried some new accessories. These key chains are made from banana leather. Because why not? I met someone who was doing that, and I think it’s better than using animal products.

CHHAJED: What are some of the other non-fashion influences that shape your work in general?

JAIN: Music culture influences me because I grew up listening to a lot of R&B. Often, when you’re designing, you think, If she wore it, that would be nice. For me, it’s always powerful women who are in music and owning it. You can see that being translated into the designs. It wasn’t just about being objectified. It was the overall aura and personality.

CHHAJED: Are there any musicians whose work you’ve translated in any of your collections?

JAIN: Georgia Smith. During one of the earlier collections, I would listen to her the whole time. There are now these women like Sabrina, but back when I was in school, we had Rihanna. I feel like no matter what, the world always comes back to her. 

CHHAJED: Polite Society has a unique niche. How do you approach marketing and building your audience?

JAIN: I just try to stay true to myself. A lot is going on in the industry, and everyone’s just trying to make space for themselves. As designers in this competitive space, if you let that get to you, it will not go well for your mental health. Early on, I felt like I could connect with my consumers. We had experiences that fortified the idea that if I had a store tomorrow, they would show up. We did pop-ups in our studio in Marol, and people were willing to come all the way there to try on pieces. When we saw them try it on and immediately get convinced, that’s when we knew we were doing something right. Those small moments shaped it all.

Being in touch with the consumer has helped. We don’t work in isolation. We opened a studio so people could come in and talk. I always ask, “Which one do you like? What do you not like? What would you want?” People are pretty honest. We have also been working with cool singers and artists from the start, like Kavya Trehan and Liza Mishra, who’ve grown alongside us and fostered a sense of community. They still want to wear Polite.

For the marketing aspect, you need clarity of vision. You need to know where you want to go and make choices on how to grow.

CHHAJED: Sticking to your brand value is difficult in such a saturated world. What have been some of the biggest challenges of running an independent label in India?

JAIN: One massive challenge is producing things. In this space, you either know how to get it done or figure it out doing your own. It’s not organized; you can’t just say, “I want this done this way” and expect someone to do it for you. It comes through experience and team building. As you grow, people’s expectations increase daily. We want to meet those expectations, but it takes a lot of effort. While it’s challenging to grow, maintaining what you’ve done at a smaller scale is equally important.

I learned pattern making because I had to. Otherwise, I would just be imagining random things. You should be able to tell someone, even if not to the letter, how you want it constructed. If you can’t let go and communicate that to someone else, it’s over.

And also the team. I tend to have designers who aren’t afraid to try things, do trials, and drape it themselves. It’s not just about drawing on a piece of paper; it’s a lot of hands-on work.

 
 

CHHAJED: What does the future hold for Polite Society?

JAIN: We’re just trying to take it where it can go. We want to start with India properly and place ourselves in the major cities. Polite Society does have online purchases, but I know that our audience likes to try things on before they buy. I’m traveling and working simultaneously, but these are the steps required for placing yourself on the map. And I also love meeting other creators. I’m traveling to London for work soon. I haven’t done this since New York, which was a while ago, so now, of course, I want to do things outside; outside of studios, and the city, and get ourselves as far out there.

CHHAJED: What piece of advice would you give to aspiring designers who want to have their own space in the industry?

JAIN: Be true to yourself. Your brand vision has to come from within. If you’re looking up to other designers, don’t look to copy or recreate it. You don’t want that. You just want to be you. Business-wise, everything has to make you money. Designers often forget this because they think some angel is going to come and things will suddenly work out commercially.

If you’re building a business, then you have to get your numbers right. Are you making sure that this is something you can replicate at least ten times to make some money? Is it something that can sustain in the industry, or is it just uplifting? 

Rooted, Relevant, and Evolving: Rajiv Menon on Redefining South Asian Diasporic Art

 
 


interview by Parrie Chhajed

With each new generation of immigrants from South Asia making their way to the various corners of the world, so too does their culture and unique interpretation thereof. With the context of comparison, they offer perspectives on their homeland that challenge the idea of authenticity deriving from one’s geographic placement. Thus is the crux of Non-Residency, a group show that comprises sixteen artists of South Asian diasporic identity curated by Rajiv Menon. Bringing the work of non-resident South Asian artists directly to Jaipur is a first for the young gallerist and curator who opened Rajiv Menon Contemporary in Hollywood, California, in his quest to bolster representation of the Indian diaspora within the United States. He refers to these artists as the Non-Resident School, effectively defining a voice of Non-Resident Indian (NRI) taste that is both united and richly diverse by way of its orientation.

Sahana Ramakrishnan
The People Under The Sea

PARRIE CHHAJED: First off, congratulations on the exhibition. The work and the scale of the gallery is quite remarkable.

RAJIV MENON: Thank you so much. It’s really been a mission of mine to bring South Asian art to the U.S. and build a new audience for what I believe is some of the most important work happening globally. Seeing such a meaningful response has been incredibly rewarding.

CHHAJED: Let’s start with Non-Residency. It’s a cleverly charged title. How did it come about, and what does it mean to you personally?

MENON: One of the early inspirations was the ongoing cultural debate around “NRI taste.” I was very attuned to the perception of this gap in sensibility between India and its diaspora. While that gap is real, I wanted to understand its emotional and social underpinnings—and more importantly, how those conditions can be fertile grounds for art-making. I didn’t want this to be just an art exhibition. I wanted Non-Residency to act as an intervention in the culture itself—to challenge how we think about the relationship between the motherland and its diaspora, and to elevate diasporic voices as central, not peripheral, to the narrative of Indian art.

CHHAJED: This is also your first professional project in India and the first time a singular gallery is showcasing at the Jaipur Centre for Art. How does that feel both personally and professionally?

MENON: Immense. I’ve always been in awe of Indian galleries—their coherence, their mission, the way they’re contributing to defining India’s national visual identity. That spirit is what I wanted to engage with. As a diasporic gallery, we don’t operate within India’s territorial boundaries, but we are equally invested in its cultural perception globally. This exhibition is my way of asserting that the diaspora isn’t just looking in from the outside—we’re in dialogue. We’re translating, challenging, and innovating alongside what’s happening in India.

CHHAJED: The exhibition is set in Jaipur’s historic City Palace, yet it tackles themes like migration, displacement, and otherness. How did the palace’s context influence your curatorial choices?

MENON: I really wanted to play with that irony—the grandeur of a heritage space colliding with deeply contemporary diasporic narratives. Jaipur, in the Western and diasporic imagination, often represents fantasy and opulence. By placing diasporic work in that setting, it creates a tension. The goal was to force the viewer to confront that gap and start a dialogue between heritage and the now. The Jaipur Centre’s mission aligns with this—to open up heritage spaces to contemporary voices, and that made it the perfect partner.

CHHAJED: What was the initial spark for this exhibition—what made you feel that Non-residency was needed now?

MENON: Over the past few years, I’ve seen a distinct shift in diasporic art—a cohort of artists in conversation with each other, building something that felt like a movement. I’m calling them the Non-resident School—artists working through similar themes and aesthetics, but with singular visions. Many are already in major museum and private collections, but the world wasn’t seeing it as a movement yet. Non-residency is my way of announcing that. It’s a statement: This is not isolated brilliance—it’s a cultural wave that’s reshaping how South Asian identity is viewed globally.

Kelly Sinnapah
Mary Violette’s Book The Girl with 3 Eyes, 2025
JCG18987
photograph by Christopher Burke Studio

As if Hoque Up Up And Away

CHHAJED: And that wave is definitely visible—not just in art, but across music, fashion, and literature as well.

MENON: Absolutely. Indian fashion, in particular, has had such an incredible global presence lately. When I meet young designers and creatives from India, there’s this shared vision—to show that Indian aesthetics are not just relevant, but leading on the world stage. Whether it’s garments or fine art, we’re participating in the same cultural project. That’s why it’s so important to me that my gallery also acts as a platform to showcase fashion and other creative expressions from India.

CHHAJED: Diasporic identity is often framed through nostalgia. But this exhibition feels like a break from that. Was that intentional?

MENON: Very much so. One of my biggest critiques of diasporic work is its frequent fixation on the past. I wanted this show to be about the future—about innovation. The artists featured are using their identities not to look back longingly, but to create something new. This is about possibility, not just memory. I wanted to challenge the idea that diasporic work is a diluted echo of Indian culture. It’s not. It’s its own form—rooted, relevant, and evolving.

Installation view. Non-Residency. Jaipur Centre for Art 2025

CHHAJED: That’s a powerful shift. You’ve also spoken about moving away from “authenticity” as a standard for Indian art. Can you elaborate?

MENON: The notion that work must be created in India to be authentically Indian is limiting—and frankly outdated. Authenticity is not fixed. It evolves. What we think of as “authentic Indian culture” today is different from fifty or a hundred years ago. Diasporic art is no less authentic just because it’s created elsewhere. It reflects the lived experiences and social contexts of the artists. If we continue to gatekeep Indian culture through rigid authenticity, we miss out on incredible new voices and visions.

CHHAJED: The artist list for Non-Residency includes a rich mix of intersectional identities. Was that intentional?

MENON: I don’t believe curation should be a box-ticking exercise. But if you’re genuinely tuned into the landscape, diversity happens naturally. I wanted to present a wide spectrum of diasporic experience—not just the dominant post-1965 immigration narrative. That’s why including Indo-Caribbean artists was essential. Their work speaks to layered displacements and complex racial and cultural identities. This isn’t just about representing different experiences—it’s about expanding the aesthetic language of the diaspora.

Installation view. Non-Residency. Jaipur Centre for Art 2025

CHHAJED: What was the process like of choosing the artists and curating the show?

MENON: A joy. The majority of the works were created specifically for this show. Many artists responded to the location of Jaipur itself. Anoushka Mirchandani, for example, created a painting in response to Jackie Kennedy’s iconic shoot in Jaipur. Nibha Akireddy, who’s currently in residency at JCA, explored the history of women polo players in the region. The curatorial framework—non-residency as both a social and aesthetic concept—also led me to explore the uncanny. There’s a distortion, a doubling that diasporic artists often experience when engaging with the homeland. That tension became an aesthetic throughline across the works.

CHHAJED: Earlier this year, you also launched a permanent space in Hollywood. How has the journey been of creating a gallery focused on South Asian art in the U.S.?

MENON: There was a huge gap on the West Coast for South Asian art, and the response has been incredible. Not just from the diaspora but from the broader art community. Museums have been especially supportive, and that’s a major signifier of cultural impact. But yes, one of the challenges is the lack of cultural literacy—many Americans don’t have a deep understanding of India. That’s why our gallery isn’t just commercial—it’s educational. I want people to understand the context, the complexity, and the multiplicity of Indian art.

CHHAJED: How did the collaboration with the Jaipur Centre come about?

MENON: I attended their opening last year and was deeply moved. Noelle Kadar and HRH Sawai Padmanabh Singh have a truly global vision for Indian art. It felt like the perfect place to make a cultural statement, to bridge the diaspora and the homeland. Their level of ambition and taste matched the gallery’s, and the collaboration just made sense.

CHHAJED: Were there any surprises along the way?

MENON: The journey is still unfolding—the show installs next week! While I visit India often and it feels like home, bringing art here as a business is a new experience. There’s been a learning curve, but this is only the beginning. We’ll also be showing at the India Art Fair in February and plan to keep India as a consistent part of our programming.

CHHAJED: If Non-residency is a homecoming, what’s next?

MENON: In September, we take on a different kind of homecoming—I’ll be curating a show in my hometown of Houston, Texas, at the Untitled Art Fair. The theme will also be homecoming, and like all my curatorial work, it’s deeply personal. I think this pair of shows—India and Houston—reflects the scope of my own identity and vision. After that, we’ll show at Untitled Miami during Art Basel and continue regular programming in our Los Angeles gallery.

Non-Residency is on view through October 5 @ Jaipur Centre for Art Gate No. 1, City Palace, Pink City, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302002

 

Rajiv Menon at the opening of Non-Residency at Jaipur Centre for Art