Charles Atlas, Still from Mrs Peanut Visits New York 1999 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York.
For featured artists and collaborators, the retrospective is a "gift from beyond the grave.”
text by Maisie McDermid
This spring, the Tate Modern will take on the ambitious role of showcasing the rich life of Leigh Bowery— one of the most bold and original artists of the 20th century. While Bowery was many things to many people –artist, performer, club kid, model, TV personality, fashion designer, and musician— his mission of resisting convention always remained the same.
In Bowery's short but full life, he challenged norms of aesthetics, sexuality, and gender– and wasn’t subtle about it. His lively self-expressions shocked and stuck with those lucky enough to witness his presence. His otherworldly costumes and makeup always pushed the limits of taste and gender. It’s no wonder he named his notorious club night Taboo. In a first of its kind retrospective, Tate Modern will display not only Bowery's outlandish and dazzling costumes but also other works produced by friends and collaborators including paintings by Lucian Freud, photography by Nick Knight, and films by Charles Atlas and John Maybury.
Charles Atlas, Still from Because We Must 1989 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York.
The exhibition covers Bowery's arrival in London from Australia in 1980 to his ventures into music with his band, MINTY, near the end of his life in the early ‘90s. Emerging alongside notable figures like Scarlett Cannon, Boy George, and Princess Julia, Bowery had a large impact on London's legendary ‘80s nightlife. Opened in 1985, Taboo was the center of an underground club culture notorious for its hedonism and New Romantic decadence. His dress code for these events: "Dress as though your life depends on it, or don't bother."
Capturing all that Bowery accomplished is no easy feat. "Anyone who has the courage to attempt a show about the work of Leigh Bowery– and within an institution like Tate Modern– deserves all the support we can give them," said Michael Clark, dancer, choreographer, and long-time collaborator of Bowery. However, Clark wonders if they may encounter limitations on what they should display. "Will they show the shawl he painstakingly made for my work in the early ‘90s – a pixelated portrait of Adolf Hitler made from the rags Lucian Freud had used to wipe his brushes clean on? I doubt it. But in situations like this, I try to keep an open mind."
Sofia Vranou, a teaching associate at Queen Mary University of London, penned the first full-length critical exploration of Bowery’s practice in her forthcoming book, Leigh Bowery: Performative Costuming and Living Art. Thirty years after Bowery's death, Vranou believes that his work is more relevant than ever.
Nigel Parry - Photoshoot at home (c) Nigel Parry
"Revisiting Bowery's work is not just about appreciating his artistic innovation but recognizing his legacy as a cultural figure who fought against the very forces that are attempting to reassert rigid definitions of "acceptable" bodies, behaviours, and identities… His commitment to challenging societal norms—whether related to gender, beauty, or traditional roles— can be seen as a sort of resistance that continues to resonate in the face of rising conservatism.”
Visitors will have the opportunity to closely examine his detailed costumes, created in collaboration with Nicola Rainbird, who later became his wife, and corsetier, Mr. Pearl. The bold costumes speak for themselves— a collection of exaggerated shapes, neon patterns, and wildly sewn gems, jewels, and buttons. Photographs by Fergus Greer will demonstrate how Bowery revolutionarily brought these designs to life. Including yet another immersive exhibition attribute, a music and video installation, made especially for the exhibition by filmmaker and resident DJ at Taboo Jeffrey Hinton, will sensually bring viewers into the energetic Taboo scene.
Leigh Bowery! will also showcase Bowery's boundary-pushing performances. "The role of performer almost certainly gave him the greatest freedom of expression, especially in non-institutional spaces like nightclubs,” said Vranou. “For many years, Bowery was celebrated as a fashion designer. Therefore, I hope the Tate exhibition reestablishes his legacy as a performance artist."
In 1984, Bowery designed costumes for Michael Clark's dance works, marking the beginning of a long-lasting friendship and collaboration. Within the exhibition, excerpts from Charles Atlas's semi-fictional documentary Hail the New Puritan (1985) and the film Because We Must (1989) represent their unique partnership. Clark himself looks forward to the new life the exhibit will bring to Bowery's works.
Costume Photography Leigh Bowery Tate Photography
"Leigh's work was made to be seen. I consider the audience to be the ultimate collaborators. The next generation reveals more and more as they are exposed to these existing works in new contexts, spatially and with fresh eyes," said Clark. "So, for the late, great, larger-than-life masterpiece which was Leigh Bowery, this is a most welcome and long overdue gift to us, from Leigh, from beyond the grave."
Leigh Bowery! opens Bowery's life to those curious to explore the complex and creative figure who left a distinct and undeniable mark on contemporary art, club culture, and beyond.
Bowery’s exhibition will be on display at the Tate Modern from February 27 to August 31, 2025. Tickets are available on the Tate Modern website.