Highlights from Acne Studios' Winter 24 Presentation

Inspired by industrial materials and the human form, Acne’s winter 24 collection features a blend of toughness and craftsmanship in leather and denim garments. It is staged against the backdrop of two large-scale sculptures made from recycled tires by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo. These sculptures, titled Chairs in Rubber (2001), represent a fusion of craftiness and industrial aesthetics.

“I consider myself a sculptor in the most traditional sense. What interests me about working with tires is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material: it requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tire makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque.

”For my artworks, I have often used recycled materials, such as used car tires or utilized fluorescent tubes. Environmental issues have been important in terms of employing these, but to me, what’s even more interesting is the trace that the former lives have left to the recycled things I use for making something new, also the idea of putting something familiar into a new context,” says the artist Villu Jaanisoo.

The collection embodies a fast and futuristic woman, reshaping Acne Studios' signature codes of denim and leather with a raw, mechanical twist. It juxtaposes elevated femininity with a tough attitude, subverting traditional archetypes of womenswear. Classic elements like fur (both faux and shearling), ladylike handbags, a timeless black dress, and leather are reimagined with a contemporary edge.

“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late ’90s was called ‘leather and denim;’ two things that belong together. This season, we’ve created a powerful leather and denim woman. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements. Denim and leather can transcend genre and subcultures — from punk to S&M. When you want to feel tough you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels right. An empowering safety zone,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

Discover Celine's Womenswear Winter 24 'L'Arc de Triomphe' Collection & Celine Beauté

"La Collection de l'Arc de Triomphe" reflects back on the 1960s, the golden age of Celine, capturing the essence and spirit of the house through coordinated looks and authentic reweaved materials. Ready-to-wear pieces are combined with hand-embroidered couture items, while felt caps offer a ’60s reinterpretation of the classic Celine baseball cap.

Upon his arrival at Celine in 2018, Hedi Slimane reintroduced the "Triomphe" emblem, featuring it prominently on the Triomphe bag, which he designed on his first day. The Triomphe bag quickly became a new classic for the house, symbolizing its core essence and values.

“La collection de l’Arc de Triomphe” film marks the birth of Celine Beauté, the first cosmetics line in the house’s history. Models wear “La Peau Nue” rose naturel lipstick, one of the fifteen shades of the “Le Rouge Celine” collection that will be available in 2025. The Celine Beauté collection will launch this autumn with the first satin lipstick shade “Rouge Triomphe.”

model wearing black wool riding cap with triomphe logo, black sunglasses and black neoprene tank with black beaded collar

Ready When Worn: the Avant-Première of MM6 Maison Margiela AW24

For the Avant premiere of AW24, MM6 explores the liminal state of a silhouette morphing between urban cool and couture refinement. Looks hover in limbo. Elegance with wit, puns and double entendres. Clothes that aren’t ready-to-wear: they’re ready when worn, molding to the character of the wearer. Oblique references to Man Ray bring an undercurrent of bohemian elegance, evoking artists, celebrities, friends, lovers and other singular types who move through life like it’s a work of art. Characters inhabiting an uncannily parallel world, with unexpected textures, raw finishes and, of course, white paint.

The familiar skews obscure as staples and archival garments adopt new attitudes, blending minimalism with maximalism on vintage-leaning pieces and riffing on classic masculine codes of dress, with cleverly placed darts reconfiguring silhouettes and tailoring language extended to pieces considered outside the traditional tailoring realm.
Pockets come to the fore as functional, multiple, exaggerated emblems of utility, with asymmetrical placements creating critical distance from the usual technical sportswear tropes.

For night, a bedding theme plays out in Lycra bodysuits and dresses in an allover trompe l’oeil quilt print as well as on a pink t-shirt with a flocked Party Bear motif lifted from an old kids’ duvet. True to MM6 codes, humble materials become ornamental: the lining of a black dress is pulled out, twisted and looped around the neck to create intriguing yet elegant volumes. Waistbands are flipped to create couture-like tulip hem effects, and tops are slashed with zips, sexing up something quite mundane. Roughly hewn “replacement” panels on pants suggest customization as hard-loved, well-worn clothing, like sun-bleached ribbed knits and ultra-wrinkled stonewashed denim, take on a new personality. A white cotton shirt, biker jacket and trench coat are gutted and reconstructed with all the details flattened out, their open collars and cuffs sewn into place permanently.

As if lifted from a construction site, a bucket and a rubble sack join the MM6 accessories universe as a molded EVA bucket bag and a tote. Footwear additions include a cream version of the Anatomic clog, a vulcanized lace-up, the Stitch-Out Anatomic boot with a raised ridge detail on the toe and the Tube boot with an anatomic toe, cigarillo heel and wide shaft in suede. Throughout, a sleek monochromatic palette of black, white, camel, gray and chalk is enlivened with shades of green and jolts of pink.

The season also marks the launch of the first ready-to-wear collaboration with Salomon: a capsule of minimalist classics — a five-zip mackintosh, a five-pocket jean, a shell jacket with long body zips, a classic men’s tuck-in shirt — are made from bonded Gore-Tex, bringing an almost alien functionality to a cityscape. The complementary Seamless line blends influences from compression base layers worn by athletes to speed recovery and MM6 bodysuits on a compression top, leggings, arm warmers and a bodysuit. The Water Bottle bag, the Trailblazer.

Pocket Backpack and a cap complete the lineup. By focusing on simple gestures that transform everyday dressing, MM6 continues its exploration of clothing, form and wearability. Pieces spark an immediate connection and play on the duality of perception, slipping easily into a wardrobe purposefully prepared to let personality shine through.

model standing profile wearing long black knit turtleneck and baggy black parachute trousers with back bubbly tabi boots

Prototypes' AW24 Lookbook Is Bringing It Back to Grassroots

 
 

photography by Raphael Bliss
styling by Betsy Johnson
hair by Charlie Le Mindu
makeup by Stephanie Kunz
casting by Conan Laurendot

The commercial use of sports uniforms as merchandise is perpetually being updated from one season to the next, which is why they lend themselves perfectly to a brand like Prototypes that is guided by the principles of upcycling and repurposing. Their newest collection goes beyond the age-old practice within the industry of cultural appropriation to the point of a complete aesthetic cannibalism, and instead serves as an homage to the communal role that local football clubs play within the social fabric of British culture. In this collection we see the groundskeeper, the kitman, the coach, and the youth — they are archetypes within the community that define each passing generation. Each club bears the DNA of its locality, passing down its individualized values of teamwork, physical fitness, stewardship within the field, and honor. For Prototypes Series 06, which was shot at a local club in England with collaborative partner Betsy Johnson, these values are encapsulated in a collection that breathes new sartorial life into that which might otherwise be discarded as old merch. As working class Brits currently bear witness to the gentrification of their most beloved sport, Prototypes is bringing it back to grassroots by sponsoring kits for the club’s new women’s team. 

 
 
 
 
 

XIMONLEE's AW24 Collection Looks at Cloth As A Language in Wrapping

 
 


photography by Xie Wenhao
styling by DeSe Escobar
styling assistance by Rebecca Rendina
hair by Ushka Nochi Tela
beauty by DeSe Escobar
casting by Jose Maria

From Japanese bondage art to traditional gift wrapping, XIMONLEE’s Autumn Winter 2024 collection takes eclectic inspirations and incorporates them into elegant day-to-day wear. As a general principal, the brand is committed to approaching its research by exploring disparate extremities in pursuit of a romantic wardrobe for all genders.

We can see a continuation of the brand’s signature leather coats and jackets with their chain-lock design and their oversized lapels with a handcrafted crease effect in the outerwear. The womenswear addresses drapery in ways that are at times classical and at others coquettish, wrapping the body like a present so as to gently play with notions of restraint. From lightweight maxi skirts and deconstructed gowns, to tops that are made for all occasions. After several seasons of exploring gender-neutral characteristics, the new collection marks the merging of masculine and feminine images within the brand’s discreet yet innovative aesthetic.