Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

This May 6 the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York will present Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - a posthumous retrospective of the late designer's brilliant career. The exhibition, organized by The Costume Institute, will celebrate Alexander McQueen's extraordinary contributions to fashion. From his postgraduate collection of 1992 to his final runway presentation which took place after his death in February 2010, Mr. McQueen challenged and expanded "the understanding of fashion beyond utility to a conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity."

His iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. Approximately one hundred examples will be on view, including signature designs such as the bumster trouser, the kimono jacket, and the Origami frock coat, as well as pieces reflecting the exaggerated silhouettes of the 1860s, 1880s, 1890s, and 1950s that he crafted into contemporary silhouettes transmitting romantic narratives. Technical ingenuity imbued his designs with an innovative sensibility that kept him at fashion's vanguard.

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty: May 4, 2011–July 31, 2011 - www.metmuseum.org

 

Claude Montana: Fashion Radical

Claude Montana's eponymous, and infamous, brand went bankrupt at either exactly the right time or wrong time - the late 90s - before google, before animated gifs, and before blogs. As the world of high fashion entered the 21st century haute couture became saturated and the glamour died as the gilded lid of exclusivity and luxury was peeled slowly away.  Famous designers at their zenith became zealously celebrated, and with the tsunami of the blogosphere designers became objects of only a post-modern, digital obsession. Claude Montana, whose career is now being celebrated with a new book, dominated the fashion scene in the 80s and 90s, and now serves as inspiration to many of this century's designers. www.thamesandhudson.com

[FASHION] Gary Graham Spring 2011

Gary Graham is a designer to watch. Hailing from Wilmington, Delaware Graham's background in costume and textile design has attributed to the unique signature of his brand: strong heritage, luxury and richness of creativity in the meticulous craftsmanship of his pieces that are hand dyed, hand sewn, and hand finished. Gary Graham lives and works in New York. www.garygrahamnyc.com

[VIDEO] Rodarte: States of Matter

Rodarte: States of Matter, at the MoCA, is the first West Coast solo exhibition of the work of fashion and costume designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. In this video, Kate and Laura talk about the stories that have inspired their collections and the physical processes their materials go through. This intimate look at more than 20 pieces from Rodarte’s Spring 2010, Fall 2010, and Fall 2008 runway collections, as well as original ballet costumes designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy from Rodarte for the feature film Black Swan, was directed by Felipe Lima, with original music by No Age. www.moca.org

First Look: Sylvio Giardina Fall/Winter 2011/12

Sylvio Giardina's new fall-winter 2011/12 collection is based on experiments with brand new silhouettes. "The stylistic investigation aims at a moved centre of mass, an imbalanced balance which will change shapes, volumes and lengths made up together by asymmetrical panels to redesign the figure. It’s like an a architecture of the fabrics that re-edits proportions to give a new female identity which finds the final product and the subjective taste."  Giardina attempts to kill homogeneity whilst maintaing the tradition of Italian fashion and contemporary culture. For instance, "Embroideries on jersey fabric find new lines sew on together: no armhole for the sleeves, exaggerated curves set up by upside down strapless to emphasize décolleté (neckline). A synthetic colours palette, like helio-blue and yellow cadmium, joins anthracite grey and impure white of the wool of the pants, tube-dresses, jersey shirts and jackets." Primary fabrics, such as male-wools, fresh-wool, jersey-wool and crêpe wool are all embroidered in San Gallo, in Italy.

"Accessorizes break harmony with strong mirror and colored plexiglass buckles in relief on the tissues like sculptural elements. No prêt-à-porter, no Haute Couture, this is a collection full of contaminations: the most important from art and design influences, where Sylvio Giardina finds himself as spectator and artist."

www.syviogiardina.com

On the Verge: Stand & Deliver

Jennifer Mulhare, the brilliant, sartorially talented fashion editor of Pas Un Autre, called last night practically panting with excitement about a new line called Stand & Deliver. Designers of Stand and Deliver, Corey Parks, former basist of the band Nashville Pussy, and Johanna Logan, mix a rock n' roll ethos with an entirely earnest originality that will undoubtably make fashionistas all over the world wet with excitement. Its virtually impossible to find any mention of Stand & Deliver online, save for the behind the scenes video and some photos of the recently shot lookbook.

www.standanddeliverla.com

Balenciaga and Spain

Balenciaga and Spain examines the profound and enduring influence of Spain on the work of haute couture master Cristóbal Balenciaga. The impact of Spanish culture, history, and traditions is explored through the recurring themes in Balenciaga’s oeuvre and organized in the exhibition in six sections: Spanish Art, Regional Dress, the Spanish Court, Religious Life and Ceremony, the Bullfight, and Dance. Hamish Bowles, the European editor at large for Vogue, is guest curator. Balenciaga and Spain runs from March 26, 2011 to July 4, 2011. www.deyoung.famsf.org

UNDERCOVER

Silk and leather bag, metal clasp, metal and silk strap. Collection entitled "Underman" and built around an imaginary theme, The year is 20XX, the world in which the souls of the people have been incapacitated by the forces of evil, is empty. UNDERMAN is born to restore these lost souls. The battle against sorrow wages on.  Spring / Summer collection 2011. www.colette.fr

Cartier: The Power of Style

María Félix wearing her Serpent Clip earrings, 1971

The Cartier Collection reflects the evolution of Cartier's artistic and stylistic creation. Cartier: The Power of Style traces 160 years in the jeweler's glorious history. Three hundred and sixty-two pieces from the Cartier Collection--accessories, masterpieces of jewelry and watchmaking from the end of the nineteenth century to the present day--and four exceptional pieces from the Prince's Palace of Monaco are featured. These exceptional items offer insight into the royal jeweler's treasures and the sources of inspiration that lead to their creation. Commissioned photographs of these rare pieces, exclusive archival images, and biographical stories about their prestigious owners comprise this handsome volume.

Pair of Tiger ear clips, Cartier Paris, special order, 1961

Daisy Fellowes wearing the Tuttie Frutti necklace made of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds, made in 1936 Cigarette case, Cartier Paris, 1931, Platinum, modified baguette-cut diamond, The back of the lid is engraved with twenty signatures such as “Coco” for Coco Chanel, “Misia” for Misia Sert, “Fellowes” for Daisy Fellowes, “Vera” for Vera de Bosset, “Peggy” for Peggy Guggenheim, “Etienne” for Etienne de Beaumont, inside the case “Cécile” for Cécile Sorel, “Elsie” for Elsie de Wolfe, “Johnnie” for Prince Jean-Louis de Faucigny- Lucinge, and other friends unfortunately impossible to identify today. Sold to the Baron de Meyer, photographer Snake necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1968, Platinum, white gold and yellow gold, 2,473 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds weighing 178.21 carats in total, two pear-shaped emeralds (eyes), green, red, and black enamel, Made as a special order for María Félix

Sir Yadavindra Singh, wearing a ceremonial necklace, Cartier, created in 1936

You can find Cartier: The Power of Style here.

At the Rainbow House - Director's Cut

Starring Devendra Banhart and Rebecca Schwartz, the premise of the Oliver Peoples 2011 campaign is an exploration of authentic intimacy and sexuality. The love affair is explored in the one-of-a-kind masterpiece by architect John Lautner: Rainbow House. Produced with acclaimed photographer and aspiring director Lisa Eisner.