William Waterworth's Ein Tir Instinctually Captures Beauty @ Pipeline in London

A woman balances a rudimentary aeroplane-like structure on her head in a field. Zissou, 2023, by William Waterworth.

Zissou, 2023

review by Lara Monro
all images courtesy of the artist

Tatiana Cheneviere opened Pipeline in October 2022. The contemporary art gallery has taken a refreshing approach to presenting emerging and mid-career artists. It introduces each forthcoming exhibiting artist by showcasing a single artwork in a separate, enclosed space to the main gallery area. The art work is specifically chosen by the artist to provide relevant context to their practice and upcoming exhibition. As a result of working for over a decade at one of the most established international blue chip galleries, Cheneviere wanted to create a program that encourages a slower experience to understand the evolving parameters of a single creative practice. Cheneviere explains, “Pipeline’s aim is to reinvigorate the conversation between artist and collector and celebrate the subtleties of storytelling through art.” To date, Pipeline has showcased the work of a diverse selection of artists incluidng Tommy Harrison, Johanna Bath and Emmanuel Awuni

Ein Tir, which translates to Our Land in Welsh is currently on view at Pipeline. The exhibition chronicles three new series and key works by the photographer William Waterworth. Born in Macclesfield, Waterworth studied art history at Manchester University, where the work of Sally Mann captivated and inspired him to pursue his interest in photography. “I found Mann’s photos very moving. I guess they felt especially so back then because the paintings I had been studying as part of the art history course weren’t moving me in the same way. There was something about photography; its immediacy and realness.” 

Waterworth decided to leave Manchester for Paris where he studied photography for a year and through multiple influences began to adopt a photographic style, “after I left Manchester, and as a result of Sally Mann's work, I bought a book on Jeanloup Sieff. It was his deeply tonal black & whites that inspired mine.” Waterworth was awarded the Prix Picto de la Photographie de Mode and has since established a photographic career, which includes working with Alexander McQueen and Erdem. 

A dramatic black and white portrait of a man in chain armor with a rope crown. Hamlet as Knight, 2022, William Waterworth.

Hamlet as Knight, 2022

Dramatic black and white photograph of a nude male figure kneeling in a concrete circle outdoors. Benjamin Evans, 2023, by William Waterworth.

Benjamin Evans, 2023

Central to Waterworth’s practice is a quest for stories and the places they are formed, “I like stories and adventure very much, but what I like most about photography is how it can force you to be more open to all walks of life.” In 2016, Waterworth’s fascination with hearing other people’s stories led to a pilgramige up the East Coast of England from Grimsby to Lindisfarne. 

In Ein Tir, Waterworth has taken over the entire gallery space, the first time a single artist has done so at Pipeline. We observe Waterworth's love for exploring, recreating and capturing stories as well as his love for collaboration. His three new series are shown alongside a selection of collage works and text in the end room where a work presented by the next artist is usually shown. 

Waterworth has used the end space to function in its usual way by drawing back the curtain and contextualizing the other exhibited works. These new images chronicle his pilgrimage to Julia Margaret Cameron’s home on the Isle of Wight, the story of Zissou and the flying machine, and the journey a carpenter makes to the Alps inspired by Thomas Mann’s novel The Magic Mountain (1924). “Everything stems from the book at the front of the gallery. It’s made up of 100 photographs and is inspired by Guy Bourdin’s Untouched work of photographs. Then, there are ten framed pieces varying in size, which leads you to the back room; a wall of collage involving the three specific stories I made in March. We traveled to the Isle of Wight, the Alps, and Dorset. They are narrative-driven and could not have happened without the collaboration of Joel Kerr, who created the accompanying video work and Edie Ashley who designed the costumes.” 

Waterworth's deep interest in capturing inherent beauty stems from an instinct, “one's views on beauty is so subjective, but in my case I guess I respond to instinct and let that lead me. I don't really know what it is, perhaps a sensitivity or awareness. All I know is I can feel a great subject when they walk into a room. There's an unexplainable presence to them.” His ability to capture beauty is further reflected through the curation of his diverse body of work on view in the main room where he has carefully selected images from varying corners of his practice, including The Wrestlers (2021). 

Ein Tir is on view through June 10 at
Pipeline, 35 Eastcastle Street London

Dramatic black and white photograph of a somber woman in white frills, facing the camera, as a man in black robes lifts his arms in the background. May and Tennyson, 2023, by William Waterworth.

May and Tennyson, 2023

The Second Skin By Alexander Morgan & Donovan McClenton

vintage catsuit: stylist’s own, jacket and sunglasses: Alexander McQueen, jewelry: Proenza Schouler

photography by Alexander Morgan
styling by
Donovan McClenton
makeup by
Ryo Kuramoto
hair by
Andrita Renee
nails by
Dan Renée
photography assistance by
Kalelle Conklin & Chase Elliott
casting direction by
MC Barnes
model Anika Elle Hartje

top: Skims
skirt: Fendi
jewelry: Proenza Schouler

leather dress & jewelry: Proenza Schouler



jacket and bra: stylist’s own
pants: Harley Davidson
jewelry: Proenza Schouler

leather jacket: Junya Watanabe
leather skirt: Alaia
jewelry: Proenza Schouler

top: stylist’s own
leather leggings: Rag and Bone
sunglasses: Alexander McQueen
jewelry: Proenza Schouler

jacket and sunglasses: Alexander McQueen

leather dress & jewelry: Proenza Schouler

Color My Life With The Chaos Of Trouble By Jana Gerberding and Mine Uludag

photography by Jana Gerberding
styling by Mine Uludag
casting by Eli Xavier
modeled by Winter, Aime, Bethlehem, Lici, Xen Hur, Dhyhani, and Sophia

Life today offers almost infinite possibilities juxtaposed by maximum confrontation with internal pressures, domestic threats, and global uncertainties. We participate in social movements that are meant to liberate us from oppression and share them on the same social platforms that torment us with an incessant evaluation of our appearance and identity. What exactly do you have to prove today as a young woman? What is socially expected? What does femininity even mean? Is there a new femininity? Does gender play a role at all? Isn‘t it just about individuality and belonging?

Making choices and gaining confidence is for many young people an inner conflict between knowing who they want to be and who they really are.

Our heroines in these portraits embody different possibilities of the feminine. A portrayal that describes the role of the body, identity, the power of self-confidence, and individuality.

This is a portrait of a growing female generation who is not afraid.

LEFT Dyhani is wearing full look Celine.
RIGHT Sophia is wearing panties by Prada, bra by Dior, and stockings by Hermès.

Bethlehem is wearing dress by Arturo Obegero.

LEFT Dyhani is wearing leather coat by Max Mara and sunglasses by Celine.
RIGHT full look Celine

Winter is wearing white blouse by Jil Sander and black skirt by Dries Van Noten.

Aime is wearing skirt and jewelry by Versace and cropped zip top by Alexander McQueen.

LEFT Sophia is wearing bra by Versace, hoodie by Sankuanz, skirt by Louis Vuitton.
RIGHT Xen is wearing top and skirt by Ottolinger.

LEFT Bethlehem is wearing corsage by Alexander McQueen.
RIGHT Bethlehem is wearing dress by Arturo Obegero and boots by Dries Van Noten

LEFT Xen is wearing dress by Missoni.
RIGHT Sophia is wearing bra and shoes by Versace, hoody by Sankuanz, and skirt by Louis Vuitton.

Aime is wearing skirt, boots and balaklava by Max Mara, long sleeve shirt by Lacoste, and leather jacket by Louis Vuitton.

LEFT Xen is wearing dress and heels by Missoni.
RIGHT Lici is wearing long sleeve shirt by Balenciaga, skirt by Loewe, stockings by Hermès, and boots by Dries Van Noten.

Process: Twelve Artists Reinterpret Looks From Alexander McQueen's Pre-Autumn/Winter 2022 Collection

To illustrate the fact that creativity emerges from countless perspectives, Alexander McQueen invites a group of twelve artists to express their individual working practices inspired by the Autumn/Winter 2022 women’s pre-collection. Each artist has chosen a look from the collection and responded to it through their preferred medium, engaging in a creative dialogue with the house. All have been given complete creative freedom resulting in a rich conversation between their work and the selected looks. ‌ The artworks are conceived to be displayed alongside the McQueen pieces they relate to in a temporary installation at 27 Old Bond Street, the house’s London flagship, designed to showcase the individual approaches and the ways in which artworks and looks interact. ‌ The artists are: Ann Cathrin November Høibo Beverly Semmes Bingyi Cristina de Middel Guinevere van Seenus Hope Gangloff Marcia Kure Jackie Nickerson Jennie Jieun Lee Judas Companion Marcela Correa Marcia Michael ‌ “I wanted to engage in a new creative dialogue with the collection this season and see how the artists interpreted the work that we created in the studio. It’s been very interesting to see how creativity has sprung from so many different perspectives, and the outcomes that have been varied and beautiful. We wanted the artists to have total freedom to respond to the looks, creating bold and thought-provoking conversations with their works. I hope that viewers will be as inspired as we have all been by witnessing these creative processes.” – Sarah Burton, Creative Director. Click here to discover more.

Anomalous Beauty by Christian Ferretti & Donovan McClenton

 
A model wearing a colorful draping dress tied at the waist by Dries Van Noten and boots by Dr. Martens. The model is also wearing a face mask similar to the shape of a dog by Mr. S Leather
 

face mask MR. S LEATHER, dress DRIES VAN NOTEN, necklace ALEXANDER MCQUEEN,
bracelet ISABEL MARANT, boots vintage DR. MARTENS

photography by Christian Ferretti
styling by Donovan McClenton
talent by Nell Rebowe (Next Models Agency)

dress MOSCHINO, jewelry VALENTINO

full look and jewelry ISABEL MARANT

full look ISABEL MARANT,
jewelry ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

full look and jewelry ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

 
A model in movement wearing a match short long-sleeve top anf long skirt with a satchel purse across their chest, in the pattern of flowers and moldings by Versace.
 

full look VERSACE, jewelry ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Auroboros Presents The World's First Digital-Only Ready-to-Wear Collection Styled By Sita Abellan@ London Fashion Week

 
 

Auroboros is a fashion house merging science & technology, and digital-only, ready-to-wear, housed within the late Lee Alexander McQueen’s Sarabande Foundation. Styled by Sita Abellan, Auroboros presents a gamified and interactive shopping experience, introducing the world to a fully sustainable, sci-fi, digital collection.

ANEMONES: Alexander McQueen's Fall Winter 21 Womenswear Collection

 
 

photographs by Paolo Roversi

“It feels like now is a time for healing, for breathing new life, for exploring echoes from the past to enrich our future. More than ever, a sense of humanity, of the team working together with a single aim – to make something beautiful, something meaningful – feels both precious and important. We looked at water, for its healing properties, and at anemones. Anemones are the most ephemeral flowers, here made permanent in cloth. The women wearing the anemone dresses almost become like flowers, like their embodiment, their character – but amplified, grounded, radiant and strong.”

Sarah Burton, Creative Director.

Alexander McQueen & Vestiaire Collective Are Pioneering Circular Practices In Luxury Fashion

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN VOSS finale  photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN VOSS finale
photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

Alexander McQueen and Vestiaire Collective have just launched a pioneering collaboration aimed at empowering a move towards sustainability and circular practices. Supported by innovative technology, the collaboration marks the launch of Vestiaire Collective’s new ‘Brand Approved’ programme and reinforces Alexander McQueen’s growing commitment to the durability of luxury fashion.

A select group of clients will be contacted by a sales representative at Alexander McQueen. Any pieces the clients wish to sell will be assessed and if eligible assigned a buy-back price. Once the pieces are received and authenticated by Alexander McQueen, the client will be issued with a credit note with which they will immediately be able to purchase new items from specified Alexander McQueen stores. Once processed by Vestiaire Collective the pieces will carry an external NFC tag giving prospective new buyers access to information confirming the authenticity of the piece. The pieces will be available to purchase on a dedicated ‘Brand Approved’ page on the Vestiaire Collective app and site.

There are currently two pieces available for purchase.

Tuxedo jacket ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Sarah Burton’s first show as creative director SS11  photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

Tuxedo jacket
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Sarah Burton’s first show as creative director SS11
photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

Tartan skirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN  ‘Widows Of Culloden’ AW06  photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

Tartan skirt
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
‘Widows Of Culloden’ AW06
photograph: Chris Moore Catwalking.com

Couture From Home: An Inside Look At The Making Of Alexander McQueen's Pre-SS21 Collection

AMQ Team - NA_PHOTO-2020-05-15-11-56-08.jpg

As all offices, ateliers and factories were closed over lockdown, the Alexander McQueen design team were sent stock fabric to their homes, which was over-printed, over-dyed and renewed.

This collection harks back to the early days of McQueen and a free, make-do-and-mend spirit. Garments – from signature sharply cut masculine-inspired tailoring to prom dresses - were cut by hand at kitchen tables, fabric was dip-dyed in gardens. A mid-twentieth century silhouette – sweetheart necklines, soft shoulders and overblown skirts – is complimented by a hyper-feminine colour palette in shades of pink, from albion to fuchsia rose, and red, punctuated by classic black. Asymmetric hand-draped silks and exploded bows nod to the haute couture tradition finishing an audaciously romantic look.

Look 26
A dress with off-the-shoulder drape and a tiered skirt in washed silk organza dip-dyed albion pink and black.

look 27
A double-layered tuxedo jacket in black wool silk with a wrapped bow peplum in albion pink micro-faille and cigarette trousers in black wool silk with a black satin tuxedo stripe.

 
 

look 28 
An oyster ruffle dress with a high neck and scalloped back in washed organza dip-dyed albion  pink and black.

 
 

look 29 
An asymmetric, floor-length dress with an exploded skirt volume in washed calico silk organza with sketchbook hand embroidery over a skeletal corset in nude silk tulle. The embroidery was inspired by drawings in the notebooks of the Alexander McQueen design studio teams.

Daphne Guinness Performs "Evening In Space" @ The Natural History Museum In London During Frieze Week

Daphne Guinness performs wearing a catsuit by Deborah Milner with LED lighting by Moritz Waldemeyer and Blue Topaz stones by Ostro Minerals during her performance at the Natural History Museum in London. photographs by Moritz Waldemeyer

Chaos Theory: An Interview With The Legendary Nick Waplington On Photography, Painting, Skate Culture and the West Bank

Talking with photographer and painter Nick Waplington is akin to viewing and pondering his work. There is a lot of information to sort through. But if you can find some order in the onslaught of ideas, or the “chaos” as he likes to call it, you will find a perspective wildly and almost enviably unique. The subjects of his conversation are as varied as those within his photographs and his paintings. While Waplington’s work has dealt with environmental concerns, rave culture, the creative processes and inner struggles of the late Alexander McQueen, and (as in his paintings) his own inner monologue, a 40-minute conversation with Waplington darts around discussions about his creative process, international politics, the contemporary art world and the business surrounding it, and even skateboarding. Click here to read more. 

Anton Corbijn - Inwards & Onwards

anthony kiedis west palm beach 2003 c anton corbijn

Anthony Kiedis, West Palm Beach, 2003

Dutch photographer Anton Corbijn has been a pivotal force in the visual landscape of music for the last three decades. Corbijn is the creative director for Depeche Mode, has taken some of the earliest photographs of the band Joy Division, as well as directed numerous music videos, including one for Nirvana's Heart Shaped Box.  Foam, Amsterdam, presents Anton Corbijn's most recent photographic project, in which he photographs of a few of his favourite artists, including Gerhard Richter, Alexander McQueen, Richard Prince, Iggy Pop, Anselm Kiefer, Damien Hirst, Tom Waits, Peter Doig, Bruce Springsteen, Lucian Freud and Karel Appel.

alexander mcqueen londen 2007 c anton corbijn

Alexander McQueen, London, 2007

"Anton Corbijn is interested in how artists struggle with the creative process: the pain and the drama of the act of creation. His monumental black-and-white portraits blend austerity and aesthetics and attract attention because of the deliberate and exacting way they capture the character of the person being portrayed. The work shows Corbijn's concentrated gaze, his feeling for wonder and his ability to empathise with another. "

On view from June 23 to September 1 - www.foam.org

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

This May 6 the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York will present Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - a posthumous retrospective of the late designer's brilliant career. The exhibition, organized by The Costume Institute, will celebrate Alexander McQueen's extraordinary contributions to fashion. From his postgraduate collection of 1992 to his final runway presentation which took place after his death in February 2010, Mr. McQueen challenged and expanded "the understanding of fashion beyond utility to a conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity."

His iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. Approximately one hundred examples will be on view, including signature designs such as the bumster trouser, the kimono jacket, and the Origami frock coat, as well as pieces reflecting the exaggerated silhouettes of the 1860s, 1880s, 1890s, and 1950s that he crafted into contemporary silhouettes transmitting romantic narratives. Technical ingenuity imbued his designs with an innovative sensibility that kept him at fashion's vanguard.

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty: May 4, 2011–July 31, 2011 - www.metmuseum.org