Nana Ghana Directs And Performs In Pelvic Floor At The Hudson Theater Hollywood

Eight women from diverse backgrounds unite in Pelvic Floor to depict Nana Ghana's unique interpretation of the Los Angeles film industry. Set in a Southern California psychiatric ward, each woman unburdens herself by confiding in the rest before their eventual collective suicide. With installation art by Cole James and choreography by Lisa Reider, this tour de force performance leaves the audience with a wealth of ideas to unpack in the aftermath. Click here to buy tickets. photographs by Johnny Saint Ours

A Short Good Bye Letter To Writer and Raconteur Glenn O'Brien

text by Adam Lehrer

Clash’s Mick Jones shared his personal guide to a healthy and happy life: “Don’t be a cunt to anybody.” And always out front and center was Glenn, looking handsome and sophisticated in his slacks and shirts or his Basquiat-customized leather jacket, somehow seeming a notch cooler than the uber-cool legends of art, music and fashion he had on the show. There is no greater example of Glenn’s savvy for turning a cultural moment into a historical movement than the years he spent producing TV Party. It set the stage for where his career would head.

O’Brien refused to abide by artistic anti-establishment norms. While many of his friends would die or go broke trying to live up to some ill-defined notion of ‘never selling out,’ O’Brien managed to find ways to make his talents profitable. In addition to his literary gifts, O’Brien was a respected forward-thinking ad man responsible for genius campaigns for Calvin Klein, Swatch, Nike and others and served as creative director of Barneys for just over a decade. He always maintained his integrity, however, instilling his campaigns with the same subversive wit he applied to his work as an editor, curator and writer. He constantly questioned the nature of advertising and what being a ‘creative director’ actually meant, writing a piece on the subject for Art Forum. He made advertising a creative pursuit of equal importance in his oeuvre. 

On a personal note, I want to mention O’brien’s substantial generosity and genteel nature. Having worked as a photographer, writer and editor in the New York art world for a few years now, I inevitably met the man a couple of times. I remember the first time I crossed paths with him, at an opening for a show at Bill Powers’s Half Gallery, I was extremely intimidated by him. But he had a way of disarming you and making you feel like you had as much right to be a part of this wacky art world as he or anyone else did, and he was always a pleasure to talk to. Shortly before his death, I was actually waiting for his quotes via email in regards to a show he curated at Joe Nahmad Gallery for his friend and painter Jan Franck that I was covering for a short piece in Forbes. The quotes didn’t come, and the piece temporarily got lost in the shuffle when the show came to a close. I thought it was strange that he passed the opportunity to discuss his friend’s work. I should have known that he wasn’t feeling well and regret pressing him for the quotes. 

Glenn O’Brien, who once described himself as an anarchist that believed if people had good manners there would be no need for laws, was a true New York original and icon. He brought together the city’s creative disciplines with its commerce and media in a way that actually defined the way that New York is viewed within the world. This city needs another Glenn O’Brien. We need another TV Party. But I worry that the millennial mindset is a million miles removed from the work ethic and iconic detachment of Glenn O’Brien. In a recent piece for Purple, O’Brien addressed the obvious shifts in New York culture, asking himself if this city can ever be perceived the way it once was as a hub of radical creativity and thought. “New York isn’t what it used to be,” he writes, “but no place else is, either. Our vulgarities are more interesting than yours.” Times change, but cool does not. Glenn O’Brien was a surprising optimist. His unique ‘vulgarity,’ laid-neck sophistication, and utterly refined taste will be sorely missed. 

Bob Dylan Wins Nobel Prize In Literature…. And Now Is The Time For Your Online Tears?!

text by Luke Goebel

 

Let’s shake this desert rattle and see what drops out… WE are outside the Likker Barn, a little red barn with its lone-hay-bale-door open, a tapestry covering a downstairs-storefront window, & the stars are growing in number. There are Sheriffs cars and Denalis and Navigators and men smoking in the cool desert wind, and Prevost coaches—night is coming down over Joshua trees with a giant moon hovering the high desert mountains of the Mohave.

Through the bale door opening of the little barn is warm light on wood—and unseen, though heard, is Paul McCartney playing acoustic with his band, upstairs in the hay loft, singing “Love Me Do” and then three following songs (“Calling Me Back Again,” “I Saw Her Standing There,” and “FourFiveSeconds”) to ten of us sitting on hay bales and dancing in the sand in silence beneath stars—there is silence between songs and waiting, laughing and talking upstairs, indiscernible words but you can hear him when he talks and laughs—this is October 2016—with their songs is silence that can live in an acoustic hushed practice and warm-up before the show out here in Pioneertown, California at Pappy and Harriet’s. He sounds good, benevolent, what’s the way to describe the songs out here in the desert coming from this unsuspected scene? You know the Beatles? 

There are clouds and Joshua trees and starry moon skies above bare, knobby rock faces of mountains, which are part of us who live here year round. A Beatle is singing. 

The show tonight will be for 300 drinking lucky, nearly hip fans in the area from the Desert Trip Festival who have arrived from Canada, or Iowa, or Wichita, or wherever. People are wearing British flag fedoras and dumb things, but it’s cute, too. ISH.

What we are hearing is not the industry of the painted Prevost tour buses outside the Likker Barn, with the police cars and the Navigators and Yukon Denalis all black and chrome waiting outside the barn with those fat dressy men, smoking, in character, ready to whisk Paul and friends to the venue—it's not the lifetime of Paul hearing people screaming his name.

No, inside the little Likker Barn, in the tiny wooden barn, upstairs, with the exposed beams glowing in buttery light, the voice of Paul McCartney and his fellow band members are making music, a nostalgic love music that once changed the world. Can we even feel that anymore? It seems, in the desert, tonight, we actually can reach. It’s as if we stumbled on a manger scene of new nativity in Pioneertown. 

Pioneertown is a town made as a movie-set, originally, in 1954, now inhabited by locals who stay in the old-western-ghost-town storefronts that line the one sand (pedestrians only) street through town—and we are sitting in that sand listening to church inside, something ancient to us. An old Persian American man is with us and keeps screaming Paul's name between songs, followed by Security telling us all we must leave again, to which we laugh and smile at our luck, refusing.

How many people have sat and been serenaded by Paul in a group of ten strangers? I am with a woman I don’t know and she is curious and covered in bright tattoos, we dance, I can smell her hair when it blows in the night air to my face. I’m not a Paul fan, or a Beatles nut; I’ve always liked John even with his disastrous, radical, violent flaws, and George, yes—but I bet you can’t sit outside this barn under the stars in the vast mountainous desert terrain and hear this quiet, intimate session with a Beatle, and not have some part of your inner mapping rearranged.

This Persian man’s calling of PAUL between songs is like the old man is being turned into a young teen again, plaintively calling for Paul to come down—as if Paul might appear to kiss him on the mouth. Paaaaul. The man keeps telling us to all call Paul’s name together with him. He is a drunk, lost man from a lost time when men had the plan, and it was cool to shout out the name of your idol—won’t we join him, he asks, incredulous when we won’t.

There's one last whisper of Beatlemania. And there's something else. A scale of largeness—largeness of celebrity that once unified the world’s imagination as captivated by Paul, John, George, Ringo and of course Bob Dylan, some other rock and roll stars and few cultural icons who reached that size of celebrity for the size of the gift they gave the race of human. They had everyone on their side, nearly, and created so much change—but were also men, white men, mostly—especially those to survive. There was Joni, and Janis, and Jimi Hendrix, and others, Richie Havens, but the ones who were knighted, who grabbed the entire world, who made the police and military fall for them—they were mostly white men.

I can’t help feeling that that world of unified imagination will never likely be so united again. We seem divided more and more online. There is something old, old class, old guard, the old revolutionary tides that these few living icons still hold, and the large body of women and men, and women and men of color they were part of, how can we not thank them for changing how we loved—how we imagined the world could be? How we were led to push out further from normal? To fight for love, for freedom, to take substances and to take paths of experimentation? Dylan’s lyrics, his influence on Beatle’s lyrics, and imagination. 

We have different screens now, different stations tailored to our every prejudices, different axes to grind, different tastes, different self-interested dreams, angers, and triggers—we are negotiating with each other constantly in comment boxes on social media—we negotiate the way we feel, the way we express ourselves, our right to whatever we think we have right to…THINK…why others don’t have the right—and the giant world-changing idols have no place.

It’s about us, now, we think. Our opinions, our feelings, our wounds, our negotiations amidst one another—our way. I’m glad for this as I see movements like Black Lives Matter and the Dakota Pipeline Protests take root and ways in which we are taking the mantle, if not too late, as a world that is about US—our way toward change and protecting what is sacred. I am also concerned when I see how fragmented and polarized and silencing some of the online negotiations can be. The proclivity to being dour, sour, and antagonistic against anything not from the new online-erudite privileged body politic—which again I think is a good and vital thing…but we need to temper our tendency toward the sweeping rejection of all that is old, a lesson we so indubitably learned from the sins of Chancellor Mao, or ISIS even.

How do we do this in a world where the old and white and male remind us so vividly today of Donald Trump?

On the eve of the awarding of the Nobel Prize in Literature to Bob Dylan, and the subsequent outrage across the internal-webs from across the writing world, the writing industry, the writing hobbyists, the writing aspirers—I'm sitting here listening to Paul McCartney sing to so few of us and I’m being reminded of something so-far-from-now that somehow’s here living under the same sky, in the same vast desert, in our home where we live in high Mohave. I am also reminded, because of a piece I read earlier, of the song, “Idiot Wind”—It struck me in light of the idiocy of protesting Dylan as Nobel Prize recipient. I get it, that protest, but I don’t. I get it; he’s a musician, but really? Dylan isn’t a poet? Lyr|ics is a term that comes from lyre, and the ancient poets that lived in Greece long before a novel was ever written in the West were writing poetry to be performed with the lyre. With music. And the poems about politics, about the city, where did they come from, you think? Songs like “The Times They Are A-Changing” and “A Hard Rain…” what do you think they took aim to change? Where do you think they come from? The ballads are rooted in a tradition of political and humanistic and divine poetry from which sprung all literature, philosophy, and humanities, law, et al. DEAL WITH IT.

Dylan, like Paul, John, George, and Ringo, represents a small dying section of celebrity even the world of police, governments, fame, and celebrity all respected for their greatness of appeal and revolutionary participation around what was an often simply expressed love-consciousness-psychedelic-freedom revolution.  And it makes sense that they are protested (online/now)—because IT was a largely white boy club that couldn’t help their gen. make the leap far enough fast enough—but the frontrunners of that artistic time tapped into and spoke for people of all demographics, genders, and spoke for the underdog, the downtrodden, and marginalized. Juan Felipe Herrera is one of that generation’s prized poets. I don't want to huff the gas of nostalgia—and I apologize that I am huffing it, down under that bale window hearing a Beatle. But there is something so pure in the voice, in the songs.

It wasn't a better time. We are where we are now still ripping down the walls of gender and race and sexuality and sexual violence, partly because of the way these unifiers spoke for many, embraced a new consciousness, and experimented against the confines of white patriarchy—less directly, perhaps in some ways, than we do today, but through play and embracing wonder, they struck. I wonder if we need a bit more of that wonder and unity to temper our passions at ripping!

It’s hard to celebrate them or us in light of all that is dire, especially planet health wise, sexism, violence, murder—the very things protest ballads take aim to eradicate. So… we often now choose to acknowledge different heroes, ones who are from the more marginalized body identity politics, because the Dylan’s, the McCartney’s, the famous white sharks of love—they failed us—but that is partly a lie.

As I said, on this eve of Dylan winning his Nobel Prize in Literature, the New Yorker published Rebecca Mead writing about the song “Idiot Wind,” paying tribute to [Dylan] she writes:

I’m glad to say that it’s been a while since I felt a personal identification with [the song]… but the furious castigation and the reeling pain conveyed by that song have spoken for me more times than I care to recall. Critics will argue about Dylan’s place in the canon, or about the rightness of bestowing a prize upon a writer whose celebration doesn’t particularly help the publishing industry. But, for my money, anyone who can summon, as a bitter valediction to a lover, the line “I can’t even touch the books you’ve read,” knows—and captures, and incarnates—the power of literature.

Idiot whining winds across the Internet against the ancient, psychedelic once-pancake-mix-face-coated radical poet singer receiving THE Nobel Prize in Literature after only having what? Changed the music world, gotten Hurricane boxer Ruben Carter out of a life sentence in prison, protesting war and nukes and corruption, racism, fueling civil rights movement, rebirthing idealism, speaking for the displaced and disenfranchised and marginalized voices around the world, freeing love consciousness away from owner mentality, collaborating with Ginsberg, subverting sexism, aiding Beats and Beatles cultural rev., feeding radicals, mystics, women musicians and poets, activists, winning Pulitzer, President’s Freedom Medal, reinventing self more times than Dow Chemical, spreading Harry Smith's anthology-driven rebirth of folk and song writing, embodying every region of USA, becoming an international figure of mystery, cowboy actor, sneering Jew-heart jaw-harp and harmonica troubadour, maintaining self as creative idol of decades, is that it! But what about winning THE prize for lit? Everyone hates it. The fuck? Dylan? Idiot wind sneering…would you give a poet a Grammy?!

I read posts about how this just legitimizes the BRO’s in literature and poetry classes who only know Dylan and fight and argue that he’s a poet while not knowing anything about the greater poetry of world. Bro: new most hated term for a cross-section of typical males—with term bro, males can be tossed into the fray of irrelevance and scorn deserving. It is a way to hate on male chromosome carrying populations and eliminate them as worthy of consideration. So, these educators who launched this attack on the notion of Dylan being valued by students, rather than seeing this as an entry into the conversation, would rather expel such students from the conversation? Rather pigeonhole students as deserving of dismissal and scorn? It seems much easier to use this as an access point, should there be students who know Dylan’s work and want to discuss it, to opening a larger conversation and including the work of great poets who are women, are diverse, etc., but I digress.

Let's admit it...It's been a bad year all around. Planet news is of bad environmental forecast. Dead seas to ride up 10 feet in decades and swallow sea cities, ocean life soon kaput, Great Barrier Reef prognosis of poor health came out today—Drumpf, Clinton, wars endless, Russia, Aleppo, terrorism, world war watch, etc. And people are outraged about Bob Dylan? Someday we may crouch before amplified speakers and listen to women and men such as Dylan sing about what no longer exists—roosters, cicadas, whales, love—objects and living things and feelings we destroyed. We need unity—and while I don’t suppose around Dylan is where we should rally—maybe we should temper the internet outcry of the week on this one?

Today, Dylan wins the Nobel Prize. Librarians, elementary and high school teachers, as well as Cynthia from The Confederate General of Big Sur are committing ritualistic suicide.  

Everyone knows someone else’s more-deserving name to tweet, post, and broadcast that should have won instead (Ngugi wa Thiong’o, Marilynne Robinson, D. DeLillo)—a million times over! People can't BELIEVE THOSE SWEDISH IDIOTS PICKED DYLAN. How populist, how commercial. How gauche!! 

We are trolling, Bob…

Trolls and smart folk everywhere kvetch about Dylan winning the fucking Pulitzer. Nnooooooo! Bob Dylan? What does he know about literature, poetry, and words?

He tells stories in words. He made DESIRE. Made how many thousands of timeless songs about the soul, about humans, woman, man, the oppressed, the unspeakable—that which exists in negative capability—love, moral outrage, spurn, war, criminals, Judaic crying out loneliness, wives, husbands, children, beauty, surreality, landscapes, gods, mysticism, time, space, and perhaps at best: stories that cannot be broken down to elements of story—so what? Why not Don DeLillo? This isn’t the year for Don’s. Sorry, DeLillo.

There are funny complaints. Sardonic arrows bore to the quiver in the heart of the absurdity of this year and folly of human existence. The shame. The disease of us. Throttling hate and vitriol launched at the body politic of the winners—and for good reason--MALE. And why should Dylan even be considered for a Nobel in Lit? The man the pop-fan universe first loved to hate, to boo and heckle, JUDAS—has just earned more haters—in droves. Begin Dylan's 2016 TROLLING thunder review cranking online! It's in full gripe.

How could a dirty filthy white (and in white face!) old Vincent Price-looking musician (yuck) win the glorious, erudite prize that is the pinnacle of all high literature? A music player? Goddamnit! Capital L literature. The decrepit white man (Jew), wins, in literature? He cheated! He used music! I write, ahem, cough, literature, haha, that will surely never win a Nobel, will be lucky to be novels in print in 100 years, if there is life in 100 years, maybe life on Mars???—but the reason I first wanted to write was hearing music by Bob Dylan, while being tortured by my father, while being victim to the stress, anger, hostility, violence of the male world, I first found I could live in the music (my father played) of Bob Dylan, while driving, and Dylan was there with me, somehow, actually inside of me and shepherding me in a way no other musician or writer ever has.

I first unconsciously experienced wanting to write because I was captured by his words, his stories, his objects and animals and events—his outraged yearning. I roamed insane through streets of his music and later through literal streets out of rehabs in my early twenties listening to Dylan on headphones, shivering, alone, crying, sharp-eyed. I imagined myself in his songs. I ran into words and language and writing, scrawling bad poetry, seeking what I glimpsed in his lyrics, in his stories, in the power of voice, in his magic spells. I climbed in strangers’ cars, got in dangerous situations, romanticized pain, drank, got sober, used, and dreamed of someday writing. It was male. There were women too who lived with me—Joni Mitchell and Judy Collins and Phoebe Snow. Predecessors like Nina Simone. But for a male singer, there was something Woolf-ianly hermaphroditic in the mind realms of Mr. Zimmerman’s music.

When my brother left this world I was on a street in Lisbon listening to a Dylan song I didn’t know, somehow, and had mysteriously found that day, listening to it over and over at night before a theater and crying, singing, wildly, bitterly, sobbing and singing on a street corner in another world, feeling my brother leave and not knowing yet, what was happening, why I was feeling so taken over by sorrow, by violent sorrow and madness—to sing out bitterly—having not heard the news, so that when I heard it, that moment, forever haunts me and returns to me in the middle of white nights.

I drank in a tiny apartment at 18 alone in Portland, Oregon back when a studio on NW on 21st street was 200 dollars a month and played Dylan’s music on repeat, drinking, crying, alone but with someone else’s language before I had my own.

I have lived and tripped on dreams my entire life, ones coterminous with a world I first encountered in the seat of my father’s car, a hostage to love and violence, with something outside of this world of all that I knew of what was normal and owned and patrolled—some other world Dylan offered and was a gateway into di Prima, Ginsberg, D.A. Powell, Juan Felipe Herrera, literacy.

Clearly, I am not the only author who shared an early draw to language from exposure to Dylan. Joyce Carol Oates famously dedicated her most known story: “Where Are You Going, Where Have You Been” to Robert Zimmerman’s adopted stage name: Bob Dylan

Salman Rushdie wrote, this morning, regarding the Nobel win: We live in a time of great lyricist-songwriters – Leonard CohenPaul SimonJoni MitchellTom Waits – but Dylan towers over everyone. His words have been an inspiration to me ever since I first heard a Dylan album at school, and I am delighted by his Nobel win. The frontiers of literature keep widening, and it’s exciting that the Nobel prize recognizes that.

For me, I’m glad he beat DeLillo. Praise the lord!

The man in his liver spotted 70s. Won. The. Nobel. And. You. Can't. Complain. That. Away. This isn't democratic. What is anymore? We might think everything is. You don't get a vote for the Nobel Prize. Take to your comment boxes! Tweets! Rage. Sure…

Out here in the land of physical reality, in the Mohave high country, with the smell of suntan lotion and weed smoke, up at Pappy and Harriet's, we wait. For tickets. For Paul. For Dylan to make a rumored appearance. Having a sort of snow day.

This week is the Desert Trip Festival week-between-runs and of course Dylan, McCartney, Neil, Jagger and the gang are out here. Too many white men, true! Dicaprio, Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn, etc. celebrities galore rented 100,000-dollar-a-night suites last weekend and others will rent them this coming weekend at the DT festival.

Early today we were in line for Paul McCartney tickets. I could care less if I got tickets. I was already scribing this story, looking for the connection between Dylan and Paul, aside from the obvious. I was in line with thousands of others hoping for tickets, waiting in the hot autumnal sun. Maybe Dylan would show. Rumors, rumors. Today, the day that Bob Dylan made the Internet furious—though, I detest when people personify the goddamn Internet. Hey, it's not real life on here. It's turning you into thinking that the world is your own giant server comment card. People are complaining bitterly on their social media complaint boxes, writing opinion pieces on why it should have been any real writer. While this is good, to have a soap box to oppose Trump's assault comments or try and raise awareness for the most recent impending doom reports on coming planet death (you'll get three likes for all posts on environment)—to stand in solidarity with and give support to the Dakota Pipeline protests—I will say griping about Bob Dylan winning the Nobel Prize for Literature just seems kind of pointlessly negative and perhaps in poor form. 

Let's take apart the arguments against the win. 

There is the formalist argument: he's music not literature. Why should lyrics count? Why should music count as literature? What's next? It's a literature prize! THE literature prize! I think we hit this one. POETRY birthed literature…it was to music.

The feminist argument (valid) that all in the camp were men this year. The race theorist argument: too white. Especially in white face.

The historicist argument: why now? He hasn't put out anything memorable in how many years?

The body-identity political complaint: why isn't it someone with less of a white penis.

Yes, he hasn’t put out anything earth shattering in years, and yes he’s a white Midwestern Jew, and yes the prizes this year were woefully all to men, and yes that’s bullshit…but should we aim our arrows at Dylan? Did he not help as an agent of cultural change in performing a miracle moving us in the directions we needed to go?

I'm so glad Bob Dylan won the Nobel Prize in Literature. Let's remember, for a glimmer, the ancient tradition of poetry from which all literature grew. It was political, religious, and spiritual—in the religious and later humanist senses. It was how we moved from the ages of gods, to myths, to humans (Vicco). Let's remember what the purpose of poetry was back in the ancient world. Let's take a moment to remember Percy Shelley's Defense of Poetry. Let's ask the following questions: 

How many protest marches were taken to Don DeLillo passages? How many men did Don D get released from prison for being framed by racist pigs and judges? How many couples have had sex to Don DeLillo? How many bad acid trips did Don DeLillo save anyone from? How many Don DeLillo books do we know by heart? Has DeLillo changed the imagination of the world through writing in the way Dylan has? Gotten anyone free from framed life prison? Dylan has inspired, has mystified, and he is a part of a world journey across the ages that has opened up the gates to wonder, to the rebirth of the ancient tradition of poetry that has always inspired and carried the human race forth in the face of tyranny, hatred, smallness, bigotry, fear, coldness, and greed.

Tonight, at the show, which I didn’t get tickets for, we stood outside having escaped the sheriff sweeps, having hung in town in friends’ homes, later coming upon that chance encounter with Paul making music in a little barn in the desert night. Then we listened in our huddled congregations outside Pappy and Harriet’s wooden honky-tonk, while Paul McCartney played a very solid rock and roll concert. They played Day Tripper, Lady Madonna, Hey Jude, I’ve Just Seen A Face, We Gonna Work It Out, I Got a Feeling, My Valentine, and five or six other numbers. Timing was immaculate in the songs. It was a strange feeling to dance under stars with Joshua Trees to Paul’s music and to close my eyes and see the stars overhead, to feel the world of my inner strangeness mixing with the outer collectivity, to be alive and in the closeness of such a major part of this world I have somehow lived in, through all the drugs and booze and sobriety and madness and loss and language…but it wasn’t a thing compared to the time we spent under the Likker Barn listening to a private practice session with Paul and thinking of Dylan and having the magic, for a moment, light up the desert and land down into us. I don’t really give a damn what the Internet thinks. The Internet doesn’t strive, and dream, or maybe it does. And maybe all of us on there should give a small whisper of thanks for what Dylan contributed, in his small way, to the continuance of wonder of the fire which is counter to the culture of violence, greed, and indifference to the marginalized. Maybe the writer from the New York Times who says Dylan doesn’t deserve the Nobel Prize in Literature is right—but he is one of a few rare human beings who have seized the world and their time on it, made writing and words and sound come alive incarnate and given rebirth to wonder, feeding the collective human soul, and carrying the torch of poetry to light the way of democracy—shared power. Dylan has carried that torch, and that time deserves recognition, as we move forward into the tough days and years ahead, with all they will entail, we need to find within us the mystery and the will to pull down from the firmament our songs, our poetry, our literature, to feed a collective world identity, and that won’t be found in the toxic comment card culture that fragments us further into our angry, over-it, fed up feeds of complaint.

The genius of the song “Idiot Wind,” is that in the end he turns the song outward and inward, singing “We are idiots, babe, it’s a wonder we can even feed ourselves.” Yep, let’s keep a bit of that, and remember, too, the magic of collectivity around something that can only be called love.

 


As of the time this piece was written, Dylan still hadn't responded to the Nobel panel. He apparently cares less about his winning than millions of anti-fans. Text by Luke Goebel. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE


Review of John Domini’s MOVIEOLA!

text by Elizabeth Harris

John Domini’s new story collection MOVIEOLA! is a wild ride, a madcap satire of movie-making whose originality is its comic burlesque of voices from a period of the Industry. Writing that makes fun of the movies is of course a comic tradition from S. J. Perelman and P. G Wodehouse through Michael Tolkin and Charles Bukowski—and that’s not even to address movies and television that do the same. Satire of the Dream Factory in multiple forms is probably inevitable, given the numbers of writers who have worked or wanted to work there.

Domini, who has done neither, has previously published two collections of short stories, two novels, a collection of poetry, and a translation of Tullio Pironti’s memoir, Books and Rough Business. The new collection MOVIEOLA! is not his first creation of a pop culture setting. (For that, you have to see his first novel Talking Heads: 77, recently reissued like the rest of his fiction in e-versions from Dzanc Books).  He’s always been a lyrical writer; what’s new from Domini in MOVIEOLA! is its full-on orientation towards language.

What’s new in satire about MOVIEOLA! is its burlesque of jargon from the period of “corporate oppression”— Mike Medavoy’s pronouncement—after the studios had been bought by corporate conglomerates, when seeking formulas for successful films had come to seem like good business. The Industry aside, characters confident in rigid formulas were a staple of comedy—think Moliere’s Tartuffe, Gogol’s Inspector General—long before the movies. Characters like these are memorable for monologues and dialogues in which they skewer themselves: they are set up—or, as in several of Domini’s stories, sent speeding thorough cyber- or interstellar space—and given the lines to talk themselves into absurd silliness.

The voices of MOVIEOLA! rant, crow, hector, and babble about storyboards, arc mojo, and the Reveal; bankable talent, Oscar moments, and title scrabble; shot focus and provocative color saturation and maybe going more FX here, all in the imagined interest of inventing, pitching, producing, directing, acting, or promoting. A project might be gawk’n’gag, splatter-saga, Pixar-Matrix, nano-alchemy, 3-D on a creature feature, post- or even zombie-apocalyptic in pursuit of—one of my favorite sly phrases in MOVIEOLA!—“the bottom line arc,” the elusive pay-off in “elephant bucks.”

The great thing here, for readers like me who love the oral folk arts of slang and jargon, is MOVIEOLA!’s wholesale recreation of them in literary art. 

Many of these stories are also culturally and psychologically acute. A recurrent irony in MOVIEOLA! is the cynical self-confidence of its self-anointed “creatives” that all good stories are variations on the same, while the stories they enact imply otherwise. Sometimes Domini’s characters are defeated by their contempt for worlds beyond their own. In a story about secret government assassins, a screenwriter counting on the necessary triumph of love can’t quite bring it about but seems, like one of his characters, to be imitating an ecstatic image he can only see in video.

The world beyond screenwriters’ control in MOVIEOLA!, often but not always on planet Earth, surpasses them. The movie-monster hope of two writers—Skyping from opposite sides of the Earth, no less—is outdone by an online amateur video of an ordinary octopus. A self-described Industry player, outbound aboard a chartered interstellar space shuttle, recounts to his seatmate over “Botox and rye” how the Flexxies, a species who love drama and can manipulate gravity, repeatedly ruined the shooting of his sports movie with their insistence on the simple peripety of losers-becoming-winners.

And if cliché binds in MOVIEOLA!, power blinds. An edge-seeking carny barker of film-making in search of something for the storyboard at his symposium can only lead it into a tangle of familiar, PC memes. A prospective auteur-director, discovering the literal power to visualize the movie she wants to make, is distracted from seeing its essential details the first time by the spectacle and newsworthiness of her own power. Will she succeed in visualizing the movie on a second try?

Maybe. Though there’s a certain repetition of themes here, Domini’s comic bumblers aren’t all preposterous failures: some are preposterous successes. In my favorite story, the cumbersomely named “Home ‘n’ Homer, Portmanteau,” a martial arts star who must study how to fight monsters is visited by her private, house-pet-sized monster and finds being able to summon it at will the key to her continued success.

Many of these stories were published in periodicals before being collected in MOVIEOLA! and all bear re-reading. Some require it (“is she really an alien or is that a metaphor?”), such is the bizarre cosmos that Domini creates and furnishes with worlds.


Click here to purchase MOVIEOLA!


Peeking From Between My Fingers: Some Disjointed Thoughts On Kanye's 'Famous' Video

text by Lena Dunham

Like many pop culture addicted Americans, I wait with bated breath for what Kanye West will do next. Aside from his Twitter mayhem, he has created some really "next level shit" as the kids would say. I could also happily watch Kim Kardashian West chip the paint off a window ledge for hours and be fascinated. I admire that whole family, love the way they depict women as better in numbers and masters of their own destiny. I'd spend all summer at Kamp Kardashian. But it's possible to hold two competing thoughts in your mind and the Famous video is one of the more disturbing "artistic" efforts in recent memory.

Let's break it down: at the same time Brock Turner is getting off with a light tap for raping an unconscious woman and photographing her breasts for a group chat... As assaults are Periscoped across the web and girls commit suicide after being exposed in ways they never imagined... While Bill Cosby's crimes are still being uncovered and understood as traumas for the women he assaulted but also massive bruises to our national consciousness... Now I have to see the prone, unconscious, waxy bodies of famous women, twisted like they've been drugged and chucked aside at a rager? It gives me such a sickening sense of dis-ease.

I was raised in the art world by a dad who painted aggro scenes of sexuality and war and a mom who, ironically enough, has photographed some butt naked life-sized dolls of her own. I live for the nude rabble rousing of Carolee Schneemann and Hannah Wilke, for Kathy Acker's arty porn, for Paul McCarthy's gnomes with butt plugs and Vito Acconci masturbating under the gallery floor and Carrie Mae Weems shedding a blinding light on the pleasures and terrors of black womanhood. If it's been banned, I'll probably love it. Because I know that art's job is to make us think in ways that aren't always tidy or comfortable. But this feels different.

I'm sure that Bill Cosby doll being in the bed alongside Donald Trump is some kind of statement, that I'm probably being trolled on a super high level. I know that there's a hipper or cooler reaction to have than the one I'm currently having. But guess what? I don't have a hip cool reaction, because seeing a woman I love like Taylor Swift (fuck that one hurt to look at, I couldn't look), a woman I admire like Rihanna or Anna, reduced to a pair of waxy breasts made by some special effects guy in the Valley, it makes me feel sad and unsafe and worried for the teenage girls who watch this and may not understand that grainy roving camera as the stuff of snuff films. I hesitated a lot about saying anything cuz I figured the thinkpieces would come pouring in. But I didn't see this angle being explored as much as I had hoped. It's weird to feel like you're watching alone. I bet I'm not.

Here's the thing, Kanye: you're cool. Make a statement on fame and privacy and the Illuminati or whatever is on your mind! But I can't watch it, don't want to watch it, if it feels informed and inspired by the aspects of our culture that make women feel unsafe even in their own beds, in their own bodies.

Y'all, I'm so sick of showing up to the party angry. But at least I brought cake.


Originally published as a public comment on Lena Dunham's Facebook page. Photograph by Terry Richardson. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE


Hate-rosexuality

text by Morrrisey

 

Although the gunman who massacred 49 people at an Orlando gay club is said to have been 'repulsed' by homosexuality, he nonetheless left behind a slew of self-adoring 'selfies'; a handsome man gazing enchantedly at his own face. It is therefore acceptable for him to lovingly admire his own maleness, but it is not OK for other men to like other men. Does Islamic scripture say it is fitting for a man to sit alone taking adoring photographs of himself? I doubt it.


Meanwhile, Donald Thump, probably America's next President, reacts to the Orlando massacre by explaining how, if the people within the club were themselves armed with guns, then there would have been fewer casualties. This, of course, is his way of avoiding any words of support to the Orlando gay community (it is their own fault for going into a nightclub without hand grenades). Donald Thump would therefore probably claim that the massacred children of Sandy Hook would still be alive today if only they'd had the common sense to carry sawn-off shotguns to school. The Thump response to Orlando is therefore anti-gay and pro-gun possession. Ann Coulter will be waving her baseball cap and cheering. It's all going so well for America!


Unfortunately, CNN obliged the gunman once again with a flashing flood of publicity - which is all he ever wanted, and which will encourage the next shooter to prepare for international fame. Why show the gunman's face? Nobody needs to see it.


The larger disaster is the two leading faces in the presidential race, as the world prepares to shake its head in disbelief when the new president is named. Clinton is the face and voice of pooled money (and will therefore repay the established elite with whatever they want if she is elected), and Donald Thump is George Wallace - hating just about anyone who doesn't happen to be Donald Thump. Surely this is not 2016 America?


Thump's only achievement so far is in making Sarah Palin seem intelligent, which, admittedly, is so difficult as to be a colossal strike in his favor.


The true victory of the presidential race has been the independent success of Bernie Sanders, whose approach has been so sane and intelligent and measured that he has been therefore all but entirely ignored by the U.S. media, who cannot understand anyone who is not blood-thirsty. This is because Bernie Sanders is human, and one who unusually did not gain his position because of several billion invested dollars. His many primary successes in the presidential race have been headlined as LOSS FOR CLINTON, whereas a Clinton win has not ever been headlined as LOSS FOR SANDERS. Bernie Sanders has been pushed out by the media because the idea of a self-made man who does not crave international war is completely alien to such as Fox News. The idea of a man who is popular because he calls for world peace and for rescue of the environment cannot provide outraged headlines for CNN, who have devoted their online news page to Donald Thump long before Thump was even a logical contender. Thump doing absolutely nothing has been more newsworthy to CNN than Sanders' state-to-state victories.


Ballot papers for 2016 should include a NO CONFIDENCE IN EITHER NOMINEE box, and it is this box that would collect the most votes.


Clinton and Thump may be popular with the party faithful - but the party faithful aren't that large, and are not America, therefore a sad day looms in November - a day that only Bernie Sanders could have saved - had he been allowed his rightful share of media support. But, clearly, the presidential election really is none of your business. Did you ever seriously think it was?
 


text by Morrisey, originally published in True To You (A Morrissey Zine), June 2016. 


[BOOK REVIEW] Susan Grace Reviews Harold Jaffe's New Book, Death Café

text by Susan Grace

 

Harold Jaffe, progressive, social activist, and author of 24 innovative books, including Othello Blues, Revolutionary Brain, Anti-Twitter, and Induced Coma, has planted another mine in the minds of readers worldwide with his latest work, Death Café

The title alone, Death Café, is compelling, and perhaps, in a sense, satiric.  For the unfamiliar, a death café is an actual thing, an experience, but Jaffe’s version goes far beyond to become in effect the sine qua non for exploring the 21st century human condition. 

The online-defined death café experience, better known in continental Europe, has, over the last decade, been introduced into other countries, including the US.  But be aware that Jaffe’s concept of a death café is not a small eclectic group gathered together over tea and cakes in someone’s living room or in a conveniently-located coffeehouse to discuss the taboo of all taboos—death—and leave an hour later feeling purged. 

For Jaffe, the venue is the dying planet and the participants are the suicided, the martyred, the murdered, the murderers, the victims and perpetrators, those who love them, the known and unknown, past and present.  From Africa to China, India to Europe, the US to the Middle East, Jaffe’s Death Café opens wound after festering wound, challenging a technopiated culture that seems to have erupted like a pustule on the backside of a capitalistic globalized corporatocracy to let go of its scripted thoughts and do something better:  Feel.  Not purged like a lowercased death café, but pent.  How else does a revolution, if one is still possible, begin? 

In his opening text “Orfeo,” an allusion to the mythic Orpheus, Jaffe weaves a first-person narrative in which the events take place underground, starting in the basement of a hospital complex filled with “discarded old people” and continuing to an underground train station men’s room where 20 men stand at urinals masturbating “while peering at the masturbating male to his left.”  The multiple layers in Jaffe’s work leave considerable space for interpretive debate, but the symbolism is fairly clear between Orfeo’s underground and Orpheus’s underworld.  After he finally manages to pee, Orfeo boards his train heading north.  Symbolically, there is a sense that each story thereafter might function as an underground stop as he makes his way to the surface.

Along the stops, a particularly impactful passage, and not without political currency, happens near the end of “Auschwitz Crumbling,” a narrative about the difficulties faced by those charged with preserving not only the eroding Nazi death camp but doing so in the face of aging/dying witnesses, fading memories, and Holocaust deniers. The current director sums up the situation:  “If we do not change that, this exhibition will say always less to the next generation until it will say nothing at all.” The narrator closes the piece by pointing out that even as Holocaust deniers are spreading rapidly around the world, “newer, sanitized genocides are occurring on every continent.”  This insight seems to conjure an image of past genocided victims dropping off one end of a conveyor belt as a steady influx of new genocided victims enters on the other.  The reader is left to ruminate on what difference it might make if there were space in our memories for all.

Nineteen provocative fictions and docufictions comprise Death Café.  Each narrative is independent of the other yet connected thematically by what perhaps can be described as “daring not to avert one’s eyes from the unjustified pain and sorrow that populate the globe.”  Jaffe’s work examines, through different eyes, eyes of the other—the oppressed, the marginalized, the mad, the inevitable—until the examining seamlessly gives way to inhabiting.  This ideality is underscored in “Inhabit,” a multiple-discourse docufiction that explores the deeper aspects of suffering as the narrator seeks to inhabit crucial moments during the lives and deaths of individuals who have made artistic, loving, even ugly impacts on the world.  In one section, the narrator inhabits the nearly failed suicide of the “Maladroit when not masterful” Vincent Van Gogh and recalls Artaud’s words, “Suicided by society.”  He dwells in the deathbed moments of the Aldous Huxley and later Blake with his beloved Catherine.  When interrogated as to whether he wishes to inhabit Theo Van Gogh—the great-great grandson of Vincent’s brother—filmmaker, racist xenophobe, who is murdered and martyred, the narrator replies simply, “No.”  Later he concedes that while Vincent would not wish for a descendant like Theo, he would understand.  “The world moves forward and back. Proceeds by oppositions.”  It is the opening discourse, that of a young virgin who leaves her village in Yugoslavia to join the order of Loreto—nuns who tend to the poor and dying in India—where the lyricism of the “unsituated dialogue” and the narrator’s self-interrogation set the tone for this text.

I’d like, respectfully, to gain entrance to the range of feelings she was experiencing when she made her arduous journey from Skoplje to Dublin.

When she was admitted to the order of Loreto.

When she slept that first night among the sisters of Loreto.

You want to gain entrance to the range of feelings she experienced?

Yes.

And do what with it?

Inhabit it.

If this last line is not a roadmap, perhaps it should be.  What better way to approach the dimensions of this book; what better way to approach human interaction in general?  Certainly it affords one the potential for feeling, for compassion—integral components for navigating below the surface of a dying world. 

The literary genre, docufiction, has been created and deftly utilized by Jaffe in Death Café and other works.  It includes the art of taking historical, news, or other media-based accounts and teasing out the hidden assumptions, essentially by deconstructing, re-imagining, and often, though not always, satirizing, to obtain an alternative point of view that exposes a higher level of socio-cultural awareness. 

In the docufiction “Stockholm Syndrome,” Jaffe draws on the reported account of Wolfgang Priklopil who kidnapped a 10-year-old girl in Austria, held her captive for eight years, and eventually committed suicide when at age 18 she escaped.  Afterward, the girl says of her captor that he “was a part of her life and ‘in a certain way’ she mourned his suicide.”  Further, we learn that she wept inconsolably when she was informed he had killed himself.  As the narrator interrogates the story, the girl expresses that she does not feel that Priklopil robbed her of her childhood, “I don’t have the feeling I missed something important. As far as I can see, children are robbed of their childhood one way or another.” Later, alone, she pays her respects at the morgue before his burial and lights a candle for him. 

With just a subtle massaging of emphasis, Jaffe manages to expose the hidden assumption in the original reporting—the girl is better off back with her society.  But with her conflicted thoughts carefully articulated in Jaffe’s treated text, along with the egocentricity of the so-called authorities, the barrage of media attention, her dysfunctional family and the pointed reminders of the historical complexity of her society, the reader cannot help but wonder to what degree that assumption is valid.

The crystallizing moment comes in the end section, subtitled “The Movie.”  The narrative jumps ahead five years; the girl is 23.  She has finally “decided to reveal the sordid truth because the movie producers had already seized the file, which was not to be released until 20 years after her death.”  It is no surprise that the movie capitalizes on repeated rape scenes and depictions of brutality.  What does give pause is her attending the premier in a low-cut, Lagerfeld evening dress displaying “what appeared to be fresh implants,” posing for photos, but declining interviews.  By carving out the core and dispensing with the noise, Jaffe raises the question, how shall we define subjugation?  

With rapier-sharp wit, Jaffe misses no opportunity to strip the fairytale out of the plight of the aging, endangered species, artists, war, consumerism, capitalism, corporatism and politics.  In one particularly jarring narrative, “Butcher Love,” Jaffe juxtaposes a “maso” scene from a Disney-affiliate-owned SM club named after Jean Genet and the torture and pain endured by stock animals, notably in kosher slaughterhouses.  The end?  A smooth shift into parody with corporations taking a sharp uppercut—nobody is intended to leave the text unscathed, least of all the reader.

The signal question is, how does a writer weave the theme of pain in its myriad facets through 19 such narratives and still manage to avoid any hint of repetition and, in fact, achieve a uniqueness that surpasses expectation.  One thing is certain: Jaffe has an uncanny ability to shape his ideas through the use of multiple discourse, unsituated dialogue, and argumentative and dreamlike interrogation, to prune them with tonality and rhythm, to sharpen them with satire and juxtaposition.  Technique aside, Jaffe is exquisitely attuned to each character in his narratives; in other words, he inhabits them.  The synthesis here is an originative mode of storytelling that facilitates a visceral understanding of the complexities of, and ultimately the dark humor that emerges from, an expiring world utterly incapable of comprehending its own death.  

How will you die?

That is the question that underpins everything.  It is one that once bore the obligation of being answered or, at the very least, contemplated.  Today, for the all-that-glitters consciousness of a consumerist, techno-fed populace the question is almost too painful to articulate.  As the narratives unfold in Death Café, it becomes obvious that the pain resides in the not answering.  How will you die? is the other half of How will you live? For any society unwilling to answer these questions, Death Café is an illuminating depiction of the human stress response when an uncaring power structure answers it for them. 

From “Inhabit”:

You, then.

Will you die like Blake singing songs to Catherine?

Like Vincent with his head turned to the wall?

Like Theo, dissident film-maker, hate-monger, violently set upon, murdered, martyred?

Like Huxley, his thin legs in tweeds, sideways mover, ingesting sight?

Like the teenage virgin from Yugoslavia en route to Dublin then India on a prayer?

In the final, titular narrative, “Death Café,” Jaffe parodies a San Diego living room death café event.  If the original symbolic supposition holds, that is, Orfeo’s ascent through the underworld, this might be considered his arrival at the surface.  Interspersed with attendee dialogue that volleys from the absurd to the very absurd are sobering scientific commentaries on the plight of the planet in a sort of post-modern Greek chorus fashion.  The final commentary: “Scientists attribute the sixth mass extinction to man and his institutions.”  This, just before the attendees stroke their smart phones and “savage the key lime pie.” 


You can purchase Death Café hereFollow Autre Magazine on Instagram @autremagazine. 


Imaginary Pen Pals: Alex Kazemi On Why He Started The Advisor, A Hub of Handwritten Letters by Male Icons

text by Alex Kazemi

Most of my life I felt ashamed by the creative impulses I had. And yet something forced me to follow them. I didn't think writing made me cool or different, and I never took pride in it. I felt like a freak. I felt embarrassed. I was horrified by anyone who identified as an “artist” or “creative”. I spent hours doing drugs to high away but I still came back down hearing the same old song. Every time I tried to slash the beast, he just grew another head.  Every night before bed, I used to pray someone would cut off my fingers so I could never write again. I wanted to trap this demon in a mason jar, drop him in the ocean and watch him sink to the bottom, but the more I resisted, the more angels would come by to drop presents into my brain tied off with a feeling that is like seeing a new color for the first time every time my fingers hit skin, paper, or keyboard. I wrote all the time. Everywhere.

One of the scariest moments of my life was the morning I woke up and walked to my bathroom mirror only to see writing all over my legs and arms.  I thought, “If this is the life of a writer - I do not want this. I do not want life at all.” I never tried suicide, but I talked about it obsessively on chatrooms and message boards from ages 13 to 20. Mostly with other dudes who were dealing with their own neurosis but as I spoke to more and more depressed people, I learned that we all had one thing in common: Fear.  Fear of accepting our own individual truths. There were days I was so exhausted by my own brain to the point I wouldn’t talk at all. Total Mute. If everything I look at is causing a new idea, if every conversation I hear is creating dialogue, if everything I see needs to be preserved, what is the point? Was I put on this world to be a servant to detail and novelty? “How am I supposed to relax? How does one get to the other side of the glass? I need to be on the other side of the glass.” I couldn’t talk about what was going on with me without sounding like a delusional grandiose OCD teen that just discovered Kurt Cobain - so I felt isolated.   Who was there to reach out to?  Other artists, my imaginary pen pals.  I spent hours and hours reading and watching interviews of iconic male artists discussing their processes. Even if they didn't know it, these people saved my life, they let me know I wasn’t crazy, they let me know that they deal with the exact same bullshit I do but all in a different and individual way. They hate it, they love it, they want it to end, they want it to start again. 

I wanted to start The Advisor, a monthly digital gallery of handwritten letters dedicated to young men out there, so they can have a place to see creative men side by side and read their uplifting letters of inspiration that let you know that every artist has their own path, and no path is the right or wrong path. There is no set way to doing things, and you shouldn’t be ashamed for being the only one who can understand your language. 


Officially launching today, The Advisor is a new digital platform that features handwritten open letters penned by contemporary male icons to young men, curated by Alex Kazemi. Published once a week, the site debuts with letters from Richard Kern and Bruce LaBruce. Later contributions will original writings by a bevy of pioneering heroes such as Marcel Castenmiller (04.08), Rad Hourani (04.15), Justin Tranter (04.22), and NABIL (04.29). Visit The Advisor here


What To See and Do, and Where To Stay, In Dubai During Art Dubai 2016

When most people think Dubai, they think money, flash, grandeur and excess. In fact, there is a theory that the word Dubai literally means “money” – from an old Arabic proverb, "Daba Dubai,” which translates to, “They came with a lot of money.” So it makes perfect sense that Dubai has become a major force in the art world with galleries, such as our friends at Carbon 12, that are popping up in the industrial region of Dubai known as Al Quoz. This is a mirroring of the art scene that is currently growing in the industrial regions of Los Angeles, London, New York and even Miami. In Dubai, much of this growth is thanks to Alserkal Avenue, an arts hub that fosters and provides architect designed warehouses to galleries and creative institutions. And this week marks the start of Art Week in Dubai, with the central focus being on the Art Dubai, the foremost art fair in the region that is currently in its tenth year. We asked Nadine Knotzer and Kourosh Nouri of Carbon 12 to provide a list of things to do and see, and where to stay, in Dubai during Art Week. 

1. Place To Stay: The Mina A'Salam Boutique Hotel 

Located next to the Arabian Gulf, this gorgeous boutique hotel has a more intimate vibe than many of the other hotels in the Dubai region. Click here to book a room. 

2. Get Energized for the Fairs and Galleries at Urban Yoga 

Art Week can be stressful, so we recommend Urban Yoga, a loft style yoga studio overlooking Dubai, to get energized and inspired. Click here to for classes and schedule. 

3. Go See Ghazel’s Show Mea Culpa @ Carbon 12 Gallery

Ghazel is back at Dubai’s Carbon 12 from March 14th to May 1st, 2016, and so is her tongue-in-cheek, vehemently insightful work commenting on the state of the world and pushing the boundaries of art. The solo exhibition, Mea Culpa, revolves around the map motif used in diverse, sometimes derisive, ways. Click here to for more info. 

4. Take A Stroll Through the Gallery District @ Alserkal Avenue

After visiting Carbon 12, take a stroll through Aserkal Avenue to visit many of the other galleries and project spaces. Must see: Zahra Al-Ghamdi's 'An Inanimate Village' installation, pictured above. Learn more here

5. Cocktails On The Beach at Jetty Lounge at One & Only Royal Mirage

Sit down for a cocktail by the beach at the Jetty Bar at the One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai. You can make reservations here

7. Lunch @ The Concept Store and Healthy Cafe Comptoir 102 For Organic Bites

If it's lunch you are after, visit Comptoir 102, a healthy cafe and concept store that has organic bites and brilliant design selections. 

8. Visit The Main Art Dubai Fair 

Art Dubai is the leading international art fair in the Middle East, Africa and South Asia. The tenth edition of the fair takes place March 16-19, 2016 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Visit Carbon 12's booth, B1, where they will be exhibiting 6 artists from their roster, including a new video by Anahita Razmi. Click here to learn more about Art Dubai. 

9. Visit The Elyx Bar During Art Dubai

Inspired by Elyx House New York, Elyx Bar has now come to Art Dubai 2016. From March 15th to 17th, Fort Island will play host to the pure raw aesthetic known as Elyx. Art, luxury & flavor have a new temporary address. Experience quality cocktails, great tunes and immerse yourself in the world of raw luxe that is Elyx. Open from March 15th - March 17th, 9:30PM onwards. 

10. Locals Favorite: Eat Dinner At Flooka, A Lebanese Fish Restaurant

Make reservations at Flooka, a Lebanese fish restaurant that is a local's favorite. Click here for reservations. 

A Feminist Argument For Wet T-Shirt Contests

text by Jill Di Donato

 

For a moment, as the water hits her skin, she becomes sex.

She shimmies. She sways.

She’s fantasy.

Like bamboo, strong yet flexible.

And then the moment is passed.

Exit stage left.

          A blank canvas—an item to be styled or worn alone, the white tee is lazy or elegant, sexy or grungy. When wet, however, the white tee becomes something else entirely.

          It’s a complicated cultural symbol. Like most garments, its significance is defined largely by its wearer and the style in which it’s worn. When you factor in ideas about class and the friction of hedonist concupiscence rubbing against American Puritan ethos, the white t-shirt contest opens a dialog of sociological intrigue.

           But can the wet t-shirt contest be feminist?

           At one time, I used to think that as an object, a woman was unable to gaze astutely at the world herself. But people slip in and out of dominance and submission all the time. What appeals to me about the wet t-shirt contest is the ease with which a woman can shift states of modesty at will. That’s a powerful feat, especially because historically, women have struggled to move freely within trappings of modesty. Or rather, expectations of feminine modesty have been historically limiting to women.

          For detractors who point out that wet t-shirt contests are judged and winners pronounced, isn’t that the American way? But before the first playhouses opened in the Colonies, across the pond, Shakespeare’s Jacques says to Duke Senior, “All the world’s a stage/And all the men and women merely players. ” This pronouncement couldn’t be more relevant today, when personal exhibitionism is de rigeur.

         Human obsession with spectacle is not new; what’s new lies in the aggregation of images—the sheer multitude of them, the myriad ways they can be manipulated, and the rapid speed with which all this can happen. The diversity in the types of images that people put out into the world is a choice opportunity, especially for marginalized groups to reclaim power by getting on stage and showing their breasts: big breasts, small breasts, augmented breasts, natural breasts, brown breasts, large-nippled-breasts, pierced breasts, lactating breasts, post-sex-reassignment op breasts.

          Welcome to the democratization of tits.

          But even though potential to find a sundry of images exists, are people taking the time to seek them out? Or do they go for the easy definitions of what’s sexy/sophisticated/crass/erotic/tasteful/raunchy?

           The infinite aggregation of images on platforms like Instagram, Pinterest, Tumblr—media forums that allow viewers to post, rather than simply consume images, say looming from Hollywood billboards or from inside fashion glossies. However, has this new access actually changed social attitudes about female sexuality?

           New media platforms do take some power away from the male gaze. A shift is happening, and even if change doesn’t occur immediately, the camera is now in the hands of more people: women, especially, who can turn the camera onto themselves. Whether millennial media habits can chip away at some of the ingrained images of hegemonic sex appeal remains to be seen, but the way people consume media these days helps make an argument for why sartorial events like the wet t-shirt contest can indeed be feminist.

            The wet t-shirt contest predates sexy selfies and Snapchat videos: it’s a living photograph, a tableaux vivant.

           But what about its history?

           The first iconic image of a wet t-shirt is credited to Jacqueline Bisset. Swimming underwater, the English actress surfaces wearing a white tee and bikini bottoms in the 1977 pulp film, The Deep. Goggle-faced and sun-kissed, the underwater swimming scene opens the film. As she comes up for air, Bisset appears elegant, her near-nudity referencing Aphrodite.

          Two years later, Frank Zappa’s 1979 track “Fembot In A Wet T Shirt” gives props to the gals on stage. “Well the girls are excited/Because in a minute/They’re gonna get wet/‘N’ the boys are delighted/Because all the titties/Will get ’em upset.” These lyrics underscore an exciting view of female sexuality and its power over male spectators—a reclaiming, if you will, of the male gaze.

          The 1980s saw the rise of wet t-shirt contests, where models like Stacey Owen and Debbie Quorell used their coronations at these types of international events to lead to successful careers in porn. And so, the evolution to Girls Gone Wild, who, today, are likely to be what people think of when they think of a woman in a wet t-shirt contest.

          Because the women in these videos seem so interchangeable to me, I picture “her” face wearing a somewhat quizzical look, as the director of photography is more interested in catching the gaze of cheering frat bros in the background, to whom the franchise is marketing the show. The woman in the wet tee is secondary, more of an object than actor, like Bisset in The Deep.

           Or is that distinction indicative of my tastes—my desires…my choice: Bisset (urbane—old Hollywood) over a Girls Gone Wild (tawdry—Hollywood Boulevard). What can I say: I’m a snob.

           While I don’t love the idea of women competing with one another in a wet t-shirt contest, people engage in contests in everyday life all the time. I choose favorites, handpick who and what I want in all kinds of situations, casual or intimate, and doing so is a freedom I wouldn’t want to give up. 

A Young Feminist’s Perspective on Twenty Years of American Apparel Ads

Text by KEELY SHINNERS

American Apparel advertisements have been branded with that ambiguous scarlet letter “controversial” since the early 2000s. Are they edgy or exploitative? Are they misogynist or empowering? How have the ads evolved since Dov Charney got fired in 2014? Is “evolved” even the right word?

Former American Apparel CEO Dov Charney has a history of power abuse—one (actually, 5) too many sexual harassment lawsuits, degrading comments to employees, rumors of Charney holding an employee against her will as a “sex slave.” In the feminist circle, Dov Charney is spoken of as our “resident skeezy uncle.” Namely, calling hypersexualized images of young (often white) girls “edgy” to further Charney’s capitalist agenda is a feminist’s worst nightmare. Since Charney was fired from the company in 2014, the ads are supposedly “tamer.” Meaning, instead of skinny young girls in tiny underwear, we get skinny young girls in denim jackets and knit sweaters.

Charney’s mid-2000s ads—many of them shot by Charney himself—were unapologetically exploitative. Early photographs of mostly-naked models in bed are amateur porn-esque. They are perhaps intentionally slimy, like a nude circulated around a clique of teenage boys. The male gaze does not hide itself here: you get fragmented, dehumanized close-ups of tits, ass, and pussy. You get grainy, intimate shots, presenting the model in compromised, hypersexualized spaces. You get Dov Charney posing proudly in bed with an anonymous, barely-clothed young girl. All in the name of “clothing you love to wear.”

Have the post-Charney ads evolved to being less exploitative? Perhaps “evolved” isn’t the right word. AA’s got a brand new CEO, but the male gaze is still all over their images. Though more clothed, we still see very young, thin, predominantly white women posed to highlight cleavage and curves. Has AA’s exploitative practices withdrawn since Charney, or have they merely changed façades? Are the ads evolving with the feminist movement, or is the face of capitalist patriarchy simply putting on a new, more subdued mask? Has the cat caller on the sidewalk retreated to the bushes, so to speak? American Apparel ads since 2014 seem to be less of an evolution of political consciousness and more of a metamorphosis of the patriarchy’s sexual eye. Does one type of perversity rank over another?

Perhaps a more interesting question: if American Apparel feels the need to transform their image, are they sensing the fragility of sexually exploitative images in our current cultural climate? If (and perhaps when) Dov Charney returns to AA, will his choice aesthetic come too late, now that the 21st century is sweet sixteen and won’t take daddy’s shit anymore?

What exactly is a young radical feminist supposed to do with American Apparel ads? We’re not going to put women in cardboard boxes and tell them to hide their tits. There is a slippery line between desexualization and censorship, and to act conservatively in the exposure of the female form isn’t going to aid anyone’s liberation. On that same vein, casting American Apparel off to the side - labeling it chauvinistic and irredeemable - doesn’t seem like a productive conversation either. Perhaps American Apparel ads can be a generative tool to look at how we imagine women, sexuality, capital, and mass marketing in the 21st century. The ads offer room for questions—does it matter who is behind the camera, and why? Is the unapologetic display of a woman’s body empowering, or does it become something else when selling product gets involved? Perhaps the ads – with all their flaws attached – will allow us to refine our positions and perceptions, making us better, more nuanced feminists. So, without further adieu, for better or for worse, here are 20 American Apparel ads from the past twenty years:  

1995: 'Fresh Funk For Girls' - The Blossoming

1996: 'Who Is American Apparel' – A More Innocent Time

1997: 'January Classic' - The Girl Next Door Fantasy

1999: 'Dov's Panties' - The Creep Creeps

2000: 'T-shirt Cool" - Dov Makes An Appearance

2001: "Classic Girl" The First Black Model

2002: "Fuck The Brands That Are Fucking The People" Oh, The Irony

2003: "Carefree, Comfortable, Cotton" Take It All Off or Jerk Me Off Over The Phone

2004: "Aprés ski." Sex After An Afternoon on the Slopes

2005: 'Meet Lauren Phoenix' 160 pounds of magic. Actress. Director. Look Her Up On Google

2006: 'Hiking!' Down To Fuck On The Trail

2007: "Léa, a young comedienne...." Blue Is The Warmest Color

2008: Retail Locations "Licking Dov's Crotch" 

2009: "Flex Fleece" Advert Banned In The UK For Suggesting Underage Sexuality

2010: "Human Pyramid" Literally, Women Stacked on Top of Women

2011: "Happy Winter" American Apparel Enters A New Age

2012: 'Made In the USA' American Apparel Introduces A Model In Her 60s

2013: "Happy Holidays" Meet Samantha, American Apparel Saves Face

2014: "Operated By Dov Charney" In June of This Year, Dov is Sacked For Sexual Harassment and Fiscal Irregularities

2015: "Classic Girl" The School Girl's Tumescent Nipples, The Coquettish Smile, The Fantasy Continues

Recent news is that a judge has blocked Dov Charney's most recent attempts to gain control of the company he built with his own two hands a little over twenty years ago. Paula Schneider, a woman no less, has held on to the reins of the company and is planning an overhaul. Charney is currently brainstorming a way to start a new clothing company, which should be interesting to watch unfold. 

The 5 Best Quotes of 2015

Wow, what a year. In 2015, we were fortunate to sit down with some of the world's most important artists, musicians, photographers, trouble-makers, truth-seekers, and cultural warriors. Here are choice quotes from some of our best interviews of the year, featuring Alan Vega, Genesis Breyer P'Orridge, Roger Ballen, Albert Hammond Jr., and Jack Walls.

 

1. Alan Vega, Ghost Rider Motorcycle Hero and founding member of electronic music duo SUICIDE

"SUICIDE sort of summed up the world we lived in: Nixon, the bombings, and the war, and what the hell!  People thought we were describing our own suicide, but it was the only appropriate name."

 

2. Genesis Breyer P'Orridge, English singer-songwriter, performance artist, poet, occultist, and healer of civilization

"[Counter-culture is] the think tank—always has been, always will be. In any culture, at any point in the history of our species, there are those who feel dissatisfied with the power structures, the dynamics of who has control over what resources, and who decides what the moral taboos are and are not."

 

3. Roger Ballen, photographer & filmmaker of unimaginable worlds

"A lot of people in this business grew up in the newer generation and they tend to try to find new angles and edges that are basically technological, that are focused on just the idea rather than the substance of the idea.

The substance of the idea, to me, is crucial to good art. You don’t hear about that too much. You don’t hear about metaphor, depth, indescribably parts of the psyche. It’s gimmick of the gimmick."

 

4. Albert Hammond Jr., guitarist for the Strokes

"As he [Carl Sagan] pulls away from the planet, you see how tiny and meaningless everything is. We create meaning. To me, that allows for change, allows for the human element, for mistake. It lets us learn...

People are fighting for a fraction of a dot to become momentary masters. Nothing is permanent. Even when it feels so permanent, it isn’t."

 

5. Jack Walls, writer, artist, cultural survivalist, former partner of Robert Mapplethorpe, mentor to Dash Snow, Ryan McGinley, & Dan Colen

"GRIEF AND ROMANTICISM ARE THE SAME THING. IF YOU CAN ROMANTICIZE GRIEF - I DON’T WANT TO SAY YOU HIT THE JACKPOT - BUT YOU REALLY HAVE SOMETHING. WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO, WALLOW IN IT?"


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Television As Art: The Best TV of 2015

I am a begrudging uber fan of Bret Easton Ellis. I have read all of his books. I know all of his essays. I Love his podcast. Nine times out of 10, his contrarian opinions are dead ringers for my own. I too I find this PC #loveme culture to be depressing and dangerous (how much progress can we expect to have or how much can we learn if we are all so afraid of saying anything offensive that we stay completely silent on everything?). But Ellis’s opinion that TV will always pale in comparison to cinema, merely due to aesthetics, I simply cannot get behind. Yes, TV is often budgeted smaller than film. But any film not starring Iron Man these days is also painfully budgeted. There have only been a handful of 2-hour films in 2015 that I can honestly say that I loved (might write about those later). While Ellis says he finds himself still leaning towards cinema because television is a writer’s medium and film a director’s medium, I pose the possibility that television might be working better these days exactly because of that. Perhaps television simply allows the screen presentation to be closest to its writer’s conception?

I understand that we still have some promising movies on the horizon (The Hateful 8, The Big Short, the Revenant), but at the time of this writing, television is killing cinema in storytelling; find one film that was better written than this most recent season of Fargo; and aesthetics; can Ellis really argue that anything looked better than the lush grotesque world of Hannibal? I feel comfortable saying that television is right now the most important art form in our culture. No other medium is uniting high and low culture in such an entertaining manner. No other medium is inspiring this level of obsessive fandom. Mad Men theorists have replaced Blade Runner theorists. Television just works differently because it is so sprawling. Now that networks have realized smart storytelling can still be profitable, the sky is the limit. It’s almost crazy that it took this long to figure out. Why wouldn’t a 10-hour story work better than a two-hour movie? It’s wonderful to get to know these characters, to REALLY know them. When James Gandolfini died, my friend Tony Soprano died with him. I really felt sadness. No other art form inspires that level of obsession from me. Sometimes I feel like a fraud art critic because I watch and obsess over so much TV, but then I realize, EVERYONE does.

1. Hannibal Season 3

While it was hard to narrow down this list; it wasn’t hard to pick my clear favorite show of 2015. Hannibal was the best show of 2015. And while I must admit some bias in that I re-capped the entire season for Forbes and had great fun doing so, I don’t think I’m alone in this opinion. As wildly experimental and visually adventurous as the first two seasons of this excellent show were, they remained rooted in something of a psychedelic macabre procedural format. With Hugh Dancy’s Will Graham chasing down Mads Mikkelsen’s Hannibal Lecter to Florence in season 3, the show completely broke type and elevated itself to one of the great contemporary stories. Essentially broken down into two mini-series, the chase for Hannibal in Italy followed by a re-imagining of the legendary Red Dragon plotline, it was fascinating to watch this show jump from plot to plot while keeping the heart of the series intact. That heart was the alluring, potent, and powerful vaguely homoerotic relationship between Hannibal and Will. Hannibal was a romance at its core, and after puddles of blood and piles of bone, it ended with that romance symbolically consummated with Will and Hannibal’s savagely beautiful cutting down of the Red Dragon Francis Dolarrhyde (Richard Armitage). Hannibal tells Will, “This is all I ever wanted for you,” to which Will responds, “It’s beautiful,” and it truly was, as Will takes Hannibal in his embrace and takes the both of them over a cliff as original music from Siouxsie Sioux plays over the credits. Hannibal was about finding one’s true self and with the help of a friend and embracing it, societal standards be damned. Sublime. If Hannibal is indeed over, I can’t wait to see what showrunner Bryan Fuller does next, hopefully on a more auteur nurturing network (like HBO or AMC or FX) than the ratings hungry NBC had the ability to be.

2. Mr. Robot Season 1

How did it take this long for a series to come forth that directly addresses the two primary contemporary American fears: digital culture and the financial crisis? Mr. Show, birthed from the mostly dismal USA network, brought immediate credos to its network in the arena of high concept story-driven prestige television. The story of Rami Malek (the endearingly Arperger’s-y Elliot Alderson), a hacker working for a cyber security firm, who joins Mr. Robot (Christian Slater, or is he?) as they plan on taking on the bank Malek is paid to protect and rid the world of its digital debt. The show plays on our fears that our entire economy, and in turn out entire culture, is predicated on a mirage. Digital currency is fake (a fugazi, a fugazziii, it’s a woozy, it’s fairy dust, it isn’t real), and yet out entire worlds revolve around the number that appears on our computer screens when we log in to our bank account websites. Mr. Robot is a hero to the 99 percent (all of us would nearly be better off without debt, no?) and a terrifying villain to the 1 percent (all of whom we owe money to). All of that is true, but it was also just a magnificent story with a magnificent visual aesthetic. Modern New York has never looked starker; the pillar of western civilization is still just a digital wasteland. While I certainly sympathize with filmmakers like Tarantino and Vince Gilligan and their commitments to shooting on film, Mr. Robot makes a remarkable case for shooting digital. You can’t talk Mr. Robot too much without spoiling information; so if you haven’t seen it just get on Hulu now.

3. Banshee Season 3

Plenty of TV shows have sought to elevate what TV drama is capable of doing, but no show other than Banshee has elevated what cinematic action is capable of doing. Cinemax’s Banshee is the best action in any medium, ever. I mean that. Applying modern choreography and cinematography to John Woo’s “Gun-Fu” aesthetic allows this show to provide visceral excitement like none other on TV. With all the many accurate cultural concerns that surround television and its lacking in quality roles for women and minorities, Banshee has those roles in spades. There are bad to the bone female cops and assassins. There is an unflinchingly loyal black bartender/boxer/father figure. There is an Asian cross-dressing assassin/hacker/thief. There are Native American protagonists AND antagonists. Its lead villain and sometimes anti-hero Kai Proctor (a magnetic Ulrich Thompsen) is fucking Amish for chrissakes (well, the character is not the actor). While all the characters are comic book cartoonish, so is the show. With all the blood and broken bones and explosions, the show still makes time for remarkable character development. It’s great, and everyone sleeps. Catch up before its fourth and final season hits the air next month.

4. Halt and Catch Fire Season 2

I enjoyed Halt and Catch Fire’s premiere season, but it was clear that something was sorely missing. It felt like the series was failing to see what made it interesting. The last thing anyone needed to see was another anti-hero driven prestige drama. There is simply no way to surpass the majestic heights hit by Tony Soprano, Don Draper, and Walter White. And while Joe Macmillan (Lee Pace) was sufficiently tortured and mysterious, that formula had already been used to dazzling effect on AMC’s other hallmark series Mad Men and Breaking Bad. You can’t just make your anti-hero pansexual and expect the audience to be transfixed. That’s why season 2, which shifted its focus to its complex, brilliant, and ethereally beautiful female leads Cameron Howe (Mackenzie Davis) and Donna Clark (Kerry Bishé), was such a remarkable leap forward for the series. While the show didn’t completely abandon Macmillan and Clark’s husband Gordon (Scoot Macnairy), it relegated its male characters to romantic foil plot lines. Cameron and Donna, forming one of television’s most complex and truth ringing representations of friendship, fought the odds and started a renegade online gaming company, Mutiny. While a narrative look at the tech world of the 1980s was exciting enough to watch, it is more fascinating watching these un-relatably brilliant characters being plunged into relatable episodes of human drama: romantic entanglements, depression, mental illness, inconsolable loneliness. AMC should be given a stand up applause for giving this show its deserved third season. The network as of right now is without another critically acclaimed hallmark drama series, but with the reliable stream of money brought in by the Walking Dead, the network has the ability to give smart shows like this some breathing room.

5. Mad Men Final Season

The Sopranos is my favorite thing ever created, but I’d be lying if I said that the ending didn’t initially disappoint me. I’ve since come to admire it as an appropriately bold artistic decision, but Matthew Weiner’s ending for Mad Men surpassed it and perhaps surpassed all other series’ endings. Watching Don Draper achieve self-acceptance through enlightenment and coming up with that iconic Coca-Cola add was beautiful, poignant, and perfectly summed up everything that the series was about. Mad Men consistently questioned the validity of the ideal American dream through its protagonist Don Draper, a man who had perfectly carved himself out a piece of that American dream only to destroy it through loneliness and hedonism time and time again. Can products replace happiness? Probably not, but by accepting the culture that we live in is the only way we can really achieve a sense of peace. Drink the Kool-Aid, drink the gin, and let the fog roll in. Weiner gave all of our beloved characters satisfying conclusions: Peggy becomes the boss lady and finds love, Pete decides he doesn’t need to fuck everything and gets Trudy back, Roger finds love with Marie Draper and become an international rich guy. All the characters find their piece of the American dream and bask in it. It’s so much easier than questioning.

6. The Americans Season 3

The Americans, ostensibly a show about Soviet spies living as American citizens, is the best portrayal of marriage on television. Over the first couple seasons, Phillip (Matthew Rhys) and Elizabeth (Keri Russell) Jennings saw their arranged marriage evolve into a real marriage. But by season 3, their daughter Paige (Holly Taylor) realizes whom her parents, raising the stakes of the marriage considerably. What’s fascinating about this show is that even the characters’ true personas, as in Phillip and Elizabeth, are called into question. They are constructs of some kind, even if the tenderness shared between them is real. The show has also started raising ideological discrepancies between the two, with Elizabeth an unfailing Soviet loyalist and Phillip an increasingly self-disgusted depressive, his last loyalty being to Elizabeth and Elizabeth only. The show’s muted colors and atmosphere replace big budget action sequences, and yet season by season the show delivers nail biting tension.

7. The Leftovers Season 2

From the beginning of Damon Lindeof’s depressive supernatural drama The Leftovers’s (based on the Tom Perrota novel of the same name) second season, in which a pre-historic woman is bitten by a snake and survives to keep her baby alive, it was clear that the show had figured itself out. The first season of the show held promise, but was too marred in ultra-bleak saturation for it to let its heart shine through. Season 2 was a triumph. The show moved to the town of Jarden, Texas, a supposedly mystical town in which no members of the town’s population have departed. This season could warrant entire course studies (and no one wrote better about it than Matt Zollez Seitz), so I’m going to talk about the season’s 8th episode, International Assassin (an episode that alone could warrant a course study). Our show’s crying faced, skinny jeaned hero Kevin Garvey (Justin Theroux) has killed himself in efforts to rid himself of the specter of Patti Levin (Ann Dowd), who after killing herself in front of Kevin has haunted him throughout the second season. The episode signifies the massive questions that the show asks; most importantly, what is it to be a human being? Though Patti was a wholly un-sympathetic ghoul throughout most of the show, Kevin must kill her three times: as the ghoul, as an innocent and abused child, and as a complete human being. To kill her, he had to understand her, and to understand her he had to love her. To watch this show is to confront all that makes us humane. To understand that behind every affectation of behavior is a world of experience and in most cases, pain. Please give us a season 3, HBO. THIS is your strongest series.

8. Jane the Virgin Seasons 1 and 2

Friends of mine are consistently shocked when I espouse on the virtues of this show. Then I tell them to at least give it a try. This show is shockingly smart, self-referential, well acted, and fucking hilarious! At first glance it seems like a ridiculous show with a dumb premise (virgin gets knocked up), but soon you find that the show is actually both a celebration and a parody of the telenovelas that routinely churn out these types of ludicrous plotlines (in fact it’s a VERY loose adaptation of Venezuelan telenovela Juana la Virgen). There is nothing else like it on TV, and the only thing it kind of reminds me of are those magnificent first three seasons of Arrested Development. Where as the Bluths were creating a hyper self-referential culture mildly poking fun at family sit-coms, Jane the Virgin is doing the same thing for telenovelas. You could probably jump in at any point in this show and laugh, but watching from the beginning allows you to become hip to the show’s superbly well-written joke culture. These actors seem to really be having fun with the material. Jamie Camil as Rogelio de la Vega, Jane’s insecure, narcissistic, eccentric, pretty boy, long lost biological father, is infectious in his enthusiasm for being a caricature. And if someone told me I could marry Gina Rodriguez (Jane) right now, without ever knowing her, I’d go buy a ring.

9. Fargo Season 2

With season 1 of Fargo, Noah Hawley effectively told a very Coen Brothers-esque story in the Coens-created world of Fargo. There was the hapless and incompetent crime spree of Lester Nygaard (Martin Freeman), a stand-in for William H. Macy’s character in the film. There was the Frances McDormand-ringing Molly Solverson (Allison Tolman). He even threw in an Anton Chigurh-like, supreme evil demon in the form of Lorne Malvo (Billy Bob Thornton). Season 2 has kept the Coens references intact. There is still hapless crime spreeing with the Blumqvist couple (Jesse Plemons and a remarkably unhinged Kirsten Dunst). But he has also done something that the Coens have never really sought to achieve: telling a wide-reaching epic crime tale (you could argue they did so in Miller’s Crossing, but that film still felt comparatively small). However reductive it may be to call season 2 of Fargo Coens meets Scorsese, it’s not all that inaccurate. There is the stylized brutal violence. There are small time characters with big time aspirations. There are troves of major characters killed off. Ultimately, I think season 2 surpassed its predecessor, in that it is a season I want to watch again, immediately. Props to FX for giving this show the money it needs to work; its multiple shoot-outs are the best action TV has seen not on the aforementioned ‘Banshee.’

10. Jessica Jones Season 1

You are about to start seeing some major Netflix love, and they are undoubtedly the best “network” around right now. Though network staples like Orange is the New Black and House of Cards have gotten weaker with seasons, they introduced an amazing 10 new shows this year, made even more amazing by the fact that even the worst of them are still kind of good. Cary Fukunaga even used the network to release his poetically brutal film Beast of No Nation, one of the best of the year sans question. So yeah, “Netflix and chill” has never been as tempting a pickup line as it is now. It took me four episodes to lock into Jessica Jones. When the show gets going, it soars. Never has comic material felt so adult. Kristyen Ritter's performance as the supernaturally strong Jessica is pained and sexy and magnetic, and it holds the greatest comic villain of all time in Killgrave (David Tennant). Ultron is a goddamn animated machine voiced by James Spader. Killgrave is a suave British man who is a mind controlling and victim-blaming rapist. Jessica Jones poses the idea that however convenient some kind of superpower would be, we still wouldn’t be able to escape our human problems. Jessica is damaged, but she’s courageous enough to take on her damage. The show is hopeful while still being supremely dark.

11. You're the Worst Season 2

Stephen Falk’s Los Angeles-set tale of millennial narcissistic love is the most important comedy on TV. Following asshole novelist Jimmy (Chris Geere) and mean streaked publicist Gretchen (Aya Cash) as they fall in love with each other in spite of themselves is resonant in ways that few shows are. How many of us have fallen in love when we expected to fall in love? That isn’t how it works. The show’s second season added real stakes to the relationship with the revelation of Gretchen’s crippling manic depression and Jimmy’s misguided attempts to save her from the disorder. Mental illness has never really been portrayed in as real a way on TV, and anyone that has loved someone that has suffered in this kind of way might have trouble getting through the season’s later episodes. No other show has ever hit me on such a deep emotional level while still making me laugh all the time. Despite its dismal ratings, FX has given the go-ahead for season 3. God bless that fucking network!

12. Broad City Season 2

Broad City’s second season featured four of its funniest episodes ever opening it, and then six or so less funny episodes. That being said, Ilana Glazer and Abbi Jacobsen are still telling the funniest stories on TV by a wide margin. More than that, no other show is accurately portraying what it means to be young and living in New York these days like these girls do. Are they getting by? Do they pay rent? We don’t know, but we know that a lot of us aren’t getting by in any stretch of the imagination. But the city still remains a pretty intoxicating and stupid fun place to be, so we stay. The only thing there really is to worry about is turning 30, by which point I hope Broad City will still be telling these rip-roaringly funny episodes.

13. The Knick Season 2

Stephen Soderbergh’s work on The Knick speaks to my aesthetics-oriented mind. The show, shot digitally, is gorgeous. The sets, re-creating early 20th Century Manhattan, are incredibly realized. Even on its sunniest of days, the show looks muted, harsh, cold. It shouldn’t look any different. The series captures what it feels like to live in a city where anyone not filthy with old money can’t expect to live past age 40. You can feel the desperation in each of Soderbergh’s athletic camera angles and on the faces of its remarkable cast. It is also about obsession, making it the perfect pseudo career-reviving role for the wonderful actor that is Clive Owen. As Dr. John Thackery, Owen exudes a man that is both kept alive and internally destroyed by obsession. Season 2 starts with Owen kicking both heroin and cocaine after leaving an institution that used heroin to treat cocaine addiction. He stays clean for a bit, only to realize that if he uses cocaine and heroin together he can counteract and accentuate the effects of both drugs, allowing him to both dive back into his groundbreaking surgical research and undoubtedly feel pretty groovy. Thackery becomes obsessed with the idea that if addiction is a disease, it can be cured by the modern medicine that he is helping forge. This hopeful self-deception keeps him going for a time. In that time he is also able to cure Syphilis, making a case for the merits of obsession. That’s the point, The Knick never passes judgement on characters, it allows them to make mistakes and rectify those mistakes, or not. No other period piece feels this contemporary.

14. Master of None Season 1

For some reason, I have had multiple run-ins with Aziz Ansari, and my opinion has changed about him time and time again. The first time I met him was after winning tickets to see him perform standup on Cape Cod by answering Parks and Rec trivia correctly on a local radio station. Aziz popped into to a townie bar the night before, and drunk, I freaked out and approached him. He was, well, quite cold. Though I loved him on Human Giant and early seasons of Parcs and Rec, my opinion of his comedy lessened as it did with him as a person. But I was shocked by how good Master of None was, revealing an Aziz that finally feels at peace with his success and being in his own skin. The show’s artistry lies in the mundane. By merely putting a handsome Asian actor in the stud role usually reserved for a white guy, he reveals so much of what is wrong with Hollywood casting. I know I shouldn’t feel surprised, and yet I do all the same. Whether Aziz knew this or not writing, I have no way to tell, but he seems far too intelligent a writer and a person to be completely ignorant to the impact this show would have. Two weeks ago, I ran into Aziz again on the subway when I happened to be listening to him speak about the show with Marc Maron on the WTF podcast. I told Aziz I was doing so, and congrats on the show. This time he greeted my reception with a warm smile and a, “Thanks man, so glad you like it.” Success isn’t an easy thing to get used to, but Aziz has definitely entered into the mature phase of his career.

15. Narcos Season 1

Narcos has problems, including but not limited to its thinly drawn out lead Boyd Holbrook as DEA Agent Steve Murphy and its stretches in tedium. But it still feels like something of a triumph for a narrative television show. The story of Pablo Escobar is massive and let’s face it, fucking crazy. Narcos was able to tell this story, have it make sense, and still keep it a lean 10 episodes. Its showrunner, Brazillian filmmaker José Padilha, could teach all of Hollywood something about editing. The show is sequenced like a music video, with short scenes rolling into one another in strong and linear manner. The Escobar has been attempted on film before, but it needed 10 hours to really flesh out the mania of this whole episode in history. We also need to praise Wagner Moura’s portrayal of Escobar. Though the actor physically resembles the drug lord, that’s hardly all that made him fit for the part. Moura captures Escobar’s unflinching charisma and magnetic self-confidence, as well as his unbridled menace, paranoia, and psychopathy. This is not a sympathetic portrayal; it is more in line with Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s depiction of Escobar as a manic monster in his brilliant work of non-fiction, News of a Kidnapping. And yet, he still feels very human. I am very curious what they will do with future seasons of this show, as season 1 takes us from Escobar’s smuggler origins to the burning of his house by American and Columbian forces. That’s almost 20 years of story in 10 episodes. Escobar was only alive another year following that episode, and yet this show presumably has many episodes left. Can they make this transition?

Honorable Mentions

If I was judging shows merely by central performances, Bloodline would make list through the sheer virtuosity of Ben Mendelsohn, whose Danny Rabourn elicited sympathy and disgust in equal measures. But the show’s occasional preposterous dialog and horrible ending kept it off my favorites. Daredevil, despite some noticeable stupidity, did well at setting up this gritty and adult Marvel world Netflix hopes to make magic out of. Though I left it off due to being non-fiction, HBO’s The Jinx was surely one of the most fascinating things on television this year, culminating with serial murderer and all-around creepy fucking guy Robert Durst incriminating himself while mic’d up in a bathroom and muttering evil shit to himself. The Good Wife has finally started to weaken in quality, mainly due to unforeseen circumstances like Julianna Margulies (Alicia Florrick) and Archie Panjabi (Kalinda Shwarma) refusing to work together. It has rebounded in its seventh season though, and remains far and away one of the best things on primetime network television. Marc Maron is one of my personal heroes, and while I enjoyed the third season of his titular AMC series, it felt like a down step from his brilliant second season. Also, Louis CK’s Louie, which for four years has been a perennial favorite of mine, also seemed to be running out of material. Now that Louis is one of Hollywood’s most powerful comedians, perhaps he is running out of the existential dread that made Louie a bonafide Nietzsche-ian dread fest, but with laughs. I also really like The Affair, even if I’m aware it’s not a totally stellar show. Must be the sex.


Text by Adam Lehrer


Your Ultimate Art Basel Miami Detox Guide by Tea Hacic

Miami Art Basel is that magical time once a year, when the young and fabulous (and their sugar daddies) travel to paradise to see art and sleep with art dealers. Miami Art Basel is where editors brag about their fair trade hemp sandals while snorting cocaine that was brought into the country by a pregnant teenager.

Miami Art Basel is where wet dreams come true and creative dreams are killed by two girls stabbing each other and therefore stealing attention from your performance art piece (dancing in leotards is a little 2008, tbh). 

Some people do look at art at Art Basel, because it’s their job to and because it’s raining too hard outside to say “screw it, I’ll get fired for the sake of a tan.”

But for those of us who don’t know the difference between digital collages and foam sculptures, the week  of Miami Art Basel was an excuse to go Hard As Hell (or HAH!) before the holy holidays. For those of us #blessed enough to be there, half the fun was making our Instagram followers who aren’t #blessed jealous of our poolside lounging. But the fun doesn’t have to end! The only thing your followers will hate more than seeing you enjoying Miami is seeing you bounce back afterwards.

photo by @yulzina

 

POST META MIAMI ART BASEL DETOX :

1) SPIRITUAL DISCOVERY
All that gossiping about those girls dressed like that at the Edition hotel wasn’t good for your soul. Hearing what your gay friends did at Twist (without you?!) didn’t feed your spirit. Name dropping Millie Brown to get free K wasn’t good for your Karma. Now that you’re home, spend some quality time on YOU, searching for an answer deep within…like, where in the deep web can one find leaked pictures of Saint West?

2) SELF-LOVE

Your face is disgusting. Come to terms with it. Say it out loud, whisper it in a mirror, yell it at the sky. Admit it: you got so wasted at that MoMa PS1 party that you spent half the night pitching articles to the Wall Street Journal! (What’s the Wall Street Journal Doing at Basel? should have been one of them). In addition to alcohol poisoning, your skin is full of chlorine because you thought it would be fabulous to take your dress off and jump into the pool at the Versace Mansion party in the middle of the afternoon.

You were topless in front of all those New York Kids! And what did they do? They ignored you, the same way they do at Up&Down…because they were all on their phones, snapping pics of their cleavage and asking their moms to send more cash. On top of all that, falling asleep on someone’s Juicy Couture top (now un-ironic…thanks, VFILES!) couldn’t be good for your pores. I hear turmeric helps clear skin but I also hear it’s disgusting. Someone told me to crush Aspirin and make a face mask out of that and I would if I hadn’t stuffed my last painkillers in every orifice to try and ease my headaches. An easier option? Cover your brand new pimples in crystals instead. Willow Smith says they have healing powers. I hope she means the plastic ones…

3) EYES WIDE SHUT

Avoid all art!! Your eyes need a break from “made from scratch” Photoshop, sculptures with phone references and painted soft porn.

Ok, your goal was to go HAH! but you accidentally caught some art when you finally couldn’t bare another day cooped inside the Soho House…it started to feel wrong, as if outside the El Nino apocalypse were taking place and you were in a group of select privileged people who were chosen to survive it.

 

Even Lebron James had to flee that place! (Well, he left Soho House only when your friend started taking pics of him--what saved her from arrest were the butt pics Lebron’s bodyguard found on her phone when deleting all evidence of his employer’s sneaky whereabouts).

4) SWEAT IT OUT

All that dancing in heels and falling in sand took a toll on your muscles. Get some good stretching done while lying on your belly, arms reached out in front of you, holding your phone, deleting the numbers you picked up from Le Baron at Delano. (Why was everyone French there? Why are French men so slutty with their digits?)

5) NOURISH THYSELF

You probably ate a lot of Cuban Sandwiches, Haitian hangover helpers and buttery brunch bullshit…my body is still hurting from the egg salad I ate at the Toilet Paper lounge at the UNTITLED fair, which was basically just a pint of mayonnaise. This post-Basel week, only eat nourishing and cleansing things your body and bowels will thank you for. Here’s what your diet should look like:

Breakfast:

Happiness Smoothie (MDMA comedown recipe)

Lunch:

A handful of sprouts sprinkled over gluten-free toast, topped off by a laxative.

Dinner:
A Bloody Mary, 12 oysters your Tinder Date will pay for, a handful of pita chips from the samples section of Whole Foods and a taco from a truck near the Bedford Stop™

If none of that helps, just post a throwback pic from the beach and write “miss u” .


Text by Tea Hacic. Follow Tea on Instagram here. Follow Autre Magazine: @AUTREMAGAZINE



The Best Feminist Memoirs of 2015

The political and social landscape of 2015 inspired need for both self-reflection and a call to action. This year, we saw the release of beautiful new memoirs by feminist icons of the past few decades—Patti Smith, Gloria Steinem, Janet Mock, and more—tackling issues of women’s rights, self-empowerment, and art itself. Here are some of my favorite feminist memoirs from the past year, along with some additional must-read memoirs:

1. M Train by Patti Smith

Everyone’s favorite punk poet laureate gives us a glimpse of her daily wanderings as an aging artist, confronting mortality, loss, and the ephemerality of experience with honesty and grace. Purchase here.

2. My Life on the Road by Gloria Steinem

The icon of second wave feminism reflects on her nomadic upbringing and how travel has continuously inspired her to keep asking questions, keep listening, and above all, keep moving. Find it here.

3. Girl in a Band by Kim Gordon

At once unpleasantly gritty and remarkably beautiful, Gordon’s memoir covers everything from growing up with a mentally ill older brother, to the making of those famous Sonic Youth albums, to her distaste for Lana Del Rey. Buy it here.

4. Not That Kind of Girl by Lena Dunham

Dunham has often been called the voice (or a voice) of the millennial generation, and her self-exposing memoir is of no exception. Not That Kind of Girl is full of confessions and self-reflections on topics such as ovarian cysts and a Puerto Rican boyfriend with a Comic Sans tattoo. Check it out.

5. How To Be a Woman by Caitlin Moran

Piecing together social observations and personal experiences, Moran sheds new light and humor on the fight for women’s empowerment and gender equality. Purchase here.

6. Bossypants by Tina Fey

Half-memoir and half-comedy sketch, Fey explores the humor of female vulnerability and the bittersweet power of being a woman in comedy at the top her game. Buy it here.

7. Yes Please by Amy Poehler

Poehler’s memoir-ish book is full of both self-empowerment revelations and crippling difficulty of writing the book itself, told in a scattered series of narratives that are at once funny and endearing. Read it here.

8. I Am Malala: The Girl Who Stood Up for Education and Was Shot by the Taliban by Malala Yousafzai

Malala Yousafzai is a force. Her memoir is powerful, not just for its vivid drama, but also for its exigent call for girls’ right to education worldwide. Check it out.

9. #Girlboss by Sofia Amoruso

The CEO of Nastygal takes us on her journey towards success and self-empowerment. Purchase here.

10. Redefining Realness by Janet Mock

In a world where very few memoirs by trans women of color exist, Janet Mock offers a beautiful and compelling glimpse into her intellectual journey to self-actualization, happiness, and success. Check it out here.


Text by Lucia Ribisi. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE


Pop and Circumstance: An Existential Review of Grimes’ New Album and The State Of Popular Music

Paris Hilton reworked album by Banksy, with live cockroaches. photograph by Barney Pell


Editor’s note: Alex Kazemi is one of our favorite “voices of a generation” – a voice that has risen angelic and rebellious above the Tweeting and Snapchatting hordes. In a recent podcast, Bret Easton Ellis called Kazemi a “millennial friend” and “a contrarian 20 year old with a brilliant grasp of the contradictions that exist within his generation.” In the following review, if it can be called that, Kazemi shares his views on Grimes’ new album and wonders: “If Grimes can have a career in pop music, why can’t reality TV stars Scheana Marie and Heidi Montag?"


text by Alex Kazemi

 

Earlier this year indie artist Grimes tweeted "Now that indie music is obsessed with pop I feel completely bored by it”, an early indication and self-exploitation of her new album Art Angels. With one listen through - it is clearly a pop record.  It’s not a surprising move, from someone who dropped a Rihanna-reject single as her own single, and after poor response would back track and say “I made this song to be bought.”  It would be hilarious to hear the day, a similar sentiment came out of the mouth of someone like a young Britney Spears, an artist who will never be afraid of the word: pop star.

This idea of pop only being cool when it's under the guise of indie-art is wrong. The most creative pop songs are inside the corporate discography's of pop stars like Britney Spears. You like Tricky? You like to get trippy? Um, have you ever heard "Touch Of My Hand" off 2003's In The Zone? 

It’s, like what? Whoever needed the indie world, to make pop socially acceptable, or “cool”? Pop is pop. It’s music for the universe. Sometimes cheap pop is better, sometimes cheap is tastier.  Grimes is an example of someone who makes “smart pop music” that is tailored for the "music intellectual," the type of person who is not supposed to feel embarrassed or find it ironic to be listening to pop music because it's "actually creative, and you know smart pop music," but what is smart pop music? Is it when the artist behind it is the self-aware one controlling everything rather than a team of people conspiring on an album for a face to perform? If Grimes can have a career in pop music, why can’t reality TV stars like Heidi Montag or Scheana Marie? Why should there be a time and place when pop music is valid? All pop music should always be valid. Stupid or smart, it’s valid.

2006’s "Stars Are Blind" by Paris Hilton, to most millennials (one including CHARLI XCX) is one of the best pop songs of all time but not because it's Paris singing it but because it's a toasty tropical song that washes you away to someplace else in the way pop music should, and most of us who heard it for the first time - were children, too young to ever think to question the motives of a Reality TV star heiress that was making a record with J.R & Scott Storch.  The actress turned pop star trick was normalized to us growing up in the early 2000s, from Lindsay Lohan to Ashley Tisdale. These people were, and are pop artists.

Now in 2015, a time where the most watched people on TV: Reality TV stars like the women on Real Housewives and Kim Kardashian have released singles, this is just normal. There were even torturous rumors of teen terror Kylie Jenner releasing a single last year. It's a nu sacred rite of passage. You go on reality TV, once you finally reach d-list status, you record your single, drop it on iTunes on your own label and it becomes a trashy cult classic for a lucky few and then we all move on with our lives.  I'm sure Juliet from Bravo's Ladies Of London is going to drop her new single "Fashion Is My Passion! (Stylist From London)" any day now. Half a decade ago, reality TV star Heidi Montag dropped her debut album SUPERFICIAL, it featured major pop producers, one including RedOne, who at the time was the madman behind the sounds of GaGa's opus The Fame Monster. Why wasn’t Heidi's music treated the same as GaGa's? I’ll never know. It's not like vocal talent means anything in pop (see Haillee Steinfield). There can be something beautiful, disgusting and entrancing, listening to a young woman who clearly grew up worshipping mega pop idols like Madonna record vocals with such plastic and powerful delusion.  It is now strange to think that Montag may have had ulterior motives being on The Hills, a focus to further her own pop career. 

Heidi's music is not accessible, and to some is unlistenable - it's because not many people are brave enough to step into a dark world that even Barbie, herself might not be ready to go into. 

Heidi Montag, would release gorgeous self-made iMovie music videos, long before Lana Del Rey. One still exists under an abandoned YouTube account “HeidiMontagRecords,” where a teaser for the never released video for “LOOK HOW I’M DOING,” a 33-second clip of paparazzi taking photos of her. Flashes burst, as she steps out of a black car - a fetish of her own nothingness.  


"It's not like vocal talent, means anything in pop...there can be something beautiful, disgusting and entrancing, listening to a young woman who clearly grew up worshipping mega pop idols like Madonna record vocals with such plastic and powerful delusion."


It could be that Montag was born to be a cult-super pop star, who would only exist in a once in a life time televised Miss Universe performance, and a Superficial promo club tour that can only exist in our imagination.  Unfortunately, Heidi Montag, is the real life, unfinished pop star. 

It is true that Heidi's early 20s sex-kitten days are long gone, but since she turns 30 next year - it could be a great time for her to deliver a spa-lounge record, about coming to terms with her own mortality and the tragic loss of fame. An experience, many people beyond her years might never have. I believe Montag is capable of some fire-torch laments, and haunting shoegaze moments while remaining her natural gift for pop. We are ready to hear your screams, Heidi.

Scheana Marie, the reality TV star of Bravo’s Vanderpump Rules - has been hard at work on her pop career since the show’s 2013 premiere, using it as a platform to get her music out, while living a double life as a waitress at SUR.  The show aired haunting footage of her performing her single that sounds like the price it is sold for: “What I Like” to an empty Hollywood audience. Some people may see her as a talent show act, but for her it is real – scary and fascinating, lost in the imagination. A delusion and ambition that could out-flame the early Montag, herself.

On the season premiere of the newest season of Vanderpump Rules, Scheana Marie held a decade party for her 30th birthday. She decided to dress up as VMAs 80s Madonna. The majority of pop stars today do that, everyday; the only difference is they get paid for it. The majority of the world may perceive Scheana as a "basic bitch," like every other American 30 year old woman who posts countless duck-lip selfies, goes to Hanson concerts and puts her hand on her hip in a skin tight dress at any given photo op, but maybe it's time for "basic bitch" pop to infiltrate and end our exhausting boring competitive costume party of colored hair, and predictable shock. A club girl pop star who loves being normal and partying, sounds like a refreshing spa-day for the pop world. Someone should get her in the studio fast, or she should make a Kickstarter to fund her debut album. Possibly, Starbucks could fund her next video. She could start off, where Paradiso Girls stopped. Her normality, is a gritty asset - the pop world needs. 

If either Scheana or Heidi, ended up in the studio with Major Lazer or Avicii - what would make these girls not deserve the spot? Maybe, Marie and Montag’s refreshing approach to pop music - desperate, hungry delusion is actually something endearing and genuine, in the time of Meghan Trainor. A void of vocal talent is important. Scheana Marie and Heidi Montag on Top 40 beside today’s groundbreaking acts like X-Ambassadors and OMI could be nothing short of revolutionary. 

The purity and beauty of reality TV stars turned pop-stars like Heidi Montag and Scheana Marie is that they are the opposite of ironic. There is nothing hilarious about their music, they want to be pop stars, they live and die for this shit. It's that simple. It's real. It's not getting the last laugh, or caring to think the world thinks they are ironically experimenting with the genre, in a way that is "smart and valid.”  It's a horrifying and gaudy "Give me my fucking video. Give me my dance track. Make me look like a star, and let's take over the world" kind of thing. Isn't this, what real art angels are made of?

The Year of The Zine: Autre's Picks For the Top Ten Zines of 2015

2015 is when the zine went mainstream. Some of our fave artists dabbled in the fine craftsmanship of the stapled chapbook that many people think dates back to the early days of punk, but it actually can be dated all the way back to 1776 when Thomas Paine published his famous pamphlet, Common Sense, which rifled enough feathers for thirteen colonies to declare war and independence from the British. Fancy that. However, the modern zine, which is shorthand for fanzine – not magazine as many believe – was a photocopied, hastily stapled together collection of appropriated imagery and art school angst. In 2015, the zine has held true to its DIY Xerox aesthetic, with a few surprising contributions – and of course some obvious contributors from the likes of one of our favorite photographers working today, Sandy Kim, and from one of our favorite new Los Angeles queer-cult collective, Gurt. Here are ten of our favorite zines that came out in 2015, so far.  

Sandy Kim LA XXX

When we interviewed Sandy Kim in May, we described her pictures as a “neon-hued punk diary of her life.” Her most recent project LA XXX, calls the artist a “Busy Petite Exotic Korean Treasure” at the bottom of the newsprint-style zine. The artist’s background in shooting for the band Girls alongside post-sex portraits of her boyfriend lends its gritty feel to her new photos. Published by SFAQ[Projects], the 20 pages cover everything from penises made out of pills to nude self portraits. The limited run of 250 copies can be purchased on the SFAQ[Projects] website or you can check out more images from the run on her Instagram.

Jonathan Leder A Study in Fetishisms Vol. 2

Jonathan Leder’s second volume of A Study In Fetishisms dives into the American captivation with blondes, and their various accompanying reputations. Curated by Amy Hood, the 64-page zine explores the timeless idea of if “blondes really have more fun” in text, and through Leder’s film photography. Featuring blondes with a girl-next door as well as early Playboy look, the zine can be purchased through Imperial Publishing.

Chloë Sevigny No Time For Love

No Time For Love is almost like finding and reading Chloë Sevigny’s diary that a child with a sticker collection was in possession of before you. The zine is a compilation of photos of Sevigny’s past loves, both platonic and romantic. To preserve their identities (for the most part), Sevigny placed stickers over their faces. In addition, she also included clippings from 90s tabloids about her which provides an intimate and at the same time outsider feeling to the zine. The 28-page zine can be purchased through Innen Zines, in Euros of course.

Tom Sachs Satan Ceramics

Shhh, this zine actually came out in 2014, but we had to include it in this list, because it's so good. The artist collective Satan Ceramics is composed of artists Tom Sachs, Pat McCarthy, JJ PEET,  and Mary Frey. The sculptors use a variety of different mediums including clay in their symbolic works. As a result of their weekly art gatherings, Satan Ceramics, the 64 page black and white zine, is comprised of images of their show at Salon 94 and can be purchased on Tom Sachs’s website. Ranging from images of Tom Sachs’s Cyclops, a porcelain and bamboo stereo to Pat McCarthy’s tonal reductions fired on porcelain, the zine will make you wish you had gone, or feel smug about going to their installation at Salon 94.

Brad Elterman No Dogs On Beach

Brad Elterman’s archive of photos is a gold mine. Lucky for you, he’s put the best of them into a zine in his new publishing venture No Dogs On Beach. The iconic rock’n’roll and pop culture photographer started his career as a 16-year-old photographing Bob Dylan in concert and escalated to taking photos of names such as David Bowie and Michael Jackson backstage. After taking a hiatus from photography, he’s back to capturing images of today’s biggest influencers, and just put out his 80-page zine No Dogs On Beach which can be purchased on Smoke-room’s website.

The Fifth Goal 1998-2003: Transcendental Graffiti Zine (aka Freight Train Graffiti Zine)

Although The Fifth Goal 1998-2003: Transcendental Graffiti Zine is a book, the eight zines that the book is composed of speak to the true nature of what a zine was at its original conception years ago. The black and white, photocopy, cut and paste construction of the late Blake Donner’s work documents freight train graffiti art from 1998 to 2003. In The Fifth Goal, one can see the development of Donner’s passion for the unique art form through the way his zines shift in content ranging from spiritual questions to interviews of graffiti artists to drawings of train workers. The 436-page book has been created as a tribute to Donner by his friends and will be released at Printed Matter’s 2016 LA Art Book Fair on January 29th through February 2nd. It can also be purchased here

Deanna Templeton They Should Never Touch the Ground

Deanna Templeton and her skateboarder husband Ed Templeton have been described as “the godparents of zine culture,” it’s easy to understand why once you look at their work. Deanna Templeton’s history in street photography has led her to publish numerous works, her most recent zine being They Should Never Touch the Ground. Published by Deadbeat Club Press, Deanna got inspiration for the images from a trip to Europe where she noticed a lot of people sporting American flags. They Should Never Touch the Ground examines the different ways that the American flag is used and portrayed in society today in the U.S.A. and can be purchased on Deadbeat Club’s website.

James Concannon Machismo

“MACHISMO is a collection of self shot/self starring unedited “dick pics” taken around the country with an iPhone” reads the back of James Concannon’s new zine. Open the pages, and you’ll find Concannon’s interpretation of the 21st century sexual revolution driven by technology and vanity. Taken all over the United States, with different backgrounds, and at different points in masturbation, it gives the dick pics relatable, real life feeling. The artist launched MACHISMO at a gay bar, and the limited edition run of 40 copies was printed by Girlfriend Gallery. It's currently sold out, but you can try here

GURT the Zine – Issue 2: Gurtrasia

This little zine hails from the land of Los Angeles from of a collective of queer rebels who know how to party and how to put together an incredible zine. Last week saw the release of issue two of Gurt, aptly named Gurtrasia, at Bad Reputation and then the after party at Bar Marmont on the sunset strip. Issue two is described as such: "The Gurts have created a whole new world for all of #US to thrive in, but is it really any different from the Gurt they left behind?" Who knows, we say. Issue two includes work by the likes of Dan Savage, Marcel Alcala Christopher Argodale Brendan Cameron and more. You can find Gurt here.  

Sarah Piantadosi Milk Jagger

Through her new zine Milk Jagger, Sarah Piantadosi, a well known fashion photographer, breaks out of the limiting editorial photography world. There’s a dichotomy between the beautiful and the sleazy in the images, which is echoed between the contrast of the black and white images and their bright tie-dye like border. The pictures in the zine are based off the “Milk Jagger” immoral cop alter-ego of Michael B. Wallace, a musician. Her photos from Milk Jagger are also being exhibited at Doomed Gallery in London starting October 27th. You will be able to find a copy of the zine there. 


Text by Madeline Guyette and Oliver Maxwell Kupper. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE



Beautiful Vagabond: A Glimpse Into the Turbulent Life of the Late Edwige Belmore

Edwige Belmore, “the queen of punk” has died at the age of 58 in Miami. A great many things can be said of the nightlife maven, musician and model, and yet it seems that the complexity of her journey through life remains all too mysterious. What we do know is that she touched the lives of the twentieth century’s greatest cultural influencers, from Helmut Newton, to agnès b., to Andy Warhol, and many more. We also know that her life was a long, beautiful, rags-to-riches-and-back-to-rags-again tale of heartbreak and obscurity. Starting with her familial abandonment, to her discovery by the world of high fashion and art, and ending with her final chapter as resident artist and landscaper of the Vagabond Hotel in Miami—her LinkedIn account lists “landscaping hobo” and “palm tree studies” as her duties. Little is known about her sojourn in Japan or the years that she spent at a Hindu ashram in India, and few would want to sit through the documentary that recounts her years as tastemaker to the Starck Club in Dallas. However, these are the chapters that defined her as an icon whose flame burned white hot, then flickered indefatigably, only to be extinguished prematurely by a blood-borne illness while few aside from her inner circle were looking.

“Edwige Will Die, and Edwige Will Be Born”

Abandoned by her parents and raised in a Parisian convent, Belmore came into her formative years with an unwavering determination to forge her own path. In 1976, at nineteen years old, she saw the Sex Pistols perform live for the very first time. Mind blown and loins roused, she was changed completely, telling everyone that on November 6, 1979, “Edwige will die, and Edwige will be born.” Friends assumed she was planning her suicide, but what she had in mind was more like what later generations would call a re-brand. She burned all of her clothes, and bought one outfit that was definitively hers. “I had completely this amazon look: riding pants, high heels, white shirt with a skinny tie, with a big old beaten leather jacket that’s so cool, shaved head … I was some kind of alien, amazon, dominatrix or something.”

Edwige is dubbed the “Queen of Punk”

Photograph by Farida Khelfa

Springing into the Parisian punk circuit like an androgynous bat out of hell, Belmore was approached by two girls in a club who asked if she would play drums in their band. Having never played a musical instrument, she accepted, and their band, L.U.V. (for Ladies United Violently, or Lipsticks Used Viciously) was born. As the punk movement started to gain recognition in the media, she was asked to do interviews for Vogue, Elle, Nouvel Observateur and the like. Within no time she became the leader of a movement and was crowned the “Queen of Punk.”

A Foray into Modeling

Photograph by Philippe Morillon

Due to the perpetual stream of press, her notoriety grew rapidly and Edwige found herself unwittingly shepherded into the inner circles of haute couture. Catching the eye of Helmut Newton at a party chez Paloma Picasso, the louche photographer followed her incessantly throughout the night begging to take her picture. Without any experience or ambition for modeling, the gender-bending ingénue made history posing for everyone from Helmut Newton, to Pierre et Gilles, Maripol, Andy Warhol, et al.

Cover of Façade Magazine with Andy Warhol

Photograph by Alain Benoist

As a symbol of counterculture, establishment-fucking fracas, as well as muse to the fulcrums of the art and fashion worlds, Belmore was the perfect companion to Andy Warhol for the cover of Façade. It was an underground, paper magazine that sought intriguing binaries to juxtapose on their covers, and this one would go down in art publication history with the headline: Pope of Pop Meets the Queen of Punk.

Walking for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler

Edwige never called herself a model, and didn’t want anybody else to, which is why asking her to walk had to be approached delicately. “Jean-Paul Gaultier came to me and said, ‘You look amazing. Do you want to be in my show?’ … he was like ‘do you want to be in my SHOW,’ which is whole different meaning.” Gaultier was curating looks from the street (a practice unheard of at the time), and putting street kids on the runway. Belmore drank champagne and got high throughout the entire presentation, yet she still managed to finish the show in a pair of towering stiletto heels singing Sid Vicious’s reprise of “My Way.”

A Hop Across the Pond to Studio 54

Edwige Belmore, Maripol & Bianca Jagger @ Studio 54, photograph by Duggie Fields

Having taken Paris by storm within the span of a single year, Warhol was anxious to introduce Belmore to the elite influencers of New York—or rather, he took it upon himself to introduce New York to the Queen of Punk. Approaching the illustrious nightclub, swaths of partiers parted like the Red Sea as she entered the club for her very first time, arm-in-arm with her regal, rebel counterpart. She was suddenly a member of the elite New York underground with contemporaries such as Bianca Jagger, Keith Haring, Debbie Harry, Kenny Scharf, and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Ambiance creator to Le Palace in Paris

Upon her return to Paris, Belmore was approached by ‘The Prince of the Night,’ Fabrice Emaer, and asked if she would work the door at his new nightclub, Le Palace. It was the Studio 54 of Paris, and Edwige made the perfect doorman. She was a 20-year-old Amazonian punk with six bodyguards facing hoards of anxious scenesters. Belmore claimed that she would look them in the eyes and feel immediately whether or not they were right for that evening’s ambiance. She once refused the King of Sweden because “obviously, he must have been an asshole.” It was during this chapter that she married her friend Jean Louis Jorge, a Dominican filmmaker fifteen years her senior, because in the age of free love, getting married was the most punk thing to do. Her wedding dress was a mock Chanel gown made from white terrycloth towels stitched by a friend who worked for the heritage house.

Music and Film

Cover image by Pierre et Gilles

From 1978-1988 Edwige acted in seven short and feature-length films, the first of which was a role in Jean-Marie Perier's 1978 film, Sale Rêveur with Lea Massari and Jacques Dutronc. She also played herself in the 2011 feature film Des Jeunes Gens Mödernes or Kids of Today. In 1979, Claude Arto introduced Belmore to the exhilarating sounds of the synthesizer and they started their Parisian Cold Wave band (referred to as New Wave by the Anglophones), Mathémathiques Modernes. Throughout the ‘80s she traveled back and forth between Paris and New York singing and playing sax with her lesser-known band, Jungle Geisha.

‘Maitresse de Maison’ at agnès b., New York

Photograph by Pierre et Gilles

Edwige met agnès back in 1976 when at the opening of agnès b. in Paris. Years later, when agnès opened the very first gallery/boutique in New York City, she asked Belmore to be the lady of the house. It was her job to fuse the worlds of fine art and fashion so that the crowd would flow seamlessly from one side to the other without any sense of awkwardness or separation. agnès hung an enormous photograph of Edwige (taken by Pierre et Gilles) that she had bought years prior behind the cash register, and placed a much smaller photo of herself below it to the right. In the early ‘80s, Belmore met the mellifluous, Nigerian-born, British singer Sade and the two engaged in a passional tryst. It is rumored that her hit single “Sweetest Taboo” was inspired by the Queen of Punk.

Photograph by Maripol

Edwige Finds Photography

Photograph by Edwige Belmore

In the final years of her life, Edwige created a photographic series called The I Within Your Imagination, which she planned to present in a group show called 7 Deadly Sins. The location of the intended exhibition and whether or not it happened is unknown. The series comprised 500 photographs taken of the same mysterious object at various different angles with varying sources of light. The effect seems a perfect representation of who she was to the myriad worlds in which she interacted. Having absolutely no training as a model, actress, singer, musician, or any of her other assorted professions, she seamlessly assumed those roles without any hesitation or fear of failure—she simply did and was everything that was asked of her.


Edwige never did finish the coffee table book that she and Maripol had hoped to publish, which would encompass photographs from the 75 artists and photographers who called her their muse. There are undoubtedly countless stunning photographs held in private collections that the world has never seen and we can only hope that these lost treasures will surface in the coming years. text by Summer Bowie


Photograph by Ellinor Stigle

[PHOTO ESSAY] Mike Krim Captures The Wild Beauty and Caribbean Pride at the 2015 West Indian Day Parade


Last time around, Mike Krim – founder of Brooklyn based publishing imprint Paperwork NYC – shared his striking and powerful images from the Freddie Gray protests in NYC. This time around, he captures the wild beauty and Caribbean pride of the West Indian Day Parade. Sure, there may be a lot of violence surrounding this annual parade that is held in Brooklyn, but Krim captures the beautiful side of the festivities, the reveling, the joy – all in one last gasp to mark the end of summer. 

CREDITS:

Photography: Mike Krim 

Location: Brooklyn

Learn more about Paperwork NYC

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Falling In and Out of Love With Fashion: Here Are Ten Things You Need To Know About Elio Fiorucci

This Monday, the fashion world was saddened to hear of the death of Italian designer Elio Fiorucci. Known as “The King of Jeans,” the Milanese designer’s raunchy, colorful fashions “sold America back to America.” His kitschy, recycled style broke the harsh, conservative boundaries of haute-couture, gaining international popularity with his low-cost materials and everyday fashions. The Fiorucci name was a staple in the jet-set world of youth and alternative culture in the New Wave era. However, despite fame and acclaim, poor management and legal issues separated Fiorucci from his brand into the 21st century. Interior design guru Rossana Orlandi said Fiorucci was “the point of reference for an entire generation.” Giorgio Armani called him “revolutionary.” Fiorucci recently celebrated his 80th birthday. Here are ten things you need to know about the fashion icon:

1. Elio Fiorucci was the son of a Milanese shoe-and-sandal shop owner

In 1963, a 22-year-old Fiorucci, while experimenting with new designs in his father’s shoe shop, created three pairs of rubber galoshes in bright, primary colors. After being featured in local Milan fashion magazine Amica, the galoshes sparked a sensation. 

2. Fiorucci was an integral player in fashion’s globalization

A Model In A Chiffon Dress With Roses And Red Satin Accents, 1976 Photo: Associated/REX Shutterstock/Rex USA

Fiorucci was deeply inspired by the bright miniskirts and kitschy baubles trendy in London’s Carnaby Street. When his first shop opened in Milan in 1967, he was determined to bring modern British and American fashion to Italy. The then-conservative Milan had barely seen t-shirts, jeans, and glitter. The store was instantly popular for modern Italian shoppers. Later, the Fiorucci brand would turn underground fashions such as the Brazilian thong and New Mexican glass beads into international trends.

3. The Fiorucci label popularized many staples of modern fashion

Fiorucci introduced the monokini and thong from Brazil, albeit while sparking controversy with the topless photos used to advertise them. The label was the first to popularize leopard-skin prints, Afghan coats, and fishnet stockings. In 1976, Fiorucci introduced the first “fashion” jean for women, selling over one million pairs of jeans in the first year on the market. The company created the first pair of stretch jeans in 1982.

4. Fiorucci was more interested in the everyday than “haute couture”

Fiorucci was known for favoring cheap materials—$10 t-shirts from India, plastic see-through jeans, aluminum lunch pails sold as purses. “I am a merchant, not a man of fashion,” he told WWD in 1976 at the opening of his Manhattan department store. He told People in 1980 he found the label haute couture “pathetic.”

5. Fiorucci’s department stores did not just sell clothes

Fiorucci’s first big store in Milan expanded from fashion to offer books, music, furniture, and makeup. It also boasted a performance space, vintage clothing area, and restaurant. The Milan shop became a focal point for youth and alternative culture. Fiorucci’s Manhattan location was known as the “daytime Studio 54.” New York’s New-Wave creatives would come to the store to sip espresso and trade party plans in the pre-soirée hours. The Fiorucci store was frequented by art exhibitions, book signings, and parties.  

6. Fiorucci advertisements were iconic for their innovation and controversy

The famous two-angels logo was plastered on bags, t-shirts, and billboards internationally. It was paired alongside models in skin-tight jeans wearing fluffy pink handcuffs, Brazilian thongs, camouflage and leopard-skin prints. Others show women in provocatively tight jeans and latex pants. An exhibition at SACI featuring the ads in 2012 claimed, “Such ads, and others with fluorescent colors and breakthrough graphics, ensured the Fiorucci brand a place in design and retail history.”  

7. His designs were extremely popular with celebrities of the 70s and 80s

The glitzy innovation exhibition in Fiorucci’s designs attracted the trendy, jet-set celebrities of the New Wave era. Notable Fiorucci-lovers included Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, and Jackie O. Fiorucci is credited with creating Madonna’s look, launching her career. Debbie Harry was known to scour Fiorucci collections for anything black. Truman Capote signed books in the window of the New York department store. Fiorucci sent an extra-large sweatshirt with a crown embroidered in gold thread to Princess Diana as a wedding present.

8. Fiorucci launched the careers of notable fashion designers

Fiorucci’s New York department store was the first to feature designers Betsey Johnson, Anna Sui, and Jill Stuart. Marc Jacobs told the New York Times in a 2001 interview, “'When I was 15, instead of going to sleep-away camp I spent the whole summer hanging out in the store. I had this wide-eyed glamour about these beautiful young people that globe-trotted from club to club dressing in these fabulous clothes. It was like a living, breathing fashion show that I wanted so much to be part of.” Jacobs credits Fiorucci with inspiring the low-cost designs

9. By the late 1980s, Elio lost the right to use his own name

Despite thriving sales, poor management forced Fiorucci to close its New York City location in 1986. By 1988, franchise disputes lead to the closing of all U.S. branches. The company was subsequently split into shares that were bought by various multinational corporations, and Elio Fiorucci was legally barred from designing under his own name.

10. Elio Fiorucci fell out of love with fashion

In 2003, after 36 years, Fiorucci closed down his historic shop in Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, Milan. He said he had “fallen out of love with fashion.” However, he continued to design. He launched his own brand, Love Therapy, and designed for Agent Provocateur. 


Text by Keely Shinners

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