On the occasion of Pitti Uomo 96, the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery presents ROMANZO BREVE DI MODA MASCHILE – A SHORT NOVEL ON MEN’S FASHION, an exhibit showcasing thirty years of menswear from 1989 to the present as seen through the eyes of Pitti Uomo. Passing through the halls of the Palazzo Pitti Museo della Moda e del Costume one by one, Olivier Saillard will recount the history and evolution of menswear, the intersection of Made in Italy with guest designers, and the fashion talents from the international contemporary scene together with the experiences of leading menswear entrepreneurs. The project is dedicated to the memory of Marco Rivetti, President of Pitti Immagine from 1987 to 1995. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper
In Rachel Comey's daring new pre-spring collection vivid colors, along with delicate, varying textures and proportions abound as she responds to the current moment. A moment emboldened by an undercurrent of resistance and irreverence towards dominant structures long overdue for upheaval. Setting the stage of her runway show at the old Bullocks Wilshire department store where Helen Gurley Brown used to be a secretary and Angela Lansbury was a salesclerk, she takes inspiration from the space by embellishing materials and decorating the silhouettes themselves - layering tulle belts over zebra denim or colorblocked wool trousers. Hand cut and dyed flowers dangle from the ear, sit at the neck or frame the face. A zebra jacquard is used for volume on top and to finish the look in a purposeful wedge sandal. In the spirit of Katherine Hepburn who used to shop here for shoes in the men's department, she has proposed new tuxedos and other alternative ideas for event dressing. Fringe and rhinestone decorate the legs and feathers are used in one gesture at the neck or from the ear, while in other moments the body is stripes.