CELINE 15
Palais De Tokyo
Paris, France
June 26th, 2022
DYSFUNCTIONAL BAUHAUS
Artworks by David Weiss, Alyss Estay, and Renata Petersen
Original soundtrack for Celine
โDesignโ Performed, written, and Arranged by Gustaf and produced by Chris Coady
Commissioned and co-produced by Hedi Slimane
Casting, Styling, and Set Design by Hedi Slimane
Hair Stylist
Esther Langham
Hair Colorist
Alex Brownsell
Makeup
Aaron De Mey
Click here to read more.
Paris Fashion Menโs Week was in typical fine form, re-invigorating my own lust for fashion after a dreary Milan and an uneven London. Though the two shows Iโm usually most excited for, those by Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy, already played out in Florence, their absence didnโt deter my attention. That would be mainly because of one man: Demna Gvasalia. Demna introduced Balenciagaโs first menswear show in history. The expectations between that notion, not to mention Vetements being the coolest brand in fashion and all that, were colossal. How did Demna respond to this soul crushing pressure? Click here to read more.
New York-based brand Rochambeau, designed by duo Josh Cooper and Laurence Chandler, makes no bones about being rooted heavily in hip-hop culture. Their FW 2016 presentation felt like a short if totally dope hip-hop party, using the catalyst of dueling DJs blaring โ90s hip-hop favorites, from Gangstarr to Illmatic to Reasonable Doubt. The bass was shaking the room. The collection was inspired by the 1992 Tupac-starring film Juice, and as a result oversized sportswear figures in as the primary motif of the collection. The looks were very clean, with navy blue nylon track pants and matching nylon turtleneck as perhaps my favorite. Some were a bit safe, such as a black bomber over a black hoodie (something we all see on the street enough to not need to be reminded of it on the runway). But then Rochambeau would redeem itself with something totally unique, such as the slightly loose oversized patterned track pants, or that same pattern shown as a button down shirt under a loosely tailored varsity jacket with nice looking oversized khakis. Rochambeau has established its brand DNA and sticks to it here, perhaps paving way for more grandiose statements to come. Text and photographs by Adam Lehrer
