Maiden Noir Fall/Winter 2017 "Traces Of Warm Light" Collection Presentation During New York Fashion Week Men's
photographs by Adam Lehrer
Click here to read the full review. photographs by Adam Lehrer
Gypsy Sportβs FW 2016 presentation shunned a runway for an aesthetic so much more powerful. Designer Rio Uribe opted for a podium of his typically streetcasted models. Once telling Dazed that he streetcasts because he wanted the label to βspan all five boroughs of NYC and the different races, genders, and cultures,β the models, while all professional soccer player ripped, were of a mixed bag of racial backgrounds. Can high fashion actually be inclusive? Doesnβt that sort of go against the whole idea of luxury? Uribe doesnβt care one fucking bit. Sick clothes for culturally ignored cultures. FW 2016 menswear felt like a new high in the brandβs aesthetic. Many of the looks exhibited the brandβs pension for gender fluidity: beautifully patterned smocks, blue dresses with smartly placed zippers, and jumpers elongated up at the sleeves and cropped at the waist. But, there were also pieces a more conventional dresser would feel nothing less than confident wearing, such as the excellent denim-esque fabric sweatshirt in baby blue, wildly oversized but fitted just right. Gypsy Sport usually does a good show, but a presentation felt right here somehow. It seemed to elevate the brand beyond the early beginnings of a passive concept and into a new stage of active manufacturing of desirable products. Text and photographs by Adam Lehrer
Read Adam Lehrer's review of the best of the best from day one of New York Fashion Week Mens here.
Are the next J.W. Andersonβs and Siblingβs of the world about to erupt from New York, who knows? Is Asaf Ganot, who just showed his SS 2016 collection, one of these designers? I am learning towards no, at least not from this collection. But, I am of a fashion generation brought up on experimental electronic music, Rick Owens, and Raf Simons. Ganotβs bright and sharply tailored clothes adorning the bodies of hulking beefcake types is different than the fashion world that I have been attuned to appreciate. And maybe that makes it radical? Or, at the very least, different. Click here to read the full review by Adam Lehrer.