Television As Art: The Best TV of 2015

I am a begrudging uber fan of Bret Easton Ellis. I have read all of his books. I know all of his essays. I Love his podcast. Nine times out of 10, his contrarian opinions are dead ringers for my own. I too I find this PC #loveme culture to be depressing and dangerous (how much progress can we expect to have or how much can we learn if we are all so afraid of saying anything offensive that we stay completely silent on everything?). But Ellis’s opinion that TV will always pale in comparison to cinema, merely due to aesthetics, I simply cannot get behind. Yes, TV is often budgeted smaller than film. But any film not starring Iron Man these days is also painfully budgeted. There have only been a handful of 2-hour films in 2015 that I can honestly say that I loved (might write about those later). While Ellis says he finds himself still leaning towards cinema because television is a writer’s medium and film a director’s medium, I pose the possibility that television might be working better these days exactly because of that. Perhaps television simply allows the screen presentation to be closest to its writer’s conception?

I understand that we still have some promising movies on the horizon (The Hateful 8, The Big Short, the Revenant), but at the time of this writing, television is killing cinema in storytelling; find one film that was better written than this most recent season of Fargo; and aesthetics; can Ellis really argue that anything looked better than the lush grotesque world of Hannibal? I feel comfortable saying that television is right now the most important art form in our culture. No other medium is uniting high and low culture in such an entertaining manner. No other medium is inspiring this level of obsessive fandom. Mad Men theorists have replaced Blade Runner theorists. Television just works differently because it is so sprawling. Now that networks have realized smart storytelling can still be profitable, the sky is the limit. It’s almost crazy that it took this long to figure out. Why wouldn’t a 10-hour story work better than a two-hour movie? It’s wonderful to get to know these characters, to REALLY know them. When James Gandolfini died, my friend Tony Soprano died with him. I really felt sadness. No other art form inspires that level of obsession from me. Sometimes I feel like a fraud art critic because I watch and obsess over so much TV, but then I realize, EVERYONE does.

1. Hannibal Season 3

While it was hard to narrow down this list; it wasn’t hard to pick my clear favorite show of 2015. Hannibal was the best show of 2015. And while I must admit some bias in that I re-capped the entire season for Forbes and had great fun doing so, I don’t think I’m alone in this opinion. As wildly experimental and visually adventurous as the first two seasons of this excellent show were, they remained rooted in something of a psychedelic macabre procedural format. With Hugh Dancy’s Will Graham chasing down Mads Mikkelsen’s Hannibal Lecter to Florence in season 3, the show completely broke type and elevated itself to one of the great contemporary stories. Essentially broken down into two mini-series, the chase for Hannibal in Italy followed by a re-imagining of the legendary Red Dragon plotline, it was fascinating to watch this show jump from plot to plot while keeping the heart of the series intact. That heart was the alluring, potent, and powerful vaguely homoerotic relationship between Hannibal and Will. Hannibal was a romance at its core, and after puddles of blood and piles of bone, it ended with that romance symbolically consummated with Will and Hannibal’s savagely beautiful cutting down of the Red Dragon Francis Dolarrhyde (Richard Armitage). Hannibal tells Will, “This is all I ever wanted for you,” to which Will responds, “It’s beautiful,” and it truly was, as Will takes Hannibal in his embrace and takes the both of them over a cliff as original music from Siouxsie Sioux plays over the credits. Hannibal was about finding one’s true self and with the help of a friend and embracing it, societal standards be damned. Sublime. If Hannibal is indeed over, I can’t wait to see what showrunner Bryan Fuller does next, hopefully on a more auteur nurturing network (like HBO or AMC or FX) than the ratings hungry NBC had the ability to be.

2. Mr. Robot Season 1

How did it take this long for a series to come forth that directly addresses the two primary contemporary American fears: digital culture and the financial crisis? Mr. Show, birthed from the mostly dismal USA network, brought immediate credos to its network in the arena of high concept story-driven prestige television. The story of Rami Malek (the endearingly Arperger’s-y Elliot Alderson), a hacker working for a cyber security firm, who joins Mr. Robot (Christian Slater, or is he?) as they plan on taking on the bank Malek is paid to protect and rid the world of its digital debt. The show plays on our fears that our entire economy, and in turn out entire culture, is predicated on a mirage. Digital currency is fake (a fugazi, a fugazziii, it’s a woozy, it’s fairy dust, it isn’t real), and yet out entire worlds revolve around the number that appears on our computer screens when we log in to our bank account websites. Mr. Robot is a hero to the 99 percent (all of us would nearly be better off without debt, no?) and a terrifying villain to the 1 percent (all of whom we owe money to). All of that is true, but it was also just a magnificent story with a magnificent visual aesthetic. Modern New York has never looked starker; the pillar of western civilization is still just a digital wasteland. While I certainly sympathize with filmmakers like Tarantino and Vince Gilligan and their commitments to shooting on film, Mr. Robot makes a remarkable case for shooting digital. You can’t talk Mr. Robot too much without spoiling information; so if you haven’t seen it just get on Hulu now.

3. Banshee Season 3

Plenty of TV shows have sought to elevate what TV drama is capable of doing, but no show other than Banshee has elevated what cinematic action is capable of doing. Cinemax’s Banshee is the best action in any medium, ever. I mean that. Applying modern choreography and cinematography to John Woo’s “Gun-Fu” aesthetic allows this show to provide visceral excitement like none other on TV. With all the many accurate cultural concerns that surround television and its lacking in quality roles for women and minorities, Banshee has those roles in spades. There are bad to the bone female cops and assassins. There is an unflinchingly loyal black bartender/boxer/father figure. There is an Asian cross-dressing assassin/hacker/thief. There are Native American protagonists AND antagonists. Its lead villain and sometimes anti-hero Kai Proctor (a magnetic Ulrich Thompsen) is fucking Amish for chrissakes (well, the character is not the actor). While all the characters are comic book cartoonish, so is the show. With all the blood and broken bones and explosions, the show still makes time for remarkable character development. It’s great, and everyone sleeps. Catch up before its fourth and final season hits the air next month.

4. Halt and Catch Fire Season 2

I enjoyed Halt and Catch Fire’s premiere season, but it was clear that something was sorely missing. It felt like the series was failing to see what made it interesting. The last thing anyone needed to see was another anti-hero driven prestige drama. There is simply no way to surpass the majestic heights hit by Tony Soprano, Don Draper, and Walter White. And while Joe Macmillan (Lee Pace) was sufficiently tortured and mysterious, that formula had already been used to dazzling effect on AMC’s other hallmark series Mad Men and Breaking Bad. You can’t just make your anti-hero pansexual and expect the audience to be transfixed. That’s why season 2, which shifted its focus to its complex, brilliant, and ethereally beautiful female leads Cameron Howe (Mackenzie Davis) and Donna Clark (Kerry Bishé), was such a remarkable leap forward for the series. While the show didn’t completely abandon Macmillan and Clark’s husband Gordon (Scoot Macnairy), it relegated its male characters to romantic foil plot lines. Cameron and Donna, forming one of television’s most complex and truth ringing representations of friendship, fought the odds and started a renegade online gaming company, Mutiny. While a narrative look at the tech world of the 1980s was exciting enough to watch, it is more fascinating watching these un-relatably brilliant characters being plunged into relatable episodes of human drama: romantic entanglements, depression, mental illness, inconsolable loneliness. AMC should be given a stand up applause for giving this show its deserved third season. The network as of right now is without another critically acclaimed hallmark drama series, but with the reliable stream of money brought in by the Walking Dead, the network has the ability to give smart shows like this some breathing room.

5. Mad Men Final Season

The Sopranos is my favorite thing ever created, but I’d be lying if I said that the ending didn’t initially disappoint me. I’ve since come to admire it as an appropriately bold artistic decision, but Matthew Weiner’s ending for Mad Men surpassed it and perhaps surpassed all other series’ endings. Watching Don Draper achieve self-acceptance through enlightenment and coming up with that iconic Coca-Cola add was beautiful, poignant, and perfectly summed up everything that the series was about. Mad Men consistently questioned the validity of the ideal American dream through its protagonist Don Draper, a man who had perfectly carved himself out a piece of that American dream only to destroy it through loneliness and hedonism time and time again. Can products replace happiness? Probably not, but by accepting the culture that we live in is the only way we can really achieve a sense of peace. Drink the Kool-Aid, drink the gin, and let the fog roll in. Weiner gave all of our beloved characters satisfying conclusions: Peggy becomes the boss lady and finds love, Pete decides he doesn’t need to fuck everything and gets Trudy back, Roger finds love with Marie Draper and become an international rich guy. All the characters find their piece of the American dream and bask in it. It’s so much easier than questioning.

6. The Americans Season 3

The Americans, ostensibly a show about Soviet spies living as American citizens, is the best portrayal of marriage on television. Over the first couple seasons, Phillip (Matthew Rhys) and Elizabeth (Keri Russell) Jennings saw their arranged marriage evolve into a real marriage. But by season 3, their daughter Paige (Holly Taylor) realizes whom her parents, raising the stakes of the marriage considerably. What’s fascinating about this show is that even the characters’ true personas, as in Phillip and Elizabeth, are called into question. They are constructs of some kind, even if the tenderness shared between them is real. The show has also started raising ideological discrepancies between the two, with Elizabeth an unfailing Soviet loyalist and Phillip an increasingly self-disgusted depressive, his last loyalty being to Elizabeth and Elizabeth only. The show’s muted colors and atmosphere replace big budget action sequences, and yet season by season the show delivers nail biting tension.

7. The Leftovers Season 2

From the beginning of Damon Lindeof’s depressive supernatural drama The Leftovers’s (based on the Tom Perrota novel of the same name) second season, in which a pre-historic woman is bitten by a snake and survives to keep her baby alive, it was clear that the show had figured itself out. The first season of the show held promise, but was too marred in ultra-bleak saturation for it to let its heart shine through. Season 2 was a triumph. The show moved to the town of Jarden, Texas, a supposedly mystical town in which no members of the town’s population have departed. This season could warrant entire course studies (and no one wrote better about it than Matt Zollez Seitz), so I’m going to talk about the season’s 8th episode, International Assassin (an episode that alone could warrant a course study). Our show’s crying faced, skinny jeaned hero Kevin Garvey (Justin Theroux) has killed himself in efforts to rid himself of the specter of Patti Levin (Ann Dowd), who after killing herself in front of Kevin has haunted him throughout the second season. The episode signifies the massive questions that the show asks; most importantly, what is it to be a human being? Though Patti was a wholly un-sympathetic ghoul throughout most of the show, Kevin must kill her three times: as the ghoul, as an innocent and abused child, and as a complete human being. To kill her, he had to understand her, and to understand her he had to love her. To watch this show is to confront all that makes us humane. To understand that behind every affectation of behavior is a world of experience and in most cases, pain. Please give us a season 3, HBO. THIS is your strongest series.

8. Jane the Virgin Seasons 1 and 2

Friends of mine are consistently shocked when I espouse on the virtues of this show. Then I tell them to at least give it a try. This show is shockingly smart, self-referential, well acted, and fucking hilarious! At first glance it seems like a ridiculous show with a dumb premise (virgin gets knocked up), but soon you find that the show is actually both a celebration and a parody of the telenovelas that routinely churn out these types of ludicrous plotlines (in fact it’s a VERY loose adaptation of Venezuelan telenovela Juana la Virgen). There is nothing else like it on TV, and the only thing it kind of reminds me of are those magnificent first three seasons of Arrested Development. Where as the Bluths were creating a hyper self-referential culture mildly poking fun at family sit-coms, Jane the Virgin is doing the same thing for telenovelas. You could probably jump in at any point in this show and laugh, but watching from the beginning allows you to become hip to the show’s superbly well-written joke culture. These actors seem to really be having fun with the material. Jamie Camil as Rogelio de la Vega, Jane’s insecure, narcissistic, eccentric, pretty boy, long lost biological father, is infectious in his enthusiasm for being a caricature. And if someone told me I could marry Gina Rodriguez (Jane) right now, without ever knowing her, I’d go buy a ring.

9. Fargo Season 2

With season 1 of Fargo, Noah Hawley effectively told a very Coen Brothers-esque story in the Coens-created world of Fargo. There was the hapless and incompetent crime spree of Lester Nygaard (Martin Freeman), a stand-in for William H. Macy’s character in the film. There was the Frances McDormand-ringing Molly Solverson (Allison Tolman). He even threw in an Anton Chigurh-like, supreme evil demon in the form of Lorne Malvo (Billy Bob Thornton). Season 2 has kept the Coens references intact. There is still hapless crime spreeing with the Blumqvist couple (Jesse Plemons and a remarkably unhinged Kirsten Dunst). But he has also done something that the Coens have never really sought to achieve: telling a wide-reaching epic crime tale (you could argue they did so in Miller’s Crossing, but that film still felt comparatively small). However reductive it may be to call season 2 of Fargo Coens meets Scorsese, it’s not all that inaccurate. There is the stylized brutal violence. There are small time characters with big time aspirations. There are troves of major characters killed off. Ultimately, I think season 2 surpassed its predecessor, in that it is a season I want to watch again, immediately. Props to FX for giving this show the money it needs to work; its multiple shoot-outs are the best action TV has seen not on the aforementioned ‘Banshee.’

10. Jessica Jones Season 1

You are about to start seeing some major Netflix love, and they are undoubtedly the best “network” around right now. Though network staples like Orange is the New Black and House of Cards have gotten weaker with seasons, they introduced an amazing 10 new shows this year, made even more amazing by the fact that even the worst of them are still kind of good. Cary Fukunaga even used the network to release his poetically brutal film Beast of No Nation, one of the best of the year sans question. So yeah, “Netflix and chill” has never been as tempting a pickup line as it is now. It took me four episodes to lock into Jessica Jones. When the show gets going, it soars. Never has comic material felt so adult. Kristyen Ritter's performance as the supernaturally strong Jessica is pained and sexy and magnetic, and it holds the greatest comic villain of all time in Killgrave (David Tennant). Ultron is a goddamn animated machine voiced by James Spader. Killgrave is a suave British man who is a mind controlling and victim-blaming rapist. Jessica Jones poses the idea that however convenient some kind of superpower would be, we still wouldn’t be able to escape our human problems. Jessica is damaged, but she’s courageous enough to take on her damage. The show is hopeful while still being supremely dark.

11. You're the Worst Season 2

Stephen Falk’s Los Angeles-set tale of millennial narcissistic love is the most important comedy on TV. Following asshole novelist Jimmy (Chris Geere) and mean streaked publicist Gretchen (Aya Cash) as they fall in love with each other in spite of themselves is resonant in ways that few shows are. How many of us have fallen in love when we expected to fall in love? That isn’t how it works. The show’s second season added real stakes to the relationship with the revelation of Gretchen’s crippling manic depression and Jimmy’s misguided attempts to save her from the disorder. Mental illness has never really been portrayed in as real a way on TV, and anyone that has loved someone that has suffered in this kind of way might have trouble getting through the season’s later episodes. No other show has ever hit me on such a deep emotional level while still making me laugh all the time. Despite its dismal ratings, FX has given the go-ahead for season 3. God bless that fucking network!

12. Broad City Season 2

Broad City’s second season featured four of its funniest episodes ever opening it, and then six or so less funny episodes. That being said, Ilana Glazer and Abbi Jacobsen are still telling the funniest stories on TV by a wide margin. More than that, no other show is accurately portraying what it means to be young and living in New York these days like these girls do. Are they getting by? Do they pay rent? We don’t know, but we know that a lot of us aren’t getting by in any stretch of the imagination. But the city still remains a pretty intoxicating and stupid fun place to be, so we stay. The only thing there really is to worry about is turning 30, by which point I hope Broad City will still be telling these rip-roaringly funny episodes.

13. The Knick Season 2

Stephen Soderbergh’s work on The Knick speaks to my aesthetics-oriented mind. The show, shot digitally, is gorgeous. The sets, re-creating early 20th Century Manhattan, are incredibly realized. Even on its sunniest of days, the show looks muted, harsh, cold. It shouldn’t look any different. The series captures what it feels like to live in a city where anyone not filthy with old money can’t expect to live past age 40. You can feel the desperation in each of Soderbergh’s athletic camera angles and on the faces of its remarkable cast. It is also about obsession, making it the perfect pseudo career-reviving role for the wonderful actor that is Clive Owen. As Dr. John Thackery, Owen exudes a man that is both kept alive and internally destroyed by obsession. Season 2 starts with Owen kicking both heroin and cocaine after leaving an institution that used heroin to treat cocaine addiction. He stays clean for a bit, only to realize that if he uses cocaine and heroin together he can counteract and accentuate the effects of both drugs, allowing him to both dive back into his groundbreaking surgical research and undoubtedly feel pretty groovy. Thackery becomes obsessed with the idea that if addiction is a disease, it can be cured by the modern medicine that he is helping forge. This hopeful self-deception keeps him going for a time. In that time he is also able to cure Syphilis, making a case for the merits of obsession. That’s the point, The Knick never passes judgement on characters, it allows them to make mistakes and rectify those mistakes, or not. No other period piece feels this contemporary.

14. Master of None Season 1

For some reason, I have had multiple run-ins with Aziz Ansari, and my opinion has changed about him time and time again. The first time I met him was after winning tickets to see him perform standup on Cape Cod by answering Parks and Rec trivia correctly on a local radio station. Aziz popped into to a townie bar the night before, and drunk, I freaked out and approached him. He was, well, quite cold. Though I loved him on Human Giant and early seasons of Parcs and Rec, my opinion of his comedy lessened as it did with him as a person. But I was shocked by how good Master of None was, revealing an Aziz that finally feels at peace with his success and being in his own skin. The show’s artistry lies in the mundane. By merely putting a handsome Asian actor in the stud role usually reserved for a white guy, he reveals so much of what is wrong with Hollywood casting. I know I shouldn’t feel surprised, and yet I do all the same. Whether Aziz knew this or not writing, I have no way to tell, but he seems far too intelligent a writer and a person to be completely ignorant to the impact this show would have. Two weeks ago, I ran into Aziz again on the subway when I happened to be listening to him speak about the show with Marc Maron on the WTF podcast. I told Aziz I was doing so, and congrats on the show. This time he greeted my reception with a warm smile and a, “Thanks man, so glad you like it.” Success isn’t an easy thing to get used to, but Aziz has definitely entered into the mature phase of his career.

15. Narcos Season 1

Narcos has problems, including but not limited to its thinly drawn out lead Boyd Holbrook as DEA Agent Steve Murphy and its stretches in tedium. But it still feels like something of a triumph for a narrative television show. The story of Pablo Escobar is massive and let’s face it, fucking crazy. Narcos was able to tell this story, have it make sense, and still keep it a lean 10 episodes. Its showrunner, Brazillian filmmaker José Padilha, could teach all of Hollywood something about editing. The show is sequenced like a music video, with short scenes rolling into one another in strong and linear manner. The Escobar has been attempted on film before, but it needed 10 hours to really flesh out the mania of this whole episode in history. We also need to praise Wagner Moura’s portrayal of Escobar. Though the actor physically resembles the drug lord, that’s hardly all that made him fit for the part. Moura captures Escobar’s unflinching charisma and magnetic self-confidence, as well as his unbridled menace, paranoia, and psychopathy. This is not a sympathetic portrayal; it is more in line with Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s depiction of Escobar as a manic monster in his brilliant work of non-fiction, News of a Kidnapping. And yet, he still feels very human. I am very curious what they will do with future seasons of this show, as season 1 takes us from Escobar’s smuggler origins to the burning of his house by American and Columbian forces. That’s almost 20 years of story in 10 episodes. Escobar was only alive another year following that episode, and yet this show presumably has many episodes left. Can they make this transition?

Honorable Mentions

If I was judging shows merely by central performances, Bloodline would make list through the sheer virtuosity of Ben Mendelsohn, whose Danny Rabourn elicited sympathy and disgust in equal measures. But the show’s occasional preposterous dialog and horrible ending kept it off my favorites. Daredevil, despite some noticeable stupidity, did well at setting up this gritty and adult Marvel world Netflix hopes to make magic out of. Though I left it off due to being non-fiction, HBO’s The Jinx was surely one of the most fascinating things on television this year, culminating with serial murderer and all-around creepy fucking guy Robert Durst incriminating himself while mic’d up in a bathroom and muttering evil shit to himself. The Good Wife has finally started to weaken in quality, mainly due to unforeseen circumstances like Julianna Margulies (Alicia Florrick) and Archie Panjabi (Kalinda Shwarma) refusing to work together. It has rebounded in its seventh season though, and remains far and away one of the best things on primetime network television. Marc Maron is one of my personal heroes, and while I enjoyed the third season of his titular AMC series, it felt like a down step from his brilliant second season. Also, Louis CK’s Louie, which for four years has been a perennial favorite of mine, also seemed to be running out of material. Now that Louis is one of Hollywood’s most powerful comedians, perhaps he is running out of the existential dread that made Louie a bonafide Nietzsche-ian dread fest, but with laughs. I also really like The Affair, even if I’m aware it’s not a totally stellar show. Must be the sex.


Text by Adam Lehrer


Your Ultimate Art Basel Miami Detox Guide by Tea Hacic

Miami Art Basel is that magical time once a year, when the young and fabulous (and their sugar daddies) travel to paradise to see art and sleep with art dealers. Miami Art Basel is where editors brag about their fair trade hemp sandals while snorting cocaine that was brought into the country by a pregnant teenager.

Miami Art Basel is where wet dreams come true and creative dreams are killed by two girls stabbing each other and therefore stealing attention from your performance art piece (dancing in leotards is a little 2008, tbh). 

Some people do look at art at Art Basel, because it’s their job to and because it’s raining too hard outside to say “screw it, I’ll get fired for the sake of a tan.”

But for those of us who don’t know the difference between digital collages and foam sculptures, the week  of Miami Art Basel was an excuse to go Hard As Hell (or HAH!) before the holy holidays. For those of us #blessed enough to be there, half the fun was making our Instagram followers who aren’t #blessed jealous of our poolside lounging. But the fun doesn’t have to end! The only thing your followers will hate more than seeing you enjoying Miami is seeing you bounce back afterwards.

photo by @yulzina

 

POST META MIAMI ART BASEL DETOX :

1) SPIRITUAL DISCOVERY
All that gossiping about those girls dressed like that at the Edition hotel wasn’t good for your soul. Hearing what your gay friends did at Twist (without you?!) didn’t feed your spirit. Name dropping Millie Brown to get free K wasn’t good for your Karma. Now that you’re home, spend some quality time on YOU, searching for an answer deep within…like, where in the deep web can one find leaked pictures of Saint West?

2) SELF-LOVE

Your face is disgusting. Come to terms with it. Say it out loud, whisper it in a mirror, yell it at the sky. Admit it: you got so wasted at that MoMa PS1 party that you spent half the night pitching articles to the Wall Street Journal! (What’s the Wall Street Journal Doing at Basel? should have been one of them). In addition to alcohol poisoning, your skin is full of chlorine because you thought it would be fabulous to take your dress off and jump into the pool at the Versace Mansion party in the middle of the afternoon.

You were topless in front of all those New York Kids! And what did they do? They ignored you, the same way they do at Up&Down…because they were all on their phones, snapping pics of their cleavage and asking their moms to send more cash. On top of all that, falling asleep on someone’s Juicy Couture top (now un-ironic…thanks, VFILES!) couldn’t be good for your pores. I hear turmeric helps clear skin but I also hear it’s disgusting. Someone told me to crush Aspirin and make a face mask out of that and I would if I hadn’t stuffed my last painkillers in every orifice to try and ease my headaches. An easier option? Cover your brand new pimples in crystals instead. Willow Smith says they have healing powers. I hope she means the plastic ones…

3) EYES WIDE SHUT

Avoid all art!! Your eyes need a break from “made from scratch” Photoshop, sculptures with phone references and painted soft porn.

Ok, your goal was to go HAH! but you accidentally caught some art when you finally couldn’t bare another day cooped inside the Soho House…it started to feel wrong, as if outside the El Nino apocalypse were taking place and you were in a group of select privileged people who were chosen to survive it.

 

Even Lebron James had to flee that place! (Well, he left Soho House only when your friend started taking pics of him--what saved her from arrest were the butt pics Lebron’s bodyguard found on her phone when deleting all evidence of his employer’s sneaky whereabouts).

4) SWEAT IT OUT

All that dancing in heels and falling in sand took a toll on your muscles. Get some good stretching done while lying on your belly, arms reached out in front of you, holding your phone, deleting the numbers you picked up from Le Baron at Delano. (Why was everyone French there? Why are French men so slutty with their digits?)

5) NOURISH THYSELF

You probably ate a lot of Cuban Sandwiches, Haitian hangover helpers and buttery brunch bullshit…my body is still hurting from the egg salad I ate at the Toilet Paper lounge at the UNTITLED fair, which was basically just a pint of mayonnaise. This post-Basel week, only eat nourishing and cleansing things your body and bowels will thank you for. Here’s what your diet should look like:

Breakfast:

Happiness Smoothie (MDMA comedown recipe)

Lunch:

A handful of sprouts sprinkled over gluten-free toast, topped off by a laxative.

Dinner:
A Bloody Mary, 12 oysters your Tinder Date will pay for, a handful of pita chips from the samples section of Whole Foods and a taco from a truck near the Bedford Stop™

If none of that helps, just post a throwback pic from the beach and write “miss u” .


Text by Tea Hacic. Follow Tea on Instagram here. Follow Autre Magazine: @AUTREMAGAZINE



[FRIDAY PLAYLIST] The Best Hip Hop Tracks Of 2015

I was speaking with Lily Mercer, Editor-in-Chief of the excellent UK-based Hip-Hop lifestyle magazine VIPER, about the idea of the “Golden Age of Hip-Hop.” This period, often referred to as the years between the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, has only been referred to as such in retrospect. When Wu Tang dropped 36 chambers and Biggie dropped Ready to Die and Nas dropped Illmatic and Public Enemy dropped ‘Fear of a Black Planet’ and Ice Cube dropped Amerikkkaz Most Wanted and 2pac dropped 2pacalypse Now, no critic said, “Fuck, I think we are living in the Golden Age of this Rap shit.”

That makes it even the more ironic now that people are so nostalgic for the last Golden Age that they are not realizing that we are living in our OWN GOLDEN AGE. I 100 percent believe that 2015 has been a landmark year for Hip-Hop. We have gotten massive releases from the world’s biggest stars: Drake, Future, Rocky, etc..; to experimental records from some of the game’s most genre-bending weirdos: Le1f, Milo, Oddisee, etc.

Vince Staples said in an interview this year that hip-hop is the most important contemporary art form. I tend to agree with him. Aside from the fact that spoken word poetry over music genre-bending beats is one of the most winning music formulas the world has ever seen, no other “artist” can really match the reach that rap stars have. Now that Hip-hop is starting to represent more than one type of background and perspective (Women, gays) it’s entering a new phase of sonic and thematic maturity.

Read up on the tracks below...

1. Earl Sweatshirt, I Don’t Like Shit I Don’t Go Outside, Track: "DNA"

The Odd Future collective has outgrown each other. Frank Ocean has become a generational icon. Tyler has diversified into a human brand. And Earl Sweatshirt has become the best rapper on Earth. Sony really fucked Earl on this one, releasing I Don’t Like Shit I Don’t Go Outside on iTunes with no prior promotion. That meant that heads had a new Earl record they didn’t know about for a couple of days, and the record didn’t have near the cultural impact that it should have had. The record is sparser than his previous release Doris, but even more polished in the wordplay. He is most certainly a millennial rapper, heeding influence to everything from early Eminem and MF Doom. In a year fat with great rap records, this one I consistently went back to.

2. Drake, If You’re Reading This It’s Too Late, Track: "Legend"

Drake owned 2015 from February onward: Hotline Bling, Meek Mill destruction, OVO X Jordan. And it all started with this record. It seems like Drake lost some of his fan boys with this disc that found him spit a bit more aggressive and lacking some of the Cure-ish melancholy “sad king” sounds from his earlier records. But that got me thinking. I once had a journalism professor who worked for EW and he said the coolest celebs were always the most famous ones: your Robert Downey, Jr’s, Brad Pitt’s, Clooney’s. Guys that are so fucking famous they are just used to people freaking out on them and no how to be cool about it. If You’re Reading This… has Drake acknowledging that he’s untouchable. If he died, he’d be a legend. And fuck if that isn’t the hottest opening hook I’ve ever heard.

3. Dr. Yen Lo, Days with Dr. Yen Lo, Track: "Day 1125"

Ka keeps the spirit of Brooklyn alive. With Night’s Gambit, he established himself as the logical successor to GZA as an MC that was equally meditative and streetwise. His whispered rhymes sometimes come at you more as a lullaby than street poetry. His Dr. Yen Lo project is collaboration with producer Preservation, perhaps previously best known for his work with Mos Def. The album finds them playing with the themes of the Manchurian Candidate. As with all Ka releases, it’s extremely minimal, pulling just the right bass line to keep a weed clouded head bopping ever so slowly. Day 11215 is a bit of an outlier on the album, with a beautiful guitar melody shimmering under Ka’s observations. It’s a shame that hip-hop like this will never be bigger.

4. Kendrick Lamar, To Pimp a Butterfly, Track: "The Blacker the Berry"

Kendrick’s importance to contemporary culture has been discussed at length, and there’s not much for me to add to it. So I’ll talk about the music. When I first heard the new record, I respected that he pushing his sound outward to the land of free jazz and Parliament, but it wasn’t nearly as immediately addictive as m.A.A.d. city. That was probably a good thing. Not many artists get to international superstar status and get MORE experimental. Kendrick is bold. And this record grows on you until the point that you’ve realized that you listened to the damn thing over 20 times. The Blacker the Berry is still the best track, channeling the aggressive spirit of Kendrick’s hero Tupac Shakur and turning it inward. Kendrick is the protagonist and the antagonist.

5. Vince Staples, Summertime ’06, Track: "Jump off the Roof"

I saw Vince Staples twice this year: once opening for Run the Jewels on the Williamsburg waterfront, and once at the Rocky/Tyler extravaganza. He was incendiary both times. No other artist, except for Run the Jewels most likely, right now is packing such a club banging intensity while espousing revolutionary thought. Staples is a wickedly smart kid and his interviews are as enjoyable to read, as his music is to listen to. He can also get personal with the best of them, as in ‘Jump of the Roof’ where he ponders whether or not his vices are taking over his life.

6. Future, DS2, Track: "The Percocet and Stripper Joint"

I always have liked Future, without taking him overtly serious. That changed in 2014, with the Monster mixtape. He really has developed a singular style. After his split from fiancé Ciara he has started to question his inflated bravado. Celebratory songs of drugs and sex have turned into self-chastising tails of addiction and heartbreak. This was undoubtedly the biggest year of his career, between DS2 and What a Time to be Alive with Drake. I feel like a lot of heads dismiss Auto-Tuners. They shouldn’t. It’s an instrument, a tool. And Future has reached a new level of artistry with it at his arsenal.

7. A$AP Rocky, AT.LONG.LAST.A$AP, Track: "Electric Body (ft. Schoolboy Q)"

Though Rocky is massively popular, he seems to get overlooked critically. On Long.Live.A$AP; perhaps deservedly so. But Rocky both went back to what we fell in love with him in the first place for, anthemic fashion gangsta club tracks, AND expanded his sound, with psychedelic guitar drenched beats and splashes of color. He’s still not the best rapper out there, but he’s gotten a fuckload better, and his music is just so fun to listen to. This was the best driving record of the year. Schoolboy Q and Rocky bring out the best of each other on Electric Body, if you can handle the unabashed misogyny.

8. Bodega Bamz, Sidewalk Exec, Track: "Bring em Out (featuring Flatbush Zombies)"

The Flatbush Zombies and A$AP-affiliated Bodega Bamz, of Spanish Harlem, is an integral piece of the New York Hip-Hop puzzle, but everybody sleeps. ‘Sidewalk Exec’ pays homage to the horrorcore of yesteryear: Geto Boys, early Three 6 Mafia. Produced by V-Don, Sidewalk Exec plays out as both foreboding and at times terrifying.

9. Le1f, Riot Boi, Track: "Koi"

People had been waiting for this one for a while, and Le1f did not disappoint. As openly gay man in hip-hop, there was bound to be automatic interest in Le1f from the art crowds, but he has won over hip-hop crowds almost just as easily. His flow is truly one of a kind, like a more flamboyant Skeptic. He also takes the trap genre to its logical conclusion, incorporating near-cheesy happy hardcore beats into his record that are banged so recklessly joyous that the sound is undeniable.

10. Milo, So the Flies Don’t Come, Track: "An Encyclopedia"

Born of the Los Angeles alt-rap club, Hellfyre Club (is the Nick Tosches reference purposeful?), Milo released his most interested record yet with So the Flies Don’t Come. His beats are barely beats. His rhymes are nearly spoken word. But everything is so oft-kilter and chalk full of pop cultural references that everything comes together full circle. He delivers lines like, “People of Color coloring,” in an onslaught of repetition. His music gets under your skin.

11. Young Thug, Barter 6, Track: "Numbers"

As he appears naked in a Sandy Kim photograph on the cover of his record, it’s clear that Young Thug is a pop star for the millennial art generation. It doesn’t matter that his lyrics don’t make sense. He oozes soul and conviction. He is hyper-conscious of image errs towards performance art. When he edits himself, he also has songs. The Barter 6 is Thug’s most realized effort yet. Kanye needs to get with this kid and teach him how to hone that zaniness.

12. Oddisee, The Good Fight, First Choice

Like Rakim and A Tribe Called Quest before him, Oddisee is interested in the entirety of black American music history. His beats reference soul, jazz, and his hip-hop forebears. What I find most fascinating about him is his ability to weave his rhymes into complex melodies. His music sounds undeniably tight, much like a jazz collective. It’s a total interplay between voice and music.

13. Freddie Gibbs, Shadow of a Doubt, Track: "Narcos"

Gangsta Gibbs’ 2014 collaboration with Madlib, Pinata, was my favorite hip-hop record of 2014. Then last week he dropped another late-year instant classic with Shadow of a Doubt. Gibbs is one of the only MCs in the world that could accurately be labeled as both a coke rapper and socially conscious. His tales of gangbanging aren’t exploitative. They are journalistic. He offers a window into a world in hopes that we can gain a better understanding of it. On Narcos, he tells us that his woman can no longer stand his lifestyle, but he is addicted to it. He loves it. The sentiment is shocking and sad. He also has the best voice in rap. Period. Gibbs forever.

14. Rich Homie Quan, If You Ever Think I Will Stop Going in Ask Rr, Track: "Stupid Me"

How is Quan faring in the battle for Atlanta? Pretty good, I would say. His record If You Ever Think… revealed a new clarity in Quan’s vision. He is introducing a slew of new vocal techniques to pop music. He stays on beat more than Thug. He’s less experimental (if that’s the right word?). Not a perfect record, but promising nonetheless.

15. Meek Mill, Dreams Worth More than Money, Track: "Lord Knows (featuring Tory Lanez)"

Meek fucking Mill. This should have been your year! From its first track Lord Knows, it was clear that Mill was out for blood. No opener this year set the pace for such a bone-shattering album. He just went out for the wrong blood. Drake proved untouchable when Mill challenged him earlier this year, stomping on Meek with two perfect diss tracks. That will be Mill’s 2015 story. But, if you just focus on this record, then Meek won. Plus he gets to have sex with Nicki Minaj. Life can’t be that bad, right? (better than mine anyways)

16. White Boiz, Neighborhood Wonderful, Track: "Main St. (featuring Earl Leon’ne)"

White Boiz aren’t white boys. It’s actually a collaboration between MC Strong Arm Steady producer Star-Ra who came together for this Stones Throw-released Neighborhood Wonderful. The result is a record that channels the galactic spirit of Sun Ra as filtered through Flying Lotus and the meditative qualities of early Mos Def. Though experimental, the record is also quite accessible. It plays like a conversation between the two artists. A conversation that is important to listen to.

17. Quelle Chris, Innocent Country, Track: "Well Running Deep"

Quelle Chris is 13 fucking records into his career, and people still have no clue who he is. He really doesn’t care though, “As artists and musicians, we lost a lot of shit,” he said in an interview with Hip-hopDX, “We sacrifice everything to barely make anything while giving our whole life to people.” Chris makes real hip-hop at the expense of financial security. Generally, he’s pretty funny. On Innocent Country, he gets contemplative. He contemplates why he does what he does and why he is who he is. He never fully realizes his own ideas, and that makes him more interesting to listen to. While we try and figure out what he’s talking about, Quelle is still trying to figure out what he’s trying to talk about. Humanity runs deep in his rhymes.

18. Future Brown, Future Brown, Track: "Talkin Bandz"

I almost forgot about this one. I wasn’t that excited about this record when it came out, but Fatima Al Qadiri and crew grow on you. Warp Records artists, from OG gods Aphex Twin to modern abstract club cultists like Arca, have always paid heed to hip-hop music. Future Brown outwardly explores that connection. In the Internet culture, the kids who are out frying their skulls on Molly in packed clubs to dance music are often the same kids smoking weed in front of their computers all day listening to ‘90s hip-hop. Future Brown comes off as a conceptual project exploring that very mindset.

19. Travi$ Scott, Rodeo, Track: "Piss on ya’ Grave (featuring Kanye West)"

I have so many friends that hate Travi$. In some ways, I see their points. He isn’t the strongest lyricist and he seems more ready-made for fame than he seems willing to develop as an artist. But I found myself seduced Rodeo. It’s interesting to finally hear the Yeezus effect loud and clear. Kanye West once accurately told Zayn Lowe that rappers are the new rock stars, from the sounds to the fame to the fashions. Scott is an immediate rock star. Piss on ya’ Grave, the Kanye collab that serves as the album’s strongest track, takes a Hendrix riff and reappropriates it for a rap star generation.

20. Big Sean, Dark Sky Paradise, Track: "All Your Fault (featuring Kanye West)"

Sean is always going to be over-shadowed by his contemporaries. He lacks Kendrick's lyrical skill, Drake’s emotional resonance, and Kanye’s dominating personality. But when working with the right producers, he does pop-rap as good as anyone. Any other year Dark Sky Paradise would have been one of the biggest releases around. It’s undeniably listenable and a gigantic step up in quality from anything Sean has done previously. He’s also a million times better than J. Cole, but heads seem to hero worship J. Cole until no tomorrow while Sean is left in the G.O.O.D. Music shadow.

Bonus: Vic Mensa featuring Kanye West ‘U Mad Ha’

Though neither artists had full-lengths in 2015, both had strong years. Mensa is the heir apparent to Kanye’s legacy: he channels the grit of the South Side of Chicago while reaching for higher art aspirations. In a recent video, he revealed himself as political, fighting for the justice of Laquan McDonald. And while Kanye had no new record, 2015 still was one of the biggest years of his life. It was the year that the fashion industry finally had to take him seriously, as he released his deconstructed Helmut Lang-channeling military garb with Adidas, and three of the best sneakers ever made. On top of that, he got an honorary doctorate and gave the best VMAs speech ever. On ‘U Mad Ha,’ both artists come together for what will surely prove to be an interesting 2016.


Text and Playlist by Adam Lehrer




Top 5 Fashion Retrospectives and Exhibitions Around the World

From New York to the Netherlands, from legendary big-names and up-and-coming innovators, here are our picks for the best fashion retrospectives and exhibitions going on right now:

1.

The Circle brings together garments from the archives of legendary designers in conversation about the Celtic roots of glamour. Presented by Hackney’s Live Archives, the exhibition features work by Margiela, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, and more. The Circle will run until December 5 at Live Archives, London.

2.

Viva Moschino! is the first retrospective on the brilliantly exuberant Franco Moschino. Featuring approximately 40 ensembles and accessories from 1983-1994, the retrospective highlights both Moschino’s resistance to the industry norm (read: the famous “Waist of Money” jacket) and his eloquent craftsmanship. Viva Moschino! is on view now until April 2016 at the Mint Museum, Charlotte, North Carolina.

3.

Denim: Fashion’s Frontier at FIT explores how denim evolved from dude ranch wear to a staple of high fashion. The comprehensive exhibition features denim pieces from Levi Strauss and Woodstock to Gucci and Fiorucci. Denim: Fashion’s Frontier is on view now until May 2016 at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York.

4.

Utopian Bodies explores how fashion can be used to imagine a better future. Featuring legends like John Galliano (for Dior) and Prada as well as newcomers like Claire Barrow, the exhibition is a “visual feast” of the imaginative fashion world. Utopian Bodies will be on view until February 2016 at Liljevalchs Gallery, Liljevalchs, Stockholm.

5.

The Future of Fashion Is Now looks at new, innovation work from contemporary, up-and-coming designers around the world. Works include sustainable laces grown from strawberry plants (by UK designer Carole Collet) and a solar-panel jacket that charges your phone while you wear it (Pauline van Dongen). See the next generation of designers until January 18th at Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam, the Netherlands.


Text by Keely Shinners


Patricia Field Brings Her Sartorial Genius to A Dover Street Market Holiday Gift Shop

Text by Adam Lehrer

Patricia Field is best known to a certain generation of women as the coveted costume designer behind the looks of Carrie Bradshaw, but she means infinitely more to the convergence of fashion with downtown New York’s art world. Since the 1980s when she held exhibitions for the budding artists Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat at her East Village boutique, Field has been a champion of both New York grown artists and fashion designers. She has truly one of the most unique eyes in the world. “I look for the same thing in art that I look for in fashion,” says Field. “It’s chemical. I see it, I like it, and I go for it.”

It is that eye that is being celebrated at Dover Street Market with a Patricia Field-curated gift shop featuring one of a kind wearable art pieces by Field’s favorite artists and designers and a selection of accessories, jewelry, and apparel at a more accessible price point.

For the Dover Street Market installation, Field has selected designers from a pool of artists that she worked with in the ‘80s as well as contemporary artists that she believes owe a debt to the art movement of the ‘80s. Leading the charge is New York-based artist Scooter LaForge. LaForge has been designing and creating wearable art works for Field’s boutique for five years now, likening his work in garments to Robert Rauschenberg’s ‘Combines,’ in that he uses every material he can get his hands on to bring the garments into fruition. His prints have also been used by Antwerp 6 Belgian menswear designer Walter Van Bierendonck. “I always dreamed of doing a collaboration with Pat,” says LaForge. “I met Pat in a nightclub and sold her some shirts. Things took off from there.”

Other artists who will have garments at the DSM Christmas Gift shop include surrealist film animator Suzan Pitt, Underground designer Apostolos Mitropoulous, leftist fashion designer G-Lish, one-of-a-kind accessories designer Badacious, New York-based artist and conceptual fashion designer best known for her hat designs Heidi Lee, and designer and stylist David Dalrymple. All of these designers will offer their own takes on wearable art pieces all of which will be handmade and one-of-a-kind. “It’s conceptual couture,” says LaForge of wearable art’s difference with fashion. “As long as it wasn’t made in a factory and there is only one out there, it’s wearable art.”

While so many of us are drawn to garments based on the labels they carry, whether it be Raf Simons or Alexander McQueen, LaForge is struck by Field’s ability to connect with garments based on her own emotions as opposed to constructs created by brands. “She doesn’t care if it was made by Galliano or some kid in the street,” says LaForge. “She only looks at clothes, and if they speak to her she’ll love it.”

Field tapped interior designer Benjamin Noriega-Ortiz to design the space in which the garments will inhabit, seeing his aesthetic as a natural home for the LaForge-described “controlled chaos” of Field’s vision. “I find that Scooter and Benjamin are parallel in their senses of humor,” says Field. “There is a certain frivolity that is present in Benjamin’s work.”

There are a lot of creative minds at work in this installation. Never mind all the artists designing garments for the space, but of course DSM and Comme des Garcons head honcho Rei Kawakubo has final approval over every installation AND every garment that appears in Dover Street Market. But make no mistake: this installation is the brain trust of Patricia Field in every sense. “It’s all Pat Fields all the time,” says LaForge. “It’s all about her. I thought it was important to have the essence of Pat Fields in the pop-up shop. I thought it was important for people to know what she finds to be important and what she believes in right now. She’s like a modern day Peggy Guggenheim.”

Field has one of the most enviable creative careers New York has ever seen. Whether designing clothes for her own store or for movies and television or shining spotlight on her favorite artists and designers, she is always looking to expand her creative palette. The Dover Street Market Holiday Gift Shop is a new and exciting challenge. “The best way for me to continue being happy is to be creative,” says Field. “Subconsciously, I keep trying new things, and this keeps life exciting.”


The installation opens tonight, December 3rd. Dover Street Market New York is located at 160 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016


A Very Autre Thanksgiving Playlist Featuring Peaches, Bowie, and More

Text by Adam Lehrer

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Where will you be eating today? Family? Friends? Both? To commemorate the holiday we put together this playlist counting down a slew of songs that express gratitude to one thing or another. Leonard Cohen and Jeff Buckley's versions of 'Hallelujah' both praise the state of existing in this world. Lou Reed is grateful for heroin in this version of the Velvet Underground's 'Heroin.' Everyone is thankful for sex, and in 'Fuck the Pain Away' Peaches illuminates on the healing powers of rough sex while weird hair R&B singer Sisqo is merely thankful for the all mighty thong. On the more poignant end of the playlist is Stevie Wonder, whose track off 'Innervisions,' 'Living for the City,' express love and thanks for his parents. Bowie says thank you to all the heroes out there where ever they may be. Happy thanksgiving, and stay thankful.

The Best Feminist Memoirs of 2015

The political and social landscape of 2015 inspired need for both self-reflection and a call to action. This year, we saw the release of beautiful new memoirs by feminist icons of the past few decades—Patti Smith, Gloria Steinem, Janet Mock, and more—tackling issues of women’s rights, self-empowerment, and art itself. Here are some of my favorite feminist memoirs from the past year, along with some additional must-read memoirs:

1. M Train by Patti Smith

Everyone’s favorite punk poet laureate gives us a glimpse of her daily wanderings as an aging artist, confronting mortality, loss, and the ephemerality of experience with honesty and grace. Purchase here.

2. My Life on the Road by Gloria Steinem

The icon of second wave feminism reflects on her nomadic upbringing and how travel has continuously inspired her to keep asking questions, keep listening, and above all, keep moving. Find it here.

3. Girl in a Band by Kim Gordon

At once unpleasantly gritty and remarkably beautiful, Gordon’s memoir covers everything from growing up with a mentally ill older brother, to the making of those famous Sonic Youth albums, to her distaste for Lana Del Rey. Buy it here.

4. Not That Kind of Girl by Lena Dunham

Dunham has often been called the voice (or a voice) of the millennial generation, and her self-exposing memoir is of no exception. Not That Kind of Girl is full of confessions and self-reflections on topics such as ovarian cysts and a Puerto Rican boyfriend with a Comic Sans tattoo. Check it out.

5. How To Be a Woman by Caitlin Moran

Piecing together social observations and personal experiences, Moran sheds new light and humor on the fight for women’s empowerment and gender equality. Purchase here.

6. Bossypants by Tina Fey

Half-memoir and half-comedy sketch, Fey explores the humor of female vulnerability and the bittersweet power of being a woman in comedy at the top her game. Buy it here.

7. Yes Please by Amy Poehler

Poehler’s memoir-ish book is full of both self-empowerment revelations and crippling difficulty of writing the book itself, told in a scattered series of narratives that are at once funny and endearing. Read it here.

8. I Am Malala: The Girl Who Stood Up for Education and Was Shot by the Taliban by Malala Yousafzai

Malala Yousafzai is a force. Her memoir is powerful, not just for its vivid drama, but also for its exigent call for girls’ right to education worldwide. Check it out.

9. #Girlboss by Sofia Amoruso

The CEO of Nastygal takes us on her journey towards success and self-empowerment. Purchase here.

10. Redefining Realness by Janet Mock

In a world where very few memoirs by trans women of color exist, Janet Mock offers a beautiful and compelling glimpse into her intellectual journey to self-actualization, happiness, and success. Check it out here.


Text by Lucia Ribisi. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE


[FRIDAY PLAYLIST] Arca's Mind Blow Of A New Record Will Have You Taking Personal Inventory

Communication by means of social media and technology can no longer be argued as being a less expressive mode of communication than any other. It’s quite interesting that people are using these modes of communication to, for lack of a better term, pour their hearts out. What else is a Pinterest page other than a digital bearing of the soul? “This is who I am,” is what we communicate, and we do so through image and curation of content just as much as we do through the written word.

Perhaps this is why Venezuela-born wunderkind electronic music producer Arca feels like one of the most important artists on planet Earth after just two solo records. On 2014’s ‘Xen,’ Arca developed a musical language that could be abrasive and sentimental, spiritual and atheist, and masculine and feminine all at once. Though good electronic music has never been devoid of emotion (can you honestly tell me you feel nothing listening to Brian Eno’s ‘Music for Airports’ or Aphex Twin’s ‘Selected Ambient Works Vol.2’ or LFO’s ‘Frequencies?’), it doesn’t seem that electronic music has ever been made with the intention of expression as such an obvious ambition.

Arca’s newest full-length ‘Sinner’ feels like an even more realized effort than ‘Xen’ and after only a few listens I can already argue it’s one of the year’s best releases in an extraordinarily strong year for new tunes. Arca’s millennial approach (that must have certainly been honed as being part of Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air’s GHETTO GOTHIK parties in which industrial music from the ‘80s and Houston rap were played in equal measure) finds Arca digging deep into his soul. The music is danceable, but dancing is not its ultimate conceptual purpose. It’s about looking within and taking personal inventory. Who am I? What do I like? Who do I like? These questions are asked throughout the record. Arca doesn’t need the written word to express himself. It’s all there in the sonics.

Arca’s aesthetic is clearly in high-demand. The man has of course been responsible for sounds on records of three of contemporary pop music’s most fascinating and experimental superstars: Kanye West, Bjork, and FKA Twigz. But it is in his music that Arca most defines himself.

In an article by Pitchfork, writer Phillip Sherburne deduced that Arca does seem to be the leader of a new aesthetic in electronic music along with artists like Rabit and Lotic. These artists are always weird, sometimes queer, and absolutely deconstruct what we assume electronic dance music is. With these Autre playlists, I have often dug up music that has been personally important to me in my own history. But the release of ‘Mutant’ has me thinking about the here and now. The artists on this playlist are some of the most important and culturally relevant artists working in any medium today. Hyperbole? You wish.

 
 

[REVIEW] Mark Bradford's 'Be Strong Boquan' at Hauser & Wirth Addresses Eighties Club Culture, the AIDS Epidemic and Cultural Taboos

text by Adam Lehrer

The color palette used by Los Angeles-based abstract painter Mark Bradford for the work in his stunning new show at Hauser & Wirth, Be Strong Boquan, is different than the palette that comes to mind when I think of his other work. While some paintings make strong use of the dark and austere colors most associated with his work, there are also bright pinks and yellows. Despite the vivaciousness of these colors, there is still a physical menace that emanates through them. Walking through the exhibit, I was reminded of that indescribable feeling that courses through your body just before you realize that you are full-blown sick: goosebumps on your arms, chills running through your spine, the inability to make a fist, a feeling of faintness.

The feeling elicited was not at all unintentional on the part of Bradford. Bradford has the uncanny ability to filter societal woes through abstracted images. In Be Strong Boquan, Bradford tackles issues personally important to him: society’s false representation of the queer identity, the brutality of the 1990s race riots in Los Angeles, and the AIDS epidemic in the early 1980s. The show seems emblematic of the fear of the deterioration of the body, and the militant efforts to destroy the bacteria and disease that infect the body.

Despite the heavy subject matter of his work, Bradford’s persona is anything but dark. Standing at about 6 ft. 5, Bradford has no problem talking about his work. In fact, he revels in it, and loves gauging the reactions of those that observe and examine it. He did just this the day of his opening. Walking a group of collectors, admirers, and journalists through the exhibition, Bradford illuminated on some of his conceptual choices for the show. These are some things I learned about Bradford.

Bradford harkened back to 1980s club culture for the show, capturing the exuberance of the scene, contrasted with the AIDS epidemic that was slowly, and later quickly, killing off the peoples that made the scene exuberant in the first place:

“In this show, maybe I was thinking about this space being the Roxy a little bit, but then I was also thinking about nightlife and what was on the horizon as far as the epidemic that was on the horizon, as in the AIDS epidemic. Interestingly enough, Hauser and Wirth kept all the roller skates from the Roxy and they shipped them all to my studio about a year ago and I kind of hung them from all the rafters and would roller skate around to find something abstracted in the social.”

When you walk into the exhibition, the first thing you will hear is the song‘Grateful’ by 1980s Disco performer Sylvester that is accompanying the piece ‘Deimos,’ a video installation. It gives you the feeling of the substances just starting to wear off and the lights going out at the club: the possibilities of the night coming to a screeching halt. Of course this is amplified when you realize the rest of the exhibition deals with possibility snuffed out by disease. Fitting then that the exuberant track is being performed by a musician who tragically lost his boyfriends to AIDS, neglected to get treatment himself out of devastation, and slowly saw his own body deteriorate.
“The song is ‘Grateful’ by Sylvester, I think Sylvester was in many ways ahead of its time. Anybody who lived through that time is grateful, I feel, just to be here.”

Though the exhibit does not explicitly depict the human body, the body is ominously present in each of the paintings and the sculpture.
“The marks that you see are cells that I looked at under a microscope that just became marks. The show does have to do with the body even though the body isn’t present. It’s more like a ghost body.”

He is interested in the time it can take for a monumental social plague, such as AIDS, for people to come together and speak out against the plague in a social setting. “With the AIDS crisis in the ‘80s, it was pure dying. It was almost political, God came down and brought this disease and it just wiped everyone out. In the ‘90s it started to get political. I’m interested in the military terms we use when it comes to things that deteriorate and infect the body. “We have to wipe this disease out.”

He has become interested in processes that involve waiting and time, particularly his stain paintings that make use of tracing:

“I used to work at a hair salon, and I used to trace the prices on the wall. Sometimes I reduce my palette. It’s like when you have a heavy meal so next you want to eat a salad and drink some tea. Sometimes I feel like my work can be so heady, so material. So I’ve been doing the stain paintings, where I use a reduced palette and it can become all about the trace and all about the times. You do the paintings in about a two-hour time. As this aged black paper, you pull it off, and it leaves traces. I like that even though it’s a very reduced palette, it has a lot of depth.”

The final piece in the exhibition, ‘Spiderman’ is a play on the black comedy best exemplified by Eddie Murphy in the 1980s. Murphy and other comedians often used homosexuality as joke material. The piece features video and the voice of an unseen comedian, a transgendered man. The piece forces us to confront our complicity in hate speech by laughing about dark jokes concerning Eazy E’s homosexuality (“Only Eazy-E can make AIDS gangsta,” says the unseen comedian) and the black community’s battle with AIDS. Bradford is interested in comedy’s ability to offend while simultaneously getting people to talk about uncomfortable issues.
“I remember watching Eddie Murphy’s ‘Delirious’ in the early 1980s. I wasn’t really interested in Eddie Murphy, really. But I’m always interested in the developing of the social contract. Like the “n” word. It is a part of the social contract now, but there was a time when it wasn’t taboo. When does something stop being taboo? I remember Eddie Murphy making jokes, “faggot look at my ass.” Everybody was just laughing! I thought if this is the early part of the AIDS epidemic, and this is now part of the social contract. What I often find is I like to turn comedy around. Like making the man the butt of the joke. I wanted to address social change. I do think there are things that just aren’t appropriate, like calling black women bitches and ho’s.”

Bradford’s work is compelling in its aesthetic beauty contrasted by its conceptual heaviness. He doesn’t know how to make art any other way.

“I’ve seen a lot of hard stuff in my life, and I’ve seen a lot of beautiful stuff in my life.”


Adam Lehrer is a writer, journalist, and art and fashion critic based in New York City. On top of being Autre’s fashion and art correspondent, he is also a regular contributor to Forbes Magazine. His unique interests in punk, hip hop, skateboarding and subculture have given him a distinctive, discerning eye and voice in the world of culture, et al. Oh, and he also loves The Sopranos. Follow him on Instagram: @adam102287

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[FRIDAY PLAYLIST] Impulse Records under Bob Thiele

I was reading Kurt Vile’s Baker’s Dozen column on the excellent UK-based music site The Quietus, and I was a little surprised to read him name numerous records by John Coltrane, Alice Coltrane, and Pharoah Sanders. When you listen to Kurt Vile, you are more likely to think of Neil Young, Bob Dylan’s collaboration with the Band ‘The Basement Tapes,’ or maybe even bands like Pavement. But his adoration of the spiritual jazz of the aforementioned musicians is testament to the strength of that music. Those musicians display influence on any musician that seeks to stretch a sound out. Coltrane and his brethren grew discontent with parameters, and considering how loose all forms of jazz are, they evidently were uncomfortable with ANY parameters. As a result, records ranging from Sonic Youth’s ‘Daydream Nation’ to Kendrick Lamar’s ‘To Pimp a Butterfly’ can draw connections to 1960s free jazz and spiritual jazz.

Interestingly enough, almost all of the Jazz records that Vile named in the column come from a specific record label, Impulse! Records, during a specific period the 1960s, and were all produced by one man, Bob Thiele. Thiele had remarkable foresight in the world of Jazz. When Coltrane initially began to display an interest in spiritualism and improvisation and created ‘A Love Supreme,’ many producers of the time would have balked. But Thiele was with ‘Trane the whole time. The result? ‘A Love Supreme’ sold a gargantuan 100,000 copies. Can you imagine a record as far out selling anything close to that in the modern era? No, it just can’t happen.

‘Trane’s spiritual jazz manifested further in later releases like ‘Ascension’ and ‘Interstellar’ space. He was both meddling in Free Jazz as well as the avant-garde. ‘Ascension’ is an astounding achievement; the only directions ‘Trane gave to his players, that included McCoy Tyner and Pharoah Sanders, were to end their solos with a crescendo. Sanders’ own ‘Tauhid’ was also a watershed moment for free jazz.

While Pharoah represented ‘Trane’s more Free Jazz leanings, his harpist wife Alice Coltrane manifested his interest in the spiritual and made some stunning albums with and without her husband. She incorporated Middle Eastern sounds that had nothing to do with jazz, but nevertheless created monumental walls of sound that can transfix a listener under the right circumstances.

Really, there is too much to say about this fruitful period of this amazing record label to go on at length. The musicians included in this playlist speak enough volumes: Albert Ayler, Chico Hamilton, Charles Mingus, Sun Ra, Archie Shepp, Sonny Rollins, and Mel Brown. There is a lot of music there and I apologize, but sometimes massive amounts of listening is the only way to really get into this type of music. Enjoy.

Pop and Circumstance: An Existential Review of Grimes’ New Album and The State Of Popular Music

Paris Hilton reworked album by Banksy, with live cockroaches. photograph by Barney Pell


Editor’s note: Alex Kazemi is one of our favorite “voices of a generation” – a voice that has risen angelic and rebellious above the Tweeting and Snapchatting hordes. In a recent podcast, Bret Easton Ellis called Kazemi a “millennial friend” and “a contrarian 20 year old with a brilliant grasp of the contradictions that exist within his generation.” In the following review, if it can be called that, Kazemi shares his views on Grimes’ new album and wonders: “If Grimes can have a career in pop music, why can’t reality TV stars Scheana Marie and Heidi Montag?"


text by Alex Kazemi

 

Earlier this year indie artist Grimes tweeted "Now that indie music is obsessed with pop I feel completely bored by it”, an early indication and self-exploitation of her new album Art Angels. With one listen through - it is clearly a pop record.  It’s not a surprising move, from someone who dropped a Rihanna-reject single as her own single, and after poor response would back track and say “I made this song to be bought.”  It would be hilarious to hear the day, a similar sentiment came out of the mouth of someone like a young Britney Spears, an artist who will never be afraid of the word: pop star.

This idea of pop only being cool when it's under the guise of indie-art is wrong. The most creative pop songs are inside the corporate discography's of pop stars like Britney Spears. You like Tricky? You like to get trippy? Um, have you ever heard "Touch Of My Hand" off 2003's In The Zone? 

It’s, like what? Whoever needed the indie world, to make pop socially acceptable, or “cool”? Pop is pop. It’s music for the universe. Sometimes cheap pop is better, sometimes cheap is tastier.  Grimes is an example of someone who makes “smart pop music” that is tailored for the "music intellectual," the type of person who is not supposed to feel embarrassed or find it ironic to be listening to pop music because it's "actually creative, and you know smart pop music," but what is smart pop music? Is it when the artist behind it is the self-aware one controlling everything rather than a team of people conspiring on an album for a face to perform? If Grimes can have a career in pop music, why can’t reality TV stars like Heidi Montag or Scheana Marie? Why should there be a time and place when pop music is valid? All pop music should always be valid. Stupid or smart, it’s valid.

2006’s "Stars Are Blind" by Paris Hilton, to most millennials (one including CHARLI XCX) is one of the best pop songs of all time but not because it's Paris singing it but because it's a toasty tropical song that washes you away to someplace else in the way pop music should, and most of us who heard it for the first time - were children, too young to ever think to question the motives of a Reality TV star heiress that was making a record with J.R & Scott Storch.  The actress turned pop star trick was normalized to us growing up in the early 2000s, from Lindsay Lohan to Ashley Tisdale. These people were, and are pop artists.

Now in 2015, a time where the most watched people on TV: Reality TV stars like the women on Real Housewives and Kim Kardashian have released singles, this is just normal. There were even torturous rumors of teen terror Kylie Jenner releasing a single last year. It's a nu sacred rite of passage. You go on reality TV, once you finally reach d-list status, you record your single, drop it on iTunes on your own label and it becomes a trashy cult classic for a lucky few and then we all move on with our lives.  I'm sure Juliet from Bravo's Ladies Of London is going to drop her new single "Fashion Is My Passion! (Stylist From London)" any day now. Half a decade ago, reality TV star Heidi Montag dropped her debut album SUPERFICIAL, it featured major pop producers, one including RedOne, who at the time was the madman behind the sounds of GaGa's opus The Fame Monster. Why wasn’t Heidi's music treated the same as GaGa's? I’ll never know. It's not like vocal talent means anything in pop (see Haillee Steinfield). There can be something beautiful, disgusting and entrancing, listening to a young woman who clearly grew up worshipping mega pop idols like Madonna record vocals with such plastic and powerful delusion.  It is now strange to think that Montag may have had ulterior motives being on The Hills, a focus to further her own pop career. 

Heidi's music is not accessible, and to some is unlistenable - it's because not many people are brave enough to step into a dark world that even Barbie, herself might not be ready to go into. 

Heidi Montag, would release gorgeous self-made iMovie music videos, long before Lana Del Rey. One still exists under an abandoned YouTube account “HeidiMontagRecords,” where a teaser for the never released video for “LOOK HOW I’M DOING,” a 33-second clip of paparazzi taking photos of her. Flashes burst, as she steps out of a black car - a fetish of her own nothingness.  


"It's not like vocal talent, means anything in pop...there can be something beautiful, disgusting and entrancing, listening to a young woman who clearly grew up worshipping mega pop idols like Madonna record vocals with such plastic and powerful delusion."


It could be that Montag was born to be a cult-super pop star, who would only exist in a once in a life time televised Miss Universe performance, and a Superficial promo club tour that can only exist in our imagination.  Unfortunately, Heidi Montag, is the real life, unfinished pop star. 

It is true that Heidi's early 20s sex-kitten days are long gone, but since she turns 30 next year - it could be a great time for her to deliver a spa-lounge record, about coming to terms with her own mortality and the tragic loss of fame. An experience, many people beyond her years might never have. I believe Montag is capable of some fire-torch laments, and haunting shoegaze moments while remaining her natural gift for pop. We are ready to hear your screams, Heidi.

Scheana Marie, the reality TV star of Bravo’s Vanderpump Rules - has been hard at work on her pop career since the show’s 2013 premiere, using it as a platform to get her music out, while living a double life as a waitress at SUR.  The show aired haunting footage of her performing her single that sounds like the price it is sold for: “What I Like” to an empty Hollywood audience. Some people may see her as a talent show act, but for her it is real – scary and fascinating, lost in the imagination. A delusion and ambition that could out-flame the early Montag, herself.

On the season premiere of the newest season of Vanderpump Rules, Scheana Marie held a decade party for her 30th birthday. She decided to dress up as VMAs 80s Madonna. The majority of pop stars today do that, everyday; the only difference is they get paid for it. The majority of the world may perceive Scheana as a "basic bitch," like every other American 30 year old woman who posts countless duck-lip selfies, goes to Hanson concerts and puts her hand on her hip in a skin tight dress at any given photo op, but maybe it's time for "basic bitch" pop to infiltrate and end our exhausting boring competitive costume party of colored hair, and predictable shock. A club girl pop star who loves being normal and partying, sounds like a refreshing spa-day for the pop world. Someone should get her in the studio fast, or she should make a Kickstarter to fund her debut album. Possibly, Starbucks could fund her next video. She could start off, where Paradiso Girls stopped. Her normality, is a gritty asset - the pop world needs. 

If either Scheana or Heidi, ended up in the studio with Major Lazer or Avicii - what would make these girls not deserve the spot? Maybe, Marie and Montag’s refreshing approach to pop music - desperate, hungry delusion is actually something endearing and genuine, in the time of Meghan Trainor. A void of vocal talent is important. Scheana Marie and Heidi Montag on Top 40 beside today’s groundbreaking acts like X-Ambassadors and OMI could be nothing short of revolutionary. 

The purity and beauty of reality TV stars turned pop-stars like Heidi Montag and Scheana Marie is that they are the opposite of ironic. There is nothing hilarious about their music, they want to be pop stars, they live and die for this shit. It's that simple. It's real. It's not getting the last laugh, or caring to think the world thinks they are ironically experimenting with the genre, in a way that is "smart and valid.”  It's a horrifying and gaudy "Give me my fucking video. Give me my dance track. Make me look like a star, and let's take over the world" kind of thing. Isn't this, what real art angels are made of?

11 Things You Need To Know About The Artist Known As H.C. Westermann

"See America First," a comprehensive exhibition of sculptures and drawings by the late, great H.C. Westermann, is on view now at Venus Over Manhattan. The installation features a wide range of Westermann's work, spanning from 1953 to 1980. Here are 11 Things You Need To Know about the artist before you visit the exhibition:

1. He served in the U.S. Marine Corps

Westermann served in World War II on the aircraft carrier Enterprise, weathering kamikaze attacks by Japanese fighter planes. He also served in the Korean War. Thus, much of Westermann’s work draws on the idea of a nostalgic and romantic America, one that yearns for a return to traditional values.

2. He was a carpenter

Before his service, Westermann worked in the logging industry of the Pacific Northwest, where he picked up woodworking and handyman jobs. Westermann used the skills he learned as a carpenter to create sculptures that confronted the realities of his time at war and the post-war psyche of America in the 40s and 50s. Mr. Westermann once said he wanted his constructions to look like they’d been made by a mad cabinetmaker. 

3. He started out as a painter

Westermann attended the School of the Art Institute of Chicago on the GI Bill, where he studied painting. His paintings combined geometric abstraction with surrealist images, inspired greatly by the work of Paul Klee. After college in the mid-1950s, he turned to sculpture. 

4. A cross-country road trip inspired an entire series of creations

Mr. Westermann and his wife (painter Joanna Beall) embarked on a cross-country road trip in 1964, which inspired a series of cartoon drawings in 1968. These drawings, entitled “See America First,” were the inspiration for the newest showing of his work at Venus Over Manhattan.

5. His letters to his dealer included wild drawing and fantasies

Several wild and beautifully illustrated personal letters to Westermann’s long-time dealer Allan Frumkin are included in the newest exhibition.

6. He regularly made art as gifts for friends

The exhibition includes a box with sergeant stripes inlaid in its lid’s underside that he gave to the Los Angeles painter Billy Al Bengston as well as a relief carving he made for the West Coast Funk artist William T. Wiley. “For Baby Ed from Cliff” is a small, rustic rocking horse that he gave to the Pop artist Ed Ruscha.

7. He inspired a generation of underground artists

Westermann’s work challenged the pop art status quo of the 1960s. Movements such as the Bay Area’s “Funk Art” scene and the famous Chicago Imagists Hairy Who were inspired by Westermann’s art.

8. He was featured on the Beatles’ “Sgt. Pepper” album.

In 1967, he was one of the celebrities featured on the cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely hearts Club Band. Mr. Westermann appears in the third row alongside George Bernard Shaw and Albert Stubbins.

9. He refused to comment on his work

When asked to interpret an object of his, Westermann said, “It puzzles me too… How can I explain a work like that?”

10. He was given a retrospective at the Whitney

In 1978, Westermann was given a full-fledged retrospective at the Whitney Museum of American Art. Reviewing the Whitney exhibition, John Russell wrote in The New York Times: ''There is in his work a combination of fiendish invention, boisterousness, naivete and a high-souled ethical overdrive. He never evades a question, and he doesn't mind coming on like an unreconstructed preacher.''

11. His Views On Art and Death Were Profound

Westermann died of a heart attack at the age of 58 in Danbury, Connecticut in 1981. Of life, he said, ''I feel that life is very fragile. We're all just hanging by a thread; it's very spooky. I can best come to grips with it by doing my work. I guess that's why I'm an artist.''


"See America First" is on view now until December 19th at Venus Over Manhattan, 980 Madison Avenue, New York, NY. Text by Keely Shinners


[FRIDAY PLAYLIST] Ode to Southern Lord Records

Despite decades of evidence to the contrary, music snobs still have a hard time viewing heavy metal as a musical form worthy of the label, "art." Greg Anderson and Stephen O'Malley have fought that notion throughout their careers. With the announcement of the duo's main band Sunn O))) releasing its first new record since 2008's 'Monoliths and Demensions (except for the 2014 'Soused' that saw the band collaborate with legendary UK singer Scott Walker), I have decided to use this Autre Playlist to pay homage to the duo's work as well as their record label, Southern Lord.

Anderson and O'Malley are artists that happen to work in heavy metal, but are not pretentious enough to claim that they are elevating heavy music. Instead, they see metal as one of the mediums that they work in. Before Sunn O))), both men were in the more traditional doom metal band Thorr's Hammer. They got artier and arguably more extreme with the blackened doom metal band Burning Witch. The most conceptual and long-lasting of their projects however has certainly been Sunn O))) (named after their amplifier of choice). Heavily influenced by Earth's second album '2,' Sunn 0))) has consistently utilized loud droning guitars swirling in and out of one another to dizzy the listener into a transcendental lull. It is experimental and psychedelic, but most certainly metal. O'Malley is also an extremely talented artist and designer (see his work on his website, ideologic.org), and that shows in Sunn O))))'s stage performances; the band, draped in black robes, surrounds themselves with mist and darkness creating something of a ritualistic seance. It is thrilling, and even though I don't listen to heavy music like I used to, I have been consistently fascinated with the band for over a decade.

Though Anderson and O'Malley started Southern Lord in 2008 to release their own music, it quickly became one of the most important labels in underground metal. Southern Lord has helped introduce some of the most interesting metal acts of the last few decades to the world. Khanate, a noise doom band founded by Anderson and god screamer vocalist Alan Dubin, set the pace for similarly terrifying bands like Gnaw and (funnily enough) Gnaw their Tongues. Wolves in the Throne Room were one of the first bands to draw connections between black metal and shoegaze, crossing over to Pitchfork-approved success. Black Breath, one of today's most successful crossover bands, put their early records out on SL, as well.

O'Malley and Anderson have also used Southern Lord to release music by the people that influenced them. Earth (side note: Earth's front man Dylan Carlson was Kurt Cobain's best friend) found a re-birth on Southern Lord, ditching the drone metal sound for a western-inflected psychedelia that serves as the perfect soundtrack to reading Cormac McCarthy's 'Blood Meridian.' Striborg, a mysterious one-man black metal band,  found wider success due to his association with the label. Even very traditional metal bands including Saint Vitus and Pentagram have released music via the imprint.

Most recently, Southern Lord has become a coveted label for crust punk and hardcore bands. The only unifying theme in the label's world is that it be good and heavy, at least according to the label's honored leaders. 

Now bring on the new Sunn O))) record. 

Five Things We Learned About Gaspar Noé's "Love" In 3D

Gaspar Noé's 3D sex magnum opus "Love" made its grand premiere at the The Theater At Ace Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles this week. The director himself was there to answer some questions after the film, moderated by KCRW. Here are some things we learned from watching the film and from snippets of Noé's Q&A. 

1.    Noé cast friends and non-actors, and shot the film on a two-million-dollar budget in just five weeks

Eschewing the use of a professional casting director, he put together an ensemble largely comprised of non-actors, including his friends, his wife, crew members, and interesting people he met at bars and parties (his three main leads, Karl Glusman, Aomi Muyock and Klara Kristin, were cast this way). Casting decisions were finalized just one week before shooting began—Karl Glusman recalls a phone call from Noé in which the director urged him to “ignore his manager and jump on a plane.” Somewhat controversially, Noé named many of his characters after his own family and friends. Noé himself also makes a cameo in the film, as a hotheaded art gallery owner.

2.  Love may be Noé’s most tender film to date

There is a distinct and almost surprising lack of violence in the film, especially when compared to Noé’s brutal, decidedly confrontational earlier works such as I Stand Alone (1998) and Irréversible (2002). The film is chaotic, subversive, sensoral and explicit, as one would expect, yet there is a noted tenderness to the graphic love scenes that saves them from seeming gratuitous. They are realistic, naturalistic, necessary to the story. The violence that does occur in the film is of an emotional nature—and is exhibited in a particularly aggressive screaming match between the two main characters that takes place in a moving taxicab following an episode of infidelity. In the vein of the French New Wave filmmakers Noé idolized growing up, he worked with a minimal script, and much of the dialogue in the film was improvised by the actors. In preparation for this scene, leading man Karl Glusman asked leading lady Aomi Muyock to tell him the most hurtful thing a man could ever say to her. Her response, delivered viciously in the film by Glusman’s character, Murphy, caused a palpable reaction in audience members.

3.     Noé’s goal for the film was to portray love and sexuality in a realistic way not usually seen in films

He describes having sex as “one of the most natural and most relaxing things on earth, besides swimming and dancing,” noting that most movies either show actors having sex without kissing (as in pornography) or kissing and not having sex (as in the majority of mainstream love stories). “Movies seem to portray a world in which true love isn’t sexual. And that’s a huge lie. Life is erotic,” Noé told Vanity Fair, “I wanted to portray in a narrative film love as I knew it: ecstatic, painful, addictive.”

4.     There are funny moments in the film

Noé’s tongue-in-cheek sense of humor is keenly felt throughout Love. Though the dark, moody trailer may not suggest it, several scenes had the audience giggling: most notably, a painfully awkward sexual encounter between the main couple and a transvestite, the main character’s decision to name his child Gaspar, and, of course, the most talked-about shot in the film, in which the main character ejaculates directly onto the camera. Lead actor Karl Glusman explains that this shot was filmed at the end of his very first day of shooting, and that he initially “wanted to get right back on the plane.”

5.     On the shooting and editing of the film:

Noé’s decision to shoot in 3D sprung from his feeling that intimacy is much more strongly felt in 3D than in 2D. He recalls filming his dying mother on a 3D camera, and the way that the images he captured appeared incredibly lifelike. In a film that centers on passion and sex, he wanted the faces of his characters to appear more touching, more emotional—to have a visceral effect on audience members. Because 3D glasses darken the image onscreen significantly, Noé enhanced the film’s color grading in order to retain the vivid, vibrant colors captured by masterful cinematographer and longtime collaborator Benoît Debie. He also utilizes an editing technique that mimics the blinking of a human eye (a method also seen in 2009's Enter the Void). In Love, though, most of the shots are either static or filmed with a Steadicam, in order to avoid audience members becoming nauseous from the sensory overload of 3D combined with the movements of a handheld camera.


Gaspar Noé's "Love" is now playing in Los Angeles. It will be opening later this week in New York. Text by Annabel Graham


A scene from "Love" 



5 Favorite Works from Input/Output Auction Presented by Artsy and Sotheby's

text by Stas Chyzhykova

Artsy's inaugural online auction with Sotheby's closes tonight. Input / Output features phenomenal pieces by leading emerging artists and contemporary art's pioneers. I am sharing my 5 favorite works from the sale that are collector "must haves:"

1: Richard Prince's Untitled (Portrait) from his recent Instagram series has already become iconic following the block-buster solo show at Gagosian London. In this new body of work, Richard Prince—the master of reappropriation—uses the “selfie” as a central framework. He elevates this ephemeral imagery to explore issues around the “cult of the self,” while subverting the fleeting nature of social media. By adding his own comments to each work—often pulling phrases directly from television advertising—he incorporates another element of “self” into the portraits. The series was recently exhibited at Gagosian Gallery in London. Bid here

2: Robert Heinecken, a precursor to appropriation and one of the most significant figures in contemporary photography, founded the photography program at UCLA. A work from the very same edition, Cybill Shepard/Phone Sex, was included in Heinecken's retrospective at MoMA in 2014. In this sculpture, Heinecken takes advantage of the flagrant presence of commercially produced, life-size cut-outs. He humorously manipulates the pop culture imagery, exaggerating its provocative nature to lay bare the ties between photography, sex, and consumerism. Bid here

3: The inclusion of Mark Flood's Apple 6 comes on the heels of his recent solo show at Contemporary Arts Museum Houston. Flood's works are in the permanent collections of the Dallas Museum of Art; the Menil Collection, Houston; the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth; and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. Apple 6, a large scale painting, is a reminder of Apple's un-disputable impact on our every day life and culture. Bid here

4: Michael Manning Full Forever; Let Her Go is a captivating diptych that was originally created using touch-screen tablets and image software such as Photoshop, and then translated into 3-D. Manning was recently included in the New Museum's exhibition "First Look: Brushes", focusing on artists who paint with the computer. Bid here

 

5: Parker Ito embraces technology and the Internet, disrupting the trajectory of traditional art-making. Due to its highly reflective and textured surface the artwork changes color depending on the viewer's vintage point and if photographed with a flash. In “The Agony and the Ecstasy” series, Parker Ito explores the gap between digital and physical engagements with works of art. Capitalizing on the reflective quality of 3M Scotchlite fabric, Ito’s work resists photographic documentation and takes on new life when translated from the gallery space to the computer screen. Bid here. 


Text and list by Stas Chyzhykova of Artsy. Input / Output is closing tonight, Friday, October 30th, at 9PM PT, so now is your last chance to bid. All works will be on view at Fused Space in San Francisco from October 22 to October 30, 2015.


[AUTRE PLAYLIST] Best of Horror

text by Adam Lehrer

While I'm not a huge Halloween fan, my love of horror cinema is only bested by my love of music. Luckily, the two mediums have always gone hand-in-hand. Films simply can't be scary without tense and eerie sounds gripping the film viewer as it goes along. 

Horror film music arguably has had more influence on contemporary music than all other film scoring combined. It's hard to imagine industrial music, noise, drone, dark ambient, and some electronic music without the blueprints laid down in soundtracks to films like 'Eraserhead,' scored by David Lynch himself. 

While 'Eraserhead' isn't strictly a horror film of course, it is very scary. Making a film scary is no small feat, explaining why some of the scariest films ever made (pretty much all of Lynch's films are terrifying, another example is Lars Von Trier's underrated 'Antichrist') are done by auteur directors. Scary requires a singular vision.

John Carpenter is the true auteur of B cinema. His best films are better directed than most of today's prestige dramas, and Carpenter had complete creative control over every decision in the films, even scoring the music himself. His score for 'Halloween' both created and elevated the slasher genre, and every time we hear those ringing synths we look over our shoulder waiting for Michael Myers to brutally butcher us. His synth work has been undeniably influential, precluding the whole "cold wave" genre that would come into its own in the '80s and later be popularized by bands like New York-based Cold Cave in the '00s. Also included in this playlist is Carpenter's score to 'The Fog' as well as a bonus track, a Carpenter remix by New York noise icon Pruriert, aka Dom Fernow.

One of the few rock bands to ever get famous specifically for soundtrack work, progressive rock band Goblin's work with Italian Giallo Horror director Dario Argento was groundbreaking. Argento developed a new style of horror that was bright, stylish, big. and very fucking scary. Goblin's work encapsulated all of that, with near-shlocky use of synths and horn sections. The band's best known work was for classic witchcraft film 'Suspiria,' but their work was equally good on the less stellar film 'Phenomena' (which has the most disgusting person falling in pit of decomposing body goo ever shot). My favorite of Goblin' soundtracks is that for 'Tenebre,' my favorite Argento film. Spotify didn't have it though.

Kenneth Anger's most watchable film, the religious horror 'Lucifer Rising,' is scored to an epic soundtrack by Bobbu Beausoleil, who is currently serving a life sentence for his connection to the Manson Family. Beausoleil has a role in the film but his soundtrack, marked by fuzzed out guitar riffs and a free jazz-referencing horn section, is a marvelous achievement. In retrospect, it's hard to imagine the heavy psych bands like Acid Mother's Temple without it.

Mica Levi's soundtrack for last year's 'Under the Skin' reminds its viewers how important sound is to horror films. Much of the film would simply consist of Scarlet Johannson seducing sad sack men had it not been for the fact that those scenes are marked my screeching tonal soundscapes. Every facial gesture reeks of pure menace as a result.
 

And of course this list wouldn't be complete without the OGs. Krzysztof Komeda's OST for Roman Polanski's 'Rosemary's Baby' exemplified how sound can be used to amplify a character's growing anxiety. Bernard Hermann, one of the greatest film composers ever ('Taxi Driver,' etc.), used tension in sound to push Alfred Hitchcock's narratives along ('Psycho' wasn't on Spotify, so we settle for 'Vertigo'). Finally, has anyone ever been able to swim in the ocean minus anxiety after hearing John Williams' score to 'Jaws?" I think not. 

Happy Halloween everyone, be safe!

6 Things We Learned About Artist Justin Adian From His Talk During His Exhibition at Skarstedt Gallery

photograph by James McKee


Artist Justin Adian titled his recently closed show at Skarstedt Gallery ‘Fort Worth’ after his hometown. The show features Adian’s bold organic paintings created by stretching oil enamel-painted canvases around foam cushions then mounted on wood. Some people would argue that Adian’s work is abstract, and they’d be right most of the time. But Adian also engages in pop culture iconography; one painting references Raymond Pettibon’s infamous Black Flag logo. Adian doesn’t so much mash-up high and low as he does reject high-low as a concept. Good art is good art.

What is a major influence on the show is the Texan town that it is named after. Not only in its referencing of Texan Minimalism but there is a mellow vibe to Adian’s paintings in the show. Looking at them almost strips back your inhibitions and stresses more than they force the viewer to ponder the meanings in their minds. There are references to design and architecture, and it appears like Adian is perfectly fine with his work being seen as something of an interesting object in the background of a space.

On Wednesday night in October, Adian sat down with art historian Alex Kitnick to discuss some of these concepts. What was interesting is that Kitnick, a tried and true art historian, seemed to have difficulty relating to Adian and his huge breadth of pop cultural influences. As a result, the conversation never really took off like it could have. Nevertheless, here are six things we learned about Justin Adian at his discussion of ‘Fort Worth.’



1. He considers his work to be paintings, but they usually start as drawings

“They start as drawings. I think of the final products as paintings, but as the material grows they increase in lines and negative space.”



2. Raymond Pettibon is everything to him, and he loves referencing Pettibon in the work.

“One of the artists that I loved before I ever got into art was Pettibon. I wanted to make an homage to the Black Flag bars but in pink. It’s called ‘Slip it In,’ after my favorite Black Flag record.”

3. He utterly rejects the delineation between high and low art.

“Everything in the work is just stuff that is in my head whether it be minimalism, counter-culture, or music. I’ve never grown out of any of my interests, my interests just grow.”


4. When working for a “White Cube” exhibit, his work comes out a bit more slick than usual.

“These works are pretty slick for me. When it comes to these Chelsea shows I tend to make these slicker and more gentle pieces.”


5. He uses boat paint, as in paint that you use to decorate your boat.

“This is all boat paint, so it’s really shiny. It elicits weirdly northern European commercial colors.”


6. His next show will be far less slick.

“I am working on stuff that will entail much more aggressive gestures, like two panels on a face, so it will be coming out at you and pushing back at the piece.”


Justin Adian's "Fort Worth" has closed, but you can check out images from the exhibition here. Text by Adam Lehrer. Follow Autre on Instagram: @autremagazine


A Fond Farewell to the Legendary Raf Simons and Autre's Educated Predictions On Who Might Take Over At Maison Dior

When it was announced that Alexander Wang would be leaving his position as creative director at Balenciaga, no one was immensely surprised: critics scoffed at collections and more importantly, sales were down. Raf Simons’ decision to leave Dior comes as much more of a shock. The brand has stated that Raf is leaving due to “personal reasons,” including desire to further grow his menswear brand and do other things with his life. Fair enough. Running two brands has to be one of the most emotionally and physically draining lifestyles a human could possibly lead (with all the Raf Simons and Dior collections, Raf was doing a whopping 10 collections a year). But if you have seen ‘Dior and I’ you might have noticed Raf also had early difficulty adjusting to the atelier of the house. When working with his own brand, and to a lesser extent at Jil Sander, Raf probably grew accustomed to having an idea and then having his team do everything in their powers to bring forth that idea into fruition. The film shows Raf angry over things like finding out that his Dior pattern cutter had flown to New York on a couture trip when he is on a three week deadline to unleash his first Dior collection to the world. Though the film eventually portrays Raf and the Dior atelier coming to terms and celebrating a magnificent first collection, it stands to reason that this wouldn’t be the last time that the designer would find himself annoyed over the stifling big business-minded practices of Dior.

I would have liked to see much more Raf Simons at Dior. His departure is made all the more surprising when you watch this video from the Business of Fashion: Raf seemed like he was all in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCkpCPZ59l8. But there’s no point in lamenting. Instead, let’s celebrate the wonderful Raf Simons X Dior moments: Fall 2012 Haute Couture, FW 2013, SS 2014, Resort 2015, and so much more.

All and all, I’d argue that in only thee years Raf Simons established himself in the lineage of the great Dior creative directors along with Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, John Galliano, and Christian Dior himself.

So who the hell is going to be able to fill the Raf Simons-sized hole in the middle of Dior’s womenswear department? Here's a few educated predictions by Autre's trusty fashion editor-at-large, Adam Lehrer.

Christopher Kane:

When Scottish designer Christopher Kane founded his namesake label in 2006, the tight fitting silhouette was at the forefront of fashion. Kane revived a looser fit, allowing billowy and loose-fitting garments to hang from the body that remained effortlessly elegant. That effortlessness would be ideal for Dior, a label that prides itself on putting out clothes that women feel both beautiful and comfortable in. His color palette, full of blood reds and powerful blues, would feel right at home in the context of Dior ready-to-wear collections. On top of all that, Kane seems to have a true understanding of quality, and has always known how to price his garments accordingly. If you pair that knowledge of quality with the limitless resources and powerful atelier of Dior, Kane might be able to match the success of his predecessor in a role as creative director at the label.


Phoebe Philo:


Considering how successful, even revolutionary, Phoebe Philo has been in her role as creative director of Céline, it’s unlikely that LVMH would encourage the designer to leave her role and take on a new one at Dior. Philo has always had the remarkable ability to leave her mark on a house while paying respects to its ethos as she has done in her roles leading Chloé and Céline. She is very often thought of as something of a minimal designer (as was Raf), but minimal can be such a reductive term when describing what she does (and what Raf does). I would better describe it as restrained. Restrained fashion can be interpreted as effortless, and effortless is central to the mission of Dior. She also is not given enough credit for her penchant for feminine opulence; take a look at her FW 2015 collection that featured zebra patterns and pom poms. And with Dior always claiming to be ground zero for discovering knew ways for women to dress, isn’t it about time they let a woman decide those new ways?


Gareth Pugh:

My personal wild card. As unlikely as seeing Gareth Pugh enlisted to a house as commercial as Dior is, you have to admit that the idea is interesting. Pugh would most likely be hard pressed to accept a position at Dior, considering this is the man who squatted to be able to afford his runway shows before his clothes actually sold anywhere. But Raf was once a designer that people best thought of for making male noise rockers and Goths look luxurious, granted his successful tenure at Jil Sander. The point is: a conceptual designer isn’t out of place at a house like Dior. Raf is conceptual. Galliano is certainly conceptual (the dude set a haute couture show to the Stooges, one of the best fashion shows ever by the way). Yves was definitely conceptual. I am very interested in seeing what Pugh would be able to do if he was given the constraints that Dior places on him. In his own label, he’s proved that he can do whatever he wants and he’s done so wonderfully. But what would his clothes look like if he knew he had to hit certain sales figures? Pugh’s SS 2016 collection felt like a new direction for his brand where he seemed openly interested in high society and it was one of his best shows to date. I guarantee that anyone with Pugh’s talent level could be a commercial juggernaut; it’s just about honing that vision into something relatable.

Alber Elbaz:

According to WWD, Alber Elbaz has just exited Lanvin. At first, I was pretty taken aback. Elbaz, at this point, IS Lanvin: the Israeli designer is coming up on his 15th year at the label and has enjoyed immense success peddling an unabashed feminine aesthetic, revolutionizing the fashion sneaker (along with Lanvin menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver), and seeing his garments worn by Kate Moss, Chloe Sevigny, and Sofia Coppola. So why would he leave now? There was apparently tension between him and Lanvin majority shareholder Shaw Lin-Wang, but it appears that that tension has existed for a while. Us industry folks will most certainly speculate on this being a power move for Elbaz, seizing the opportunity that Raf left open at Dior. Though Raf did wonderfully at Dior, his pension for futurism and conceptual ideas assumedly put him at odds with the atelier and shareholders. That tension can yield some amazing collections but isn't a built-to-last situation. Elbaz was a frontrunner to step in for John Galliano at Dior in 2011. Perhaps Dior is looking at a top-shelf designer that is unabashed about his love for feminine classicism. Raf did well at re-defining Dior, but Elbaz should do excellent at defining Dior. Exciting fashion stuff folks!


Adam Lehrer is a writer, journalist, and art and fashion critic based in New York City. On top of being Autre’s fashion and art correspondent, he is also a regular contributor to Forbes Magazine. His unique interests in punk, hip hop, skateboarding and subculture have given him a distinctive, discerning eye and voice in the world of culture, et al. Oh, and he also loves The Sopranos. Follow him on Instagram: @adam102287

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The Year of The Zine: Autre's Picks For the Top Ten Zines of 2015

2015 is when the zine went mainstream. Some of our fave artists dabbled in the fine craftsmanship of the stapled chapbook that many people think dates back to the early days of punk, but it actually can be dated all the way back to 1776 when Thomas Paine published his famous pamphlet, Common Sense, which rifled enough feathers for thirteen colonies to declare war and independence from the British. Fancy that. However, the modern zine, which is shorthand for fanzine – not magazine as many believe – was a photocopied, hastily stapled together collection of appropriated imagery and art school angst. In 2015, the zine has held true to its DIY Xerox aesthetic, with a few surprising contributions – and of course some obvious contributors from the likes of one of our favorite photographers working today, Sandy Kim, and from one of our favorite new Los Angeles queer-cult collective, Gurt. Here are ten of our favorite zines that came out in 2015, so far.  

Sandy Kim LA XXX

When we interviewed Sandy Kim in May, we described her pictures as a “neon-hued punk diary of her life.” Her most recent project LA XXX, calls the artist a “Busy Petite Exotic Korean Treasure” at the bottom of the newsprint-style zine. The artist’s background in shooting for the band Girls alongside post-sex portraits of her boyfriend lends its gritty feel to her new photos. Published by SFAQ[Projects], the 20 pages cover everything from penises made out of pills to nude self portraits. The limited run of 250 copies can be purchased on the SFAQ[Projects] website or you can check out more images from the run on her Instagram.

Jonathan Leder A Study in Fetishisms Vol. 2

Jonathan Leder’s second volume of A Study In Fetishisms dives into the American captivation with blondes, and their various accompanying reputations. Curated by Amy Hood, the 64-page zine explores the timeless idea of if “blondes really have more fun” in text, and through Leder’s film photography. Featuring blondes with a girl-next door as well as early Playboy look, the zine can be purchased through Imperial Publishing.

Chloë Sevigny No Time For Love

No Time For Love is almost like finding and reading Chloë Sevigny’s diary that a child with a sticker collection was in possession of before you. The zine is a compilation of photos of Sevigny’s past loves, both platonic and romantic. To preserve their identities (for the most part), Sevigny placed stickers over their faces. In addition, she also included clippings from 90s tabloids about her which provides an intimate and at the same time outsider feeling to the zine. The 28-page zine can be purchased through Innen Zines, in Euros of course.

Tom Sachs Satan Ceramics

Shhh, this zine actually came out in 2014, but we had to include it in this list, because it's so good. The artist collective Satan Ceramics is composed of artists Tom Sachs, Pat McCarthy, JJ PEET,  and Mary Frey. The sculptors use a variety of different mediums including clay in their symbolic works. As a result of their weekly art gatherings, Satan Ceramics, the 64 page black and white zine, is comprised of images of their show at Salon 94 and can be purchased on Tom Sachs’s website. Ranging from images of Tom Sachs’s Cyclops, a porcelain and bamboo stereo to Pat McCarthy’s tonal reductions fired on porcelain, the zine will make you wish you had gone, or feel smug about going to their installation at Salon 94.

Brad Elterman No Dogs On Beach

Brad Elterman’s archive of photos is a gold mine. Lucky for you, he’s put the best of them into a zine in his new publishing venture No Dogs On Beach. The iconic rock’n’roll and pop culture photographer started his career as a 16-year-old photographing Bob Dylan in concert and escalated to taking photos of names such as David Bowie and Michael Jackson backstage. After taking a hiatus from photography, he’s back to capturing images of today’s biggest influencers, and just put out his 80-page zine No Dogs On Beach which can be purchased on Smoke-room’s website.

The Fifth Goal 1998-2003: Transcendental Graffiti Zine (aka Freight Train Graffiti Zine)

Although The Fifth Goal 1998-2003: Transcendental Graffiti Zine is a book, the eight zines that the book is composed of speak to the true nature of what a zine was at its original conception years ago. The black and white, photocopy, cut and paste construction of the late Blake Donner’s work documents freight train graffiti art from 1998 to 2003. In The Fifth Goal, one can see the development of Donner’s passion for the unique art form through the way his zines shift in content ranging from spiritual questions to interviews of graffiti artists to drawings of train workers. The 436-page book has been created as a tribute to Donner by his friends and will be released at Printed Matter’s 2016 LA Art Book Fair on January 29th through February 2nd. It can also be purchased here

Deanna Templeton They Should Never Touch the Ground

Deanna Templeton and her skateboarder husband Ed Templeton have been described as “the godparents of zine culture,” it’s easy to understand why once you look at their work. Deanna Templeton’s history in street photography has led her to publish numerous works, her most recent zine being They Should Never Touch the Ground. Published by Deadbeat Club Press, Deanna got inspiration for the images from a trip to Europe where she noticed a lot of people sporting American flags. They Should Never Touch the Ground examines the different ways that the American flag is used and portrayed in society today in the U.S.A. and can be purchased on Deadbeat Club’s website.

James Concannon Machismo

“MACHISMO is a collection of self shot/self starring unedited “dick pics” taken around the country with an iPhone” reads the back of James Concannon’s new zine. Open the pages, and you’ll find Concannon’s interpretation of the 21st century sexual revolution driven by technology and vanity. Taken all over the United States, with different backgrounds, and at different points in masturbation, it gives the dick pics relatable, real life feeling. The artist launched MACHISMO at a gay bar, and the limited edition run of 40 copies was printed by Girlfriend Gallery. It's currently sold out, but you can try here

GURT the Zine – Issue 2: Gurtrasia

This little zine hails from the land of Los Angeles from of a collective of queer rebels who know how to party and how to put together an incredible zine. Last week saw the release of issue two of Gurt, aptly named Gurtrasia, at Bad Reputation and then the after party at Bar Marmont on the sunset strip. Issue two is described as such: "The Gurts have created a whole new world for all of #US to thrive in, but is it really any different from the Gurt they left behind?" Who knows, we say. Issue two includes work by the likes of Dan Savage, Marcel Alcala Christopher Argodale Brendan Cameron and more. You can find Gurt here.  

Sarah Piantadosi Milk Jagger

Through her new zine Milk Jagger, Sarah Piantadosi, a well known fashion photographer, breaks out of the limiting editorial photography world. There’s a dichotomy between the beautiful and the sleazy in the images, which is echoed between the contrast of the black and white images and their bright tie-dye like border. The pictures in the zine are based off the “Milk Jagger” immoral cop alter-ego of Michael B. Wallace, a musician. Her photos from Milk Jagger are also being exhibited at Doomed Gallery in London starting October 27th. You will be able to find a copy of the zine there. 


Text by Madeline Guyette and Oliver Maxwell Kupper. Follow Autre on Instagram: @AUTREMAGAZINE



[AUTRE PLAYLIST] Motorcity Soul Rebels

Text by Adam Lehrer

Whenever I get the proverbial gun to the head and am asked if I could only listen to one genre of music forever, I go with soul and funk. Why? Because it's everything: amazing lyrics, amazing singing, political, emotional, makes you dance, makes you cry, makes you sex.

Motown Records in the '60s and '70s was a supercharged inferno of creativity. For every icon there's an under-praised equally deserving hero. For every Diana Ross, there's a Gladys Knight. I mean, FUCK, Gladys Knight, the power of that voice pre-dated the energy of punk and the heartbreaking candor of R&B.

You get guys like Stevie Wonder (my undeniable number one all-time favorite artist) and Marvin Gaye, and Jr. Walker all swinging to the music, fighting the power, and making beautiful jams under one roof. Now, that would be like Kanye, Beyoncé, and Frank Ocean all in the same studio at the same time with a unified front of hope and glory. That was Motown Records. It was a movement. There are no corporate labels like it and there never will be again. Something like that honestly can't exist. People don't love music in the same way that they did in those days.

Lots of people start thinking that MDMA came into popular recreational use during the days of Detroit Techno and Chicago House, but there are rumors that Temptations producer Norman Whitfield was copping love fizz since 1971. That makes total sense. Any fan of Motown would agree that all of those records have a physical buzz that just floods your body, pulsates within it. I'm an electronic music fan, but I can honestly say no music feels like Motown.