Challenging the Gaze: A Photographic Homage to Sofonisba Anguissola by Arale Reartes & Saskia Schmidt


photography by Arale Reartes c/o Magali Mgmt
styling by Saskia Schmidt
Models Uzu at NEU 
Happy, Steve & Louis at IZAIO 
makeup and hair by Berenice Ammann
casting by Cameron Niedrick
movement by Leonardo D'Aquino
production by Magali Mgmt 
photography assistant Brenda Vazquez
production assistant Dominik Graf
stylist assistant Denys Sadovyi & Kamal Emanga
Location scout by Marco Wagner

Arale is wearing Haderlump leather pants.
Steve is wearing Miu Miu longsleeve and Fendi pants.
Lou is wearing Miu Miu longsleeve and Avenir pants.

Sofonisba Anguissola, one of the first female Renaissance painters to gain recognition, created a celebrated self-portrait during a time when women were often confined to the role of muses. To avoid openly challenging the patriarchal norms of her era, Anguissola rendered her self-portrait such that it appears as though she, the subject, is being painted by her master.

This photographic editorial draws inspiration from Anguissola’s work and reflects on the persistence of social limitations that, centuries later, continue to relegate women to secondary roles—as muses or caregivers—creating discomfort when we occupy spaces of power and artistic creation.

Just as Anguissola defied expectations through her painting, this photographic self-portrait series by Arale Reartes plays with the ambiguity of the act of portrayal. Although these are self-portraits, the male figures also hold remote triggers, deliberately creating confusion about the identity of the author and the subject. This ambiguity invites the viewer to question not only who the true creator of the image, but also to challenge preconceived ideas about women’s place in art and society.

Arale is wearing Paloma Wool dress.
Lou is wearing Our Legacy blazer and William Fan pants.
Uzu is wearing Coach coat and Avenir pants.

Arale is wearing Haderlump dress.
Happy is wearing Coach shirt and Fendi pants.

Arale is wearing Milk of Lime bra and Falke tights.
Lou is wearing Avenir pants.

Arale is wearing Milk of Lime skirt and Haderlump jacket.
Lou is wearing full look by William Fan.
Uzu is wearing full look by Haderlump.
Happy is wearing William Fan shirt and Fendi pants.

Arale is wearing Haderlump dress.
Lou is wearing Namilia coat. 
Uzu is wearing a Joseph skirt and Coach blazer. 
Steve is wearing Chenaski pants and Namilia blazer.
Happy is wearing Namilia pants and Our Legacy Jacket.

Pipenco Lorena's Knitted Gowns Are A Delicate Homage to Her Mother's Post-Communist Immigration


photography by Kelli McGuire
creative direction and styling by Neptune Quek
set design by Lane Vineyard
makeup by Shoko Kodama
styling assistance by Madison Lynn
talent Millie Dunstan & Emma Deegan

The maternal determination to provide a life of opportunity for her post-Communist kin is woven with care into every stitch of Pipen Colorena’s knitwear gowns and slippers. Her newest collection is a delicate transmogrification of her family’s lived experience of immigrating from Romania to London, a push and pull between the pride and struggle of embracing a new chapter while mourning all that’s left behind.

Colorena takes inspiration from the creative exercises her grandmother developed for her as a child while her mother was away at work. After drawing a row of women in dresses on the page, her grandmother would challenge the young designer-to-be to find inventive ways of coloring and elaborating on them based on the various women within their community. Harkening those early mental souvenirs, a coquettish play with the memory of their softness, kindness, and flamboyant nature gives shape and dimension to each and every piece.

There is also a heavy dose of Romanian cinema and art from the 1970s imbued in the gowns, giving them a very personal sense of romantic nostalgia. Finally, to complement the elegant construction of finely knitted fabric, there are moments of conspicuous unraveling—a candid omission of subjection to struggle, the hardship inherent in the process of immigration and assimilation. It is an ode to the fortitude of a mother and a future generation made stronger by the crucible of passion and hardship.

 
 

Bal(enciag)at by Hakan Solak and Osman Özel

all clothing by Balenciaga Spring 2023

photography by Osman Özel
styling by Hakan Solak
set design by Stefanie Grau
hair by Masayuki Yuasa
make-up by Gianluca Venerdini
using Haebmau Atelier, Pat McGrath and Byredo
production by Laura Howes
light assistance by Riccardo Contrino
styling assistance by Aleix Llussà Lòpez
hair assistance by Lee Hyangsoon
set assistance by Catherine Lemeshynska
casting by Eli Xavier Casting
modeling by Sarah G. @ TIAD, Lici, Albena @ Indeed and Tarek
special thanks to Hayley Foo and the Balenciaga Team

Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Models pose in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Photo of evil eye pendent
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Models pose in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Models pose in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Model poses in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration
Photo of metal structure with chandeliers
Models pose in Balenciaga Adidas collaboration

Ještěd Tower: Krista Papista with Isotta Acquati & Hakan Solak

photography by Isotta Acquati
concept by Krista Papista
styling by Hakan Solak
photography assistance by Maria Larrea
styling assistance by Aleix Llussà Lòpez
set design by Jillian Van Koutrik
light design by Ashley Young
hair by Dushan Petrovich
makeup by Lee Hyangsoon
produced by Grace Farson
location assistance by Tatiana Bastos
graded by Carlos Vasquez
starring Krista Papista, Débora Fernandes and Eliza Chojnacka

Débora is wearing blazer and shoes by Comme des Costumes, stockings by Falke, earrings by Uncommon Matters, and brooch by Hugo Kreit
gloves: stylist’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Lou de Bétoly, faux fur coat by Comme des Costumes, fishnet, stockings and socks by Falke.
shoes and necklace: Krista’s own

Eliza is wearing vintage Mugler by Nightboutique Berlin, heels by Comme des Costumes, rings and earrings by Alan Crocetti. gloves: stylist’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Lou de Bètoly, faux fur coat by Comme des Costumes, fishnet, stockings and socks by Falke.
shoes and necklace: Krista’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta, Volkova by Nightboutique, coat by A Better Mistake, and shoes by Buffalo

headpiece by Bjoern van der Berg at Nightboutique Berlin

Krista is wearing dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta. Volkova by Nightboutique, and coat by A Better Mistake

Eliza is wearing tank top by Axel Arigato.
Krista is wearing net tights and socks by Falke.
jewelry: Krista’s own

 

Yearb00k by Prissilya Junewin & Camille Frank

photography by Prissilya Junewin
styling Camille Frank
styling assistance by Antonio Chiocca
hair by Rabea Roehll
make-up by Paloma Brytscha
casting by First Encounters
modeling by Nora @ IZAIO Management, Xie, Giada, Paul, Sijo, Valentin, Cong, Anja

Antler: A Fashion Editorial By Jaara Lange & Camille Pailler

photography by Jaara Lange
art direction and styling by Camille Pailler
styling assistance by Katya Makhno
makeup by Leana Ardeleanu
hair by Reiya Yamaoka
modeling by Gigi @ Let It Go

AUTRE: Where does your inspiration come from?

JAARA LANGE: Looking back, my art was born from a deep need to escape a world that was not safe for me. So, I created a world for myself accordingly. Even today, I am inspired by daydreams, science fiction, and fairy tales. I created my own world where I could exist, which was beautiful and dark at the same time. I think this deep experience still inspires me today.

 
 

AUTRE: What drew you to Gigi as a muse?

LANGE: Gigi is a powerhouse and role model for me at the same time. I don't know anyone who enters the room with such presence — that fascinates me a lot. In her I see strength, beauty, and above all, resilience. We are all very grateful for what she does for the Berlin trans community and as sisters we support each other.

 
 
 
 

AUTRE: Why is nature such a dominant subject in your photography practice?

LANGE: Nature has always fascinated me. It represents a place of refuge for me. Out in the green, I have always felt freer — nature is a space without condemnation or connotation. It forms a complete projection surface for me with its wealth of forms, surface structures, and change. It is the perfect stage for me. Today, I only need to embed my protagonists in nature as a stage, wait for the right light and the spectacle is complete. I find this fascinating every time anew, because it is also so simple.