Challenging the Gaze: A Photographic Homage to Sofonisba Anguissola by Arale Reartes & Saskia Schmidt


photography by Arale Reartes c/o Magali Mgmt
styling by Saskia Schmidt
Models Uzu at NEU 
Happy, Steve & Louis at IZAIO 
makeup and hair by Berenice Ammann
casting by Cameron Niedrick
movement by Leonardo D'Aquino
production by Magali Mgmt 
photography assistant Brenda Vazquez
production assistant Dominik Graf
stylist assistant Denys Sadovyi & Kamal Emanga
Location scout by Marco Wagner

Arale is wearing Haderlump leather pants.
Steve is wearing Miu Miu longsleeve and Fendi pants.
Lou is wearing Miu Miu longsleeve and Avenir pants.

Sofonisba Anguissola, one of the first female Renaissance painters to gain recognition, created a celebrated self-portrait during a time when women were often confined to the role of muses. To avoid openly challenging the patriarchal norms of her era, Anguissola rendered her self-portrait such that it appears as though she, the subject, is being painted by her master.

This photographic editorial draws inspiration from Anguissola’s work and reflects on the persistence of social limitations that, centuries later, continue to relegate women to secondary roles—as muses or caregivers—creating discomfort when we occupy spaces of power and artistic creation.

Just as Anguissola defied expectations through her painting, this photographic self-portrait series by Arale Reartes plays with the ambiguity of the act of portrayal. Although these are self-portraits, the male figures also hold remote triggers, deliberately creating confusion about the identity of the author and the subject. This ambiguity invites the viewer to question not only who the true creator of the image, but also to challenge preconceived ideas about women’s place in art and society.

Arale is wearing Paloma Wool dress.
Lou is wearing Our Legacy blazer and William Fan pants.
Uzu is wearing Coach coat and Avenir pants.

Arale is wearing Haderlump dress.
Happy is wearing Coach shirt and Fendi pants.

Arale is wearing Milk of Lime bra and Falke tights.
Lou is wearing Avenir pants.

Arale is wearing Milk of Lime skirt and Haderlump jacket.
Lou is wearing full look by William Fan.
Uzu is wearing full look by Haderlump.
Happy is wearing William Fan shirt and Fendi pants.

Arale is wearing Haderlump dress.
Lou is wearing Namilia coat. 
Uzu is wearing a Joseph skirt and Coach blazer. 
Steve is wearing Chenaski pants and Namilia blazer.
Happy is wearing Namilia pants and Our Legacy Jacket.

Discover El Affaire Miu Miu, Women's Tales #28 By Laura Citarella

EL AFFAIRE MIU MIU, directed by Laura Citarella, Argentine film director and producer, is the 28th commission from Miu Miu Women’s Tales. The acclaimed short-film series invites today’s most profound and original female directors to investigate vanity and femininity in the 21st century. Citarella continues to explore her ongoing interest in “female Sherlock Holmes” figures who try and solve the puzzle of “women that, for different reasons, run away.”

Miu Miu's Fall/Winter 2024 Collection Traces Life From Girlhood to Womanhood

The Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2024 collection by Miuccia Prada draws inspiration from the span and scope of people’s lives, its shifting clothing types reflective of the development of character, both personal and universal to form a vocabulary of clothing, from childhood to adulthood.

Concurrent gestures express different moments in life — they coexist within single outfits, just as we each hold simultaneous memories of our own experience. Evocations of childhood are expressed with deliberately shrunken proportions, cropped sleeves, and round-toed shoes; archetypical clothing types that directly recall those worn in youth. Childhood is a moment of impulsive, natural rebellion, here reflected in the liberation of a dichotomous mixing of different codifications of dress, pajamas with outerwear, proper with improper, right with wrong. By contrast, adulthood is expressed through recognized signifiers of propriety and chic — gloves and handbags, brooches, tailoring, the little black dress. Like mnemonic devices, clothes can make us both think back, and project forwards.

Those components of duality and recollection find counterparts in materials and construction. Bonding and fusing meld together different fabrics and combine disparate garments, sweaters and cardigans in silk and cashmere, poplin skirts with knit, while shearling is treated to mimic precious fur. Silk dresses are creased and molded to cotton jersey sheaths, volumes reduced with the impression of the original garment remaining, a trace of its antecedent.

As the collection reconsiders characteristic signifiers of life through the vocabulary of clothing, so our literal vocabulary can be readdressed. Girlishness is a word we can revalue, from a pejorative gendered noun, anchored to age, to a universal idiom expressive of the strength of rebellion, a spirit of freedom and individuality, one attribute of a richer whole. Perceived as an inherent component of Miu Miu, it should be examined not as a lone trait but as a fundamental aspect of a wider temperament — a notion expressed through a cast of personalities who each embody this ever-shifting Miu Miu persona. They include Dara Allen, Ethel Cain, Guillaume Diop, Luther Ford, Angel Hazody, Kristin Scott Thoe, Qin Huilan, Little Simz, Jasmin Savoy Brown and Ángela Molina, who also features in Miu Miu Women’s Tales.

Contemporaneity allows divergent creative processes to arrive at paradoxically correlated results. The Palais d’Iéna is punctuated by video installations created by the Belgian-American artist Cécile B. Evans, art considered as a tool to enrich and expand conversation around people. Conceived independently of the collection, by chance the notions of the survival of memory in their art finds echo within the clothes. This is a shared language, one informed by the moment we all live within, a universal message nevertheless resonant with our unique experience.

Zephyr by Prissilya Junewin & Maya Lu

full look: Prada

photography by Prissilya Junewin
styling by Maya Lu
hair by Dennis Brandt
make up by Jamal Musa
photographer assistant by Emi Iguchi
modeling by Looloo, Damrasi, Idi
casting by Majin Scouting
production by Kaputt Agency

full look: Miu Miu

top & skirt: Meryll Rogge
tie: Dior
boots: Scarrossa
bag: Jerome Dreyfuss

top: Issey Miyake

dress: Ferragamo

dress: No Faith Studios

jacket & skirt: Annakiki
shoes: Miu Miu

Coat: UGG

Backstage with Olivier Mohrińge by Lukas Goldschmidt

photography by Lukas Goldschmidt
styling by Olivier Mohringe
hair by Tina Pachta
makeup by Janette Peters and Darja Crainiucenco
set design by Nina Oswald
styling assistance by Vlada Kitaeva
hair assistance by Caroline Raick
modeling by Sandra @ MIHA Managament, Nastya @ Viva Models, Ana @ IZAIO Management, Celine and Zen @ A Management

Nastya wear dress by Miu Miu
boots by Balenciaga

Celine wears dress by & Other Stories
bag by Vagabond
rings by mussels and muscles

Nastya wears jumper by Raf Simons
boots by Balenciaga
bag by Vagabond

Sandra wears dress and earrings by Balenciaga
pumps by Steve Madden
bag by Agneel
ring by mussels and muscles

Zen wears top by Axel Arigato
skirt by Joseph
shoes by Vagabond
necklace by Bottega Veneta
earrings by mussels and muscles

Celine wears top by Jacquemus
pants by Aligne
earrrings by Sabrina Dehoff

Ana wears two-pieces by & Other Stories
boots by Iceberg
earrings by Sabrina Dehoff

Ana wears full look by Balenciaga
earrings by Sabrina Dehoff

Sandra wears dress by Wolford
earrings by Balenciaga
bag by Bottega Veneta
pumps by Scarcosso

Zen wears bodysuit by Falke
culottes by Joseph
earrings by Sabrina Dehoff
ring by Akind
bag by Jérôme Dreyfuss

Celine wears body by Ganni
pants by Ivy & Oak
earrings by Sabrina Dehoff
belt by Diesel
bag by Jérôme Dreyfuss
mules by Kurt Geiger

Zen wears trenchcoat by & Other Stories
tights by Falke
earrings by Vivienne Westwood
gloves by Roeckl
shoes by Vagabond

Zen wears two-piece by Ganni
tights by Falke

Celine wears pants by Ivy & Oak
earrings by Sabrina Dehoff
gloves by Roeckl
bag and belt by Diesel
shoes by Kurt Geiger

Nastya wears dress by Marc Cain
bag by Dior
mules by Ferragamo

INSTA FAMOUS By Diego Cruz & Zion Dezm

 

Lisa is wearing earring 1CONCEPT, top MIU MIU, skirt and thong VALERIEVI, tights TYTM8.

 


creative direction, art direction and casting: Diego Cruz & Zion Dezm
photography by Diego Cruz
styling by Zion Dezm, assisted by Andrea Brown
makeup by David Gillers, assisted by Mialuca Backus
hair by Moe, assisted by Jennifer Chan
Models: Lisa from PRM Model Agency
Arual & Olivia from Milk Management
Bertie from Anti Agency


Arual is wearing earrings 1CONCEPT, necklace and skirt MIU MIU, top NII HAI.

Lisa is wearing earring HEAVEN BY MARC JACOBS, top DOLCE & GABBANA.

Lisa is wearing bag HEAVEN BY MARC JACOBS, earring 1CONCEPT, ring and jumpsuit VALERIEVI.

Bertie is wearing shoes MIU MIU.

Olivia is wearing top R & M LEATHERS, dress PRADA, bag GIVENCHY.

Lisa is wearing earring 1CONCEPT, top DOLCE & GABBANA, thong NII HAI, skirt HEAVEN by MARC JACOBS, trousers PACO RABBANE, shoes GIVENCHY.

Bertie is wearing dress CHARLES JEFFREY.

left to right: Olivia is wearing necklace and earrings ALESSANDRA RICH, top JORDANLUCA, tights MM6, shoes MIU MIU.
Arual is wearing earring 1CONCEPT, dress CHRISTOPHER KANE, tights R & M LEATHERS, shoes NII HAI.
Lisa is wearing earring 1 CONCEPT, top and tights DOLCE & GABANNA, dress PACO RABANNE, shoes PRADA.


What Will I Become By Gabriella Rowland & Nicolas Robin Hobbs

coat: RICHERT BEIL
shirt: Prada (stylist’s archive)
tie: Emporio Armani
bag: Celine


photography by Nicolas Robin Hobbs
photo assistance by Leo Köhler & Mengyu Zhou  
styling by Gabriella Rowland 
styling assistance by Bastian Hagn 
casting by Nicolas Robin & Gabriella Rowland 
hair by Bronwyn Stewart
makeup by Naomzz 
talent by MARIAM D @ MIRRRS, KARINA & JOANNA @ Tomorrow Is Another Day
Special thanks to Effi at TIAD



coat: RICHERT BEIL
shirt: Prada (stylist’s archive)
tie: Emporio Armani

LEFT
top: vintage (solastseason Archive) 
skirt: Gucci (solastseason Archive) 
shoes: Celine 
ring: JOHANNA GAUDER

RIGHT
top: Blumarine (solastseason Archive) 
skirt & bag: Diesel 
shoes: CAMPER

LEFT
jacket: Cottonade Paris (solastseason Archive) 
tights: Diesel
bag: Diesel
shoes: Balenciaga (solastseason Archive)

RIGHT
coat: RICHERT BEIL
shirt: Prada (stylist’s archive)
tie: Emporio Armani
tights: Falke
shoes: Bottega Veneta (NIGHTBOUTIQUE Archive)
bag: Celine

suit: Miu Miu
knitwear: Miu Miu
shoes: Diesel
rings: INA BEISSNER



Spirit Of Ecstasy: The Beauty Of The First Try By Tristan Roesler

leather jacket: Versace
top: CELINE
mini skirt: Versace
heels: Versace

photography by Tristan Roesler
styling by Camille Franke
model Jee at Izaio Management
makeup by Sabina Pinsone
hair by Kosuke Ikeuchi
casting by Kyra Sophie, Olga Sikorska & Ananya
fashion assistance by Sarah Masche & Finn Schiffmann
photo assistance by Lewis Berninger

full look: MIU MIU
necklace: Swarovski
socks: Octobre
heels: Versace

 

full look: Balenciaga
earrings: Swarovski
shoes: William Fan

 

sunglasses: CELINE
earrings: Swarovski
dress: CELINE

full look: Hèrmes

dress: Loewe
shoes: Ganni

necklace: Swarovski
corsage: Mugler

Miu Miu Type x Maxfield Gallery Launch To Celebrate The New Miu Miu Alphabet

Miu Miu Type is a capsule collection featuring poplin shirts, cotton hoodies and track pants that will be patched with one, two or three letters from the Miu Miu alphabet. A female face or body interlaced with a letterform coming together to create an alphabet of gestures created in collaboration with Miuccia Prada by M/M Paris for the Fall 2018 Collection.

Read Our Round-Up Review of Paris Fashion Week 2015 →

Again, I will have to touch upon what makes this particular round unique to the industry and important for fashion. But honesty, do I actually need to make an argument concerning Paris and its total domination of conceptual fashion? OK, here’s an argument for you: Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yammamoto, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela, Junya Wattanabe, Olivier Rousteing, and need I continue? A lot happens at Paris: some bad, some good, and some utterly transcendent. It’s too much to write about really. It’s the longest of the fashion weeks and it can be easy to forget about incredible shows mere days after they happened. Today as I am baffled yet excited over the announcement of Demna Gvasalia of Vetements being named creative director to Balenciaga while former Balenciaga godhead Nicolas Ghesquiere continues to alter the fabric of what we know to be Louis Vuitton, I almost forgot that Rick Owens put on the funniest and most conceptual collection of the week. So another season is over, and the buying begins. See you at the menswear shows. Click here to read the full review. Text by Adam Lehrer. 

An Exclusive Sneak-Peek At the New Fondazione Prada in Milan

For the last two decades, the Fondazione Prada has held numerous ground-breaking exhibitions, but without a permanent place to call home. An avid collector and matriarch of the Prada and Miu Miu brands, Miuccia Prada has been exhibiting artists like Dan Flavin and Anish Kapoor in a ramshackle assortment of shifting industrial buildings in Milan, Venice and elsewhere in the world. Yet, tomorrow will see the opening of a permanent campus in Milan – designed Rem Koolhaas, the new home of the Fondazione Prada will occupy more than 200,000 square-feet of a century-old distillery in Milan, which has been completely transformed by the Dutch architect and his firm OMA. Indeed, there is a lot to explore at the new foundation – including inaugural exhibitions, like Serial Classic, which plays with classic Roman sculpture, you can also view a new Roman Polanski film in the newly added theater, or you can visit the Haunted House – a permanent installation of late the Louise Bourgeois’ sculptural work. After exploring the expansive space, you can stop and have a cocktail at Bar Luce, which has been designed by the director Wes Anderson, and is inspired by the Milanese cafés of the 1970s. Autre was lucky enough to gather a sneak-peek of the space before it’s official opening – browse through photos to see the exhibitions, the architecture and the perfectly kitschy café. photographs by Juanco Viso for Autre Magazine.