Stitched in Place: Do Ho Suh at the Tate Modern

The Genesis Exhibition Do Ho Suh at Tate Modern © Tate Photography (Jai Monaghan)

text by Poppy Baring

Do Ho Suh’s first major London exhibition at the Tate Modern showcases decades of his work that touches on themes that bring the importance of home back into audiences’ hearts. The title of the exhibition Walk The House derives from the Korean expression Hanok regarding a traditional house that can be packed up, transported and re-assembled across space and time. Originally from Seoul and now living in London, Suh has lived and worked across many continents. Walk The House involves impressive ghostly fabric structures, time-worn graphite rubbings, and intricate drawings that are to be experienced physically but also ask viewers to look introspectively at their own inner worlds.

The overwhelming size of some of these works contrasts against meticulous drawings and delicate watercolors and while the former risks overshadowing the latter, this contrast is precisely the point. By juxtaposing the grand with the intricate, Suh shows that memory does not exist at a single scale. We remember our homes and their rooms, while also holding onto the small elements that fill them. Perfect Home: London, Horsham, New York, Berlin, Providence, Seoul 2024, presented for the first time, demonstrates this well and is at the heart of this emotional experience. Here, Do Ho Suh outlines his current home and partners this with architectural features from previous spaces he and his family have inhabited. 

Rubbing/Loving Project: Seoul Home, 2013–2022 is the first and one of the most powerful works exhibited. Newly reconstructed but made over several months, the large-scale wall installation was created using a practice which in itself is meditative. The artist’s childhood home was covered with Hanji (mulberry paper) and gently rubbed with graphite capturing its structure and all its blemishes, which were enhanced by the elements the paper was left exposed to. This process mirrors how we recall our own homes—not as exact images, but through textures, sensations, and fragments of detail.

Do Ho Suh Nests, 2024. Courtesy the Artist and Lehmann Maupin New York, Seoul and London and Victoria Miro. Photography by Jeon Taeg Su © Do Ho Suh

Visitors continue to move through the colorful corridors of Nests, 2024, where Suh stitches together rooms, hallways, and entryways from buildings in Seoul, New York, London, and Berlin. These liminal spaces, often passed through without thought, become the focus, transformed into a fluid architecture that defies the logic of solid buildings. These in-betweens embody the shifting nature of memory and migration, like walking through the echo of a home that never fully was, but somehow feels known.

Suh’s films: Robin Hood Gardens, 2018 and Dong In Apartments, 2022, underscore the ever-changing layout of cities like London and Daegu. They show built environments as malleable living things that continue to be loved, destroyed, rebuilt and changed alongside the rest of us. This rich and colorful exhibition and the themes it touches on are as relevant as they have ever been with pieces reflecting on how political unrest coat our memories of time and space. Home is something to be reminded of and while some reviews have suggested the exhibition feels overcrowded, perhaps that is not far off from most people’s lived experience of where and how they live their lives.

The Genesis Exhibition: Do Ho Suh: Walk the House is on view through October 19th 2025 at the Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1 9TG.

The Artistry of Azzedine Alaïa and Thierry Mugler meets in a celebration of their shared vision in Paris

 

Veste en astrakan d’Azzedine Alaïa, 1980. © Julien Vidal

 

text by Eva Megannety

The legacy of two fashion visionaries intertwines in a new exhibition at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, where the artistry of Alaïa and Thierry Mugler meets in a celebration of their shared vision. Running from March 3rd to June 29th, 2025, this retrospective honors the friendship and creative affinities between the two designers, offering a rare glimpse into their personal and professional bond.

Azzedine Alaïa found a kindred spirit in Thierry Mugler, whose larger-than-life creations and theatrical approach to fashion were as iconic as the silhouettes he designed. Their relationship began in 1979, when Mugler invited Alaïa to design tuxedos for his autumn-winter 1979-80 collection. The collaboration marked the beginning of a decade-long friendship that would leave an indelible mark on the fashion world.

In this exhibition, over forty works from Mugler’s archive are displayed alongside Alaïa’s own creations, allowing visitors to see how their shared creative spirit manifested in their designs. From Alaïa’s impeccable craftsmanship to Mugler’s bold experimentation with shape and form, the two designers were united by a mutual respect that transcended the runway. Both were masters of the female form, crafting garments that enhanced and empowered, each piece telling a story of elegance, strength, and sensuality.

Alaïa’s reputation as a perfectionist who favored intimate settings and close relationships with his clients contrasted with Mugler’s penchant for dramatic spectacles and larger-than-life fashion shows. Yet, together, they influenced each other in profound ways. Mugler’s theatrical flair found a new sophistication in Alaïa’s structured designs, while Alaïa’s meticulous attention to detail encouraged Mugler to refine his aesthetic and focus on the body’s natural lines. Their shared vision culminated in the 1980s, when both designers elevated glamour to new heights, drawing inspiration from the silhouettes of the 1930s and 1950s.

This exhibition is not only a celebration of two extraordinary designers but also a testament to the enduring power of collaboration. Alaïa’s dedication to preserving and enhancing his own work—through his foundation and vast personal archive—ensures that the dialogue between him and Mugler will continue to inspire future generations of designers and fashion lovers alike.

The Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, located at 18 rue de la Verrerie in Paris, remains a cultural beacon, housing not only Alaïa’s collections but also a space for art, design, and creative expression. The exhibition invites visitors to immerse themselves in the world of two legendary couturiers whose mutual admiration and creative exchange left an indelible mark on the fashion industry.

 
 

Thierry Mugler and Azzedine Alaïa 1980/1990: Two decades of artistic affinities is on view March 3 to June 29, 2025 at Saillard Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, 18 rue de la Verrerie, Paris 4e