Rideau Spring Summer 2017 Presentation During New York Fashion Week: Men's
photographs by Adam Lehrer
Click here to read the full review. photographs by Adam Lehrer
From the very beginning, Vetements connected with fashion lovers not because of how different it was, but because of how oddly familiar it is. Demna Gvasalia and his radical collective of European designers are primarily interested in the ways that mainstream products have been co-opted and used by various sub-cultures as signifiers, protectors, and weapons. Demna will tell any interviewer that asks that Vetements is not a βconceptualβ brand; that itβs really βjust about clothes,β as the brandβs name would lead you to believe. But the fact of the matter, the βjust clothesβ mantra is conceptual in and of itself. Demna, and stylist Lotta Volkolva, use the identities of clothes to extrapolate ideas from them: a hoodie sized to this means X and jeans with this particular cut mean Y. Itβs almost like the viewer or the wearer can project his or her own ideas onto the clothes, like a blank canvas. The skinhead and his bomber jacket, the DJ and his tracksuit, the model and her stilettos: Vetements constantly finds new ways of looking at products weβve seen, and probably worn, 1000 times. Click here to read more.
Metallica is a quintessential American band. However, there is nothing American about Brioni (an Italian menswear brand founded in Rome in 1945) and there is nothing American about its new creative director Justin OβShea (a former womenswear buyer who hails from Toowoomba, Australia). So, its interesting and very bold that OβShea would ask the heavy metal band if they would be the new face of Brioni, a stale brand that he hopes to reinvigorate with a bit of American cool and muscle car masculinity, mixed with Brioniβs lineage of tailored Italian gentlemanliness. Today β Independence Day β also happens to be the same day that OβShea is showing the first collection under his direction during Paris Couture Week. Brioni has also released the first of a series of short films directed by a London-based filmmaker Danny Sangra. Most of the films star OβShea as a caricature of himself, which Sangra has written to perfection. The character could be described as exigent, obtuse, out of touch, and self obsessed β everything that you may expect from someone so entrenched in the fashion world. In Brioniβs standout film β starring James, Lars, Kirk and Robert β OβShea plays a ditz who has no idea who Metallic is. Itβs silly and ridiculous, but fun and Sangra is too talented of a filmmaker to not pull it off. We got a chance to ask Sangra about the new Brioni campaign, collaborating with the brandβs new creative director and what the hell it was like to work with Metallica. Click here to read more.
"The first time I got dressed elegantly was for the wedding of my parents when I was 7 years old. I was very touched by the party, the champagne, the outfits, the mood... I had been looking forward to enjoying it as well ! In love with an angel, tonight is a celebration of what we all appreciate the most in the world : free love. This feeling I do my best to feed all the time motivated me to create a collection around the theme of a wedding. More comfortable in the creation and technically, this eleventh collection is an interpretation of how I see my witnesses. I wish you all a good time." Text by StΓ©phane Ashpool, Pigalle's designer.
Paris Fashion Menβs Week was in typical fine form, re-invigorating my own lust for fashion after a dreary Milan and an uneven London. Though the two shows Iβm usually most excited for, those by Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy, already played out in Florence, their absence didnβt deter my attention. That would be mainly because of one man: Demna Gvasalia. Demna introduced Balenciagaβs first menswear show in history. The expectations between that notion, not to mention Vetements being the coolest brand in fashion and all that, were colossal. How did Demna respond to this soul crushing pressure? Click here to read more.
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