text by Parrie Chhajed
In Louis Vuittonβs Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, Pharrell Williams looks east, not for ornament, but for essence. India emerges not as a motif but as a moodboard: one defined by color, craft, and quiet charisma. Far from the reductive tropes often seen in luxury fashionβs attempts to βglobalize,β Williamsβ India is observational, tactile, and purposefully translated.
The show set, created in collaboration with celebrated architect Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai, was a towering hand-painted wooden interpretation of Snakes and Ladders, Indiaβs traditional board game. It was an immediate statement: playful, rooted in storytelling, and intentionally handcraftedβan homage to Indiaβs material cultures rather than its monuments. A.R. Rahmanβs βYaara Punjabiβ set the sonic tone, blending seamlessly into the aesthetic narrative.
Williams and his team spent time in New Delhi, Mumbai, and Jaipur in the lead-up to the collection, absorbing India not through fashion history books but by walking through markets, workshops, and city streets. βYou wonβt see any tunics or anything like that,β Williams said backstage. βWhat we were inspired by from India were the colors.β And indeed, the palette tells the story. Black is replaced with a regal purple-blue. Camel becomes a dusty beige. Denim appears in a never-seen-before βcoffee indigo,β inspired by Indian filter coffee and designed to fade gracefully into white thread, like sun-worn cotton.
The silhouettes, too, reflect this shiftβfrom conventional tailoring to something more intuitive. Think relaxed pleated trousers worn with leather flip-flops, pajama-stripe jackets, robe coats, and flowing layers. Thereβs a sense of ease here that feels lived-in rather than styled, a softness that alludes to Indiaβs informal luxuryβthe kind found in hand-pressed cotton, creased linen, and clothes shaped by climate.
A particularly poetic detail: Louis Vuitton resurrects the animal motifs originally created for The Darjeeling Limited (2007), revisiting its visual dialogue with India in a new context. Hand-embroidered zebras, palm trees, and cheetahs reappear across cashmere coats, safari jackets, and luggageβa cinematic nod refined for the runway.
Yet this was no costume drama. The collection delivered on commercial pragmatism with buttery leather outerwear, clean-cut blazers, tonal shirts, and the Maisonβs signature monogrammed baggage. Everyday wear was elevated with micro-beading, metallic threadwork, and even a shell suit fully woven from metal yarn. Thereβs experimentation, but it's controlled, audacious without being theatrical.