Saint Laurent Men's Summer 27 by Anthony Vaccarello Presentation At Bourse de Commerce

Saint Laurent’s Summer 2027 Men’s collection by Anthony Vaccarello unfolds inside the Bourse de Commerce — Pinault Collection, where architecture, atmosphere, and absence become inseparable from the clothes themselves. The circular structure—designed by Tadao Ando Architect & Associates, Niney et Marca Architectes, and Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier—grounds the presentation in a language of restraint: concrete, proportion, and light forming a silent, continuous frame for what is revealed within it.

At the center of the experience is Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156 (2026), an immersive fog installation that transforms the rotunda into a shifting field of visibility and disappearance. As mist fills the space, the building ceases to function as a static container and instead becomes a breathing environment—one in which bodies and garments appear, dissolve, and re-emerge like fragments of thought.

Vaccarello’s collection is anchored in a provocation: “Nobody is trying to seduce you. What makes them seductive is that they do not need to.” From this premise, the show considers desire not as accumulation but as withdrawal—what happens when drama, noise, and excess are withheld rather than amplified. Across 40 looks, restraint becomes its own form of intensity.

Tailoring is sharpened into new proportions: a three-button jacket cut higher on the body, paired with narrow flat-fronted or softly pleated trousers; familiar Saint Laurent codes—the waistcoat, the ribbed V-neck sweater—recalibrated through precision rather than reinvention. Even athletic blousons appear refined, rendered in unexpectedly delicate technical taffeta. Gold threads through the collection not as ornament but as transformation, turning the utilitarian trench into something heightened yet still functional. The palette remains grounded—grey, brown, black, beige—punctuated by flashes of orange, ochre, claret, lime, powder blue, and shimmering gold.

The collection is informed by figures who treated restraint as a form of expression: Marguerite Duras, Tina Chow, and the fictional Mr. Ripley. Each, in different ways, embodies Vaccarello’s central idea that omission can be more powerful than declaration. As the notes frame it: “It is refusal, perhaps, that most powerfully fuels desire.” And further: “We have forgotten the pleasure of the unknown, the unseen and the unspoken.”

The presentation extends this philosophy into space and choreography. Models move through Cloud #07156 in a sixteen-minute sequence, emerging and dissolving within Nakaya’s fog. Here, clothing is never fully fixed in view. Instead, it becomes part of an atmosphere where presence is temporary, and disappearance is designed. The installation is not a backdrop but an active force—another articulation of absence, restraint, and desire in motion.

"Back Side / Fashion from Behind", An Off-Site Exhibition @ Musée Bourdelle In Paris

In a society that is obsessed with people’s faces, "Back Side / Fashion from Behind" is an original and unexpected theme. By addressing our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view, the exhibition questions the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs.

The exhibition spreads across the Great Hall of Plasters, the contemporary Portzamparc extension and Antoine Bourdelle’s studio. The models on display establish a dialogue between fashion and sculpture, a dialogue with the works of this great master of the turn of the 20th century. "Back Side – Fashion from Behind" gives us a new take on the works of Bourdelle: we look with new eyes at the powerful, muscular backs and the slender outlines of his sculptures. "Back Side / Fashion from Behind"  is on view through November 15 at Musée Bourdelle 18, rue Antoine-Bourdelle, Paris 15e. photographs courtesy of Palais Galliera

Saint Laurent Special Zine Collaboration With Artist Mitchell Syrop

Tonight, Saint Laurent will be showing its new collection in the form of a runway show meets rock concert at the iconic Hollywood Palladium. The coveted invite, which was carefully delivered to Autre's doorstep, included a special zine collaboration between Saint Laurent and artist Mitchel Syrop, who is represented by Los Angeles based gallery Francois Ghebaly. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper

A David Bowie Concert Diary By Hedi Slimane

This year marks the 10th year of Hedi Slimane's "Diary." With the passing of David Bowie, it is only fitting that we dig into Slimane's diary and explore some images he took of Bowie for a Stage book project in 2014. In one interview Slimane remarked, "I was literally born with a David Bowie album in my hand." Currently at the helm of Saint Laurent, Slimane is gearing up for a presentation of the label's fall 2016 collection at the Palladium in Los Angeles on February 10th. photographs by Hedi Slimane

Read Our Round-Up Review of Paris Fashion Week 2015 →

Again, I will have to touch upon what makes this particular round unique to the industry and important for fashion. But honesty, do I actually need to make an argument concerning Paris and its total domination of conceptual fashion? OK, here’s an argument for you: Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yammamoto, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela, Junya Wattanabe, Olivier Rousteing, and need I continue? A lot happens at Paris: some bad, some good, and some utterly transcendent. It’s too much to write about really. It’s the longest of the fashion weeks and it can be easy to forget about incredible shows mere days after they happened. Today as I am baffled yet excited over the announcement of Demna Gvasalia of Vetements being named creative director to Balenciaga while former Balenciaga godhead Nicolas Ghesquiere continues to alter the fabric of what we know to be Louis Vuitton, I almost forgot that Rick Owens put on the funniest and most conceptual collection of the week. So another season is over, and the buying begins. See you at the menswear shows. Click here to read the full review. Text by Adam Lehrer.