Museum Pieces: Art Historical Excavation & Attaining Material Persistence Beyond the Contemporary

Mixed-media sculptor Skylar Haskard reprocesses the ‘lost and found’ of greater Los Angeles into labile statements of hybrid corporeality.

Skylar Haskard
detail of Kid-Nap-eee, 2025
photo by Hannah Bhuiya

text by Hannah Bhuiya

“We have not found a dozen reliefs, but a whole artistic period that lay buried and forgotten!” —Alexander Conze, 1878 (archaeologist and director of the Berlin Museums) upon the rediscovery of the Pergamon Altar.1

“Never retrieve a dirty tennis ball before breakfast.” —Snoopy’s Philosophy, Charles M. Schulz, 1977. 2

As a child, I always wanted to be an archeologist. (I became a writer instead.*)

A ‘midden’ is the archeological term for a repository of the discarded remnants of past human settlement. These inadvertently preserved trash piles are heaped full of evidence of our quotidian existence: cracked mollusk shells, their soft valves devoured. Animal jaws with teeth attached, once prized cutting and scraping tools. Food scraps: split seeds, gnawed bones, peeled skins. Broken pottery, fingerprints still pressed in the clay. Bodily excretions hardened into stony coprolites. The layers of accumulated refuse become revelatory strata, which, like those in which fossils are found, deliver telling clues. By digging through what has now crumbled into dirt, the diet, trade-route access and labor division of the location’s long-dead inhabitants can be reconstituted. The irony, of course, is that a midden pile or pit was never meant to be preserved—it’s just there. Wholly unlike a carefully dug burial chamber or proud hilltop temple, precisely laid with sacred objects and precious offerings symbolically placed, these common waste dumps only survived because no one ever thought to move them. These heaps of cross-generational refuse that grew without plan, before the cities they served were abandoned or obliterated by a cataclysm. This uncontrived origin means that the stories it offers up are raw, bare, honest. A midden tells the truth. 

The Pergamon Altar, 2nd century BCE, Pergamon Museum, Berlin via Smarthistory/Flickr

The Pergamon Altar, 2nd century BCE, Pergamon Museum, Berlin via The Museologist

The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is one of a series of monumental structures built by the order of a succession of Prussian kaisers from 1830 to 1930. It is a central edifice of ‘Museuminsel,’ an unstable artificial island protrusion reclaimed from the muck of the Spree River. It houses, as its name suggests, the “Pergamon Altar”. ‘Pergamum’ (now Bergama, Türkiye) was an important outpost of Alexander the Great’s empire, and the majestic marble friezes were transported block by block to Germany upon their rediscovery. The endeavor can be construed as either a rescue mission or an opportunistic theft.3 Also housed inside the museum are life-size reconstructions of the Ishtar Gate of Babylon in bull-and-lion embossed blue glazed brick (circa 575 BCE), and the imposing Market Gate of Miletus (2nd century CE). Despite the goals of kings and later, the State, to enshrine imperial and then national strength in great architecture, the grand idea to set buildings full of weighty ancient stones upon a 40-meter-deep mud layer was not at all practical. Visitors to modern Berlin notice the large pink pipes in the area, through which the groundwater gush is pumped upwards; it is a constant hydrological battle to keep the reclaimed land claimed. The museum’s walls and the gargantuan, transplanted urban infrastructure they house are calculated powertecture, both ‘restored’ in a patchwork of ‘original’ and impersonated elements. A museum does not tell the truth.

When I first moved to LA, I read a quote about Aldous Huxley’s own late 1930s relocation from Europe, which set up a direct correspondence between golden California and the Golden Age of Ancient Greece. I remember that the paragraph was in a book and on the left-hand side of the page and although I did not note the exact words, the idea they conveyed has never left me. It went something like, “with its abundant sunlight, ocean, and year-round Mediterranean climate, Los Angeles possesses all the essential factors to become a new Athens on the Pacific;” that the city-states shared a rare set of natural conditions and latitudinal band (34° N and 37.9° N, respectively) that had already proven their potential as a crucible for intellectual flowering. This was a place with endless toga weather, where the body and mind could resonate in peak health. Where those attracted to dwell here could lead the planet into a glowing new age of philosophy and peace. While the City of Angels has undoubtedly made massive contributions to global creative culture, we all know that’s not what happened. At all. Whatever glimpses there are of any Utopian ‘harmonic order’ are quickly eclipsed by the eyewitnessed reality of life at street level. The lost quote that I never wrote down is merely a tantalizing ideation of ‘what might have been.’

 

Skylar Haskard
Ran$om, 2025
photo by Paul Salveson

 

Ten years later, the fecund, roiling miasma that is the Los Angeles contemporary art scene delivered a way to integrate the fascinations above. This came in the form of a chance encounter with Skylar Haskard at a screening at Emma Fernberger Gallery on Western Avenue of T.S.O.Y.W. (2007), a dual-screen, over three-hour-long film by Drew Heitzler and Amy Granat. Patterned after The Sorrows of Young Werther by Goethe. Playing protagonist in the atmospheric literary-art film was not ‘an actor,’ but in fact, an(other) artist. Mainly silent, Haskard delivered a brooding young Werther for the 21st century, wending over Southwest roads on a Harley-Davidson. His singular passage was followed by two cameras capturing the real-time monotony of dry desert highways, punctuated by American monuments, landmarks such as Spiral Jetty, Roden Crater and the Hoover Dam. I was soon to discover that Haskard, a practitioner of what he has described as the ‘humorous conceptualism’ of Los Angeles, is a bricoleur extraordinaire. A closer look at his recent work opens up a conversation about how ‘the city’ functions to generate art that reflects itself. And into the powerful urge that, across time and space, compels independent artists to continue to create it.

A tall international American with a layered British-West Coast timbre, Skylar was born in LA in 1977. Being raised partly in London, he later completed his BFA at Glasgow School of Art in Scotland, a renowned incubator of aesthetic rebelliousness. The young graduate was then lured back to the USA to enter the ‘New Genres’ MFA program at UCLA, where instructors included California’s finest boundary-pushers Chris Burden and Paul McCarthy, as well as Swiss eccentric Pipilotti Rist. “At the time, I was very much invested in the performative, particularly in terms of materials, and of course, ‘The Body.’ I was building sprawling maximalist installations, then setting them up in different locations, mainly outside. Modular, architectural things that would then find their way into the gallery space, in whatever state they were in.” 

Skylar Haskard
The Man Who Works, 2025
photo by Paul Salveson

Visiting We Blue It, Haskard’s most recent solo show at Chapman University’s Guggenheim Gallery, I am confronted first by four major works built on circular trampoline bases set at an angle to the floor, with truncated body parts and sliced furniture emerging from their blue-painted discs. One figure, sporting a Pepto-Bismol pink canine snout, wrists bound, is splayed astride a generic white Monobloc-pressed plastic chair, sliced in half. A chopped-up odalisque with a ratty Powerade-blue wig is titled “The Melancholy of a Beautiful Day,” after de Chirico, suggesting that she is reeling, overcome with beauty. “Ran$om” is a Froot-Loops cereal bag-clutching man, encircled by a plush snake. Details: a toy gift heart, the protruding pink tongues, oversized joke-store teeth, tease and surprise. Around the walls are set smaller works depicting everyone’s favorite cartoon dog, Snoopy, drifting out to sea upon an incongruous wire cage, and another dog, strapped with a hobo bindle. Most are sketches on paper, with one distinct in blue biro, Sharpie, and flat paint on thick plywood. An Absurdist fusion of cannibal slaughterhouse and a defunct Toys ‘R’ Us, it’s all somewhat deranged, but the bright, friendly colors make it fun and ‘funny’ too. 

Skylar Haskard
The Melancholy of a Beautiful Day, 2025
photo by Paul Salveson

Haskard devised a rough-and-ready method to more quickly birth his life-size humanoids, several of whom are also missing arms or legs. “I’m always trying to work with things that already exist. I’d bought a set of mannequin-makers molds from a guy who had gone into retirement—I liked the idea that these bodies were not only sculpted, but also ‘found.’ Then I came up with basically the shittest way possible of casting them, and the quickest, using plaster and detritus from around the studio.” The result was that the ‘bulk’ of the figures is formed using expanding polyurethane foam. It’s a very flexible technique, in stark opposition to those necessary for hefty marmoreal constructs of similar proportions. “Say I need an arm here, or a part of a torso, I take the mold in two parts, and spray a very thin layer of plaster into that, and then I’ll build it up, let the plaster dry, put bits of cardboard in, some wire. Everything is material to me. I sometimes go to Costco and collect all the cardboard there, ’cause then I don’t have to spend so much on the foam. Because I’m not dealing with stone, this is detritus and waste, and it’s about employing strategies to try to make that stable.” The semiotic language of the show is in continuum with motifs Haskard has been circulating for several years (the hobo dog, the upturned thumb sconces, and reworked chairs are a longtime obsession), but lent a new orientation: “The current pieces were originally weird assemblages of figures and dogs and other stuff, and they just weren’t working. Then I started sawing everything in half. I realized that this profile, or ‘relief’ form was really freeing me up—I was getting two sculptures out of one, and I could also put them on the wall.”

A panoply of art history’s greatest hits stepped up to inform the progression from Eureka moment to actualization. “You’re not really aware of the intricacies of reliefs until you’re actually making them. So I looked at the Pergamon Altar, which brings along with it the complexities surrounding how the stones were recovered by German archeologists and reconstructed in the museums of Berlin. At that time, the marble of the friezes was being crushed and burned to make lime mortar, or had been used to build other local structures—they dug it out of walls. I also looked to Trajan’s Column, and also Marcus Aurelius’ ‘Snail Column.’ Both have scenes of battle and war set around in a spiral, which ties in to what we’re living through now.” When what we’re living through now is to bear witness to a UFC ‘Octagon’ fighting cage being built right outside (what is left of) the Neoclassical White House (soon to have gaudy Corinthian capitals tacked onto its elegant Ionic columns) and a current President of the Republic who longs for his own Triumphal Arch, the assertion holds. The stuffed serpent twisting around one dismembered figure can also be linked to the fractured masterpiece ‘Laocoön and his Sons,’ currently on display in the Octagonal Court of the Museo Pio-Clementino at the Vatican Museums. Arguably the finest marble carving ever made, the composition derives from a Greek original of around 200BCE, but we only know it through this Roman copy made a couple of centuries later, lost and then unearthed again in 1506. The amputee of circumstance is currently again fitted with his original right arm, which only came to light in 1906, and was affixed in 1957.

Skylar Haskard
Untitled“ (Just Because), 2025
courtesy Guggenheim Gallery 

Skylar Haskard
Untitled (Tis Not Too Late), 2025
courtesy Guggenheim Gallery

The install dextrously offers an immediate antidote to the horror factor present in the central pieces via the comforting and familiar figure of Charles Schulz’s Snoopy, who features in multiple works set along the gallery perimeter. In one, Charlie Brown’s best friend floats on a wavy ocean in a cage with the line “Tis not too late to seek another world” from Alfred, Lord Tennyson’s Ulysses emblazoned above him. So, why Snoopy? “I really like to draw with ballpoint on plywood; you can be quite scribbly and expressive.” With this particular series, “these blobby shapes were coming out; I was like, “What are these things?” Then I realized that they all looked like Snoopy. That was the first time he popped up, completely unconsciously.” The enigmatic philosopher-pup has been included in this show, Skylar continues, because: “We blew it. It’s not working anymore. So now let’s trust the animal, let’s listen to him.” The Odyssean pups lead on to Haskard’s sensitively drawn ‘Hobo-Dog’ character in “Untitled (starburst fellow).” Dogs also deliver us to the street-level origin point of Western philosophy. In tandem with their remarkable sculpture, Ancient Greek culture produced distinct philosophical schools—their appreciation for the refinement of the physical form in sport and art was matched by pursuit of intellectual refinement via inquiry and debate. While the later Stoics taught from the shade of the ‘Stoa Poikile’ (the painted porch) in the center of Athens, insouciant pioneer Diogenes of Sinope willfully lived in a discarded wine amphora out on less-traversed streets. He lived like, as his contemporaries observed, a stray dog. He had nothing and wanted less, rejecting social mores, money, and grooming standards. Through him, our term ‘cynic’ derives from kynikos, ‘doglike.’ With his dry wit and practical wisdom in the face of numbing suburban inertia, Snoopy, or Peanuts creator Schulz, can be construed as one of the most influential modern cynics.

Skylar Haskard
Untitled (Lost at Sea Empty), 2025
photo by Hannah Bhuiya

Just as artifacts are dated from the carbon-bearing items found nearby them, I decide to pull back and examine the wider strata around Haskard. I deduce that Haskard is very much an artist’s artist; after all, I had met him in an art gallery flickering on the dual-screen, the avatar within the art. Wife Nevine Mahmoud is a sculptor of amorphous forms, mainly using marble, showing at the latest Frieze LA with Sebastian Gladstone, with whom Skylar exhibited his Rickle Works (chair-component assemblages and vitrine collages) in 2023. Not only did he study under Burden and McCarthy, around the time he left UCLA, he also became John Baldessari’s gardener. “We would sit around and have drinks. He didn’t have a green thumb much.” Gardening then, and now, reinforced Haskard’s dedication to the circular economy, on the most basic level. “I feel that composting is foundational for people to be educated in that whole cycle of reuse—holding nutrients and organic matter to feed into the cycle that exists beyond our control. There is a parallel there with reusing objects in art.” Baldessari then asked Haskard to collaborate on a piece that was a reinvention of an Allen Kaprow work, Apple Shrine, as part of the Art as Life retrospective at MOCA LA. “John didn’t really want to put that much energy into it, so he was like, ‘Why don’t you do this?’ I think the curators were a bit pissed. I spent a solid month at the Getty Research Institute in Allen Kaprow’s archives, and we’d meet every two weeks and go over ideas. Kaprow’s legacy is tied to the ‘happenings’ he did, but to me, he’s an incredible materialist. I’m far more into his use of materials, the elaborate installations he made out of found things.” This approach is evident in Haskard’s Squaresville Pio Pico solo in spring 2025, which brings to life the adventures of heroic Hobo Dog ‘Souperman,’ sceptred with a broomstick and seated in an upended wheelbarrow throne, anchored by a stack of gravy cans.

 

Skylar Haskard
Souperman (seated with stick), 2025
photo by Charles White

 

In 2016, Haskard was brought in to coordinate the landmark Rick Owens furniture show at MOCA LA. “I have to say that I keep my own work and my work for other artists quite separate. But here, I was injected into this world where design, art, and fashion were all one, and that to me was fascinating. For Michèle [Lamy], everything is ‘one big thing;’ there’s no separation between art and life. I think it really helped me approach my own art practice from a different place, like ‘Let’s get back to what your vision is,’ and I did. I started making work again, objects that could be categorized, formally, as ‘furniture,’ but were also about the body; I was trying to create a new, ergonomic relationship using furniture as sculpture.” Uncovering imagery of his work from this era, I am reminded of a statement by Robert Horvitz, found within one of the first critical reviews of the work of Chris Burden in 1976, wherein he claimed that the work resembled “isometric exercise equipment more than sculpture.”4 Rick and Michèle appreciated the series, selecting for their private collection Haskard’s tubular-chair-integrated-with-grey-hoody-guy “Body Object 1” (2017) as debuted at London’s DOMOBAAL gallery in a duo-show with his also-an-artist brother, Aubrey Haskard.

Skylar Haskard
Untitled (Body Object 1, ii), 2017
photo courtesy the artist

Skylar Haskard
Untitled (Body Object 2, ii), 2017
photo courtesy the artist

Continuing to sift through his extant digital footprint, I discover the time Haskard put in as Raymond Pettibon’s studio assistant, and also that he was part of the team which constructed French artist Vincent Lamouroux’s arresting Projection installation on Sunset Boulevard in 2015. I locate an Instagram post of the art worker up on a fully extended boom-lift, applying the obliterating whitewash to a palm tree. Everyone in LA remembers the strange ‘permanent snow-storm’ effect, which blanked out the entire 4301 Sunset Boulevard plot and was visible all the way up until 2023 when the old motel was finally demolished. The continuous actions of tireless ‘makers’ like this, even the smallest, has causal impact; the countless other jobs that support a dedicated contemporary practice are the connective tissue of the enmeshed ecosystems that sustain this boom-bust, rise-fall, but ultimately entropic, metropolis. 

On the subject of his city of birth, Skylar observes: “If you look at it on a map, LA’s on the edge of the world, and people here live like there’s nothing beyond it, you know? I’ve always felt where we’re decades ahead, here, is in the devolution of the world we live in. In one way or the other, it’s ever-present in all of our peripheral vision, and this manifests in a lot of the things you can see out on the street.” So, as I also often stop in my tracks in wonder at random compositions of street-side detritus, I ask Skylar about an amusing anthropomorph posted on his Instagram, wherein bare wooden slats tacked to a municipal post sprout fingered arms to reach out and ‘hug’ another shorter post. “I saw those in Frog Town. I don’t know who made them, but they’re just brilliant. They say pretty much what I want to express with my own work … I’m on the verge of trying to come up with some kind of ‘manifesto’ for myself. It’d have points like, “You will not show in galleries.” “You will make work and leave it where you make it.” Not exactly that, but something like that. And that piece, whoever did it, represents my feelings towards showing in galleries, or defined ‘art’ spaces. A lot of times, I’m trying to fit work into those more defined spaces to be able to show it. I’ve made so much work outside of those, a bit more guerrilla, because I firmly believe that my works are ongoing, and the only way that they come to appear ‘resolved’ is purely because time’s run out and they need to get into wherever they’re being shown. It’s hard for me to resolve things.… They’re all really collages. Ongoing collages.”

 

 Los Angeles, February 2026, photo by Skylar Haskard

 

And that contingent nature is what allows Haskard’s Pergamene contortions, which he chooses to craft from the brightly-colored matrix of our condition of consumer overload, to offer a biting snapshot of the conflict-molded contemporary psyche and our position at the End of (Art) History as digitized and virtual remixes take over from more corporeal formalism. When we discussed references, Skylar had noted Giovanni Anselmo’s Struttura che mangia (1968), literally, “structure that eats,”  as a key conceptual touchstone. The hinge of the seminal Arte Povera work is a head of lettuce set between a smaller and larger granite block, ‘secured’ with a copper wire. As the lettuce withers, it must be replaced by a human hand to stop the smaller block from falling, and potentially shattering. The city is that structure which eats. Work like this spits back what grows from its accumulated compost. Haskard’s rough-hewn hybrids tell the chaotic truth of life in our times, especially in Los Angeles, a place where grotesque imbalance is to be observed everywhere. The unholy tension of begging amputees passed by others with plastic-augmented bodies and lips pumped up to ideals uncanny. Bound into our own frameworks of comfort, we walk past persons making the street their philosophical pulpit, just like Diogenes, but we have become too cynical to stop and listen to what they have to say. 

 

Giovanni Anselmo
Sans titre, (granit, laitue, fil de cuivre), 1969
image via Centre Pompidou

 

Every era gets the art it ‘deserves.’ Commissioned by kings and conquerors, paid in war booty gold, artists of antiquity used valuable, durable stones cut with strenuous effort from the calcified cliffs of mountains formed millennia before as the seabed rose, because that is what they had access to. We have more access to more materials than ever imagined; global supply chains end in our laps. Because, whether cave painters or frieze carvers, artists have never truly worked alone. Each is dependent on access to supply chains and the alliance of commerce to material systems for their work to exist, just as each human being is. But we’re no longer reliant on Silk Road camels or buccaneers’ raids for access to the novel and exotic. It’s all only one click away. If the Ancient Greeks had discovered plastics, I do not doubt they would have used them to create colorful, vivacious art—spectral imaging has detected traces of bright-toned paint on the pale stone and even bronze of both their sculptural figures and architectural decor indicating that in their own time, this statuary was closer to department store mannequins than the austere purity we have received via blanched ruins and Renaissance mimicry.5 More than any time in history, this is a moment of ‘civilization’ versus environment. Froot Loops will revert to sugar, but their petroleum-derived LDPE plastic bag and the woven polypropylene of the trampoline mats will remain revenants much longer. Those billions of Monoblocs made so quickly, so cheaply, will overtake several human lifespans before they crack and warp. Still, they’ll never truly disappear, degrading into minute microplastics that last virtually forever. Even when the install has left the gallery on the back of his truck and been disassembled into constituent parts, on a molecular level they will last longer than marble, which began as seashells crushed into limestone, and will return to such, following the natural cycle. The elegant arms of the Vatican’s Laocoön will disintegrate long before we lose these spray-foam limbs. 

If the artists of antiquity had cracked the alchemy of petrochemical conversion, museums worldwide would be full of glass jars of plastic dust, not resonant masterpieces. The greatest artworks of our time are perhaps our vast landfill sites, our great middens. Trash heaps that encapsulate telling clues, and will allow researchers to time travel back to investigate our predilection for obsolescence after all digital communications are erased in a colossal Coronal Mass Ejection or solar EMP. And what of our museums, and their contents, that we set so much store by? In the far distant future, will the heavy angles of the Zumthor-Govan LACMA concrete bunker be dug out of the tar pit into which they will sink? Transported to another city as a prized possession, will its Brutalist style be fetishized and gloated over, walled inside another museum’s walls? With none of us left alive to defend the remnants of our material culture, would this be an act of theft, or preservation? Locked into a perpetual cycle of wonder-to-waste, and back again, what we create will inevitably come up against systems of rigorous re-evaluation, either as recovered beauty, dusted off to be prized again, or crushed to powder to make way for new shapes to reign.

As a child, I had always wanted to be an archeologist. I became a writer instead. *I’ve discovered that it’s almost the same thing.

“Scene 24” (The First Battle) from Trajan’s Column, 113 CE. Source: National Geographic / Direct reconstruction based on casts from the National Museum of Romanian History or Museum of Roman Civilization, via “Trajan’s Column — Reading an Ancient Comic Strip,”


1 Alexander Conze, “Greek Relief Sculpture”, 1887. ↩

2 Because we should always remember: “Whenever your spirits sag, or your day seems droopy, you can always cheer things up with a gem of thought from Snoopy!” by Charles M. Schulz, Hallmark, 1977. Snoopy’s Philosophy ↩

3 As discussed in the documentary Pergamon Altar – A Looted Monument?, 2023, Medea Film Factory, part of Who Owns History? The Battle Over Cultural Heritage. ↩

4 Robert Horvitz, ‘Chris Burden,’ Artforum, Volume XIV, No. 9, May 1976, pages 24-31. ↩

5 See Gods in Color: Painted Sculpture of Classical Antiquity, Vinzenz Brinkmann, Stiftung Archäologie, 2007; and Gods in Color: Polychromy in the Ancient World, issued in connection with the exhibition held October 28, 2017–January 7, 2018, at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco’s Legion of Honor. ↩

RIMOWA Enters The Visionary World Of Rick Owens

The Rick Owens x Rimowa collaboration is a striking union of functionality and artistic vision, blending Rimowa’s storied craftsmanship with Rick Owens’ distinctive, avant-garde aesthetic. The result is a suitcase that bridges the gap between luxury travel and contemporary design, offering a unique take on both utility and style. The standout feature of the suitcase is its patinated aluminium finish, a design element that evokes a raw, industrial sensibility while maintaining an air of sophistication. This material choice aligns with Owens’ signature aesthetic, which often leans into textured surfaces and a sense of timeless durability. Inside, the suitcase continues to innovate with an entirely leather-lined interior—a first in Rimowa’s 125-year history. From the dividers to the lining, the leather finish introduces an element of old-world refinement, creating an interior that feels as thoughtfully designed as the exterior. The juxtaposition of the suitcase’s rugged outer shell with its luxurious interior reflects the duality that defines both brands: Rimowa’s precision engineering and Owens’ creative edge. Rick Owens, a longtime Rimowa user, approaches design with a focus on essentialism, a philosophy that is evident in this collaboration. Owens has stated that his goal is to reduce life to its core necessities, which is mirrored in the suitcase’s minimalist yet striking design. “No matter how far or long, I only bring one carry-on. I wanted the outside finish to recall a bronze from Giacometti, Brâncuș I, or Richard Serra, and I wanted the interior to feel like the touch of a black leather glove.” Rick Owens added: “I don't need much, but I like my bare necessities to be as supernatural as possible.” The collaboration is highly exclusive, with only 500 pieces being released worldwide. This limited availability emphasizes the project’s collectible nature, appealing to those who value both utility and artful design in their travel accessories. In essence, the Rick Owens x Rimowa suitcase serves as a functional travel companion that doubles as a statement piece. It offers a fresh perspective on luxury, challenging traditional notions of what high-end luggage can represent while remaining true to both brands’ core identities.

Starting January 30th, 2025, the RIMOWA x Rick Owens Original Cabin Bronze (RRP 2900 €) will be made available at select RIMOWA and Rick Owens stores worldwide and online at RIMOWA.com and RickOwens.eu.

Moncler's Citizens of The City of Genius Dream of Utopia for Fashion Week in Shanghai

 
 

10 designer neighborhoods, 10 unique experiences, 10 extraordinary collections, 1 source of inspiration: The City of Genius.

The live show is the ultimate expression of creativity thriving amidst dissolving boundaries, enabling different worlds and cultural backgrounds to inspire one another in a genuine act of co-creation. Fueled by Shanghai’s vibrant spirit and magic energy, it is a place where local and international creative talent unite, guided by the childhood genius that lives within all of us.

The City of Genius embraced Shanghai’s inspiring culture of innovation and heritage, driving deep connections with local visionaries and international talent from diverse spheres of influence and cultural perspectives, at the apex of global culture, in a worldwide exchange of creativity. 

The spirit of co-creation brought together traditional and modern methods of creativity, connecting Chinese and global culture spanning art, film, music and entertainment. The show featured an installation by iconic artist Xu Bing, and his creative reimagination of language was woven throughout event communications, the show venue, the livestream, and the accompanying campaign. To touch language is to get in tune with the very beating heart of culture. The art installation astounds with its spectacular beauty. Bing’s work was shot by photographer and filmmaker Wing Shya, who created The City of Genius manifesto film starring Moncler global brand ambassador, Leah Dou.

The unforgettable show finale featured a one-of-a-kind live showcase by creative performance director Henry Lau, surrounded by dancers, musicians, and a dazzling sound and light display designed exclusively for the event. Henry Lau presented a rousing performance of his greatest hits. The performance was opened by Chen Lijun, an outstanding Yue opera actress, blending traditional Chinese opera with contemporary pop in a groundbreaking rendition of Chinese-style music. The stunning performances marked a dazzling end to the event.

 
 

The stellar designer lineup saw Edward Enninful, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Donald Glover, Lulu Li, Mercedes-Benz by Nigo, Palm Angels, A$AP Rocky, Willow Smith – as well as special appearances from Rick Owens and Jil Sander – bring their unique concepts for The City of Genius to life. The landscape of designer worlds saw each co-creator realize their imagined aesthetic utopia: a distinct neighborhood to fully represent the soul and inspiration of their Genius collections.

Design Miami Review: Reflections on a Future Golden Age of Design

 
A disco ball flattened on a basketball hoop.

Rotganzen
Quelle Basket, Miami Edition, 2022
Vintage Basketball Hoop, Quelle Fête
Mirror object: glass mirror, foam, grout, glue
Basket hoop: metal ring with fabric netting
62 x 69 x 80 cm
Edition of 12

 


text by Jennifer Piejko


There isn’t much time to sit down, considering all the seating options. For the eighteenth year in a row, Design Miami has set up next to the Miami Convention Center during Art Basel Miami Beach, bringing galleries, presentations, and talks to Pride Park. 

The fair’s curatorial director, Maria Cristina Didero, leads a program with the theme “The Golden Age: Looking to the Future,” which celebrates “a tomorrow of our own creation.” Looks like tomorrow can go many ways, including enthusiasm, or, if not, at least surrender to amusement: there are Gaetano Pesce and Matthieu Blazy’s lustrous dripped resin chairs for Bottega Veneta sitting in a prismatic half-circle, offering gleeful, freeform optimism (and one of them even a cheeky smile); Finnish designer Kim Simonsson’s mossy children and miniature astronauts occupying levels of an industrial metal scaffolding installation by Urban Umbrella at New York’s Jason Jacques Gallery; Amsterdam’s Rademakers gallery’s room of deflated, dripping, gluttonous disco balls by the collective Rotganzen.

 
 

Lots of designs for tomorrow incorporate historical elements into their design as well: the collection of Brazilian modernist pieces including work by Joaquim Tenreiro, Jorge Zalszupin, and José Zanine Caldas at Rio de Janeiro’s Mercado Moderno; sensual, weathered wood and stone by Natasha Dakhli and Giancarlo Valle at New York’s Magen H Gallery; warm bronze seating by Ingrid Donat, monumental Rick Owens chairs, and radiant, alien translucent cubes by Niko Koronis, shown by Carpenter’s Workshop Gallery; Maestro Dobel Tequila constructed their “Artpothecary” in the center of the fair, offering a pink crossroads of sorts in the installation The Mexican Golden Age by Mexico City-based design studio Clásicos Mexicanos, as well as their new Latinx Art Prize with El Museo del Barrio in New York, awarded for the first time next fall. 

A number of booths also took this year’s theme as a prompt for starting tomorrow at the beginning—looking backward. New York’s Bernard Goldberg Fine Arts had a booth of historical works, many of them screens and dividers, including Nicola D’Ascenzo’s freestanding stained-glass wall. The geometric Art Deco florals of The Chestnut Street Window (c. 1925) was made for the Philadelphia luncheonette Horn & Hardart, the coffee and sandwich dispensary that revolutionized “fast food.” Samuel Yellin’s Gates (1912–15), ornate black wrought-iron gates from a grand private residence, rest on a nearby wall; so do 1920s and ’30s fire screens by William Hunt Diederich and Adalbert Szabo, the latter made for the transatlantic ocean liner S.S. Normandie. 

A array of furniture with a gold table, wood accents in the back, and balloned shaped chairs.

The Future Perfect’s presentation at Design Miami/ 2022, Booth G09.
Photo: Joseph Kramm. Courtesy the artists and The Future Perfect.

As with so many art and design fairs, there are a fair number of mirrored works, providing lots of selfie opportunities. One of the most popular, the squiggly, tentacled gold wall mirrors shown by the Haas Brothers’ Gallery All, literally framed rose-colored glass. The simple change to the standard mirror gave passersby a chance to sneak in a little self-flattery and self-reflection, the little boost that it takes to keep moving on a long day. 

 
 

Read A Conversation Between Ferrari Sheppard & Michèle Lamy On The Occasion Of His Solo Exhibition @ UTA Artist Space →

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Ferrari Sheppard is an enigmatic, multi-disciplinary artist whose practice defies classification, and lives firmly at the center of a three-dimensional venn diagram. Likewise, the work of Michèle Lamy is as fluid and instinctive as it is crystallized in her unmistakable and ever-expansive character. She is not just a maven of fashion, design, and art, or an innovator of music and former restaurateur. She is a cultivator of community and expression. Sheppard is not just a painter, writer, photographer and music producer. He is an activist who has worked to provide relief aid in Haiti, shape economic policy and development in South Africa, and shine light on the Israel-Palestine conflict. It makes perfect sense that the two of them would fortuitously meet at Mr. Chow’s while stepping outside for a cigarette. Sheppard’s recent solo exhibition of paintings, Positions of Power, at UTA Artist Space is a testament to the mistreatment of a generation for profit by the criminal justice system. They are love letters to those who carried the weight of the “war on drugs” and risked it all in pursuit of freedom in the United States. Their structural composition is the result of an almost unconscious, improvised dance. A process that the artist refers to as “walking while painting.” The figures are laid heavy with dark brown and black pigments that visibly absorb light, and are gilded with a reflective gold trim, creating a balance that feels harmonious and befitting. At the center of the gallery’s main space lies a brutalist, three-pronged elmwood bench of mythical giant proportions. A place to put everything down and spend some time with the work. A creation that could only come from the collective minds of Michèle Lamy and Rick Owens. And the perfect place for these two chameleonic masters of material, sound, and ceremony to discuss their work. Read more.

Read An Excerpt Of A Conversation Between Rick Owens and Photographer Rick Castro →

Rick Castro is a legend in the queer underground scene of 1980s and 1990s Los Angeles. It was a time when Santa Monica Boulevard was rich with male hustlers, shirtless in the California sun, and the nightclubs were liminal landscapes of desire and liberation. To those who know him, he is "The Fetish King." Alongside artists like Ron Athey, Catherine Opie, Sheree Rose and Bob Flanagan, Vaginal Davis, Kembra Pfahler, and Bruce LaBruce, Castro utilizes queer identity and the physicality of the body to express themes of marginalization and oppression. Click here to read more.

"Rick Owens: Furniture" Exhibition @ MOCA Pacific Design Center In Los Angeles

MOCA presents Rick Owens: Furniture, an exhibition of work by renowned Paris-based fashion and furniture designer Rick Owens. The exhibition includes recent furniture, a new group of large-scale sculptures, and videos by Owens, alongside a selection of works by the late artist and musician Steven Parrino. Best known for the iconic, eponymous clothing label he started in Los Angeles in 1994, Owens has consistently drawn inspiration for his fashion collections and sculptural furniture from a vast array of art historical sources that span modernist design, brutalist architecture, monochrome painting, minimal art, and avant-garde dance. Since 2007 Owens has applied a punk and anarchist sensibility to furniture design as well, creating brutal and elegant forms out of marble, alabaster, bronze, ox bone, leather, concrete, and plywood. In addition to showcasing works in Owens's signature materials, this exhibition marks the artist's foray into foam and rock crystal. Rick Owens: Furniture was organized in close collaboration with Michèle Lamy, Owen's longtime partner and the primary creative force and producer of the furniture line. Rick Owens: Furniture will be on view until April 2, 2017 at MOCA Pacific Design Center in Los Angeles. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper

Read Our Interview Of Michele Lamy On The Occasion Of Rick Owens' First Museum Exhibition Of Furniture →

On a cold, rainy night, the day before the private opening, we huddled in the cab of a moving truck to chat about furniture, music and fashion. It may have been a symbolic coincidence that Michele Lamy was in the driver's seat, clutching on to the huge steering wheel, but maybe it wasn't. It's true – going at it alone and organizing a massive exhibition of her husband's furniture line is not a small task. But it’s obvious that she is used to it and loves the process, and Rick is happy to take a back seat. Click here to read more. 

Watch The Backstage Footage of Rick Owens' Spring Summer 2016 "Cyclops" Collection

This women’s spring collection is entitled Cyclops – a mythological creature, formidable, with focused vision. Who among us wouldn’t appreciate that kind of description? In the spring men’s collection, which shares the same name, that focused vision was propulsive and aggressive. When applied to women, I see that focused vision being more about nourishment, sisterhood/motherhood and regeneration; women raising women, women becoming women, and women supporting women – a world of women I know little about and can only attempt to amuse in my own small way. text by Rick Owens. Film by Matteo Carcelli and Luke Mayes

Read Our Round-Up Review of Paris Fashion Week 2015 →

Again, I will have to touch upon what makes this particular round unique to the industry and important for fashion. But honesty, do I actually need to make an argument concerning Paris and its total domination of conceptual fashion? OK, here’s an argument for you: Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yammamoto, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela, Junya Wattanabe, Olivier Rousteing, and need I continue? A lot happens at Paris: some bad, some good, and some utterly transcendent. It’s too much to write about really. It’s the longest of the fashion weeks and it can be easy to forget about incredible shows mere days after they happened. Today as I am baffled yet excited over the announcement of Demna Gvasalia of Vetements being named creative director to Balenciaga while former Balenciaga godhead Nicolas Ghesquiere continues to alter the fabric of what we know to be Louis Vuitton, I almost forgot that Rick Owens put on the funniest and most conceptual collection of the week. So another season is over, and the buying begins. See you at the menswear shows. Click here to read the full review. Text by Adam Lehrer.