Read Part Two Of Our Round Up Review of The Last Few Days of Fashion Week →

And so it continues. Save for a few massive outings from Alexander Wang and Givenchy and some surprisingly inventive collections from newcomers like Baja East, the first few days of NYFW are always a bit slower than the days to come. And then WHAM! It’s like your internet browser is getting assaulted Battlestar Galactica premiere style with the endless updates of amazing collections from the best fashion labels that the US has to offer. It feels like it’s been a particularly strong year, all things considered. Here is what I’ve liked. And by extension, what Autre has liked. Click here to read the reviews. 

Dover Street Market Holds An Open House During Fashion and Art Week Featuring JK5, Willy Vanderperre and More

At DSMNY’s Fashion Week Open House on Thursday, the store introduced some amazing installations: a ground floor installation designed by exciting new Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele introduces Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection, longtime Raf Simons collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre was hanging out signing copies of his new IDEA book ‘636,’ London heritage label Labour and Wait launched its first US shop within the walls of DSMNY, designer Jeanne Signoles was in store celebrating the US launch of her luxe-meets-function bag brand L/Uniform, and John Galliano’s first collection for Maison Margiela was commemorated with a visual installation calling back to Martin Margiela’s famous experiments with paint. All of these installations and appearances were fantastic; Rei Kawakubo accepts no less. But it was particularly heart-warming to see one of my favorite artists (and full disclosure, good friend) JK5, aka Joseph Ari Aloi, giving birth to his installation on DSMNY’s 5th floor. Read the full review here. photographs by Tenlie Mourning

Tattered to Shreds: Read Our Interview of Patrick Matamoros of Chapel NYC on the Perfect T-Shirt →

The first time I met Patrick Matamoros, we decided to drive to Malibu – to John Frusciante’s house – to shoot a wet t-shirt contest fashion editorial with some of his incredible vintage tees. He had just come in from New York where he would sell his tees either on the street or in pop up shops throughout the city – and often got arrested for not having a merchant’s license. There were original Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Mclaren seditionary tees with Minnie Mouse getting fucked by Mickey, and Snow White getting gang banged by the Seven Dwarves. Click here to read the full interview and click here to shop for some Chapel NYC's vintage tees now available on Autre. 

Gloss Explores The Glamorous and Dangerous Work of Chris von Wangenheim

The first monograph on notorious photographer Chris von Wangenheim, whose shocking work epitomized the glamour and excess of the 1970s and reflected the fashionable underworld living life on the edge. Between the years 1968 and 1981, photographer Chris von Wangenheim shocked the world with a body of work that explored sex, violence, and danger in the realm of high fashion. Von Wangenheim’s dark photographs were emblematic of the time—an era that encompassed Deep Throat, the sexual revolution, punk, and porn—and continually challenged the viewers’ taste by its stylized depictions of suggestive (and often harrowing) narratives. His images appeared in every top fashion publication—including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue Italia, and Interview—and he produced unforgettable campaigns for Dior and Valentino until he died in a car accident at age 39. This book, the first monograph on von Wangenheim’s career, contains over two hundred provocative and iconic images from this tumultuous era, including never-before-seen outtakes from memorable shoots with such supermodels as Christie Brinkley, Lisa Taylor, and the late Gia Carangi. Drawing on interviews with models, editors, art directors, and photographers who were influenced by him, the Padilhas revive von Wangenheim’s explosive depictions of the glamour and excess of the 1970s for a contemporary audience and reveal how his work continues to inform fashion imagery today. Click here to preorder the book. 

Run(a)way Fashion Art Show Featuring Clothing by Barf Queen, Agency and More at Night Gallery In Los Angeles

"Forget the runway, come run(a)way to a place where fashion has been wrestled from the talons of Vogue, torn to shreds, and redistributed amongst the munchkins." Barf Queen, Agency, and Dopp Doolittle present a unique one night only tradeshow fashion orgy at Night Gallery in Los Angeles.

Blending Art and Fashion: Samuel Gui Yang Private Preview of Untitled (Ephemeral Study 1) In Los Angeles

Garments encased in giant blocks of ice, immersive sound, dance and photography – recent Central Saint Martins graduate Samuel Gui Yang brilliantly explores the nature of fashion as art, its ephemerality in culture and the notions of 'fast fashion' in his first "collection" as a designer. Instead of taking the runway route, the Shenzhen, China born designer and artist has chosen to collaborate on an installation that exemplifies his collection in the form of an installation. Wellington-style boots, tunics, and over garments are trapped in giant ice blocks that will melt over the course of the installation. Hart + Leshkina create a series of imagery and posters that line walls and pedestals. Chris Peck creates a sound installation that culminates in a dance, performance choreographed by Milka Djordjevich, with three female dancers to evoke the tension and restrictive nature of Yang's rubber pieces that almost look alien and marbleized. Autre was lucky enough to attend the private preview of Yang's first installation and performance, but it will be on view until September 5th with a closing event at 2736 S. La Cienega Blvd in Los Angeles. You can RSVP here. 

See Our New Editorial Shot By Chris Jarvis Using the Environment of Kent, England As His Natural Prop Master →

Chris Jarvis is a photographer based in Kent, England who uses the surrounding landscape as his studio and natural prop master. The following editorial, entitled Reclamation Playground, features selections from Yllin collections – the brightly colored panels starkly contrast against the manic walls of antiques, collectables and furniture. See the full editorial here. 

The Other Half of the Antwerp 6: Read About Belgium's Unsung Fashion Heroes That Continue To Influence Today

When it comes to fashion, the Belgians will continue to be a driving, influential force. With a round of fashion weeks upon us in September, there will undoubtedly be a few references to these sartorial geniuses from this unlikely creatively kinetic country. Sure, the Martin Margiela and Raf Simons stars burn the brightest – especially at retrospectives like the one that is on view now at the Bozar Center For Fine Arts in Brussels – but the credit for laying the first fashion stakes belongs to a band of misfit outsiders known as the Antwerp 6. Here, our fashion editor-at-large, Adam Lehrer, explores the life and works of the more unknown members of this fashion collective that may not be household names, but are just as influential and still worth talking about. Click here to read.

Eckhaus Latta's New Fashion Film "Roach" Perfectly Captures the Lonliness of A Post-Internet World

Ever wonder what life was like through the hole of a pierced septum? Directed by Alexa Karolinski, Eckhaus Latta's fall/winter 15 collection film is a pastiche of diary-esque snapshots of the human condition in an era where binge watching television is a reality and reality itself is a virtual mirage set against the backdrop of green screens in a darkened room. Eckhaus Latta has a distinct history for pushing the boundaries when it comes to projecting their sartorially visions - each one of their fashion films finds a way to capture the essence of the collection in a distinct thematic way. For "Roach," the label has tasked Dev Hynes to create the soundtrack and Nora Slade to read a poem penned by the designers for a romantic ambiance that has us yearning for shelter as the impending winter gets closer and closer. 

A Pantone Dream In Rib-Knit: Read Our Interview With Designer Giuliana Raggiani →

The turtleneck has had a bizarre reputation. Like a pop star with a long career, it had a murky past (worn by sailors and thieves looks for a warm outfit for prowling in the night), caused a sensation when it first hit the scene, began slowly fading into the background, then started acting strangely in front of the press (think of the beatnik and his beret or Steve Jobs’ monograph wardrobe of Issey Miyake-designed turtlenecks), but now the turtleneck is making a comeback in a big way. This is why designer Giuliana Raggiani is right on the money. Her label Giu Giu’s fall collection is highlighted with classic wide-ribbed turtlenecks that can be layered or worn a la carte, depending on how brisk the weather. Raggiani’s love of turtlenecks dates back to the fashion staple’s glory days – her grandmother, Palmira Giglia, was responsible for the “Nonna Turtleneck,” which sold at her luxury womenswear boutique on Boston’s Newbury Street. We got a chance to catch up with Giuliana Raggiani to discuss her new collection, its inspirations, and her love for turtlenecks. Read the full interview here. 

Read Our Conversation With Woolmark Prizewinning Designer Siki Im on Freedom in Fashion, Punk and the Meaning of Elevated Streetwear →

Growing up in Germany, New York-based designer Siki Im was passionate about skateboarding, punk rock, hip-hop, art, graffiti, and unwittingly, fashion. Luckily for his rabid fans that pick up every single one of his pieces released under his Siki Im or Den Im brands, Im has never abandoned those passions. In fact, his influences live and breathe within the materials found in every single one of his collections. Autre's fashion editor-at-large, Adam Lehrer, sat down to speak with Im for a fascinating chat. Click here to read the full conversation. 

Three Rivers Is A Mysterious Fashion Film for Golden Goose Deluxe Brand's Fall Winter 2015 Collection

The mysterious new film for Venice, Italy based fashion brand Golden Goose Deluxe's Fall/Winter 2015 collection is set in the Sequoia National Park and stars Lauryn Holmquist, River Johnson, Sarah Elizabeth who play fashionable adventures that exist in a strange and shape-shifting reality. Directed by Marco Prestini, the film also features an original haunting score by Guido Smider. 

Here Are Ten Things You Need To Know About Elio Fiorucci Who Passed Away On Monday At the Age of 80 →

This Monday, the fashion world was saddened to hear of the death of Italian designer Elio Fiorucci. Known as “The King of Jeans,” the Milanese designer’s raunchy, colorful fashions “sold America back to America.” His kitschy, recycled style broke the harsh, conservative boundaries of haute-couture, gaining international popularity with his low-cost materials and everyday fashions. The Fiorucci name was a staple in the jet-set world of youth and alternative culture in the New Wave era. However, despite fame and acclaim, poor management and legal issues separated Fiorucci from his brand into the 21st century. Interior design guru Rossana Orlandi said Fiorucci was “the point of reference for an entire generation.” Giorgio Armani called him “revolutionary.” Fiorucci recently celebrated his 80th birthday. Click here to read ten things you need to know about Elio Fiorucci. 

Check Out Our Review of Asaf Ganot's Spring Summer Collection, Which Just Hit the Runway at New York Fashion Week: Men's →

Are the next J.W. Anderson’s and Sibling’s of the world about to erupt from New York, who knows? Is Asaf Ganot, who just showed his SS 2016 collection, one of these designers? I am learning towards no, at least not from this collection. But, I am of a fashion generation brought up on experimental electronic music, Rick Owens, and Raf Simons. Ganot’s bright and sharply tailored clothes adorning the bodies of hulking beefcake types is different than the fashion world that I have been attuned to appreciate. And maybe that makes it radical? Or, at the very least, different. Click here to read the full review by Adam Lehrer.