Triangle of Rebellion: Niki de Saint Phalle, Jean Tinguely & Pontus Hulten @ Grand Palais in Paris

NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE, Repainted photo of 'Hon,' 1979, NIKI CHARITABLE ART FOUNDATION, Santee, California. Courtesy of 2025 NIKI CHARITABLE ART FOUNDATION / ADAGP, PARIS


text by Kim Shveka

Artistic couple Niki de Saint Phalle and Jean Tinguely were bound by a rare creative chemistry that defied rules and norms. They were known as the rebels of the ‘60s art scene who ambitiously pushed back against a world too eager to impose order. When the couple met curator Pontus Hulten, the three formed a rare triangle of trust and mutual vision.

Presented at the Grand Palais, this exhibition traces the rich journey of these two artists through the lens of Hulten, sharing their conception of a disruptive, multidisciplinary art in a profound historical approach.

Presented in ten chapters, blended and forming a complete journey through the intertwined lives of the three protagonists, the exhibition truly feels like a voyage. Swaying through the rooms, one cannot escape being washed by a ray of feelings: joy, frustration, freedom, injustice. The experience is curated with such intention that, if you allow the feelings to linger with you, the deeper truths within the art unravel.

 
 

The first room of the exhibition tells the story of Impasse Ronsin in Paris, an artists’ colony in the Montparnasse district that was known to be an international melting pot of creativity. In 1956, Saint Phalle and Tinguely both lived and worked there, although each had been married to their previous partners at the time. Both marriages eventually came to an end, and by 1960, Tinguely and Saint Phalle embarked on a love affair that would intertwine their artistic paths. Tinguely had already known Pontus Hulten, an early believer in rebellious visionaries, and so he introduced his new partner. Hulten was immediately captivated by the young artist and encouraged her to pursue her career as an artist. After gaining traction with her Tirs (Shootings), Saint Phalle embarked on a new series depicting female stereotypes through grotesque, disturbing sculptures, establishing her artistic path and vision, which she followed until the end of her career.

The next rooms hum and clang with the energy of Jean Tinguely’s machines, creations of rusted steel and chaos, many of them still in active form, bursting with sounds of screeching and rattling. Hulten greatly admired Tinguely’s ability to include movement in his works, eventually setting aside his own art to focus on bringing Tinguely’s art center stage. Hulten aimed to offer artists a place in a society marked by liberty of thought and action. He imagined a world where art isn’t hiding in a museum or a studio, but shouted from the streets, quite literally. This took the form of art that refused passivity; it was uncomfortable and rebellious, taken out to the streets of Paris to address the public directly, offering them new art forms that were interactive and dynamic.

 
 

Scattered like secrets throughout the exhibition are handwritten letters, correspondence between the two artists and Hulten that reveal a high degree of intimacy. Small drawings and sketches crowd the margins: filled with humor, inside jokes, and mostly love. They are love letters, and in reading them, we understand that this isn’t another collaboration between artist and curator. It was a family they formed, held together by a visceral, wild vision and belief in one another. Hulten didn’t just support their work—he adhered to it completely, with a rare kind of loyalty and conviction. Through him, their art found the space it needed and deserved; he created a space for them to grow, to experience, to see themselves without limitations. And through them, he found his true desire and ultimate purpose. From the safety of this nurturing nest, the three were capable of flight.

Niki de Saint Phalle, Jean Tinguely, Pontus Hulten is on view through January 4th, 2026 at Grand Palais, Square Jean Perrin - 17 Avenue du Général Eisenhower 75008 Paris

India Couture Week 2025: Threads of Identity, Echoes of Dreams

 

courtesy of JJ Valaya

 

text by Parrie Chhajed

Every July, Delhi transforms. The city, with its monsoon skies and imperial boulevards, becomes a fantasy stage. At the heart of it lies India Couture Week, the country’s most awaited celebration of craftsmanship and couture—a sacred space where heritage finds reinvention, and where the past and future walk the same ramp.

This year’s edition, held at the iconic Taj Palace Hotel and curated by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in collaboration with Reliance Brands, was not merely a fashion week. It was a theatrical odyssey into identity, memory, and legacy. Across eight days, the 2025 ICW staged a poetic conversation between textile and technique, between the deeply personal and the universally grand.

Founded in 2008, India Couture Week has evolved into a cultural cornerstone, marking the intersection where India’s bridal traditions, artisanal crafts, and conceptual fashion converge. It is the country’s answer to Paris Haute Couture, not in mimicry but in spirit—deeply rooted in the handmade and the ceremonial, with a flair for showmanship unique to Indian design.

Over the years, ICW has launched defining moments in the careers of its designers and positioned India on the global luxury fashion map. It remains one of the few platforms where embroidery still breathes, and where storytelling is as important as silhouette.

If last year leaned into romance and nostalgia, 2025 looked inward. This was a couture week about identity—collective and individual, ancestral and imagined. It echoed a quiet defiance against homogeneity, embracing maximalism with a sense of meaning.

While every show had its own story to tell, five designers rose as the week's emotional and artistic anchors: Rahul Mishra, Amit Aggarwal, JJ Valaya, Aisha Rao, and Ritu Kumar. Together, they created a chorus of craft with each speaking a different dialect, yet somehow in harmony.

Rahul Mishra – Becoming Love

 
 

Rahul Mishra opened the week with a transcendental collection titled Becoming Love, which unfolded like a philosophical poem in motion. Inspired by Sufi mysticism and Gustav Klimt’s golden canvases, Mishra’s couture offered seven stages of love, each captured in finely hand-embroidered stories across silk organza, velvet, and tulle.

There was restraint, there was magnificence. In one moment, a gown glistened like Klimt’s “The Kiss.” In another, a lehenga whispered the pain of longing. With Tamannaah Bhatia gliding across the runway in a floral, sculpted gown, Mishra once again reaffirmed his position as a couturier of soul, stitching emotion into every sequin.

Amit Aggarwal – Arcanum

 
 

If Mishra spoke of emotion, Amit Aggarwal answered with introspection. His collection Arcanum—a word meaning ‘mystery’—explored identity through the architecture of DNA. Using his signature polymer techniques and handwoven metallics, Aggarwal built garments like sacred codes: twisted helixes, cocooned corsets, and chrysalis gowns.

But behind the science was softness. There was something deeply moving about how structure met surrender. Couture here was not just worn—it was inhabited. Aggarwal reminded us that even the future has ancestry.

 
 
 

JJ Valaya – East

No one stages drama quite like JJ Valaya, and East—his closing show and a celebration of 33 years in fashion—was an imperial epic. Drawing from East Asian tapestries, Ottoman silks, and Rajput opulence, the collection was architectural and extravagant. Intricately embroidered jackets, obi-style belts, brocaded cloaks, and voluminous skirts brought a regal, globe-trotting vision to life.

Rasha Thadani and Ibrahim Ali Khan closed the show with old-world poise and new-world flair. It was a fitting finale—part history lesson, part fantasy film.

Aisha Rao – Wild at Heart

Making her ICW debut, Aisha Rao was the season’s freshest dream. Her collection Wild at Heart bloomed with lotus petals, banana leaves, and rose-gold mosaics—each appliqué whispering a kind of untamed tenderness. She layered nature into couture like a fable.

Sara Ali Khan floated down the runway in a fantastical Banarasi lehenga—half fairy, half warrior princess. Rao's world is one where rebellion is delicate and fantasy is embroidered with thought. And for a first showing, it was unforgettable.

Ritu Kumar – Threads of Time: Reimagined

A quiet storm came in the form of Ritu Kumar, one of the original matriarchs of Indian fashion. In Threads of Time: Reimagined, Kumar revisited and revitalized her archives, reworking iconic prints, paisleys, and kalidars for a new generation. It felt like a love letter to Indian textiles, with the wisdom of decades and the freshness of reinvention.

This wasn’t nostalgia—it was memory made malleable.

What We Saw, What We’ll Remember

This year, ICW saw a return to tactility. Couture was about touch—embroideries you could feel with your eyes, textures that moved like memories. There was structure, but also surrender. Motifs of roots, DNA, nature, and spirituality ran across collections like leitmotifs in a symphony.

We saw metallics meet brocade, corsetry meet kalidars, and flowers sprout from pleats. And above all, we witnessed a reclamation of Indian identity in high fashion—not as tokenism, but as a language only we know how to speak.

India’s couture scene is now more intimate and more international than ever before. With young voices like Aisha Rao stepping in with fresh fantasy and veterans like Rahul Mishra and Amit Aggarwal pushing boundaries between concept and craft, couture is evolving. No longer tethered only to bridal, it's becoming something more—wearable philosophy, artful autobiography, emotion in motion.

India Couture Week 2025 was not just a showcase—it was a soulprint. A reflection of who we are, where we come from, and what we dare to become. It asked its designers to remember, to imagine, to feel. And in doing so, it gave us all permission to dream aloud—in silk, metal, embroidery, and memory.

This wasn’t just couture.
It was a confession.
It was a conversation.
And it was the kind of beauty you don’t just wear—you carry it in your bones.

A Good Read: Slanting Towards the Sea by Lidija Hilje

 

Cover Design by Emma Ewbank. Photograph © Nathan Landers

 

text by Poppy Baring

Ivona and Vlaho personify the often-felt but never easy human experience that is being so close but ultimately, impossibly, and frustratingly out of reach from the ideal happy ending. Told by Ivona, Slanting Towards the Sea depicts a heartbreakingly intense and oh-so-tangible love story set against the lapping Croatian sea. Passing between their youth and budding university relationship, following through a childless marriage, and divorce brought about by wider family pressures, this story tells the effects and sadness of love and longing.

Touching on themes like death, infertility, employment, and numerous other relatable life events, Lidija Hilje writes this story openly, never skimming a subject but revealing it in sharp focus. As Ivona attempts to find her feet in her homeland, she is continuously hit by attacks that seem to throw her off balance, whether it’s adoption difficulties or visa frustrations, only in the end does she realize that the life she has remained attached to has not fully served her.

This is a book that you never want to end, one that is a joy to go back to and which feels like you are zooming into a summer romance. Describing the life of Ivona and bringing readers along as the characters discover hidden and complex parts of themselves, Hilje writes with vivid imagery of Croatia’s changing seasons, where we can feel the stillness of a night at the height of summer or picture the hush of the olive grove that comes “seeping into your soul if you make your self still enough.”

While Ivona moves through the chapters of her life, which remains tethered to her ex husband’s, Marina (Vlaho’s wife and mother of his children) and Asier (Ivona’s new love, the first in nine years) provide sounding boards to her actions and inner voice. With the potential she holds looming over her head and while she’s kept by aging parents in her childhood home, our protagonist tries to claim a life of her own, free from concealed resentment.

The story ends with a poignant statement about parent and child relationships. Vlaho’s life is revealed to be “a sum of his countless confessions to others,” and in the end, he makes a decision in the hope of changing a pattern of choices that goes back generations. Slanting Towards the Sea is Hilje’s debut novel, but it feels as though it has inhabited our bookshelves for years, collecting watermarks from summers past.

 

Lidija Hilje.  Suzy New Life Photography.

 

A World With No Safe Word: Read An Interview of Nicolette Mishkan

Nicolette Mishkan
Lethe's Harem, 2024-2025
Oil on linen
48 x 60 in121.9 x 152.4 cm

What if death were just a blackout between this life and the next? With its memories wiped clean in a cycle of spiritual cleansing, your soul might carry only faint notions of who you once were, like a SIM card with a brand new hippocampus. Such is the gist of the River Lethe, an underworld tributary from ancient Greek mythology whose waters wash away all remembrance of one’s existence. In Lethe’s Tavern, the fabled Greek river becomes a watering hole where painter Nicolette Mishkan’s ego goes to slosh around, bifurcate, and eventually sing its swan song. Informed equally by Sufi mysticism wherein wine is used to symbolize the intoxicating effects of divine love, she annihilates her sense of individuality by eliminating any distinction between herself and others. Together, these figures revel in the ultimate surrender to their fate, a resplendent transcendence into the unknown where who she once was lies buried without even an epitaph. The following interview took place at Megan Mulrooney on the occasion of the exhibition’s closing and has been edited for length. Read more.

A Deep Dive into a Century of Swimming and Style @ London’s Design Museum

Exhibition Photography © Luke Hayes for the Design Museum

text by Poppy Baring

Walking into this Design Museum exhibition doesn’t feel too dissimilar to walking into an indoor leisure center. After stepping down a wide white staircase and through a small corridor, you approach Splash!, a show investigating a century of swimming and style, together with the social and cultural impacts of the sport. This exhibition was designed, unsurprisingly, with swimming environments in mind. The central plinths, located in each of the rooms, which are divided into Pool, Lido, and Nature, are scale models of the three separate swimming spaces.

In the first room, Pool, these islands are models of the London Aquatic Centre and have been made from Storm Board, a recycled plastic waste that can later be remolded into different shapes. Entering this room, you are greeted by a large, bold lithograph poster that speaks to a poolside chicness that is often associated with the sport. The late 1920s poster was one of the first attempts to ‘brand’ the seaside as fashionable, bold, and modern. Seen next to this is a 1984 poster by David Hockney for the Los Angeles Olympics. A symbol of affluence and leisure, the poster celebrates California life and shows a swimmer immersed in a pool, with a pattern that mimics the one painted on Hockney’s own pool.

Overall, this room features interesting swimming treasures, namely Olympic and Paralympic swimsuits of medal winners past. The costumes and stories of Tom Daley, Yusra Mardini, and Ellie Robinson guide you down the room, where you then meet 1920s and 30s knitted swimsuits and swimwear catalogues. Labels explain the history of wool swimmers, starting in the 1920s, initially with the intention of promoting hygienic clothing, as well as magazines that advertise the “suit that changed bathing to swimming.”

Exhibition Photography © Luke Hayes for the Design Museum

Blue arrows painted on the floor then bring you into room two, Lido, which opens into a show of swimsuits and clothing. Aiming to include an extensive range of themes and topics, from architecture to fashion, politics, and fabric development, the exhibition can feel slightly overwhelming at points and sometimes, because of its broad objectives, fails to dive fully into one topic or another. The rise of mass tourism, sun protection trends, ‘homosexual activity,’ and changing beauty ideals are all discussed before you have had a chance to fully feel like you’ve entered the room. These weighty topics are paired next to swimwear-clad light blue mannequins, which don’t naturally transport you to the beach.

 

Rudi Gernreich, Monokini, around 1964. Jersey, Tricot. Courtesy of Fashion Museum Hasselt.

 

There are, however, a few iconic pieces that are thrilling to see in person. Pamela Anderson’s iconic 1990s red Baywatch swimsuit, seen by roughly 1.1 billion viewers weekly, is one, and a 1964 Monokini by Rudi Gernreich, which was designed in a statement about liberating women from hyper-sexualisation, is another. As visitors continue, swim caps from the 1970s and from Miu Miu’s 2016 collection also stand out, and the line-up of accessories from ‘bathing shoes’ to Speedos brings a sense of charming nostalgia to the show.

The third and final section of Splash! is Nature, which touches on folklore and myths associated with the sea. Century-old tales of Merfolk are addressed before discussing the niche and unexpected contemporary trend of mermaid-core. Finally, a fascinating film about the haenyeo-women of South Korea finishes the exhibition. This film brings visitors underwater with a woman who follows her mother twenty meters below sea level with no help from a breathing apparatus. This historic exploration for seafood and seaweed has been conducted by women for centuries, and is an intense but extraordinary end to a fact-filled summer exhibition.

Exhibition Photography © Luke Hayes for the Design Museum

Splash! A Century of Swimming and Style’ is on view through the 17th of August at the Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High St, London, W8 6AG

“Under Shadows” With Tamara Kvesitadze and Shunxiang Hu at KORNFELD Galerie Berlin

In Under Shadows, KORNFELD Galerie Berlin unveils not just a duo exhibition, but a reckoning with the unseen forces that shape us. Tamara Kvesitadze and Shunxiang Hu — artists born worlds apart — meet in a shared terrain of exile, resilience, and refusal. The result is haunting and quietly revolutionary.

Kvesitadze, from Georgia, has long used sculpture and painting to explore the female body as a site of memory, fragmentation, and myth. Her work carries the imprint of a nation on the brink — caught between past and present, repression and revolt. Shunxiang Hu, born in China during the One-Child Policy, offers an intimate counterpoint. As a second daughter, she was forced to relinquish her identity to survive. Her portraits, hushed and uncanny, hold this rupture close to the surface. Faces emerge like ghosts — fragile, luminous, searching.

The artists met in Berlin in late 2024, sharing not only a space but a sense of displacement. The dialogue that emerges is profound: two women from vastly different geographies tracing parallel lines through shadow — political, cultural, psychological. Their work does not offer answers. It offers atmosphere. Texture. A choreography of what’s left unsaid.

The shadow in this exhibition is not absence — it is narrative. It holds the things that were never meant to be seen: buried selves, censored memories, forgotten bodies. Kvesitadze’s sculptural forms resist coherence; they are part relic, part dream. Hu’s portraits flicker between presence and erasure, shaped by a history that deemed her existence illegal. And yet, here they are — visible, intentional, luminous.

Under Shadows is not concerned with spectacle. It doesn’t scream. It hums, low and steady. It reminds us that survival often takes the shape of quietness, that transformation can occur beneath the surface, where light barely touches.

In a moment where visibility is commodified, this exhibition argues for the power of what lies beneath — for the right to complexity, ambiguity, and opacity. Kvesitadze and Hu don’t just make art. They reclaim space. They make the shadow speak.

This is not just a show. It is a testimony — to lives lived in margins, and to the radical act of emerging from them.

Under Shadows is on view through August 23 @ KORNFELD Galerie Berlin Fasanenstr. 26 10719 Berlin

Otherwise Part 1: Neoliberal Realism

Image of Immersive Van Gogh, courtesy of Redd Francisco and Unsplash

text by Perry Shimon

Walk into most art fairs today and you can reasonably expect to find yourself on the outskirts of an urban area in a sterile convention center, walking through a maze of white booths selling wall hangings and sculptures. Meanwhile, visual culture in the internet age is increasingly variegated, saturating, operational and complex. In many contemporary art institutions today, we often encounter a range of aesthetic practices that, more or less, reproduce the dominant social and economic relations of today. These deserve closer examination.

The production of contemporary art in the age of neoliberalism largely articulates and legitimates the economic logics that encompass it. Today’s art world routinely rehearses and enacts the post-industrial trends of deskilled labor, the rise of the marketing and service sectors, and precaritization—particularly through on-demand labor contracts, often between the artist and institution as well as between the artist-entrepreneur and the labor manufacturing the art. It also serves the substantive agenda of neoliberalism to further the spread of its values: marketization, possessive individualism, and the dismantlement of existing social customs and protections. It engages in the same rhetorical obscurantism of finance capitalism, analogous to the specialized language applied to highly-questionable speculative assets. On the occasion that contemporary art work performs resistance to neoliberal logic, this resistance is frequently only recognized at the moment it is recuperated into the circuits of commodity exchange. For instance, Hito Steyerl’s 2015 Factory of the Sun, commissioned for the Venice Biennale and collected by MoMA, takes up themes of surveillance capitalism, data extraction, gamification of exploitative labor and ineffectual aestheticized critique, offering us a paragon of this theme.  

Installation view of Hito Steyerl: Factory of the Sun, February 21–September 12, 2016 at MOCA Grand Avenue. Courtesy of The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles. Photo by Justin Lubliner and Carter Seddon.

Contemporary art is largely determined by arbitrary aesthetic conventions, rituals, and social relations developed within a late capitalist neoliberal cosmology. The art market administers the largest unregulated global asset class—trading at tens of billions of dollars a year—and is part of a half-trillion dollar (and growing) global market. One could even say that contemporary art is the threshold where social and material relations become private property. Consider for example the now-ubiquitous photographic image, coalescing manifold relationships produced by an incalculably vast range of historical relationships and actors. Under art’s jurisdiction this social and technical image is transformed into a proprietary object, which in an art context is arbitrarily rendered into a limited edition of prints and positioned in the market as scarce and valuable commodity with a speculative character. 

Contemporary art functions in a prospective register: an avant-garde goes out in search of new enclosures, commodities and market frontiers. In this respect, the art world shares many similarities with science, which prospects proprietary financial opportunities and employs similar scopic regimes, including similar lens-based, lighting and spatial conventions. The art market necessarily omits all but the most rarefied initiates who adhere to esoteric procedures and codes, producing the scarcity necessary to command blue-chip prices. This scarcity propels the work of the small group of players who control the market, as well as their many aspirants. 

The unique features of internet capitalism, too, find expression in artistic production today. The capture and exploitation of social energies by internet capitalism is mirrored in, for example, contemporary art’s turn toward social practice. In this way, contemporary also resembles earlier periods of feudalism, where the labor of landless serfs was largely expropriated by landed lords. This historical analogy becomes more resonant as the ability to survive in the contemporary becomes increasingly dependent on one’s presence online: each so-called user is allocated their own individualized space and identity from which to competitively accumulate and transact attentional capital, in an illiberal metaversal space owned by an elite class who are the primary beneficiaries of all the subordinate social energies. The resulting spectacularized and competitive milieu is reminiscent of the Roman Colosseum, a distracting and placating arena of cruelty, competition, and violence where an anonymized and often vicious crowd administers ad hoc adjudications with their thumbs and fickle affects. These users are further subjected to relentless surveillance, advertising, and increasingly sophisticated forms of behavioral manipulation. 

Pollice Verso, Jean-Léon Gérôme, 1872.

The set of ideologies, practices, and material effects of free-market capitalism, and their expression in art and its financialized transaction, can be described collectively as “neoliberal cosmopoetics” and are a central focus of the series to follow. Beyond the fiercely-guarded confines of contemporary art, and within the general field of aesthetic interaction, exist incalculable aesthetic articulations of neoliberal cosmopoetics, sometimes jostling for a position within the art market or making themselves available to the appropriative and acquisitive mode popular among professional contemporary artists. 

A telling recent example of a neoliberal cosmopoetics, transversally articulating itself through variegated media space, extends from Angela Nikolau, who was born in post-Soviet Moscow and studied gymnastics and art before becoming a social media sensation for rooftopping—or climbing skyscrapers and taking vertiginous selfies. She began collaborating with her now partner Ivan Beerkus to make a series of images of the couple scaling the largest skyscrapers in urban capitalist centers and performing romantic tropes on life-threatening pinnacles. It’s hard to imagine a better articulation of neoliberal cosmopoetics actually: the performance of a competitive, zero-sum, life-or-death ascent up the tallest, phallocentric markers of capitalist architecture, to then be filmed with selfie sticks and drones and broadcast over social media to an alienated audience, and eventually leveraged for a Netflix streaming deal. The resulting film served to announce and promote the artist’s NFTs.

 
 

NFTs, blockchain, and Web3 more generally, are part of a project of building the infrastructure for a new frontier of capitalism that aims to commoditize every conceivable and transactional object and social relation. Contemporary art, as the most promiscuous and versatile of commodity forms, has been mobilized as an avant-garde on this new metaversal front. An infrastructure that can transact and account for the capaciousness and variability of contemporary art is suited for nearly every other conceivable form of commoditization. The realization of this infrastructural and psychological project will mark a totalizing saturation of neoliberal realism. Everything from the commoditization of hospitality and even experiences on Airbnb to the pornogrified self on Onlyfans articulate the extent and pervasiveness with which these operationalizing logics manifest themselves. 

The emerging, deterritorialized, illiberal, and almost entirely unaccountable metaversal plane of interaction is supported by an extremely large and rapidly growing supply of violently extracted and exhausted material, energetic and labor resources. The Silicon Valley model has been one of breathless Promethean marketing to raise venture capital, accumulate monopoly market positions and then make a public offering and cash out—leaving behind staggering social and ecological ruination, distributed unevenly according to class and geographical situations. In short, it functions like an enormous Ponzi scheme that requires more energy than most countries. In order to dominate these new metaversal markets and grow them insatiably, an army of behavioral scientists, interactive designers, and programmers develop libidinally-charged, dopaminergic algorithms to excite an unprecedented hyperstimulating and compulsive media environment. The net effect is perhaps the most addictive experience in human history, a never-ending hallucination of instrumentalized media collapsing history into an overwhelming, anhedonic, nihilistic, consumptive presentism.

Of course, every relation has its aesthetic dimension and so a latent and mutable artfulness.  This series of reflections will endeavor to contour the development of contemporary art coextensive with neoliberalism by examining generalized themes and conditions, engaging particular instances and protagonists, and exploring the aesthetic, ritual and social practices existing otherwise. 


Otherwise is a series on neoliberal contemporary art and its unbounded remainders by Perry Shimon.


AYA TAKANO'S World Comes to Los Angeles

AYA TAKANO’S “how far how deep we can go" exhibition at Perrotin in LA invites visitors into a mystical world which offers an escape and hope for a brighter existence.

AYA TAKANO 地球上のすべての生物のスピリット  | the spirit of all life on earth, 2025. 130.3 x 162 x 3 cm | 51 5/16 x 63 3/4 x 1 3/16 inches. Oil on canvas. ©2025 AYA TAKANO/Kaikai Kiki Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Courtesy Perrotin.

text by Poppy Baring

Inspired by all art forms from Expressionism to the erotic art of Japan's Edo period, from manga artists such as Osamu Tezuka to Gustav Klimt, AYA TAKANO has been creating her own intimate fantasy since the age of three. Born in Japan in 1976, the painter, illustrator, and highly recognised Superflat artist welcomes LA residents to her new exhibition titled “how far how deep we can go”.

TAKANO presents otherworldly nymph-like characters that are extraterrestrial and yet still connected to and reflective of our reality. Drawing from the past and thinking to the future, she creates a limitless existence where time, gender, and age are undefined. Through various mediums, the Japanese artist investigates our inherent consciousness, exploring what it means to be marked by the past and connected to all life that occurred before us and will exist after us. Held in LA, home to spiritual seekers as well as recent environmental catastrophe, the exhibition offers a universe where all souls prosper as equals, a space where compassion prevails. In this interview, TAKANO provides insight into her worldview and her day-to-day life, asking visitors to look inwards and reconnect with the “radiance of all life.” Read More.

Simin Jalilian Solo Exhibiiton at 68projects by Kornfeld in Berlin

Simin Jalilian, Installation view, 68projects by KORNFELD, 2025, Photo: Andrea Katheder

At 68projects by KORNFELD, Simin Jalilian’s solo exhibition is less a show and more a visceral confrontation. Marking her debut presentation of new paintings in Berlin, the Hamburg-based Iranian artist delivers works that are both urgent and introspective — a searing combination of the biographical and the political, filtered through a painterly language that resists containment.

Jalilian’s brushstrokes do not seek perfection; they pulse with immediacy. Her canvases feel alive, caught in a moment of transformation, where figures and emotions blur into a current of expressionist intensity. The visual tension is palpable: one moment teeters on the brink of despair, another radiates fleeting transcendence.

In Please Don’t Deport, the artist places herself at the heart of a haunting tableau — a deportation scene at an airport. “That’s me,” she says, directly implicating her own fears and the shadow of displacement that haunts many immigrants. Jalilian moved from Tehran to Germany in 2016, and her work speaks directly from that liminal space between belonging and exclusion. The painting is not a plea for pity but a fierce assertion of freedom — artistic, personal, and existential.

Her painting Refugees evokes another fragile threshold: a child being passed across a divide between land and sea. The moment is suspended in light, but not safety. Danger looms, and the ambiguity of survival is never resolved. In Integration, the political becomes intimate. A casual act — opening a beer bottle — becomes a coded ritual of assimilation. The moment is undercut by blood-red fractures beneath the figures, revealing how easily identity and land can break open.

Despite their rootedness in realism, Jalilian’s paintings reject photographic precision. She conjures bodies and landscapes from memory and emotion, not from reference material. The result is work that feels fiercely personal and painterly, drawing on the legacy of German Neo-Expressionism but evolving it with a distinctly female and diasporic urgency. Her mentors may include Werner Büttner, but her voice is unmistakably her own.

In The Wow Effect, even cinema-goers are caught between rapture and blindness — a metaphor for our digital age, perhaps, but also for the dissonance between spectacle and truth. Jalilian’s paintings offer no easy conclusions. Instead, they demand we remain present — alive to instability, beauty, and the enduring human will to remain free.

On view until August 23

Simin Jalilian, Installation view, 68projects by KORNFELD, 2025, Photo: Andrea Katheder

Atlas Loved: Slava Mogutin's Photographic Curation of Queer Romance @ The Bureau of General Services—Queer Division in New York

“What is ‘My Romantic Ideal’? If there were just one, I’d have been able to stop making images searching around the borders of yearning, imagining, and lusting, many years ago. These are some recent attempts at mapping those.” – Robert Flynt

Robert Flynt. Untitled (NPCG; NYC 41), 2023 Unique inkjet photograph on found atlas page (additional image on verso) 11 x 16 inches 

text by Summer Bowie

Like Lee Oscar Lawrie’s sedulously brawny statue of Atlas lunging interminably under the weight of the world in Rockefeller Center, Slava Mogutin has taken on the ambitious charge of defining Queer romance in all of its variegated multitudes. Drawing from the work of twenty-eight artists, his curation coalesces into a comprehensive cohort across the generational and gender spectrums with searingly vulnerable takes on romanticism. Such an endeavor seems only natural considering Mogutin’s personal history of putting himself on the line for the sake of his community. Working in a plurality of media, he has always questioned and prodded the boundaries of sexual freedom, from his early Queer activism and writings for the political weekly newspaper Novy Vzglyad to making the first attempt to register for a same-sex marriage in Russian history with his then-partner, Robert Filippini. As the first Russian citizen to be granted exile in the United States for reasons of homophobic persecution, his commitment through legal and artistic means to broaden our understanding of love and its ultimate liberation remains steadfastly on the frontlines. 

In Mogutin’s “Stone Face (Brian), NYC” (2015), we see an outstretched arm holding almost identical copies of a photograph containing a man’s face partially buried in rocks. More than just a nod to David Wojnarowicz’s “Untitled (Face in Dirt),” we see lower Manhattan’s skyline at sunset on the horizon. Where Wojnarowicz quietly mourns the violent isolation of ultimate abjection, Mogutin’s figure is rendered in print and then literally held by another man in the city of his exile—a photo taken almost a quarter century after Wojnarowicz’s untimely death from AIDS at just thirty-seven years of age. In Stanley Stellar’s “Cherry Grove Kiss, Fire Island” (1990), the man’s entire face emerges from the sand in anticipation of an impassioned kiss. Where Mogutin trades dirt for pebbles, Stellar trades it for sand, making the burial feel elective and impermanent. Made at a time when the AIDS crisis was still looming large, it effectively sublimates the unthinkable trauma of carrying such an insidious burden into not only erotic, but manifestly romantic pleasure.

Slava Mogutin
Stone Face (Brian), NYC, 2015 Offset print, 20 x 27.5 inches Edition of 10 

Stanley Stellar
Cherry Grove Kiss, 1990
Archival analog tinted silver gelatin print
15 x 15 inches, 16 x 20 inches frame
Artist Proof 

Held both literally and figuratively by the Bureau of General Services—Queer Division, My Romantic Ideal implores us to define romanticism on our own terms, knowing that in the process of queering the heteronormative parameters, we normalize our queerness. He is glitching the hegemonic system, à la Legacy Russell, with an unabashed proposal to reexamine our assumed notions of tenderness, intimacy, and beauty. These images represent a disparate yet equally valid selection of possibilities for romantic encounters, both with others and with self. They are safe spaces that are not safe for work, and at times, I can’t help but blush at the thought of sharing them. Some of them are too risqué even for the press kit, like Quil Lemons’s “Untitled (Penetration)”—which is reason enough to see the show in person if you live in New York. Others, like Carter Peabody’s “Bastian Floating,” lean into dreamy ecosexual escapism with an Adonis-like figure floating in sea grass-lined, turquoise waters. “I have only known shame when it comes to love” says Peabody, “For me, romanticism is freedom from heteronormative oppression. The bodies floating in my pieces are unattached to the strict norms of our world and free to feel, explore, and play with the sensuality of the sunlight and water surrounding them. There is an innocence and wonder that takes hold when we become our inner child in search of love, and the judgement of our subconscious just melts away.” Here, romance is imbued in everything surrounding the act of love, rather than in the act itself.

 

Carter Peabody
Bastian Floating, 2025
C-print on Metallic Paper
23.5 x 31.5 inches
Edition 1/12 

 

Benjamin Fredrickson’s “Self-Portrait with Lillies” features the artist sitting nude in a brutalist wooden chair, peering out of a floor-to-ceiling window that reveals a verdant forest. He props his feet on the identical chair facing him with an enormous vase of lilies placed tightly between his legs. If we deign to inquire, we cannot help but notice that he is gently indulging himself with just the tips of his fingers. This sensual, autoerotic moment feels utterly unimpeachable. 

Benjamin Fredrickson
Self-Portrait with Lillies, 2019
Chromogenic print
15x19 inches image, 16x20 inches sheet
Edition of 3+2APs 

Bruce LaBruce’s “Hunk with Sneaker” might be having an autoerotic moment of his own. Then again, he might just be testing that theory about guys with big feet. Berlin-based American photographer Matt Lambert presents us with two new pieces from his forthcoming book If You Can Reach My Heart You Can Keep It. Luridly graphic in content, these images leave us only to imagine what kind of tantric infrared technology he is patenting in his dark room/dungeon. Pierced and penetrating, his figures find themselves interlocked in full coitus with mysteriously luminescent erogenous zones. Berlin-based Spanish photographer Gerardo Vizmanos says, “I have a complicated relationship with the term ‘Romanticism’—I see it as both something we enjoy and something that restricts us … which is why I focus on love and desire instead. They offer a more radical, utopian force—one I strive to capture in my photography.” His dancer performs a preposterously blasé hamstring stretch, his entire body giving rise to the kinds of questions often inspired by an ample-when-flaccid endowment.

Bruce LaBruce
Hunk with Sneaker, 2008
Digital C-print
11 x 14 inches
Edition of 1/5 

Gerardo Vizmanos
Dancer, 2024
Archival Pigment Print
8 x 10 inches
Edition of 7 

Matt Lambert
Warm Amour, Paris, 2017
Thermal Imaging C-print
20 x 24 inches
Edition 1/5 

Of course, no collection of photography on the subject of Queer romance would be complete without the work of Paul Mpagi Sepuya. His intimate studio portraits meditate on the vulnerable interplay of sensuality and performativity between artist and subject—that ineffable power dynamic inherent in every nude portrait since time immemorial. In all of these artists, we see an earnest motion to decouple our fantasies with any notions of shame or fear—to let them not only be conspicuous but copyrighted in our names. 

 
 

My Romantic Ideal is on view through August 31 @ The Bureau of General Services—Queer Division 208 West 13th Street Room 210, New York

A Democratic Eye On London: Dennis Morris @ the Photographers’ Gallery

 

Dennis Morris, Johnny Rotten, backstage at the Marquee club, London, 1977 © Dennis Morris.

 


text by Poppy Baring


Known mainly for his celebrity portraits and coverage of stars like Bob Marley, Oasis, the Sex Pistols, and other early punk and reggae icons, Dennis Morris’s new solo exhibition at the Photographers’ Gallery in London also features his lesser known reportage work. Music + Life is a three-floor presentation of Morris’s life documenting everything from the pride and resilience of post-war Black British culture to the rarefied inner sanctum of the music industry. 

These pictures don’t have an angle they’re attempting to make plain. Instead, they provide us with a rare and personal glimpse into the lives of mega music stars in their youth. They are candid images taken between friends. Morris thereby reveals naturally occurring gems of moments that are refreshing, intoxicating, and remarkably at ease. His approach was nothing more than knocking on a door; the door would open, and he would go from there. 

 

Dennis Morris, Oasis Backstage in Tokyo, 1994 © Dennis Morris.

 

Starting at the age of eight, and landing his first cover on London’s Daily Mirror at just eleven years old, it is clear that Morris had a strong passion for photography early on, as well as the determination to take it places. His remarkable career started when St. Mark’s church in Dalston, where he sang in the choir, started a camera club. Influenced heavily by reportage photography, which was a favored style at the time, Morris began photographing his environment in East London. In 1973, this progressed into skipping school so that he could take photos of Bob Marley as he entered sound check. Almost straight after, when Morris was just fourteen, Marley asked him to join and document the Catch a Fire tour. Young Dennis Morris accepted and, as they did for several artists, his photographs became key to the marketing and making of Marley’s career.

Dennis Morris, The Abyssinians, outtake from the photo shoot for the album Arise, 1977 © Dennis Morris.

While these authentic photographs of famous musicians provide a behind-the-scenes look into the lives of stars past, his exploration into London’s Hackney in the 1970s surveys another fascinating world. Although areas like Dalston and Hackney are now sought-after places to live, the pictures taken in his early career show just how much London has changed in the last fifty years. Morris explains his approach, saying in his interview, “If I’m in the studio, it’s like I’m on the street; if I’m on the street, it’s like I’m in the studio.” Overall, this creates a nice balance to the exhibition—one which raises East London to stardom and renders celebrity as rather quotidian.

Music + Life is on view through September 28 at the Photographers’ Gallery, 16-18 Ramillies Street, London, W1F7LW

Dennis Morris, Untitled, 1970s © Dennis Morris.

Bogotá Rising: Notes on Resilience, Conviviality, and Experimental Art

San Felipe neighborhood skies

text & images by Perry Shimon

Colombia’s art scene is in the midst of a dynamic resurgence. After a prolonged lockdown that temporarily stalled the country’s cultural momentum, activity is ramping up again in anticipation of the fall season, anchored by Bogotá’s ARTBO fair, and two biennials in Bogotá and Medellín. Despite longstanding infrastructural and political challenges, the country has maintained a vibrant landscape of artist-run spaces, project-based initiatives, and strong public engagement.

In this mountain-wreathed brick city with a breathtaking theater of clouds, I had the great pleasure of seeing and meeting much of Bogotá’s cultural ecosystem. In May of this year, I attended a curatorial intensive organized by Mahazabin Haque (All About Curating, Berlin) and The Art Dome (Miami / Bogotá), which brought together artists, curators, and researchers, with warmth and conviviality, for a tightly packed itinerary of visits across studios, institutions, collections, archives, and impromptu social spaces. What emerged was a portrait of a cultural landscape with unique presence, community, improvisation, and resilience.

Telecom Building, student graduate show

One of the most memorable visits was to the dilapidated Telecom Tower—a relic of privatization now reimagined as a vertical commons. After organizing a group exhibition in the building in 2024, Linda Pongutá, William Contreras Alfonso, and Maria Leguízamo went on to occupy several floors, establishing studios, residencies, site-specific exhibitions, and performances. They also began developing an initiative to create a rotating museum showcasing works by the building’s members. During our visit, one floor hosted a student show, several artists graciously welcomed us into their studios, and independent publisher David Medina was at work on a new book project. In the elevator, the partisan resistance anthem Bella Ciao played on loop.

Gloria Sebastián Fierro Castro

Artist and teacher Ana María Montenegro gave a tour, describing a conceptual performance in which she was visiting each of Bogotá’s eighty notaries to have officially notarized a simple and rather philosophical promise: that she would be someone different tomorrow than she was today. Artist Juan Betancurth, who administers the artist residency program, gave an impromptu tour of his studio where he sculpturally assembles found objects into disquieting meditations on power, desire, and art. Nearby, Gloria Sebastián Fierro Castro showed us their haunting textile and tar works, drawn from a family archive that traces their transition from rural life to running a gas station—a stark emblem of modernization in a sepia-toned desert landscape.

Curator Nicolás Gómez Echeverri at Museo de Arte Miguel Urrutia

The archive loomed large in other ways. At the Museo de Arte Miguel Urrutia, curator Nicolás Gómez Echeverri walked us through a collection tour that will soon be dismantled and rethought under his guidance. The planned rehanging will confront the colonial scaffolding of the existing display, seeking ways to integrate Colombia’s extensive institutional holdings into a narrative that accounts for omissions and regionalism. Among the exceptional paintings of Fídolo Alfonso González Camargo, Obregón, and Cárdenas Arroyo, was a series of anonymous 18th-century convent funerary portraits: powerful images with uncertain authorship, quietly haunting and unsettling the canon.

Hadra Waheed’s Hum in Doris Salcedo’s counter-monument

At Fragmentos, artist Doris Salcedo’s “counter-monument” to Colombia’s armed conflict, we walked across a geographic-feeling topography of thirty-seven tons of hand-hammered metal tiles made from weapons turned in after the FARC peace agreement. In the adjacent courtyard, a deteriorating colonial ruin serves as the setting for Hum, a multi-channel sound installation by Canadian artist Hadra Waheed, which gathers protest songs from across the world into a reflective, almost devotional field. 

Juan Cortés Studio Visit

Memory was also the subject of a project we encountered in the studio of Juan Cortés, who shared a recent collaboration initiated by the Colombian president: a digital map of “houses of memory”—community archives, cultural centers, and alternative institutions preserving regional histories. The ambitious and exemplary project is part oral history, part visual archive, part social cartography, and a model for a new possible infrastructure for collective memory.

María Adelaida Samper giving a tour of Gabriel Zea’s Mystic Capital at the Al Romero gallery

Elsewhere, in San Felipe, Gabriel Zea’s Mystic Capital, at the Al Romero House Gallery, staged capitalism as a religion. Tarot-inspired AI works illustrated symbolic systems of belief in the market, as well as its impoverished aims and overdetermined meanings. An accompanying video installation collaged cartoonish bull and bear imagery into frenetic and tumultuous booms and busts. Zea’s collective, Aliens, curated the show with María Adelaida Samper. It both estranged the givenness of our cosmologically proportioned faith in markets and situated it in a longue durée continuum of numerology, mysticism, superstition, power, and grave consequences.

Tienda de Esperanza, San Felipe

Chuco Candela in Lavamoa Tumba

Tienda culture emerged as one of the more poetic and socially alive throughlines of the trip. These ubiquitous corner stores often moonlight as salons, exhibition spaces, and places of convivial gathering. Artist Chuco Candela’s intervention at Tienda de Esperanza turned an already beloved Macarena landmark into an exhibition space for his and his friends’ often meme-themed ceramics. Later, in San Felipe, his second location hosted a massive street party with fireworks for its opening. He later invited us to visit his most recent exhibition in his ongoing Lavamoa Tumba project—enormous, sprawling group shows in condemned buildings, this edition featuring 150 artists, and overflowing with energy, humor, and street-rooted practices.

Trepesitos fashion show at Odeon

After a fashion show by Trepesitos at the majestic theater-turned-exhibition space and artful community center Odeón, we ended the night in a tienda playing bolirana, a barroom sport that fuses pre-Columbian tradition with contemporary nightlife, popular with both Reggaeton and contemporary artists. It is perhaps to bowling what ping pong is to tennis and invites loud and playful sociality. Odeón’s Tatiana Rais and Juan Sebastián Peláez, formerly of the Miami Gallery and Carne Collective, began sharing insights about Colombia’s commitment to public art funding and the system of rotating independent art professionals who administer allocations for artist projects and spaces. While there is not a strong enough local market to support the many practicing artists, this type of public funding supports the scene to some extent and underwrites less commercially oriented works. 

María Morán at Cooperates

Charlie Mai exhibition and talk at Plural

We visited artist-run Cooperates studios and residency in Chapinero, anchored by the painter and teacher María Morán, and the communal Plural project—part art space, part kitchen—where Chinese-American artist Charlie Mai was showing an installation with a series of performances reflecting on Chinese capital, North/South American labor, transportation infrastructure, and hybrid identity. We were sad to miss the closing party with a durational cowboy performance, Chinese dragon dancing, and DJ set by underground club hero DJ Bclip.

José Darío Gutiérrez at Espacio El Dorado

At Espacio El Dorado, José Darío Gutiérrez gave a highlights tour of his impressive collection of overlooked political Colombian art and their marginalization through Cold War-era collecting policies imposed by major Western foundations. During our visit, a young scholar from Buenos Aires working on a curatorial project about political photographers and left-wing conferences overheard the conversation and joined our group, offering a recently published dissertation called “The Cultural Cold War in Colombia: Oil and Washington’s Policies for ‘Pacification’ of Art in Conspiratorial Times” by Christian Padilla Peñuela that Jose was coincidentally trying to place with a publisher. As we were leaving I noticed the young man and Jose in a deep thoughtful conversation, Jose generously retrieving books from his collection to give as gifts. 

Taller Arte Gráfico

Subachoque

Perhaps the most moving experience of the trip was a pair of visits to Taller Arte Gráfico and Sextante, founded by Luis Ángel Parra and María Eugenia Niño fifty years ago. They welcomed us warmly to their Bogotá gallery and country atelier in Subachoque and let us marvel at the breathtaking collection amassed over a lifetime of artful collaboration. They described their printmaking and publishing practice as a ‘love story’ and shared how they met fifty years ago, moved in on that very same day, and have been together ever since. We learned a few days after our visit that sculptor Hugo Zapata—a dear friend of theirs, whose works were on display in the gallery—had passed away, making the visit a poignant and beautiful parting gift.

Subachoque

Hugo Zapata

There were countless other stops: Liz Caballero’s impressive three-story SKETCH Gallery, La Casita’s misleadingly named sprawling intergenerational and dialogic collection, Casa Hoffmann’s austere kinetic and music themed program, NC-Arte’s gorgeous design villa, Desborde Gallery’s anarchic installation and performance works by Alfonso Aguas Negras, a tour of artist duo Eduard Moreno & Andrea Marín García studio and upcoming works for the Medellín biennial, perhaps the world’s most significant pre-Columbian metalwork collection at the Oro Museum, and a very moving studio visit with the young Bogotá-born-and-raised painter Angie Vega, whose extraordinarily skillful intimate portraits of her Tunjuelito neighborhood familiars had garnered her invitations to apprentice with master painters in Europe and Saint Petersburg. The lingering impressions from this vibrant and flourishing art ecosystem were its warm hospitality, generous sociality, and a sense of experimentation that felt neither reactionary nor utopic, rather present, responsive, and open.

SKETCH Gallery

Daniela Acosta Parsons and Danilo Roa’s studio

Jeronimo Villa at La Casita

Angie Vega

Lia García in her studio

Camilo Bojaca at Galería El Museo

Miller Lagos in his studio

Studio of Andrea Marín García & Eduard Moreno

Mauricio Gallego in his studio

.

Alfonso Aguas Negras at Desborde Galería

Hugo Zapata at Sextante

Theatron

Cloud theater

Put On A Face, Any Face: Read An Interview of Kenny Scharf & Curator Shai Baitel

Courtesy of Roger Davies

It’s not often that an artist and a curator connect the way Kenny Scharf and Shai Baitel do. Emotional, the biggest show of Scharf’s career, didn’t come out of a typical museum timeline or curatorial trend. It came from Baitel’s urgent feeling of injustice that the art world hadn’t given Scharf the recognition he deserved, and he wanted to change that. When we spoke, Scharf joined the Zoom call straight from his studio, answering questions with a paintbrush in hand. It felt intimate and telling: Scharf doesn’t separate art from life. His world is constantly in motion, fueled by color, feeling, and spontaneity.

The dynamics between Scharf and Baitel set the tone for a conversation that highlighted the reverent partnership between them, whose collaborative spirit is at the heart of the exhibition. What initially started as an interview about an art show quickly turned into a rhythmic conversation about friendships, personal stories, timing, and how things can easily fall into place when two people believe in the same thing.

Scharf came up in the late seventies and early eighties in New York, rubbing shoulders with Basquiat and Haring, bringing a psychedelic, cartoon-fueled energy that set him apart. He paints like he’s channeling something from another planet, but also something deeply familiar and simple. Emotional is more than a retrospective—It’s a long-overdue celebration of a singular voice in contemporary art. Read more.

BHAKTI—Krishna’s Grace Celebrates the Transformative Power of Devotion @ NMACC in Mumbai

Bhakti opens an immersive and enlightening dialogue between the viewer and devotional art. It showcases artworks made in reverence of Krishna.

 

Shreenathji in Divine Adornment – A Pichwai painting capturing the grace and splendour of Krishna in his Govardhan-lifting form, resplendent in intricate jewels and devotional symbolism.

 

text and photographs by Parrie Chhajed

In a world where devotion often lives quietly—in morning rituals, household shrines, whispered prayers, and temple bells—Bhakti elevates it to a form of collective artistic expression. It draws from the everyday but expands into the eternal. This summer, the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC)—a multidisciplinary arts space dedicated to preserving and promoting India’s artistic heritage across visual art, performance, design, and culture—presents Bhakti—Krishna’s Grace. The exhibition reflects on the divine power of Krishna and the devotional path of bhakti through the evolving lenses of art, history, and lived spirituality. It explores how the transformation of humankind and landscapes has unfolded through sacred narratives. Perspectives from artists, devotees, and storytellers converge to honor the enduring presence of Vishnu in Indian spiritual and artistic traditions.

Chennai-based art historian Ashvin E. Rajagopalan’s curation brings together myth, memory, and material practice. As Director of the Piramal Art Foundation, he helped establish the Piramal Museum of Art in Mumbai and founded Ashvita’s, a cultural platform for emerging and established Indian artists.

Ananta Shayana Vishnu – A sculptural depiction of cosmic repose, where Lord Vishnu lies on the serpent Ananta as creation begins, watched over by Brahma and Lakshmi in celestial harmony.

The journey begins with Vishnu’s Dream, a specially commissioned centerpiece anchoring the exhibition’s cosmological vision. A visual timeline follows—moving from early human settlements and cave dwellings to ancient temple architecture, culminating in a sensorial reconstruction of Tamil Nadu’s Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, highlighting sacred geometry and cosmic design in early Indian architecture.

One of the more thought-provoking parallels often drawn in this context is between Vishnu’s Dashavatar and Darwin’s Theory of Evolution. Though rooted in mythology and science respectively, the progression of the avatars appears to echo the arc of life—from Matsya (fish) to Kurma (tortoise) to Varaha (boar) and Narasimha (man-lion), symbolising transitions from aquatic life to mammals to early humans. The later avatars—Vamana, Parashurama, Rama, Krishna, and Buddha—map onto stages of human development, from survival and order to emotional and spiritual evolution. Kalki, the final avatar, possibly hints at a future transformation—ecological or spiritual. Whether coincidental or intuitive, the parallel adds another dimension to the global relevance of these spiritual and religious perspectives.

This theme continues in the Crafts Village, where master artisans from across India demonstrate traditional techniques—sculpting, weaving, painting—that keep devotional practices alive. Over forty rare artworks and sculptures, many publicly displayed for the first time, celebrate diverse expressions of Krishna devotion through literature, performance, and material culture.

Among the highlights is a Pattachitra painting, created on a long scroll using the traditional storytelling technique from Odisha and West Bengal. Known for its delicate linework, vibrant natural pigments, and decorative floral borders, Pattachitra was historically used by chitrakars (scroll painters) to narrate epics and myths door-to-door—functioning much like what we today call storyboards. This particular scroll illustrates the birth and early life of Lord Krishna, beginning with the divine prophecy that he would end the tyranny of his uncle Kansa. The narrative unfolds as Kansa imprisons his sister Devaki and brother-in-law Vasudeva, and kills their first seven children. When Krishna is born, divine forces intervene—the prison gates open, the guards fall asleep, and Vasudeva carries the newborn across the stormy Yamuna River to safety in Gokul, where he is raised by Yashoda and Nanda. Each sequential panel captures a moment of this miraculous tale, blending devotional intensity with visual rhythm and artistic finesse.

Raas Leela – A celebratory textile painting capturing the divine dance of Krishna and the gopis, where love, rhythm, and surrender unfold beneath celestial trees and blooming devotion.

Another striking work uses the Rajasthani miniature painting technique, likely inspired by the Kishangarh or Mewar school of thought. With detailed landscapes and a radiant saffron sky, it portrays Radha and Krishna in a divine forest encounter, reflecting the tradition’s romanticism and spiritual subtlety.

In contrast, a painting in the Tanjore style celebrates Krishna’s childhood as Nandkishor and Makhanlal. This South Indian form is known for its bold colors, raised relief work, and gold leaf detailing. The depiction captures Krishna’s playful charm and the devotional love surrounding his early years in Vrindavan.

Tying these expressions together is the philosophy of idol worship in Hinduism, where God is both formless (nirguna) and with form (saguna). Idols become focal points of devotion after rituals like prana pratishta, inviting divine presence into sacred forms. Spiritually and psychologically, they anchor memory, imagination, and connection, serving as both mirror and portal for inner transformation.

Bhakti is more than an exhibition—it is a multi-sensory invitation to witness how art, myth, and memory intertwine to express the sacred. It reminds us that devotion is not static;it evolves, adapts, and continues to offer grace in ever-new forms.

Bhakti—Krishna’s Grace is on view through August 17 at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC), Mumbai 

 

Installation view of BHAKTI—Krishna’s Grace at Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre, Mumbai.

 

Rick Owens' Retrospective Is A Paean to the Designer's California Roots @ Palais Galliera in Paris

Rick Owens, Temple Of Love is a meditation on romance, beauty, and diversity. It archives one of today’s leading designers, transforming the museum into a shrine to creativity.

 

Courtesy of Palais Galliera

 

text by Kim Shveka

Rick Owens, Temple of Love is the first exhibition in Paris dedicated to fashion designer Rick Owens, which he creative directed himself. The massive retrospective features collections from his beginning in Los Angeles through his most recent theatrical runways in Paris’s Palais de Tokyo.

With his radical fusion of Gothic Romanticism, Brutalism, and Minimalism, which often provokes social and political themes on his runways, Rick Owens has long been known as fashion’s avant-garde designer. His aesthetic challenges conventional notions of beauty, gender, and form, often occupying a space between fashion, performance art, and architecture.

In the exhibition, we gain rare insight into the designer’s creative inner world, understanding how his references come to life and the ideas that lie behind his work. Gustave Moreau, Joseph Beuys, and Steven Parrino were among Owens’s sources of inspiration, resonating with his embrace of destruction as creation, the usage of art as a vehicle for criticism, and the glorification of beauty through excess. The exhibition also focuses on the central role played by his lifelong wife and muse, Michèle Lamy, whose presence is always felt through Owens. We get an intimate glimpse into the couple’s private world through a recreation of their California bedroom, designed using pieces from Owens’ furniture line. Just beyond the wall, their closet room is unveiled, with dark garments loosely folded next to a packed bookshelf. This section of the exhibition feels like a genuine invitation into their daily lives, where we are meant to truly feel their presence. The air itself is infused with Rick Owens’ signature scent, activating all five senses for a complete journey through their rituals.  

 

Courtesy of Palais Galliera

 

In another room, plastered with “No photos please” signs, stands perhaps the most Rick Owens-esque piece in the exhibition: a towering statue of Rick himself, mid-urination. It reads as the most cynical, provocative fountain since Marcel Duchamp.

The exhibition is extended throughout the entirety of the Palais Galliera campus, as well as the outside garden, wherein California-native plants and vines surround thirty brutalist cement sculptures. Above the garden is the building of the exhibition, whose windows display three colossal statues of Owens covered head to toe in gold. Owens saw the importance of finishing his retrospective with his origin, California. As a designer whose presence casts a looming glunge shadow over the City of Light, it’s easy even for him to overlook his roots in the Sunshine State.

Courtesy of Palais Galliera

Rick Owens, Temple of Love is on view through January 4, 2026 at Palais Galliera, 10 Av. Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris

Louis Vuitton SS26: Pharrell Williams' India Is Rooted in Reality, Rendered in Reverence

With a hand-painted Snakes and Ladders set, coffee-hued denim, and cinematic embroidery, Pharrell Williams' SS26 collection for Louis Vuitton reimagines India not as spectacle, but as substance.

 

Image courtesy of : Louis Vuitton

 

text by Parrie Chhajed

In Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, Pharrell Williams looks east, not for ornament, but for essence. India emerges not as a motif but as a moodboard: one defined by color, craft, and quiet charisma. Far from the reductive tropes often seen in luxury fashion’s attempts to ‘globalize,’ Williams’ India is observational, tactile, and purposefully translated.

The show set, created in collaboration with celebrated architect Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai, was a towering hand-painted wooden interpretation of Snakes and Ladders, India’s traditional board game. It was an immediate statement: playful, rooted in storytelling, and intentionally handcrafted—an homage to India’s material cultures rather than its monuments. A.R. Rahman’s “Yaara Punjabi” set the sonic tone, blending seamlessly into the aesthetic narrative.

Williams and his team spent time in New Delhi, Mumbai, and Jaipur in the lead-up to the collection, absorbing India not through fashion history books but by walking through markets, workshops, and city streets. “You won’t see any tunics or anything like that,” Williams said backstage. “What we were inspired by from India were the colors.” And indeed, the palette tells the story. Black is replaced with a regal purple-blue. Camel becomes a dusty beige. Denim appears in a never-seen-before “coffee indigo,” inspired by Indian filter coffee and designed to fade gracefully into white thread, like sun-worn cotton.

The silhouettes, too, reflect this shift—from conventional tailoring to something more intuitive. Think relaxed pleated trousers worn with leather flip-flops, pajama-stripe jackets, robe coats, and flowing layers. There’s a sense of ease here that feels lived-in rather than styled, a softness that alludes to India’s informal luxury—the kind found in hand-pressed cotton, creased linen, and clothes shaped by climate.

A particularly poetic detail: Louis Vuitton resurrects the animal motifs originally created for The Darjeeling Limited (2007), revisiting its visual dialogue with India in a new context. Hand-embroidered zebras, palm trees, and cheetahs reappear across cashmere coats, safari jackets, and luggage—a cinematic nod refined for the runway.

Yet this was no costume drama. The collection delivered on commercial pragmatism with buttery leather outerwear, clean-cut blazers, tonal shirts, and the Maison’s signature monogrammed baggage. Everyday wear was elevated with micro-beading, metallic threadwork, and even a shell suit fully woven from metal yarn. There’s experimentation, but it's controlled, audacious without being theatrical.

 
 

Pharrell’s respect for Indian craftsmanship is unmistakable. He describes his visits to printmaking studios and embroidery ateliers as the most meaningful moments of the journey. “What art and painting is to Paris, textiles and embroidery are to India,” he said. That respect materialized in garments enriched with lace, hand-placed stones, and artisanal techniques that elevate rather than overwhelm.

This wasn’t Williams’ first Indian reference. In 2018, he launched an Adidas collection inspired by Holi. But this time, the tone is mature and rooted in research. Less festival, more foundation. It’s an India experienced rather than imagined—drawn not just from its celebrations, but its subtleties.

 

Image coutsey of Louis Vuitton

 

“I’m personally a global citizen,” Williams said. “Storytelling provides context. And when you provide context, it makes it easier for people to understand what your true intentions are.”

And that’s perhaps the collection’s greatest strength—it doesn’t speak over India; it listens to it. In a time when global references can quickly slip into appropriation, Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton stands out for its clarity of intention and depth of execution. The result isn’t just a collection inspired by India; it’s one in conversation with it.

SS26 proves that India isn’t a detour in luxury—it’s a destination. And for Louis Vuitton, it’s a terrain rich enough not just to inspire, but to shape the future of menswear.

The Art of Impossible Perfection: Demna’s Final Couture Statement at Balenciaga

“I have come as close as possible to being satisfied in this endless pursuit of impossible perfection,” writes Demna in his farewell to Balenciaga couture, marking the close of a transformative decade at the helm of one of fashion’s most revered maisons. The 54th Couture Collection is not merely a finale; it is a culmination—a poetic, exacting thesis on craftsmanship, silhouette, and legacy. Shot across Paris and laid bare in both look and making, the collection fuses the radical spirit of Cristóbal Balenciaga with Demna’s own uncompromising vision for the future of fashion: personal, sculptural, and exquisitely strange.

A corresponding film directed by Gianluca Migliarotti—known for his documentary O’Mast on Neapolitan tailoring—offers rare access into the meticulous inner workings of the House’s couture ateliers. In it, premières, tailors, and designers narrate the multi-layered labor behind each garment. The documentary traces the making of corseted gowns, reconstructed archival silhouettes, and collaborations with legendary artisans like Maison Lemarié, William Amor, and fan-maker Duvelleroy. It is a film not just of fashion, but of devotion—a love letter to the human hands that define couture.

The collection opens with a tribute to “La Bourgeoisie,” a term once synonymous with conformity, now mined for its elegance and severity. Tailored jackets bear tulip lapels that frame the face like armor; high collars evoke both Medici nobility and Nosferatu’s haunting grace. In Demna’s hands, bourgeois tropes are recoded—pierced with irony, elegance, and a commanding silhouette. “Garments are sculptural and intricate in their construction,” he notes, “while embracing minimalism and reduction in their architecture.” This paradox—maximal form through minimal means—runs like a seam throughout the collection.

Corsetry, once an instrument of feminine discipline, is reengineered for comfort across ten different looks. An airy pink debutante dress in technical Japanese organza, a diva gown encrusted in black sequins, and a draped one-seam gown conjure Old Hollywood glamour as seen through a funhouse mirror. These are not nostalgic recreations—they’re cinematic hallucinations. A “mink” coat made from embroidered feathers, worn by Kim Kardashian as a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor, is paired with the actress’s actual diamond pendant earrings, on loan from Lorraine Schwartz. Over 1,000 carats of custom jewelry glimmer throughout the collection—white diamonds, Padparadsha sapphires, and canary yellow stones—turning the runway into a constellation of light.

Other garments are grounded in quiet subversion. A silk bomber jacket becomes as featherweight as tissue; a summer taffeta blouson transforms into businesswear via sleight of hand. One standout detail: 300 kilometers of tufted embroidery used to create trompe-l’œil corduroy pants, a feat of excess that reads as effortlessness. “They’re the first ‘corduroy’ pants I want to wear,” Demna says, with a wink toward comfort as luxury.

A standout thread in both the show and its documentary is tailoring—specifically the collaboration with four family-run Neapolitan ateliers. Nine suits, developed as “one-size-fits-all” garments measured on a bodybuilder, are modeled on a diverse cast of bodies. “It is not the garment that defines the body, but the body that defines the garment,” Demna writes. This democratic inversion of couture’s traditional ethos suggests a radical inclusivity. Migliarotti’s camera captures the intimacy of fittings, the choreography of needle and cloth, the philosophy of hands that have stitched for generations.

Heritage and transformation are braided throughout. A 1957 floral print from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archives resurfaces on a sequined skirt suit. A replica of a 1967 houndstooth look once worn by Danielle Slavik, one of the house’s original muses, becomes the “Danielle” suit. Each is a memory made tactile. The finale gown—a seamless guipure lace sculpture shaped using millinery techniques—embodies the house’s entire language in a single garment: restraint and drama, memory and innovation, body and architecture.

The accessories deepen the message. Logos on bags are replaced by the wearer’s name, subverting the idea of branded status. Duvelleroy fans, recreated over nearly 200 hours of craft, flutter like time machines: one from 1895, another from 1905. Flower brooches are crafted from discarded tissue paper and silk, offering waste a new role as adornment. Even the couture sneaker—handmade using traditional shoemaking techniques—feels like a manifesto: this is couture for the street, couture for now.

Demna’s voice is not the only one heard. The soundtrack of the show features the names of his team—an act of collective authorship, a rare moment of ego dissolution in a field known for solitary genius. This final gesture is perhaps the most emotional: a house, after all, is not built alone.

As Demna departs Balenciaga couture, he leaves behind not a collection, but a philosophy. Couture is not anachronism—it is resistance. It is an art of slowness, of refusal, of obsessive care in a time of disposability. “This collection is the perfect way for me to finish my decade at Balenciaga,” he writes. “The ultimate minimal sculptural gown…represents everything this House stands for.”

What does Balenciaga stand for now? In this collection: freedom, contradiction, legacy, reinvention. A house haunted by its past, electrified by its present, and—through the ghost stitch of every seam—already dreaming of what comes next.

Balenciaga by Demna: The End of An Era

At Kering's Paris headquarters, a one-time exhibition unfolds Demna's work for Balenciaga, featuring pieces across 30 collections from the past decade.

 
 

In the historic Kering headquarters at 40 Rue de Sèvres, lies Demna Gvasalia’s resume from the last decade at Balenciaga. A decade of radical creation and endless ideas unfolded in this complete, uncensored retrospective, curated by Demna himself.

Demna’s magnitude as a designer cannot be denied, although many critics have tried; this exhibit shows his credentials as a creative force, a marketing genius, and a brilliant couturier. Through 101 selected pieces, we are taken through Demna’s aesthetic autopsy, inviting us to explore how the designer revolutionized the face of contemporary fashion, challenged pre-established rules, and posed a satirical lens on society through his designs.

Demna had become a synonym for oversized, deconstructed silhouettes and has deeply influenced fashion’s embrace of streetwear, often sparking controversy with his idea of wearable casual wear.

The exhibition opens with a rejection letter Demna received in 2007 from Balenciaga, which reads: "Dear Demna, Thank you for your interest in an internship at the Menswear Design Team at Balenciaga. We've carefully reviewed your application and, after consideration, we will not be moving forward with your candidacy at this time. Your profile will remain on file should future opportunities come up."

This email isn’t about holding a grudge, but rather a gentle reminder that rejection can often be a redirection toward something greater, like in Demna’s case, where missing out on an internship led to becoming a creative director.

Now, as he prepares for his last couture show, Demna concludes his long journey with the presumption that his force cannot be denied, and we’re left longing to see his new chapter in Gucci.

 

Courtesy of Balenciaga

 

Balenciaga by Demna is on view from June 26 through July 9, at 40 Rue de Sèvres, 75007, Paris.

Encounters at the Barbican: Giacometti x Huma Bhabha

Special Guest Star, 2016. Huma Bhabha. Clay, wood, wire, t-shirt, acrylic, tin, paint brush, White Tailed Deer horns, and steel. Overall: 39 3/4 x 94 x 13 3/8 inches. Image credit: Kerry McFate. Courtesy of the artist and David Zwirner Gallery

text by Poppy Baring

The Barbican’s Level 2 gallery reopened in May with a joint exhibition featuring sculptures by Alberto Giacometti and Huma Bhabha. Encounters: Giacometti x Huma Bhabha features works, some of which are nearly a century old, that explore the human figure, the trauma it faces, and the process of survival. This ‘dialogue across time’ allows viewers to examine the artists’ responses to human vulnerability, violence, and displacement, and is the first time Bhabha has exhibited her work at a public London gallery.

The entrance upon arrival is currently home to four titan-aged bronze sculptures made by Bhabha. Debuted in New York last year, where the artist currently lives, these figures are being displayed in Europe for the very first time. Continuing inside, visitors encounter The Glade” (Composition with nine figures), created in 1950 by Giacometti, a small tabletop sculpture that marked a significant shift in Giacometti’s practice. These supremely thin, isolated figures were created to capture people as they were, vulnerably themselves, on the street. 

Alberto Giacometti holding Three Men Walking, 1940s, Photo: anonymous, Silver print on paper, 11.9 x 17.2 cm, Archives Fondation Giacometti. © Succession Alberto Giacometti / Adagp, Paris 2024


Giacometti’s observation of individuals “coming and going...unconscious and mechanical... each having an air of moving on its own, quite alone,” inspired how Bhabha approached the composition of the exhibition. She sets sculptures up as groups and allows visitors to potentially cross paths with these works, as though the space were a public street, bringing a sense of life and interaction to the statues. The message becomes progressively clearer, as phantom-like, vulnerable figures gradually replace fragmented works. Collectively, both these artists’ work point to conflict and highlight its effects as human life becomes increasingly disfigured.

This exhibition is entirely suited to the Barbican. As far as Giacometti is concerned, he made some of his most significant pieces at the same time as the Barbican was under construction. Art and architecture made in this post-war period are often considered a response to the brutality of the Second World War, and both Giacometti’s work and the gallery, at that time, proposed a new (not so fresh) perspective on what it means to live and be human. The non-materialisticness of the work and the space that surrounds it creates a mass of meaningful beauty that explores a way of thinking where art is deemed crucial to living.

The Encounters: Giacometti x Huma Bhabha exhibition is on view through August 10th 2025 at the Barbican, Silk Street, London, EC2Y 8DS.

 

What Should it Be, 2024, Huma Bhabha. Painted and patinated bronze and concrete pedestal. 44 3/4 x 31 x 31 inches. Photo credit: Kerry McFate. Courtesy of the artist and David Zwirner Gallery


 

It Has Its Own Presence: Read an Interview of Ceramicist Kathy Butterly

Photo credit: Alan Weiner

Kathy Butterly, sixty-two, is one of forty-one women whose work is being showcased at The Grey Art Museum’s exhibition, Anonymous Was A Woman. The show celebrates the recipients of the grant, anonymously awarded to mid-career women artists living and working in the United States. Butterly’s three ceramic sculptures—Heavy Head (2002), Chinese Landscape (2005), and Garter (1996)—are three of the 251 works on display until July 19, 2025. 

Butterly, born in Amityville, New York, splits her time between New York City and Maine. “If I didn’t have Maine as an outlet, I don’t think I’d still be in New York,” she said over the phone from her home in Maine. Butterly did not come from an art family—one of the reasons she initially believed she would study interior design over an art like ceramics. But once she began studying at Moore College of Art and Design, where she met American sculptor Viola Frey, she discovered her passion for combining painting and sculpture. While she sipped juice from a wine glass and I coffee from a ceramic mug, we talked about the evolution of her work, her Anonymous Was a Woman grant, and the different functions of the interiors and exteriors of her lively sculptures. Read more.