To coincide with Frieze London, Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel, of Mansur Gavriel, collaborated closely with the Calder estate and Alexander Calder’s grandson, Sandy Rower, to create a limited edition capsule collection consisting of four of the brand’s classic bag silhouettes, each featuring one of four iconic Calder artworks painted onto the exterior. The full collection drops on October 2, 2019.
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Founded in 1989, Union’s history first started in New York’s Soho with the gracious ambition of giving a space to young, local designers on their way to recognition. The Los Angeles shop followed a few years later and strived to maintain the same principle born thirty years ago: embracing the creativity of fresh designers within the city while being inspired by trends coming from Japan and the UK. Union Los Angeles has now become one of LA’s prime destinations for men's contemporary fashion and streetwear. Earlier this month, Chris Gibbs, who used to work at the original NYC shop and is now the owner and operator behind Union LA, announced Union’s first ever collaboration with a national retailer: Nordstrom. Click here to read more.
Endocannibalism X Exocannibalism – The Los Angeles-based artist, Sterling Ruby’s first runway presentation at the gorgeous Le Pagliere in Firenze, Italy was a triumphant clash of tribalism, studio wear, bleach splatters, dark natural landscapes and a chilling romanticism. Presenting a form of soft sculpture on the runway, Ruby’s first collection is autobiographical, a chart through cloth of Ruby’s life, influences, fantasies and reality. The references include heavy metal and punk album cover art, Amish and Mennonite dress, and Ruby’s own geographical journey across America, from his rural upbringing in Pennsylvania to Los Angeles, California. The craft language of American folk tradition - of crafting, mending, the patchworking of quilts - is here embedded in garments, whose worked surfaces are a map of the journey of their making. The first drops are available here and here. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper
The Guest Nation China project culminates with the fashion show of the Chinese duo Pronounce, the experimental fashion brand established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou in the Dogana, will be launching the SS 2020 collection “A Fresh Dig” on the catwalk, along with reinterpretations of Converse Jack Purcell shoes. The special event is organized with the support of Labelhood, incubator of emerging designers and one of the most innovative retailers in China, and of V/Collective, international creative agency based in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Hong Kong. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper
The Gucci Garden , a place dedicated to the heritage of the Florentine brand, a constantly evolving laboratory created by the Creative Director of the Maison Alessandro Michele, chooses a new layout for his Period Room and Pitti Uomoto reveal his new clothes. The story of the creation of Jayde Fish and the imaginative phrases of Coco Capitán give way to a series of unpublished walls, created by two artists, capable of involving the visitor and talking to the windows that open onto Piazza della Signoria, establishing a contact between the Gucci Garden transit spaces and the teeming space of the square. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper
On the occasion of Pitti Uomo 96, the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery presents ROMANZO BREVE DI MODA MASCHILE – A SHORT NOVEL ON MEN’S FASHION, an exhibit showcasing thirty years of menswear from 1989 to the present as seen through the eyes of Pitti Uomo. Passing through the halls of the Palazzo Pitti Museo della Moda e del Costume one by one, Olivier Saillard will recount the history and evolution of menswear, the intersection of Made in Italy with guest designers, and the fashion talents from the international contemporary scene together with the experiences of leading menswear entrepreneurs. The project is dedicated to the memory of Marco Rivetti, President of Pitti Immagine from 1987 to 1995. photographs by Oliver Maxwell Kupper
Avant-garde fashion designer and artist Valerj Pobega presented her “Kabuki in Berlin” -Fall/Winter 2019 collection with a site-specific performance in collaboration with dancers, acrobats and a music performance by Lawrence Rothman. Dressed in the designer’s hand-painted silk creations from “Kabuki in Berlin” her collection was inspired by the hybrid identities and androgynous stylings as seen in the Liza Minnelli’s turn as Sally Bowles in Cabaret, and the epicene performances of Lindsey Kemp and David Bowie in their 1970 mimed numbers which had hints of Kabuki theatre. photographs by Mekael Dawson
Stylist: James Valeri
Model: Mariam Eya (Supreme)
Casting: Alexandra Sandberg
Make Up: Karin Westerlund
Hair: Franco Argento
Stylist Assistant: Stacy Guetta
Photo Assistant: Talo Buccellati
Executive Producer: Benoit Dreyfus
On Set Production: Fabien Jallot and Pierre Goldberg
A lithe group of dancers, acrobats and contortionists graced the stage for the high-voltage presentation of Yazbukey Fitness Club – surrealist designer, Yazbukey’s full-throttle spring/summer 2019 collection. Her latest works inspired by the current obsessions with fit culture, fitspo, and the like are a welcome alternative to the dominating athleisure forces as of late. photographs by Flo Kohl
Miu Miu Type is a capsule collection featuring poplin shirts, cotton hoodies and track pants that will be patched with one, two or three letters from the Miu Miu alphabet. A female face or body interlaced with a letterform coming together to create an alphabet of gestures created in collaboration with Miuccia Prada by M/M Paris for the Fall 2018 Collection.
In Rachel Comey's daring new pre-spring collection vivid colors, along with delicate, varying textures and proportions abound as she responds to the current moment. A moment emboldened by an undercurrent of resistance and irreverence towards dominant structures long overdue for upheaval. Setting the stage of her runway show at the old Bullocks Wilshire department store where Helen Gurley Brown used to be a secretary and Angela Lansbury was a salesclerk, she takes inspiration from the space by embellishing materials and decorating the silhouettes themselves - layering tulle belts over zebra denim or colorblocked wool trousers. Hand cut and dyed flowers dangle from the ear, sit at the neck or frame the face. A zebra jacquard is used for volume on top and to finish the look in a purposeful wedge sandal. In the spirit of Katherine Hepburn who used to shop here for shoes in the men's department, she has proposed new tuxedos and other alternative ideas for event dressing. Fringe and rhinestone decorate the legs and feathers are used in one gesture at the neck or from the ear, while in other moments the body is stripes.
