Balenciaga’s Spring 22 presentation considers our shifting senses of reality through the lens of technology. We see our world through a filter—perfected, polished, conformed, photoshopped. We no longer decipher between unedited and altered, genuine and counterfeit, tangible and conceptual, fact and fiction, fake and deepfake. Technology creates alternate realities and identities, a world of digital clones.
To illustrate this concept, every look in the Spring 22 collection is seen on Eliza Douglas, an artist who has either opened or closed every show and appeared in most campaigns for the past several years. In a video directed by Quentin Deronzier, Eliza appears as a series of digital clones, some of which are deepfakes, or models with Eliza’s photogrammetry-captured and CG-scanned face digitally grafted on.
Some looks are styled to illustrate artificial manipulation using props, like chainmail headpieces in silver, gold, chrome, and rusted metal. The models march down a minimalist runway to a sci-fi-inspired soundtrack composed by BFRND and an AI voiceover reciting the lyrics of “La Vie En Rose.” The video’s post-production processes include planar tracking, rotoscoping, machine learning, and 3D modeling, implemented in order to achieve a hyper-realistic effect.
ANEMONES: Alexander McQueen's Fall Winter 21 Womenswear Collection
photographs by Paolo Roversi
“It feels like now is a time for healing, for breathing new life, for exploring echoes from the past to enrich our future. More than ever, a sense of humanity, of the team working together with a single aim – to make something beautiful, something meaningful – feels both precious and important. We looked at water, for its healing properties, and at anemones. Anemones are the most ephemeral flowers, here made permanent in cloth. The women wearing the anemone dresses almost become like flowers, like their embodiment, their character – but amplified, grounded, radiant and strong.”
Sarah Burton, Creative Director.
The Parapsychic Sculptor: Read Our Interview Of Corin Johnson →
Artist Corin Johnson has spent over thirty years traversing the art world with his exceptional stonemasonry and wood carving craftsmanship. Corin has collaborated with some of the world's most renowned visual artists including Paul Noble, as well as focusing on his own practice (which includes drawing, modeling, and unique stone, marble, and wood carvings), the work is varied with a unique and colorful story behind each piece. Recently, he has found himself locked down in his studio with the musically-acclaimed Nick Cave. They met in the ‘90s when the musician reached out having seen a bust of himself created by Johnson; a commission by a Cave fanatic. During lockdown, the duo have formed a creative bond and partnership. Read more.
Read Our Interview Of Artist Jordan Eagles Who Is Battling Blood Inequality →
Click here to read the interview.
Honoring The Murkiness: Read Our Interview Of Estefania Puerta & Abbey Meaker On Curating The Ephemeral →
Brian Raymond
Tree Hollow Composition, 2021
Maple tree hollow strung with harp strings, processed thru OP1, eh95000, and Sponge Fork
Run time: 10:00
Is it in our nature to make art? Is art inherently ephemeral? Is there a boundary between art and nature? How can we look to nature as a blueprint for the art that we make? These are all questions that come up as I consider Land Chapters, the inaugural exhibition by Artist Field, a platform for projects that respond to and engage with natural environments. Curated by Estefania Puerta and Abbey Meaker, this exploration of the boundary between nature and self is a deep dive into the works of 16 artists split into three chapters. The first chapter is comprised of installation works that can be found deep in the woods of Richmond, Vermont on the Beaver Pond Hill Property. The second chapter comes in the form of a tape with recordings from six different artists. And the third chapter is a print publication with text from seven additional artists. All together, these works serve as an attempt to embrace all of the hard-to-pinpoint expressions of art within nature that so often fall under the towering shadow of negated space left by the Land Art movement. Read more.
Love Letter to L.A.: New Works By Beverly Fishman @ GAVLAK Gallery In Los Angeles
Love Letter to L.A. is GAVLAK gallery’s first solo presentation of new work by Beverly Fishman. The exhibition’s declaration of affection signals a pivot to the personal in Fishman’s new body of work, for which she has developed a distinctive color palette for objects that occupy a liminal position between two and three dimensions, subtly acknowledging a debt to styles with California roots, including the Light and Space and Finish Fetish movements. The enticing and deceptive optical effects the new works produce also expand upon Fishman’s long-standing investigations of how physical and mental states with no fixed visual forms of their own—namely, pain and wellness—are articulated in the marketing of pharmaceutical conglomerates to an increasingly medicated general public.
Love Letter to L.A. will be on view through June 5 at GAVLAK Los Angeles.
From the Same Cloth: An Exploration Of Body Image & Identity In Menswear
photographs by Valerio Nico
styling by Enrico Caputo
set design by Alberto Simoni
f/x and grooming by Greta Giannone
styling assisted by Alessandra Lato
jacket and pants: antimasturbasion
shoes: Marsèll
bra: Maria Do Carmo
set design: Alberto Simoni
full look: Maria Do Carmo
full look:
Maria Do Carmo
jacket and pants: Rin Choe
knee pad: Maria Do Carmo
shoes: Marsèll
dress: Maria Do Carmo
jacket and pants: antimasturbasion
shoes: Marsèll
jacket: Rin Choe
bra: Maria Do Carmo
coat: Thomas Spooner
onesie: antimasturbasion
Follow the team on Instagram:
Photography Valerio Nico
Styling Enrico Caputo
Set design Alberto Simoni
Special F/X Greta Giannone
Styling Assistant Alessandra Lato
Chair by Finemateria
Global Fax Festival: A New Performance Film By David Hammons In Collaboration With Monday Evening Concerts
‘Global Fax Festival’ a new performance by David Hammons dedicated to Butch Morris in collaboration with Monday Evening Concerts and pianist Myra Melford
Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles, 10 May 2021
Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth
Photo: Elon Schoenholz Photography © 2021
Hauser & Wirth’s digital art magazine Ursula presents ‘Global Fax Festival’ – a new performance film by David Hammons dedicated to composer/conductor Lawrence D. ‘Butch’ Morris and created in collaboration with Los Angeles’ venerated Monday Evening Concerts and virtuoso pianist Myra Melford.
The film documents Hammons’ first-ever restaging of his noted 2000 project ‘Global Fax Festival’ here conducted in the gallery’s outdoor courtyard in early May 2021. After more than a year of isolation during the pandemic, Hammons conceived this event as a gesture toward the reawakening of Los Angeles, set within the space that two years ago hosted the largest survey of his work ever organized.
The new ‘Global Fax Festival’ performance film features a solo improvisational piano performance by Myra Melford. A former Butch Morris collaborator, Melford plays in dialogue with projected footage of Morris, who passed away in 2013, performing Conductions®, his trademarked technique that merges conducting and improvisation.
Space Talk: Read Our Interview Of Retrofuturist Designer Candice Molayem On The Eve Of Her New Collection Release For Animal Crackers →
A serendipitous trip through Europe was the inevitable catalyst for Candice Molayem to begin her ascent into design with her evergreen clothing line, Animal Crackers. Since its conception in the July of 2020 with the intention of inspiring empowerment for her audience through wearable art, Molayem has been creating her circum-vitae of ethically-crafted garments full of futurist visions that harken eras past, sharp tailoring, and avant-garde silhouettes. Molayem transcends the norms of the traditional fashion calendar and the constant urge for the new, emphasizing on season-less collections that are made to endure and be worn year-round. Read more.
A Visit To The Miles C. Bates “Wave House” In Palm Desert
With it’s patented curving roof that mimics the peaks of the surrounding San Jacinto Mountains, the iconic Miles C. Bates “Wave House” has been brilliantly and expertly restored by Los Angeles-based Stayner Architects and is now available to book for overnight stays. Every inch of the home in its original incarnation—before a devastating series of remodels—has been reconsidered with exacting precision, save for a few minor modern amenities that enhance the home’s livability and that continue the architect’s vision for domestic desert bliss. Built for an archetypal, midcentury American playboy and sculptor, Miles C. Bates in 1955 by architect and inventor Walter S. White—a former apprentice of Rudolf Schindler—the house exudes the charm of high, but moderate living and square footage devoted to only the essentials; a less-is-more ethos that gives midcentury architecture its understated grandeur. But, while the physical footprint might be minimal, the house feels anything but cramped. The maximization and utilization of space makes the Wave House feel larger than life, a type of floor planning that belongs to only the greatest architects. Large sliding steel-framed glass doors and clerestory windows create a seamless transition from the great indoors to the great outdoors. The roller coaster roof undulates, giving the entire house a kind of oneness that is alluring and near mystical. With original terrazzo floors and ash wood panels, the house is a masterpiece of materiality and sensuous glamour; even the automated curtains have a kind of burlesque eroticism. A small cactus enclosure feels like a private peep show for thirsty and thorny flora. At night, a soaking tub beckons just steps from the bedroom. As architect and engineer Marcus Vitruvius opined in his treatise for Roman architecture, that in order for buildings to have the perfect proportions, they must have three attributes: firmitas, utilitas and venustas (strength, utility and beauty). The Wave House has all three in spades. Click here to book your stay.
Carhartt WIP Releases Spring '21 Campaign In Collaboration With Clay Arlington
For its Spring 2021 campaign, Carhartt WIP has worked with artist and designer Clay Arlington, creating a series of images that reference the artist’s past body of work, as well as the brand’s own cultural rooting. Fire extinguishers, floral motifs, and basketballs — in this case, one created by Spalding for Carhartt WIP S/S21 collection — all draw from Arlington’s signature aesthetic, and are combined with text-based works that offer a knowing interpretation of the brand’s DNA.
To mark the campaign, Carhartt WIP has released two t-shirts featuring these works combined with other text-based components. Each t-shirt will also come with a limited edition posterzine.
One image features artist and model Ivy Johnson, her back turned to the camera while wearing a white hoodie, with the words “it’s just work” scrawled on tape across the bottom.
Friday Playlist: Talk Radio
California Dreamin': Read Our Interview Of Cole Sternberg On The Free Republic Of California →
Michael Slenske interviews Cole Sternberg on making the dream of the Free Republic of California a reality.
Virtually Cool: Otis College Annual Fashion Show Features Designs Inspired By The Work Of Noah Davis
This Saturday, May 8, Otis College will be holding their annual fashion show for the classes of 2020 and 2021, broadcasting digitally in lieu of an in-person event. In support of their first-generation population, which comprises roughly 30% of the student body, the public will be invited at no cost for the first time and encouraged to contribute financially during the program. These students worked under the mentorship of industry heavyweights like Ruth Carter, David Meister, Jonathan Simkhai and B. Akerlund in addition to many other prominent costume and fashion designers who work with Universal, Vince and ALC.
Virtually Cool also features a collaboration with designers Arthur Thammavong and Deborah Sabet from Vince, who tasked students to make a line of clothing based off of the late American artist Noah Davis' paintings.
RSVP now to attend.
Repeat: Sculptures By Janet Levy, Choreography By Diane Gemsch @ SWB Experimenthaus In Zurich
As we navigate our lives in these times of a pandemic, the question about home and living becomes even more pronounced. Janet Levy questions what is home and what is the significance of home, collecting objects from her surroundings to create a site-specific sculptural installation. In kind, Diane Gemsch creates an emotional response by physically bringing this action to movement while engaging with the house and sculpture installation.
Repeat is on view by appointment through May @ SWB Experimenthaus Neubühl, Westbühlstrasse 59, 8038 Zurich-Wollishofen. photographs by Rudolf Moser
Watch BAGGAGE: A Dance Film By Choreographer Jay Carlon @ Los Angeles' Historic Union Station
BAGGAGE is a theatrical dance work for film by acclaimed dancer and choreographer Jay Carlon with a live-score and sound design by musician Alex Wand. Developed on site in Union Station’s historic Ticketing Hall during a two-week residency by Carlon and Wand—the work celebrates origin stories and embodies the many histories of arrivals and departures at the station and in our lives. It is a personal family narrative of migration told in three chapters unpacked through music, dance, and memory inside the landmark historic space that has served as a gateway to the many individual and collective California arrival stories over the past eight decades.
Opening with the Phillipine proverb “A person who does not remember where they came from will never reach their destination” in Tagalog to provoke the question “How did you get here?”, Carlon channels the stories of the space through his personal family story. The film concludes with an emotional and physical release as Carlon lets go of family traumas handed down from previous generations.
[AUTRE ARCHIVE] Read Oliver Kupper's Essay On Los Angeles' Iconic Westin Bonaventure From Our Winter 2018 Issue →
Click here to read.
Ben Sakoguchi's Chinatown @ Bel Ami In Los Angeles
Ben Sakoguchi’s combinations of commercial signage, history painting, and Pop Art comment on the American Dream and its fraught entanglement with xenophobia and racism. With acrylic paint on canvas, Sakoguchi reassembles imagery from film posters, newspapers, comics, and internet searches to reveal subtexts of local discrimination, mass media exploitation, and state-sanctioned violence. A Japanese American who spent years of his childhood living in an internment camp during World War II, Sakoguchi comments on a century and a half of prejudice against diasporic Asians. Contending with overlapping histories that contribute to ideas of Asian American identity, Sakoguchi creates an ironic primer on capitalism’s treachery with an audacity that challenges and uplifts.
A publication with essays by Eli Diner (Critic, Curator, and Executive Editor of Cultured magazine), Steven Wong (Curator and the Director of the Vincent Price Art Museum, Monterey Park, CA), and Ana Iwataki (Writer, Curator, and PhD student in Comparative Studies in Literature and Culture, University of Southern California, Los Angeles) will be released in PDF and printed form during the course of this exhibition.
Chinatown is on view through April 24 @ Bel Ami 709 N Hill St. #105, Los Angeles
Ben Sakoguchi
Chinatown, 2014
Acrylic on canvas, wooden frames (1 of 15 panels) 53 x 91 in (134.6 x 231.1 cm)
Watch CELINE PARADE: The Women’s Winter 21 Collection
“Son regard est pareil au regard des statues.”
Paul Verlaine
Mon Rêve Familier“Ma jeunesse ne fut qu’un ténébreux orage, traversé çà et là par de brillants soleils.”
Charles Baudelaire
l’Ennemie
“J’ai seul la clef de cette parade sauvage.”
Arthur Rimbaud"
Parade
CELINE
PARADE
Jardins d’André le Nôtre
Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte
Filmed in March 2021
Directed and styled by HEDISLIMANE
Original soundtrack for Celine
”Un Daydream” performed by REGINA_DEMINA
Written and produced by Regina Demina & Charles Caste"
Featuring harp arrangements by Leonie Favre-Tissot
Commissioned and co-produced by Hedi Slimane
Hair Stylist
Esther Langham
Makeup
Christelle Cocquet
Randolpho Lamonier Presents My Kind Of Dirty @ Fort Gansevoort
My Kind Of Dirty is Brazilian artist Randolpho Lamonier’s first exhibition with Fort Gansevoort. This online presentation brings together recent textile works in which Lamonier responds to his upbringing in Contagem, an industrial city in southeastern Brazil, drawing upon observations of hardship and inequality to create powerful expressions in vivid colors, word combinations, and raw images. The artist locates his inspiration in an environment where joy grows proportionally to misfortune and likens his work to diaristic entries. Rendered in deceptively humble handwork and fabrics, the scintillating psychedelic landscapes on view in My Kind Of Dirty celebrate “the exuberance of life that resists against the necropolitical agenda guided by the current Brazilian government,” the artist has said. In this way, Lamonier’s approach to representation acts as personal revolution, whereby the aura of possibility defines his blueprint for the future.
My Kind Of Dirty is available for online viewing through May 15