Michaela Stark Presents "The Panty Show" in Collaboration with Charlotte Rutherford @ Fondazione Sozzani In Milan

 
 

Michaela Stark’s The Panty Show, hosted by Carla and Sara Sozzani, is a hyper feminine and playful, three-part artistic expression that comprises an exhibition, performance, and presentation of her panty collection.

Michaela’s process and practice is confessional and comes from her perspective that she shares with her generation. The Panty Show combines several aspects of her body of work. The show narrates the path she has taken from her early years experimenting with draping on her own body alone in her Paris apartment to how she gained liberation through fashion.

The conceptualization of Panty began as a heavily emotional journey. When her personal work and experimentation with reshaping her body began to get her noticed, this often led to appropriation of her body and her intimacy when collaborating with other artists.  

Artists Hans Baumer and John Kacere are the backdrop for the exhibition and performance at The Panty Show. Two male artists who overtly took the female form and its autonomy projecting their own ideas unto it. Stark reverses these outdated attitudes by reclaiming her voice as a female artist and by being the protagonist in her work. 

The set for the performance recreates her atelier, a dusty pink chaotic tableau vivant of ribbons and dried flowers. The audience and viewers are invited to join and share her experience. In the set, Michaela dresses her model, Yasmin El Yassini, who acts as her human doll. She dresses Yasmin in her body morphing corsetry, transforming her body completely, and then stages her almost lifeless body for photographs. 

For her second collaboration with Charlotte Rutherford, Stark remarks on the photographer’s ability to see the fantasy in everyone who steps in front of her camera and capture their unique energy as well as to foster an environment where everyone can act with agency over their body’s representation.

The final act of The Panty show showcases a series of lingerie-esque garments. Stark created ten sculptured dolls made out of tulle, using couture corsetry techniques and crinoline to give structure.

Her notebooks documenting her process are also on display, giving insight to her practice.

The Panty Show is on view through February 25 @ Fondazione Sozzani Vis Tazzoli 3, Milan

 
 

Intimacy, Intensity and Sensuality Are Magnified in Zoë Ghertner's Held in the Palm @ Zodiac Pictures in Los Angeles

Installation view courtesy of the artist and Zodiac Pictures.

Zoë Ghertner’s Held in the Palm dutifully maintains a level of intensity with all of her subjects, exploring and releasing their associative experiential qualities within the still image. With such a meticulous focus, rippling patterns or grainy textures become revealed in places where these qualities might otherwise go overlooked. Using color, texture, and light, Ghertner emphasizes the formal properties of her medium and exploits its immediacy. In some photographs, the artist toys with her compositions to soften and distort the final image—imparting a hazy, gooey, or warming sensation upon the viewer of the finished work. In these final photographs, time is ultimately suspended as each subject becomes an abstraction. Read more.

Held in the Palm is on view through March 23 @ Zodiac Pictures, 145 Bay Street #9 Santa Monica, CA

 
 

Sparkle in the Vastness and Abstract Visuals of Tia-Thuy Nguyen @ Almine Rech Paris

 
 

Tia-Thuy Nguyen’s first show with Almine Rech presents a suite of more than twenty multi-media paintings from the artist’s ongoing series “I, my, me, cloud” (2018–). Impressed at an early age by her father’s experience as a Vietnamese Air Force pilot during the war with the United States (1954–1975), the artist has developed a deeply nuanced appreciation of clouds—what they can reveal and resemble, but also what they might hide. Enchanted by her father’s majestic descriptions of flying through clouds in his plane, Tia Thuy Nguyen was also frightened by his cautionary tales of clouds providing cover for enemy planes. Capturing this dichotomy, Tia's paintings evoke a wide range of moods—from joy and hope, to gloominess and anxiety. Embellished with beads and embroidery, the glittery, shimmery works reflect the complexity, mystery and mutability of Tia's chosen subject matter. Representing an homage to her father—who passed away in 2022, and whose presence the artist has since experienced as a light radiating from inside herself—Tia’s recent works evoke historical associations of light and spirituality, from sun streaming through stained-glass windows in a cathedral to Mark Rothko’s radiant abstractions.

 

Sparkle in the Vastness is on view through February 24th @ Almine Rech 64 rue de Turenne 75003 Paris FR,

[REVIEW] Nurturing Nature in Lost Wild: Art on the Edge of the Anthropocene @ Whitney Modern in Los Gatos

text by Chimera Mohammadi

How do we nurture the force that created us? This seemingly paradoxical question defines Lost Wild, the group show on view at the Whitney Modern in Los Gatos. The show grapples with various such paradoxes tethered to our relationship with nature: Keith Petersen’s breathtaking photography of chemical reactions claims organic aesthetics through inorganic means, and Karen Olsen-Dunn’s otherwise conventional landscapes glitch and freeze off the canvas and out of the realm of recognition. Dean Bensen and Demetra Theofanous’s glass leaves and bird nests solidify typically flexible structures into embodied fragility, reminiscent of the environmental precariousness that defines our current global epoch. After luxuriating in these contradictory states, the show sets about to address that core question of nurturing, calling in motifs of youth, restoration, and lushness. Melissa Mohammadi’s sprawling botanical studies and tunnel books house disparate plants, bound together by unlikely familial forces and working together toward healing. Tamera Avery’s tenderly rendered masked subjects are at once children and revolutionaries, often modeled after her own son. Marie Cameron’s paintings cope with climate change through a fantastical fairy tale lens, while Sheila Metcalf Tobin’s burst out of the confines of the canvas in radiant, sun-dappled celebrations of natural nostalgia.

Lost Wild is on view through March 30th at Whitney Modern, 2nd Floor of 24 N Santa Cruz Ave 2nd floor, Los Gatos, CA 95030.

The Incarnation of Desire is Brought to You by A Tender Limb @ Reisig and Taylor Contemporary in Los Angeles

 

Image courtesy of Reisig and Taylor Contemporary.

 

Reisig and Taylor Contemporary is presenting A Tender Limb, a group exhibition of works by Los Angeles-based artists Ibuki Kuramochi, Marley White, and Allison Arkush. The exhibition includes prints and a sculptural video installation by Kuramochi; mixed-technique and metal sculptures by White; and, mixed-media and ceramic pieces by Arkush.

Recontextualizing ‘everyday' interactions with items, furnitures, images, screens, trinkets, skins, figments, tangles, tools, morsels and other abeyant entities that congeal or contract as soon as someone looks (away), the exhibition asks how bodies make-room for objects through desire and affection—through taste. But it also asks how conditioned desires, affections, and tastes for objects make-room for (specific types of) bodies.

A Tender Limb is on view through February 24 @ Reisig and Taylor Contemporary, 2680 South La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90034

 
 

Time is Stretched Through Muted Tones in Happy Phantom @ Lowell Ryan Projects in Los Angeles

 

Erin Trefry, Causeway across the sea, 2024. Images by Charles White at JWPictures.com, courtesy of the artist and Lowell Ryan Projects.

 

Lowell Ryan Projects presents Happy Phantom, an exhibition by Los Angeles-based artist Erin Trefry. Comprised of a series of eleven figurative paintings in muted tones, Trefry continues her exploration of sentiment, time, and figuration particularly in relation to familial narratives and relationships.

In this exhibition, Trefry presents her great-grandmother’s paintings, which were originally created in the late 19th century, and depict figurative scenes of romantic settings, exotic locales, and fantastical narratives. These works were passed down through the generations eventually landing in Trefry’s possession. In Happy Phantom Trefry subverts the imagery of her late relative, the paintings are presented stretched in reverse so that the viewer is only able to see the backside of the works where the paint has bled through the fabric. Behind the paintings, a layer of muslin conceals the surfaces of the original paintings.

Happy Phantom is on view through March 2 @ Lowell Ryan Projects, 4619 W Washington Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90016

Feel the Out-of-Body in Disembodied @ Nicodim in Los Angeles

Installation view of DISEMBODIED. Image courtesy of Nicodim.

Isabelle Albuquerque / Liang Fu / Shana Hoehn / Rae Klein / Agnieszka Nienartowicz / James Owens / Daniel Pitín / Qian Qian / Nicola Samorì

Curated by Ben Lee Ritchie Handler

DISEMBODIED builds and continues conversations around the violence, ecstasy, and epiphany within out-out-body experiences as-seen from the perspective of those on the ground—the leaps of faith we take to believe those who say their souls depart while their bodies remain. The works in the exhibition cover a wide swath of allegorical and tangible disembodied states, including the spiritual, the telegraphic, the psychedelic, the dissociative-induced, artificial intelligences, and alien encounters.

DISEMBODIED is on view through February 17 @ Nicodim, 1700 S Santa Fe Avenue, #160, Los Angeles, CA 90021

[REVIEW] Queer Routes to Restoration in The Embodied Press @ Kala Art Gallery in Berkeley

text by Chimera Mohammadi

“I lingered in front of the bar and felt eyes search my face.” As the words flit across an uncanny array of printed eyes in Malic Amalya’s short film “Flyhole,” Amalya confines in language the current that unites the work in The Embodied Press: Queer Abstraction and the Artist’s book, a touring exhibition curated by Anthea Black which has just finished its Berkeley stop. The show consists of a glorious collection of Queer aesthetics that question whether they want to be seen and ultimately insist upon it, considering the tenuous relationship between Queerness and observation without compromising the Queer right to be seen. The space where Queerness and spectacle overlap has often held violence: The Embodied Press is a reclamation of that space, thrusting the historic traumas of the Queer community into the spotlight while soothing the resulting discomfort with self-owned Queer spectacle. Lyman Piersma’s delicate, heartrending recordings of life during the AIDS epidemic and Lukaza Branfman-Verissimo’s brutally raw love notes and protest poems imbue the space with a revolution-inspiring pathos. Kate Laster’s kaleidoscopic collages suspend themselves in space like bursts of visual jazz, and radiant books of wordless color gradients by Nicholas Shick embody the transcendent euphoria of gender transition. Married couple Miller and Shellabarger’s hazy fields of pastel erotica pepper the space like escape hatches, doors into a welcoming party, while their massive paper dolls cordon off corners for “Flyhole” and Nadine Baritueau’s “Au Revoir” to quietly question the paranoia of being seen and the appeal of disappearance. 

The Embodied Press is on view through February 9th, 2024, at Kala Art Gallery at 2990 San Pablo Ave, Berkeley, CA 94702.

Non-Specific Objects Carves Niches for Difference from Universality @ Capitain Petzel in Berlin

The title of Non-Specific Objects acts as a counterpoint to the ideas expressed in Donald Judd’s canonical 1964 essay Specific Objects. Seeing as Judd characterized specific objects as separate from either sculpture or painting, they were precisely themselves, emphasizing the very materiality of a specific object that lacked expressive or symbolic content, especially to embodied subjectivity. This universal space, which aimed to be all-encompassing, did not make room for gender, racial, and sexual difference. The artists in this exhibition work against the hegemonic universal, creating space for difference in their works by means of abstraction, referencing bodies both literally and metaphorically.

The selection of works collectively embodies the contemporary lived experience of those who occupy spaces outside the normative. While they often do not overtly mirror the human form, the works represent humanity through a lens of abstraction and resistance, inviting viewers to confront themselves and experience bodily otherness. From alienation and embarrassment to intimacy and desire, the artists offer both the possibility of self-reflection and shared moments of humor.

In focus is the abstracted body – be it the intimate nature, materiality, and particularities of the individual human body, the collective body that is built on shared historic experience, the extended and amplified body in an age of relentless augmentation, or the body that eschews realistic painterly modes of representation, opting for formally abstract or heavily stylized, sometimes nostalgic renditions of humanity. The diverse set of artistic practices does not adhere to strict principles of representation, but continually references the human, sometimes clearly and often obliquely. It highlights objects that refuse human form but relate to the human by embracing abstraction.

Non-Specific Objects is on view through February 24th at Capitain Petzel, Karl-Marx-Allee 45, 10178 Berlin.

Read Bliss Foster's Notes on Spring 2024 Haute Couture Week in Paris


text by Bliss Foster

1. When we look at designers that are clearly a once-in-a-lifetime talent, we recognize them because they do far more than just make outstanding work — the difference between them and any other hardworking and apt fashion designer is that they have the confidence to go so far against the grain and know that they will be rewarded for it. And in John Galliano’s case this season, he leaned so far into his universe and embraced ideas whose execution would horrify most. But by marching to the beat of his own drum and embracing pubic wigs, John Galliano has enabled Maison Margiela to break through to the most mainstream attention through his portrayal of the most seedy and debaucherous Paris. The sheerest garments appeared muddied and tattered, distorting our perception of the body in a manner no different than the corsets in this show that were wrenched tight on the models. It takes a lot of work to make a gross bar the setting of something beautiful, but Galliano’s vision is so effective that he redeems this uniquely Parisian genre of hedonism: taking us from literal tatters to haute couture. It’s no surprise that the glass skin makeup, keyed by the legendary Pat McGrath, has managed to sell out every single product whose effect on the skin would even approximate what she created for the show. 

2. Simone Rocha’s stab at Jean Paul Gaultier couture was a large event for celebrities, which is a largely unexpected audience for the cult following of the coquette brand. But the standard JPG audience seemed thrilled - Simone’s clothing has that effect on people. Even if you’re not the kind of person that is inherently attracted to the overtly feminine, in the hands of Simone Rocha, bows become tears and frilly dresses can become a part of showcasing your cheerless attitude. Making exuberant clothing for people who can never be as spirited as their outfit implies is beautifully complex. The JPG cone bra is given a lift, turning into spiky rose thorns. Jean Paul’s tattoo exploration from Spring 1994 is reinterpreted into a sheer, organza pannier dress, trimmed with snakes, thorny branches, and roses. It’s not Rocha’s work without jewels and crystals, which created the structure of many tulle looks, but were notably present as eyeshadow and eyebrow adornment on the faces of many models. Likewise, it’s not a JPG show without the Marinière, whose stripes this season were piped with twisting bows made of navy satin ribbon. One of my favorite details were the sock-bun earrings, wrapped in hair. 

3. A poem accompanied Rahul Mishra’s couture show this season and, put succinctly, it was about appreciating the small things in life. The whole collection centered around this theme, further emphasized by the beautiful cards on the showgoers’ seats that listed the near extinction of many species of moth and butterfly. Couture has a radically different pace than the ready-to-wear calendar, and part of that includes a strange slowing down. When you have a chance to slow down, you can appreciate the incredibly intricate details that make Rahul Mishra’s haute couture such a compelling endeavor, while also digesting his discussion on biodiversity and the preservation of nature. The sheer circular shields carried by the models appear to invite us to look through the lens of a microscope and see the details of a dragonfly, a hive of bees, and the intricate patterns of a close-up honeycomb whose inspiration is spread across the entire collection. Honeycomb became crystal grids which were found on the most exciting looks in the collection.

4. The couture of Viktor and Rolf’s only raison d’etre is to bother purists who clutch their pearls about the beauty, grace, and exactitude of couture, and that is meant in the absolute best way possible. What makes V&R so special is their ability to communicate exactly what couture stands for in their luxurious, precise work, while thematically bucking every haute couture convention. The distinctive sound of scissors was turned into a walkable beat, while four looks traced the evolution of a gradual destruction and reconstruction via the very scissors the audience could hear loudly snapping away. Deconstruction itself is not easy to do well, thousands of designers try and fail at creating compelling designs through the use of deconstruction. Turning deconstruction into a sliding scale however is an entirely different goal. The in-between looks seem to capture the process of how they were created surprisingly well, but are also decorated with the motif of child-like scissor destruction, covered in the most lovely and professionally finished jagged holes.

5. Volume looks effortless when Gaurav Gupta does it, delicately swirling about the wearer, but this was a less voluminous show than usual for the brand. This season’s showing included evening jackets, trench coats and bronze bustiers, grounding this collection in a wearability that is not often seen in couture presentations. Gaurav’s devotees were dressed to the nines in his work, of course. It’s rare to see couture look so effortless and stunning on folks who aren’t walking a runway.

6. Miss Sohee’s couture radically modernizes the public’s expectation of what couture can look like. Yet, Sohee Park’s vision seems rooted in the most antiquated and vintage inspirations. Her collection was inspired by the old South Korean antiques she seems to adore, but it seems more than just inspiration. Each look appears to personify a particular and individual antique, and in this way, each look feels like a loveable, household object from Beauty and the Beast after they come to life. The cohesion in this collection is spectacularly strong while maintaining a large variety between the looks, almost as if the looks themselves are a perfectly curated shelf of objects. If Cristobal was alive today, it’s possible that some shapes in this collection would stir up some envy, most notably in the chartreuse-colored lamé gown.

7. Robert Wun’s fantasy horror show is sharp in all the right places. It’s a literal sharpness in the busts, peplums and some shoulders of these horror storybook characters. But more impressively, the execution of this collection left no detail unattended to, nothing was out of place. It’s not often you see such precision in just runway looks - usually that precision is much more expected, really demanded, in product. But being so up close to Robert Wun’s work reinforced a professionalism and an attention to detail that has left a lot to be desired from other couturiers. Every element was immovable and complete, a standard to only ever expect from the major luxury houses, and a standard that is often unfair to place onto emerging designers. But Robert Wun has been in business for 10 years, and he has experienced career highlights that emerging designers could only dream of. 

Focus on Sanity with Zofia Pałucha @ Galerie Pact

Zofia Pałucha works mainly with ”found footage” and creates sketches for the paintings
on a smartphone, using apps to transform selected photos. Like Free Jazz, the stream-of-consciousness-based work in contemporary figurative painting allows the artist to surrender to the painterly gesture and action of individual images. She combines the final artworks with evocative titles derived from philosophical essays, art history or quotes from movies and audiobooks.
Since the outbreak of the pandemic, the ever-changing landscape of contemporary crises has meant that podcasts about the most important political, social, and cultural events in the world always accompany Zofia Pałucha as she works and are an integral part of her creative process. One can trace the roots of the artist’s paintings to the early political works of Gerhard Richter, Marlene Dumas, or Luc Tuymans. Pałucha’s paintings, though deeply involved in politics and morality, are full of elusive meanings. They attempt to reflect the condition of modern man, emphasizing the fragility of the individual not only in the real world but in the virtual space too. Through the prism of sensuality and sexuality, filtered through personal experiences, the artist’s works delve into the problems in the modern world without providing a clear answer. Like the reality around us, her painting is multi-layered and subject to change. Her work is a manifesto, an expressive artistic statement about the here and now and perhaps ahead.
Focus on Sanity is on view through January 27, 2024, @ Galerie Pact, 70 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris

Read Bliss Foster's Notes on Paris Fashion Week Men's Fall 2024

 

Loewe photograph by Daniele Oberrauch / gorunway.com

 

Loewe continues to be a dominant force in Paris. Even when we can’t possibly fathom that the winning streak has lasted this long, Jonathan Anderson’s consistency remains a staple of the week. Though, this should not be mistaken for stagnation. Runway pieces were merged with their nearby garments, most notably: socks that grew into pants and a waistband with a kangaroo pocket as a roof. The show itself is not enough to understand how exciting these clothes are — both the shearlings and the leather could be described as buttery, the patterns remain radically inventive, and the volume of beading in this collection is truly something to behold. 

 

Kartik Research photograph by Vivek Vadoliya

 

This season was the season of parents. Designer Kartik Kumra presented his brand’s first collection in Paris in the enthusiastic presence of his parents. They proudly wore their favorite designs from his emerging label, Kartik Research — a label whose fabrics are famously created without the use of electricity and whose embellishments feature the skilled artisanship found in Kartik’s home country of India. At KidSuper, Colm Dillane’s parents can be seen as crucial members of the team, often credited by Colm for contributing to the presentations. This season, Mr. & Mrs. Dillane made room for other members of the tightly-packed front row by squeezing together. Colm’s father was ultimately squeezed off the bench and enjoyed the show seated in his wife’s lap, creating a quintessentially KidSuper moment: optimistic and motion-picture-like.

 

courtesy of Louis Vuitton

 

It is possible that Pharrell’s work is attempting to revive the American spirit in fashion, maybe even through the same romantic lens with which Ralph Lauren created an empire. But his Louis Vuitton attempts to mythologize the beauty of his home beyond the whitewashed notions that have dominated the idea of American-ness in the minds of those abroad. This season, the Dakota and Lakota tribes were foundational to the collection, both in their artistic contributions on clothing and bags, as well as their endorsement of Pharell’s Western Americana that introduced the rest of the world to the Native American and Black cowboys. Cowboys of color can be easily forgotten when the idea of the West is so aligned with Buffalo Bills and Butch Cassidys, but through Pharrell, I think Louis Vuitton is hoping to create a new and more inclusive empire.

photo by Luca Tombolini and Gaspar Ruiz Lindberg

photo by Christina Fragkou

photo by Luca Tombolini and Gaspar Ruiz Lindberg

This is the footwear segment of this article. Among any discussion of footwear in any recent season, you will find well-earned praise for the creations of Rushemy Botter & Lisi Herrebrugh. Historic standouts include a hybridized cleat and banker shoe stacked on top of each other, or a 3D printed Reebok sneaker inspired by murex shells. This season, Botter’s shoes move us back to hybridization; the result is 70% soccer cleat, but bred with a bouldering shoe to create a rounded heel. What’s exciting is that we’re finally getting some Botter concept shoes as product. It’s, of course, difficult to make a prototype into a sellable shoe. Just ask Rick Owens, who continued to tackle the “concept as product” dilemma in the most effective way of any working designer. With Rick, if your eyes see it on the runway, it will be sold as product. This promise becomes even more compelling when you consider the Rick Owens lamp helmets, personal fog machines and now, balloon shoes equipped with inflatable valve. These flotation shoes were a staple of the show, which took place in Rick’s Paris home with a scaled down audience. 

 

courtesy of Junya Watanabe

 

Pattern cutting is the primary contribution to the world for certain brands, Junya Watanabe immediately comes to mind. In this iteration of his absurdly complex patterns, the result is more visually subtle, yet some of the ideas executed in this show are so simple and brilliant that you wonder why it hasn’t been done before — notably a coat with sleeves takes the common gesture of wearing a coat as a cape, but doesn’t give you the option to use the sleeves at all. Outerwear fuses together top and bottom to create long coats. Despite how often the comparisons are drawn between the designers who used to be pattern cutters for Rei Kawakubo, I can’t help but think of how this idea would fit so well into Chitose Abe’s Sacai and her elaborate experimentation with hybridizing clothing. On the other hand, Sacai’s approach is much more detail oriented and uses more visual reference — a clear ode to pajamas becomes rugged outerwear at Sacai.

 

Dior photo by Brett Lloyd

 

Dior Men was a carousel this season, a literal carousel that spun the models around in a sort of lazy-susan (a mega-susan??) and then lifted the looks eight feet off the ground. The music was the “Dance of the Knights” from the ballet of Romeo and Juliet, a dance that features predominantly circular movements, so that seems to check out. Dior’s menswear offering centers around tailoring every season, and usually brings variety through styling details, with one noteworthy detail in particular. This season, that detail comes through women’s dress flats and mary-janes worn with colorful socks. Kim Jones continues to find bizarre deep-cut garments to include in unexpected ways: a belted safari jacket is a great example. 

 

Airei photo by Andrew Morales

 

Performance art and fashion have endured a rocky relationship — at times, performance art is a critical component of understanding a presentation, at other times, it is distracting at its absolute best. Thankfully, the emotionally intricate brand Airei reminded us this season that performance art is a deeply fitting cross section with conceptual fashion. Designer Drew Curry did not outsource the performance art — he meditated in an armchair for his presentation while attendees tried on the collection. By meditated, I mean he sat in an armchair for six hours staring at a video of his newborn son. Members of the press relations team at his showroom, Dover Street Market Paris, told me that he had originally intended to meditate for twelve hours but was limited in time by the venue he hosted the presentation in. But performance aside, this was undeniably Curry’s best collection since the inception of the brand. Materials at Airei have always been exciting and innovative, in the past he has used fish scraps from sushi restaurants for their leather and human hair mats as an insulating and absorbent textile. The yak wool coats this season feature one of the most beautiful and dimensional fabrics I have seen in my career. 

 

courtesy of Hermès

 

This was our first time attending Hermès — and it did not disappoint in the slightest. In fact, it was even better than I had ever anticipated. Ultra luxury houses have earned this reputation for being boring. Hermès bucks that assumption and presents a collection that appears minimal to the eye, yet features some of the most exciting pattern work I have seen this year. Details include cashmere linings that extend past the zipper, squishy deerskin coats, double-collared shirts, and a ponyhair sleeveless top that looked as good as it felt.

 

Winnie photo by Stanislas Motz-Neidhart

 

Winnie’s collection this season was a standout because its founder, Idris Balogun, is the most qualified newcomer to the Paris calendar. He cut his teeth on Saville Row and now brings that millimeter precision to the runway. This season, by focusing on ease, Balogun was able to deliver a consistent and confident drop-shoulder to many of his blazers and jackets. The casting and styling was exceptionally executed and authentic to the Beat Generation and ’50s inspiration that underpinned the show — a refreshing new source of inspiration for tailoring. 

Walter Van Bierendonck photo by Catwalk Pictures / Etienne Tordoir

Deceptive goofiness took everyone by surprise with Doublet and Walter Van Bierendonck; both brands that many folks often dismiss as lighthearted and silly. Walter delivered a poignant performance art piece more than a runway. Each of the models was given a speaker smaller than a golf ball and were told to walk slowly through a series of rooms reciting facts about themselves while a different song played from each model’s speaker. Walter’s ongoing anti-war theme feels more relevant with each passing season. Walter’s designs are not runway-only, it’s always wonderful to see a devoted customer proudly wearing the same piece in the wild. Doublet, the Japanese brand with the most playful shows in Paris, changed directions this season by delivering a parody of Balenciaga. Imitating Demna’s self-serious in-joke created a new move in fashion’s Irony Chess.

Wolfgang Voigt Births Rich Yet Minimalist Psychedelia with the Loop Principle @ Galerie Nagel Draxler in Berlin

In both his musical and pictorial work, Wolfgang Voigt predominantly adheres to strict conceptual principles, which he refines and diversifies consistently. Alongside his mostly sample-based, rather free-abstract to gestural musical and figurative language, it is primarily the “loop principle” that has always fascinated Voigt. The static or varied repetition of minimalistic structures creates certain patterns, grooves, and shapes. This way of thinking is shaped not least by the structure of computer-based music programs, permeating Voigt’s work in various ways.

Whether navigating the tension between 4/4th bass drum-based groove patterns and condensed visual sequences/loops, or reopening the loops and engaging in free-abstract deconstruction (re-enchantment/de-interpretation) – for Wolfgang Voigt, sampling and “the loop” represents a way of perceiving the world. Even when adhering to certain rules and concepts in selecting and processing his source material, he intentionally allows deviations to emerge, often locating what he is “looking for” not in the intended location but in its vicinity. In the virtuoso interplay between “man and machine” he is consistently focused on the simultaneity of strict conceptual minimalism and the hypnotic-psychedelic effect of beginninglessness and endlessness. This encompassed the conceptual-rational observation of surfaces through digital pop art lenses and the creation of intoxicating, shimmering surfaces. And it involves the negation of predictability.

Mit Maschinen Sprechen is on view through April 13th at Galerie Nagel Draxler, Weydingerstraße 2/4, 10178 Berlin.

Read Our Interview of Folk Artist Justin Williams On The Occasion of His Solo Exhibition @ Roberts Projects LA →

Oil painting by Justin Williams of his wife, Jade, reclining on a sofa behind a fortune teller.

Justin Williams
Major Arcana, death watching over Jade (2024)
Acrylic, oil, raw pigment and gold pigment on canvas
77.25 x 84.75 in (196.2 x 215.3 cm)

In Justin Williams’s newest exhibition, Synonym, at Roberts Projects, waves of stories collide and crash across timelines, pouring onto the canvas in lush and decadent palettes. Williams creates wormholes between his ancestral memories and the present day. His work carves spaces, ranging from cozy to claustrophobic, in which dead and living strangers coexist in moments of imagined connection. Williams’ world is seen through a kaleidoscope of childhood trinkets, native flora, and mythologized fauna, from goats to dogs to horses. The artist collects moments and mementos alike to collage in these quiet yet fantastical dreamscapes, mining through Westernized memories of suburban Australia and hitting rich veins of ancestral Egyptian aesthetics. Williams embraces the awkwardness of outsider life, and his work embodies the comforting realization that even outsiders create their own exiled community. To mark the occasion of Synonym, he discusses stories and people, which echo throughout his life and strangers whose moments of grief have shaped his work. Read the full interview here.

Judith Godwins’ First European Solo Exhibition Expressions of Life @ Pippy Houldsworth Gallery

Pippy Houldsworth Gallery presents American painter Judith Godwin's first European solo exhibition, Expressions of Life. The exhibition comprises an overview of the artist's work from the early 1950s - the period in which she was associated with the Abstract Expressionist movement - to the end of the century. The opening exhibition truly illustrates the artist’s lasting influence over the landscape of American art, despite the challenges she faced as a result of both her sex and sexuality.

Long underappreciated, Godwin’s contribution to the New York avant-garde has undergone recent revision following her inclusion in landmark exhibitions at the Denver Art Museum, Whitechapel Gallery and Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles, that offered a reappraisal of women abstractionists of the 20thcentury. Her thesis was – and remained – one of liberation from the conventions of a movement anchored in a language of masculinity and heteronormativity. Starkly aware of the limitations imposed on her by the milieu in which she practiced, Godwin sought to redefine such ‘masculine’ values by way of gestural abstractions that brought a loose geometry into dialogue with nature, dance and Zen philosophy. Her innovative reorientation of the language of modernism remains a radical statement today.

 

Godwin’s interactions with the New York art world began early in her career. As a student at the Mary Baldwin College in her native Virginia, she sought the acquaintance of the modern dancer and choreographer Martha Graham. Godwin’s invitation to Graham to perform at her college laid the foundations for a lifelong friendship between the two, and Graham’s trailblazing path in a world dominated by men became a touchstone for Godwin. The diaphanous washes of colour, colliding forms and sensuous arcs which characterise Godwin’s works from the early 1950s are indebted to Graham, whose performances she frequented on arrival in New York, often watching from the wings.

 

By 1953 Godwin had settled in New York and was continuing her artistic education under Hans Hofmann, whose influence can be seen in her dynamic approach to composition and colour. Provincetown Summer, 1953, exemplifies Godwin’s facility for translating depth and volume into two dimensions. Introduced to Zen Buddhism by Abstract Expressionist painter Kenzo Okada, such philosophies began to play a larger role in her painting, encapsulated by calligraphic brushwork, redolent too of Franz Kline, another close friend of Godwin’s. As the 1950s continued, the artist’s work took on larger proportions and a darker palette, all the while maintaining an organicism and proclivity for light and space in her evocation of the spiritual in nature. Her vigorous abstractions caught the attention of influential art dealer Betty Parsons, who included Godwin as the youngest artist in the inaugural exhibition at Section Eleven Gallery in 1958 alongside artists including Agnes Martin, and went on to present solo exhibitions of her work in 1959 and 1960.

 

During the 1960s, as Pop Art and Minimalism began their ascent, Godwin distanced herself from the New York art world, retreating instead to Connecticut where she worked restoring 18th-century homes and trained in masonry, carpentry and landscape design. Her return to New York in 1974 saw a change in her paintings, which demonstrated a robust communion with the outdoors and a physicality that invoked the power of nature. With its assertive cardamom red palette and esoteric iconography, Elegy to a Slain Deer, 1975, captures Godwin’s investigation of the relationship between the physical and metaphysical. As in her paintings of the 1950s, her keen appreciation of the corporeal form is palpable in the material presence of her body on the canvas, in body-length arcs of the brush that express her movements with agency. The liberation of the body and its inherent sensuality continued to play a central role in Godwin’s works of the 1980s and 1990s, as articulated by the flesh-inflected palette of The Nest, 1994. Godwin died in 2021 at the age of 91, just as her work began to reach new audiences worldwide. Her lasting legacy is in the transformative nature of her practice, which successfully recalibrated the masculine language of gestural abstraction, shifting representations of womanhood and sexual identity on the canvas.

Expressions of Life is on view through March 9 @ Pippy Houldsworth Gallery 6 Heddon St, London W1B 4BT, UK

Catherine Corman's "Lost Explorer" Is A Prosaic Observation of Beauty Hiding In Plain Sight

written and directed by Catherine Corman
based on the novel Honeymoon by Patrick Modiano
Jean: Roger Corman
Annette: Sally Kirkland
“Song of the Sea” written and performed by Emahoy Tsegué-Maryam Guèbrou

Jean (Roger Corman), an undersea explorer and documentarian, has begun to question his life’s work. Skipping a flight to Rio for his next expedition, he returns instead to the city, revisiting the places that inspired his quest for adventure, hoping to rediscover the longing that drove him to the ends of the earth, and which now pulls him back to his own past.

A statement from the artist:

“Years ago, I wrote a book about the Surrealist sculptor Joseph Cornell. His enchantment with the sea led to portraits of the mythical water nymph Undine, an homage to Descartes made of driftwood, and variations on Chardin constructed out of seashells. The sea became a sort of metaphor for art, each visible and knowable, and yet a mystery.

Another kindred spirit of the Surrealists was the undersea filmmaker Jean Painlevé, whose slow motion underwater ballets starring seahorses, starfish and seashells, illuminated the secrets of the depths of the sea. His mute, lyrical images are a poetic ideal that inspired Lost Explorer.

Painlevé and Cornell explored ways of creating art by of observing objects in the world, things as they are — sea creatures drifting along ocean currents, old postcards of mermaids, faded slides of white seashells - and revealing their natural, inadvertent beauty. 

In this film I have tried to observe the world and gently arrange it into poetry. I shot existing locations, unaltered. There was no crew — no set dressing, no lighting, no costumes. All the clothes my father wears are his own, all the props were found around our house.  

This is the simplest sort of filmmaking, more an observation of the world, with careful attention to all of its latent poetry, and openness to the mystery and beauty, barely hidden, waiting to be discovered.”

Object (Soap Bubble Set) (1941), Joseph Cornell

Still from The Seahorse (1931), Jean Painlevé

Catherine Corman's short films Lost Horizon and Little Jewel, based upon the work of Nobel Laureate Patrick Modiano, were long-listed for the Academy Award. Little Jewel was also invited to the Cannes Film Festival. Her short film Les Non-Dupes screened at the Berlin Biennale. Her book of photographs, Daylight Noir, was exhibited at the Venice Biennale and is included in the collection of the Museum of Modern Art. She was educated at Harvard College and Oxford University.

Roger Corman is an Academy Award winning filmmaker who has been honored by the Cinémathèque Française, the British Film Institute, and the Museum of Modern Art. He has made over five-hundred films, including a series of Edgar Allan Poe films, and a number of films chronicling the 1960s counter-culture. His film The Wild Angels was the opening night film at the Venice Film Festival. He received the first Producer’s Award at the Cannes Film Festival. He distributed films by Ingmar Bergman, François Truffaut, Federico Fellini, and Akira Kurosawa in America.

Patrick Modiano received the 2014 Nobel Prize in Literature. In his citation, the Nobel Committee highlighted “the art of memory with which he has evoked the most ungraspable human destinies and uncovered the life-world of the occupation." He has also received the Grand Prix du roman de l'Académie française and the Prix Goncourt. He is the author of more than forty books.

Sally Kirkland was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress for her performance in Anna, for which she also received a Golden Globe for Best Performance by an Actress in a Motion Picture, an Independent Spirit Award for Best Female Lead, and a Los Angeles Film Critics Association Award for Best Actress. A former member of Andy Warhol’s Factory, she has appeared in over two-hundred films.

Helene Delprat's Monster Soup with Hand-fulls of Figurative Extravagance @ Hauser & Wirth Paris

Over the past four decades, Delprat’s multifaceted practice has engaged the human condition as its focus, exploring life and death in an oeuvre that spans various mediums. After finding success for her distinctively primitive style of figurative painting, following her residency at the prestigious Villa Medici in Rome between 1985 and 1995, Delprat turned her focus to video, theater, interviews, installations and projects for radio, all whilst continuing to paint. Since the late aughts, the artist’s painting practice has been shaped by an encyclopedic research process compiling a remarkable archive of sources. Delprat’s works, together, comprise a sprawling constellation of references to literature, film, radio, philosophy, internet databases, recorded histories and art history. The title of this exhibition, ‘MONSTER SOUP,’ reflects this multidimensional approach by referencing a variety of sources from popular culture. The poster for the exhibition, created by Delprat, reflects this syncretism: the image, taken from a British 1820s etching depicting a woman in horror at the monstrous contents of a magnified drop of Thames water, is interspersed with Delprat’s painted characters. Likened to an iconologist, she distills eclectic sources of inspiration into an expansive inventory—a world both fortuitous and deliberate, beautiful and grotesque, where themes of memory, identity, recording and legacy coalesce to remind us that the past is a construction and the present is fleeting. ‘Intellectually, I start from everything I see’ she says, ‘...there is no real prep work, except all this reading, all these curiosities, the newspapers I flick through, the programmes I listen to and all the photos that I take or cut out. The preparation is simply what I am living.’

Monster Soup is on view through Saturday 9 March at Hauser & Wirth 26 bis rue François 1er, Paris 75008

XIMONLEE's AW24 Collection Looks at Cloth As A Language in Wrapping

 
 


photography by Xie Wenhao
styling by DeSe Escobar
styling assistance by Rebecca Rendina
hair by Ushka Nochi Tela
beauty by DeSe Escobar
casting by Jose Maria

From Japanese bondage art to traditional gift wrapping, XIMONLEE’s Autumn Winter 2024 collection takes eclectic inspirations and incorporates them into elegant day-to-day wear. As a general principal, the brand is committed to approaching its research by exploring disparate extremities in pursuit of a romantic wardrobe for all genders.

We can see a continuation of the brand’s signature leather coats and jackets with their chain-lock design and their oversized lapels with a handcrafted crease effect in the outerwear. The womenswear addresses drapery in ways that are at times classical and at others coquettish, wrapping the body like a present so as to gently play with notions of restraint. From lightweight maxi skirts and deconstructed gowns, to tops that are made for all occasions. After several seasons of exploring gender-neutral characteristics, the new collection marks the merging of masculine and feminine images within the brand’s discreet yet innovative aesthetic. 

Yves Tumor for Acne Studios FW24 Menswear Collection

 
 

Acne Studios shot American musician Yves Tumor for their FW24 Menswear collection and they couldn’t have chosen a more appropriate muse. The artist constantly shifts, alters and plays with the boundaries of contemporary music, art, culture and aesthetic. “Yves felt just right for the collection, they are one of those people who are true to their art. When they are on stage, it’s incomparable, it’s hard to find real performances like that. It feels scary and lovely at the same time. They also embody the space age, cyber psychedelic vision and at the same time they are super rock. The way they pull a look together feels very in the spirit of the collection. On the shoot, it was brilliant, it felt completely different all the time, downtown/uptown, low-tech/high-tech, scary and cute, all at once. Yves has all these different sides, which to me, represents what a true rebel is: a person you want to be, who doesn’t give a shit but makes immaculate choices.” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, Acne Studios.

An ode to Denim culture: rebellious, sexy, and cool. The modern cyber biker. Menswear motorbike archetypes subverted with a kitsch cuteness. Neons clash with classic grunge details, mixing with psychedelic prints inspired by rave and club culture.

Contrasted proportions: low-waisted, high-waisted, skin-tight and oversized. Micro tank tops and cropped shearling jackets juxtaposed with maxi boots and ultra-baggy denim. The look is layered, worn with individuality and playful experimentation. There is a sporty ski element in the styling, straps hang off the body adding length and functionality. Denim silhouettes are updated: a round shape inspired by the early 2000s and a low-waist flared trumpet leg, meant to drag around the foot.

Fluffy faux fur hats with cat ears, mittens and scarves inspired by Kawaii street-style culture. Mohair hairy yarn is found in a new squared beanie shape and in mitts and scarves, adding a fuzzy element.

Extremes meet: micro-sized vs maxi-sized. Trompe l’oeil totes are covered with keychains and charms, whilst the Platt bag is updated with studs, heart charms and pink detailing. A new Musubi model with chain straps is introduced and the Multipocket is reinvented in pink with a foiled shiny finish. New monogram handbag and backpack in black nylon with buckles and metallic bows.