The Olympics by Shahram Saadat & Elizabete Pakule

photography by Shahram Saadat
styling & creative direction by
Elizabete Pakule
hair by
Myuji Sato
make-up by
Dasha Taivas
production by
Daniela Noriega
photography assistance by
Nicole LeBlanc
styling assistance by
Alex Tang
modeling by
Em, John Foley, Dehiry, Neve, Kwadwo and Kristie

Neve wears full look by Mowalola.
shoes: stylist’s own

Kwadwo wears pants and jacket by Nadia Roberts.
skirt: Mowalola
shoes: Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

Kristie wears full look by Ethan Mullings.
shoes: Eva Lee

Em wears top and skirts by Alyssa Marie Groeneveld.
leggings: Diesel
boots: Brogan Smith

John wears dress by Eva Lee.
shoes: Sarah Inyoung Park

tracksuit: Diesel
heels: Brogan Smith
tights: Raquel de Carvalho

John wears tracksuit by Diesel.

Em wears jacket and shorts by Diesel.
bra: model’s own
bralette: Raquel de Carvalho
boots: Brogan Smith

Dehiry wears shirts by Pariahcorp.
pants: Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

Santa Cruz by Saskia Schmidt & Pino Sartorio

full look: Balenciaga archives

photography by Pino Sartorio
styling by
Saskia Schmidt
hair & makeup by
Ischrak Nitschke
modeling by
Marta Toba

coat: Barbour International
jacket: Brogger
dress: Jaded London 
shoes: Louis Vuitton x Vestiaire Collective

full look: Ottolinger

top & dress: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
skirt: Gucci archive 
glasses: HBA x Gentle Monster 

full look: Balenciaga archives

Masturbating To Solzhenitsyn: Nadya Tolokonnikova as a Hero of Our Time

text by Max Lawton

At dinner with Pussy Riot founder Nadya Tolokonnikova after a reading at UCLA, the famous Russian writer Vladimir Sorokin gets ready to make a toast––he loves making toasts. His toasts are often wry, slightly sarcastic, and metaphysical. They’re like little slogans drawn from his novels. But, getting ready to pronounce this one, he looks deadly serious. 
He meets Nadya’s eyes and raises his broad-bulbed glass of Malbec: 
“To a hero of our time!”
He takes a beat as glasses clink.
“I mean it Nadya… you’re a true hero of our time.”
Nadya looks touched. She thanks Vladimir in heartfelt fashion.
But Vladimir is also being a little bit funny. He does believe that Nadya is a hero of our time, he wouldn’t say it otherwise, but those precise words are, of course, a reference to the title of the classic Lermontov novel––a Romantic text about a doomed Russian soldier in Central Asia.
The meat of his words are what he means, but their surface always has a conceptual cast to them.
The dinner continues.
The reason Vladimir feels such a strong kinship with Nadya isn’t entirely explicable by way of typical notions of the Dissident in Russia. Vladimir is quite skeptical of the stereotypical cult figure of the dissident writer. Even so, throughout his 40-year career, Vladimir has constantly been in the crosshairs of the powers that be for his wildly controversial reimaginings and desacralizations of Russian life. In his first novel The Norm, he depicts the Soviet Union as an enormous social experiment in which the single most substantial rule is that all citizens must eat literal shit (referred to as “norm”) every day––or be arrested. In Their Four Hearts, he recasts the end of the Soviet Union as a Bataillean rampage filled with pedophilia and coprophagia. 
And in My First Working Saturday, he brings his experience in the Moscow Conceptual Underground to bear in the creation of strange prose texts that draw more from Andy Warhol than they do from Fyodor Dostoievsky. Starting out not as a writer, but a painter, Vladimir was inspired by the way that painters in the Moscow Conceptual Underground like Eric Bulatov and Ilya Kabakov simply appropriated Soviet visual tropes and used them in their paintings in a way that, though they were hardly altered, entirely deflated them. The short-story collection My First Working Saturday is made up entirely of binary bombs: their first halves are pitch-perfect imitations of Soviet Socialist Realist prose, but, in the middle of each story, there’s an explosion and some aberrant act of violence or linguistic insanity pushes the story into a new world that couldn’t be further from official Soviet aesthetics. 
However, it’s the novel Marina’s 30th Love that seems most relevant to Vladimir’s adulation of Nadya. In that book, the titular lesbian dissident often masturbates to the icon-like picture of Solzhenitsyn by her bed:

Through the spreading cigarette smoke, Marina met those eyes for the umpteenth time, then sighed.
HE always looked as if he were waiting for the answer to a question posed by his piercing eyes: what have you done to merit being called HUMAN? ‘I try to merit it,’ she replied with her eyes, large and slanting like a doe’s. And, as always, after the first mute conversation, HIS face began to grow more kind, his pursed lips lost their sternness, the wrinkles around his eyes gathered together softly and calmly, and loose strands of hair fell onto his forehead with a human helplessness all too well-known to her. His triangular face lit up with a familiar, tender kindness. 
[...] Marina was certain that everything with HIM would come to pass properly. As it was meant to happen––that which, alas, she’d never had with a single man. That stupid, medical-sounding term ORGASM was shoved out of her fantasies with disgust, synonyms were searched for, but they weren’t able to describe what the heart felt so sharply and clearly…
[...] HE always remained a form of secret knowledge, a hidden possibility of true love, that which Marina dreamed about, that which her slender, swarthy body craved, falling asleep in the arms of yet another girlfriend…

Even though she can’t have orgasms with men, Marina imagines that Solzhenitsyn––HE––will manage to give her one. For Vladimir, this part of the novel acts as a way to distance himself from basic, unreflective dissidence. His dissidence is better represented by Marina’s masturbation or by Stalin and Khrushchev’s apolitical anal sex in Blue Lard than it is by unimaginative pamphleteering.
When Vladimir cheekily referenced Lermontov in calling Nadya a “hero of our time” at dinner, I’m certain that his words were a way of making it clear that she also belongs to this nuanced mode of dissidence. 
Indeed, Nadya has proven herself capable of mastering wildly diverse idioms of art and discourse, then handily transforming them into conceptual outgrowths of her central project, which is simultaneously political, sexual, and aesthetic. To claim that Nadya’s whole project is simply undermining the Russian government would be just as ridiculous as those who would have Sorokin be a straightforward anti-Russian dissident in a Solzhenitsian mode. It’s for this reason that Nadya has said that “for better or worse, there would be no Pussy Riot without The Norm and Blue Lard.” 
Like Vladimir, Nadya coöpts genres and styles, eviscerates them, then makes them her bitch. 
An able and worthy mistress, Nadya turns punk rock, NFTs, conceptual installations, and performance art into latex-masked subs, all performing her will in a state of total submission.
Just like in Putin’s Ashes, a squadron of balaclava-clad women doing a ritual to bring about Putin’s death, they bear a flag with the Russian word for CUNT and a button that “neutralizes Vladimir Putin,” they stand in formation before a burning effigy of Putin’s face, Nadya, wearing a white balaclava, is the leader, drone shots above them in the beautiful desert night, the entire squadron stabs the ground, the women spit into the sand in Putin’s general direction, then Nadya collects the ashes from the effigy. 
Just as is the case with everything else that passes through her art, the Putin’s Ashes project has turned Vladimir Putin into Nadya’s bitch. 
Yes, in a very real way, over the course of the video, these ashes become Putin’s real ashes and no effigy. 
In that same vein, these days, Nadya often recites Orthodox prayers for Putin’s swift and painful death.
This performance might seem confusing from the perspective some people once had (or still have) of Nadya: a rock musician who writes anti-Putin music and was arrested for performances in public places. How narrow-minded and inaccurate! Punk was merely the medium for her message at that time. Now, it’s Death Grips and gabber-influenced electronic music––sometimes ornamented by her truly awesome death-metal screams––that has become a better accompaniment to her aesthetic project. 
But her project goes far beyond music. Given her recent collaboration with Judy Chicago, and the Putin’s Ashes exhibition, it should by now be utterly clear that Nadya is an artist who takes control of conceptual modes in the same way that Sorokin and his conceptual forebears in the Moscow underground once did. 
Any artistic idiom should be so lucky as to have Nadya dominate it––to have Nadya as a mistress.
Like Marina masturbating to Solzhenitsyn, Nadya represents a challenge to fossilized forms of dissident activity. 
It goes without saying that, in delivering his toast, Vladimir also meant that Nadya is a “hero of our time” in terms of sheer physical bravery. That’s probably what gives her a certain affinity with Lermontov’s hero. She’s a badass who puts herself in dangerous situations that most people wouldn’t dream of. But what she does on top of that, as in Putin’s Ashes is hyper-nuanced. 
It’s conceptual art and she’s a conceptual artist––even in the context of NFTs, and OnlyFans, and over-the-top music. 
I can’t wait to see what idiom this “hero of our time” appropriates next––to see which artform gets to wear the latex mask. Whatever it ends up being, I’m sure it shall be completely and utterly dominated by Nadya’s fierce artistic, political, and sexual energy.

Нож для Путина точу,
Зла тебе я не прощу.

Sharpening a knife for Putin,
I will not forgive your evil.

Max Lawton is a writer and musician, and translator of many books by Vladimir Sorokin and Jonathan Littell.

Putin’s Ashes
will be on view at Jeffrey Deitch from January 27 through February 3, 2023. 7000 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90038. On opening night (6-8PM), there will be a performance, click here to RSVP. Only people in balaclavas will be granted entry. Balaclavas will be provided at the gallery entrance. Guests are encouraged to bring their own balaclavas.

Shepard Fairey, Pussy Riot, Nadya Tolokonnikova

flyer by Shepard Fairey

Autre Hosts A VIP Dinner To Celebrate Issue #15 Fall/Winter 2022 "Losing My Religion" At Neuehouse Hollywood

Last night at Neuehouse Hollywood, Autre hosted an intimate gathering of friends and contributors for a dinner to celebrate the Losing My Religion issue (#15 Fall/Winter 2022). photographs by Oliver Kupper

Don't Look Back In Anger: Hedi Slimane For Celine at The Wiltern Theater In Los Angeles

text by Oliver Kupper

At Celine’s Women Winter 2023 collection presentation, we learned that Iggy Pop is still the second coming—even at seventy-five. And also, Hedi Slimane is one of the most important couturiers of our generation. He is fashion’s enigmatic zelig, always in the right place and always at the right time. Last night it was the Wiltern Theater in Los Angeles, an Art Deco landmark cladded in blue-green glazed architectural terra-cotta tiles on the corner of Wilshire and Western that was built in 1931 for vaudeville. The most Instagrammable moment in this shangri-la’s recent memory was an ode to a pre-Instagram era—the “Age of Indieness.” Celine’s runway show at the iconic theater, which was advertised with a blitzkrieg media buy across the city, on billboards and bus stops, opened with a larger than life Celine logo, decked out in disco lights that unfolded from the rafters, and a pulsating 20-minute original recomposition of the White Stripes’ iconic 2000 track, “Hello Operator.” After the finale, and a brief intermission, there were performances by The Strokes and Interpol—with an explosive opening act from Iggy Pop and some of his most iconic songs. He spit, he touched himself, his skin golden and wrinkled from Floridian rays and a lifetime of abusing his body on stage. The collection itself hit all of Slimane's familiar notes and silhouettes with variations on a theme: slim pants, tailored blazers, military jackets, glimmering gowns and hand-embroidery—his sartorial rebellion against the status quo, a love letter to rock n’ roll and the glamor of nightlife. If these notes sound familiar it is because Slimane is a fervent believer in repetition’s power to cement a designer’s modus operandi. In a recent conversation with Lizzy Goodman (author of Meet Me in the Bathroom: Rebirth and Rock and Roll in New York City 2001–2011), Slimane says, “...Repetition and consistency, quoting yourself, is key to creating the condition of the crystallization of a style and the longevity of it.” He continues, “The vocabulary may change with the time, but the syntax, the style, stays unchanged.” It may mystify some why Slimane continues to romanticize and harken back to this post-911 era of war and bloodshed in the Middle East and a burgeoning fiscal collapse. But a disillusioned pining for a confused golden age is not what Slimane is after—he is constantly searching for that clarion call for belonging. Last night at the Wiltern was proof-positive that music can be that call, and that musical movements of bygone eras were a result of this desire for communion. The question shouldn’t be why look back? The question should be why not look back. Fashion is constantly referencing itself. If done right, it can be timeless and beautiful—electrical even. Slimane quotes Carl Jung and his ideas around synchronicity for his timeliness—his collaborations with David Bowie, Mick Jagger and countless young, burgeoning musicians. His stark black and white images captured their regal visages with a crisp, eternal quality. Slimane tells Goodman, “I was surfing a wave without knowing where it would take me.” The wave eventually took him to Los Angeles at the height of Southern California’s indie scene, which grew around the time of the 2008 financial crisis. In 2016, a debilitating case of tinnitus forced him out of Los Angeles and to the more peaceful climes of Southern France. But with his most recent collection for Celine, Slimane is still blurring the line between the stage and real life, and he is still looking back, but never in anger. On the attitudes that defined the turn of the 21st century, Slimane says, “...Twenty years after, we can see it as a statement on disguise, a manifesto on the value of chaotic insouciance and stylish nonchalance.” He calls the amalgamation of fashion and live performance a “liturgical ritual.” At the Wiltern, all of this and his brilliance was on display.

AMEN Picasso: A Night @ The Picasso Museum in Paris

AMEN Candles celebrates the launch of AMEN Picasso with Diana Picasso, Haider Ackerman, Ellen Von Unwerth, Delphine Arnault, Giambatista Valli, Marco Ribeiro, Willy Cartier, Sinichiro Ogata, Prince Wenzeslaus of Liechtenstein, Pauline Ducruet, Quentin de Briey among many others.

Maison AMEN is a Paris-based candle brand that was established by Uruguayan-born designer Rodrigo Garcia in 2020. Pioneers within the market, they create high-end candle and light sculpture designs that are handmade in Grasse, the world capital of perfumery, just minutes away from Pablo’s Antibes Studio. On a mission to create a world free of plastic, AMEN’s products are entirely sustainable, made from vegetal wax that is free of toxic paraffin. They are poured into a reusable porcelain jar and packaged in plastic-free, mushroom containers that are carbon negative. The launch of their new collection of candles took place at the Musée national Picasso-Paris in collaboration with Diana W. Picasso, curator of the exhibition Maya Ruiz-Picasso: Daughter of Pablo.

With the aim of bringing together a significant ensemble of fourteen portraits, the exhibition asks us to reexamine a part of Picasso’s oeuvre through the prism of their filial relationship to highlight the bond that unites father and daughter and to emphasize how Maya’s presence nourished and amplified the artist’s fascination for childhood. Through the presentation of major works from the 1930s — portraits of Maya and Marie-Thérèse — sculptures, paper cut-outs, and memorabilia such as letters, poems, and personal objects, the project seeks to illustrate this chapter of Picasso’s intimate history. Completed by an important selection of photographs, some of which hitherto unseen, the exhibition will, more generally, question the relationship between Picasso and his children, notably during his years in Cannes during which the artist shared happy moments with his four children gathered together. It is the first of many Picasso exhibitions that will take place at museums around the globe throughout the year of 2023 in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the artist’s death.

The scented candles were selected by Rodrigo Garcia and Diana Picasso. As curator of innumerable Picasso exhibitions, she combines paintings with feelings and memories from her life as the artist’s granddaughter. “I felt strongly that the scent for Figure (1927) was Naranja y Canela, a Mediterranean summer in the south of France. Acrobate (1932) became the strength of the Ginger and Nu couche (1932), which translates to ‘Lying down naked’ is the sensuality of Amber. For Guitar a la main blanche (1932) with the letters MT, I remembered a love letter of my grandfather Pablo to my grandmother ‘You are always on me, Marie-Thérèse, mother of sparkling perfumes pungent with star jasmines.’ To me, it's been the most exhilarating experience to add sense to all these profoundly emotional works. I immediately responded to the beliefs behind AMEN: to add soul to the scents and to cherish our Mother Earth.”

scribbles of writing on a piece of paper.

The collection is available to purchase at the Musée National Picasso, Paris Dover Street Parfums Matket, the Met Museum New York, Gagosian’s galleries in New York & London, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Selfridges, Antonioli Milan, Moda Operandi, and globally through amencandles.fr. Maya Ruiz-Picasso: Daughter of Pablo is on view through December 31 at the Musée national Picasso-Paris 5 rue de Thorigny, 75003.

Neo Classic Sueño: Works by Chris Wolston Shot by David Sierra


photography by David Sierra
artwork by
Chris Wolston
production by
Radha León
styling by
Santiago Alzate
modeling by
Loui, Cristian, & Cristian

Photographer David Sierra captures forms that are tropical, sexy and oneiric. Taking inspiration from the work of Medellin-based artist/designer Chris Wolston and Neoclassical postures, these images center an appreciation for the body in its natural state. Relaxed figures that are visibly comfortable within their own skin interact casually with furniture and spatial elements in a fashion that is unpretentious and uplifting.

Look out for Chris Wolston’s furniture on view now with The Future Perfect @ Design Miami and watch the accompanying film on our instagram.

 
 

Design Miami Review: Reflections on a Future Golden Age of Design

 
A disco ball flattened on a basketball hoop.

Rotganzen
Quelle Basket, Miami Edition, 2022
Vintage Basketball Hoop, Quelle Fête
Mirror object: glass mirror, foam, grout, glue
Basket hoop: metal ring with fabric netting
62 x 69 x 80 cm
Edition of 12

 


text by Jennifer Piejko


There isn’t much time to sit down, considering all the seating options. For the eighteenth year in a row, Design Miami has set up next to the Miami Convention Center during Art Basel Miami Beach, bringing galleries, presentations, and talks to Pride Park. 

The fair’s curatorial director, Maria Cristina Didero, leads a program with the theme “The Golden Age: Looking to the Future,” which celebrates “a tomorrow of our own creation.” Looks like tomorrow can go many ways, including enthusiasm, or, if not, at least surrender to amusement: there are Gaetano Pesce and Matthieu Blazy’s lustrous dripped resin chairs for Bottega Veneta sitting in a prismatic half-circle, offering gleeful, freeform optimism (and one of them even a cheeky smile); Finnish designer Kim Simonsson’s mossy children and miniature astronauts occupying levels of an industrial metal scaffolding installation by Urban Umbrella at New York’s Jason Jacques Gallery; Amsterdam’s Rademakers gallery’s room of deflated, dripping, gluttonous disco balls by the collective Rotganzen.

 
 

Lots of designs for tomorrow incorporate historical elements into their design as well: the collection of Brazilian modernist pieces including work by Joaquim Tenreiro, Jorge Zalszupin, and José Zanine Caldas at Rio de Janeiro’s Mercado Moderno; sensual, weathered wood and stone by Natasha Dakhli and Giancarlo Valle at New York’s Magen H Gallery; warm bronze seating by Ingrid Donat, monumental Rick Owens chairs, and radiant, alien translucent cubes by Niko Koronis, shown by Carpenter’s Workshop Gallery; Maestro Dobel Tequila constructed their “Artpothecary” in the center of the fair, offering a pink crossroads of sorts in the installation The Mexican Golden Age by Mexico City-based design studio Clásicos Mexicanos, as well as their new Latinx Art Prize with El Museo del Barrio in New York, awarded for the first time next fall. 

A number of booths also took this year’s theme as a prompt for starting tomorrow at the beginning—looking backward. New York’s Bernard Goldberg Fine Arts had a booth of historical works, many of them screens and dividers, including Nicola D’Ascenzo’s freestanding stained-glass wall. The geometric Art Deco florals of The Chestnut Street Window (c. 1925) was made for the Philadelphia luncheonette Horn & Hardart, the coffee and sandwich dispensary that revolutionized “fast food.” Samuel Yellin’s Gates (1912–15), ornate black wrought-iron gates from a grand private residence, rest on a nearby wall; so do 1920s and ’30s fire screens by William Hunt Diederich and Adalbert Szabo, the latter made for the transatlantic ocean liner S.S. Normandie. 

A array of furniture with a gold table, wood accents in the back, and balloned shaped chairs.

The Future Perfect’s presentation at Design Miami/ 2022, Booth G09.
Photo: Joseph Kramm. Courtesy the artists and The Future Perfect.

As with so many art and design fairs, there are a fair number of mirrored works, providing lots of selfie opportunities. One of the most popular, the squiggly, tentacled gold wall mirrors shown by the Haas Brothers’ Gallery All, literally framed rose-colored glass. The simple change to the standard mirror gave passersby a chance to sneak in a little self-flattery and self-reflection, the little boost that it takes to keep moving on a long day. 

 
 

Notes of Tragedy: A Review of Volta Collective's "MILK" @ the Institute for Art and Olfaction


text by Summer Bowie

A smell of youth, sensuality, and otherness welcomes the audience into Volta Collective’s MILK, a multisensorial dance performance staged in collaboration with the Institute for Art and Olfaction. This is the scent of young Medea as defined by Saskia Wilson-Brown, the institute’s founder and executive director. Dominated by notes of winter spices, citrus, light florals, grape and fig, this inviting fragrance distributed through the audience on tester strips carries the sweet and piquant promise of juvenescence that our protagonist takes with her as she falls passionately in love with Man. No longer Jason, as his character is known in the classic Euripidean tragedy, but simply Man, as modernized by Alexis Okeowo, a staff writer at the New Yorker, essayist, and PEN/Open Book award-winning writer. In Okeowo’s reprisal, Medea and Man meet “kind of on the internet, kind of in person,” the way most of us meet our lovers. Man is described by notes of fresh sweat, muscled body, leather, ship’s wood, and ocean. He is the unsympathetic son of a political family defined by its proclivity toward nepotism, yet his reluctantly dutiful approach toward carrying the torch makes him a keen object of affection for Medea, the ambitious daughter of a garbageman.

The dancers embody these characters almost as vessels being fluidly possessed by multiple individuals over time, exchanging personages with one another in the same fashion that a zoomer might perform opposing subcultures from one day to the next. Their movement is scored by the nostalgic harmonies of harpist Melissa Achten made timeless by the timpani, organ flutes, and vocal synth employed by sound architect Nicolas Snyder. They preen itchily, embrace indulgently, and shrink obsequiously at times, followed by displays of proud exhibitionism that sublimate into moments of performative submission. These anxious, amoebic qualities feel familiar in their contemporariness; an uncanny valley of gesture and sonic sensation.

In their early stage of courtship, Medea finds herself struggling to step into a feminine identity that she can both perform successfully and connect to authentically. She has grown accustomed to “competing for the love of men, using her weapons of not-too-intimidating intelligence and charm to win their devotion,” which leads her to feeling like she is “wearing FEMininity like a kind of drag.” The dancers wear their characters in kind. They become all-consumed by the fullness of feeling so many emotions simultaneously, falling into states of frenetic mania that are tempered by brief, unexpected periods of static calm. These mercurial waves bely Medea’s occupational transition from upwardly mobile wife to doting mother in the shadows. She accedes her attempts at manifesting Man’s agency internally and settles for the proxy of power incarnate via the rearing of his two sons. He is inclined to take on his mayoral campaign independently while Medea stands high on a wooden table, emptying a pitcher of milk into her son’s open, waiting mouth. It’s in this moment when my acquaintance with feeling makes me uneasy in its perpetual, abiding nature.

A street with lamps criss-crossed above the dancers in movement. Two peoplew stand up in front while two other carry a dancer on their heads.

Photograph by Volta Collective

Man loses his election and seeks comfort in the arms of another woman who comes to bear another of his children. Medea unravels the way so many of her generation do, dissolving into the doom scroll of his social media, subsisting on Hot Pockets, and watching the Real Housewives while contemplating all the ways that she was “prettier and smarter than all of those embarrassing women,” and how “they all had more power.” Her ire is characterized by a perfume of winter spices, citrus, unwashed body, earth, blood, and burning fire. The dancers perform duets that feel like the competing psyche of a dual personality. They push each other’s heads and bite each other’s hands. They carry each other twisted and inverted, memetically gesture toward an invisible bow pulled taught with potential, fall into splits, and weave themselves into surprising systems of support. They orbit chaotically like an electron cloud around a still nucleus where what appears to be a central ego played by Okeowo is carried front and center. Our narrator recites their final verse wherein Medea ultimately decides to burn down the house where Man, his pregnant mistress, and her two sons are sleeping. As in the original tragedy, Medea flees and decides to start a new life elsewhere, “she was going to BE Man in her next story, she was going to rebrand.” And there we are, left with a parting bouquet that conjures the scent of the innocents: sweet bread, warm skin, blood, and of course, milk.

My lasting reflections are multifold and complicated. The scope of this experience felt so much bigger than what could be encompassed by a 30-minute performance on the pedestrian pavement of Chung King Road. It felt like something that exacted the attention of a full-length work on a proscenium stage. A duration and location worthy of the masterful choreography directed by Mamie Green and Megan Paradowski could breathe more life into the exigence of the tragedy. Performed and choreographed in collaboration with the accompanying dancers: Keilan Stafford, Marirosa Crawford, Claire You, and Madi Tanguay, I left feeling like each one of them packed their talent into a container that begged to be expanded. 

It also gave rise to thoughts on social systems scientist, futurist, and cultural historian, Riane Eisler’s cultural transformation theory. Among its many claims, this theory proposes that patriarchy, or dominator society, is not so enduring a form of social organization as it seems; that humans lived in partnership societies for millennia that weren’t defined by the rule of one gender class over another. She suggests that the role of many Greek tragedies was to redefine traditions of matrilineage (the idea that children belong first to their mothers and are named respectively) into a new era of patrilineage. Although, many treat Euripides’ Medea with a more feminist reading than other Greek tragedies due to her “getting away with the crime,” I would venture to guess those are the same people who saw a feminist bent in Emerald Fennell’s Promising Young Woman, a film where, Cassandra (another tragic Greek heroine) played by Carey Mulligan, exacts revenge on all men who cross her path. In her book Anxiety veiled: Euripides and the traffic in women, Nancy S. Rabinowitz states that the reason why Medea “turns her anger at her husband into violence against her children” is because “we are the heirs of mythology handed down not by the Medeas of the past but by the Jasons.” We are wont to sympathize with her over Jason in the first act only to be punished for our naivety in the last. The underlying thesis in all of these tragedies almost invariably serves us with the warning that women are not to be trusted with the full agency that is rightfully entitled to men. As a play that was initially received tepidly by Greek audiences, it’s intriguing that it has received more modern adaptations than almost any other. My sincere hope for Medea, as she will likely live on in the current and future zeitgeists, is that she might one day abscond with her two sons that she suckled with her two breasts and ensure that they are known by her last name, whatever it may be.

A bunch of models laying close or on top of each other with blood dripping from the leg of a woman standing above everyone. Others drinking and spilling around a bunch of fruit and flowers.

Photograph by Anna Tse

Read Our Interview of Teresa Baker on the Occasion of Her Solo Exhibition @ NADA Miami

A woman ( Teresa Baker)  in a studio with art in the back and a table at her side.

Raised nomadically along the Northern Plains of the United States, artist Teresa Baker spent her childhood shrouded in tribal storytelling. However, it wasn’t until recently that she realized how thoroughly steeped her visual work had become in all of these inherited allegories. Working with a wide range of materials, both organic and inorganic, she weaves the fiction and nonfiction of her heritage to create works that reflect the complex nature of American tradition. Referencing artists of the abstract expressionist, cubist, and postminimalist movements in harmony with the topographical territories and utilitarian objects employed by the Indigenous nations who inform her practice, Baker imbues her works with an autonomy that allows them to be singular and timeless. In anticipation of her solo exhibition with de boer, Los Angeles at NADA Miami, I spoke with the artist about her unusual path into artmaking, the influence of her wide-reaching travels abroad, and the delicate balance of becoming a mother while the demand for her work has skyrocketed. Read more.

Donate to CIELO This Giving Tuesday to Provide Critical Language Services for Indigenous Angelenos

Comunidades Indígenas en liderazgo (CIELO) is an Indigenous women-led non-profit organization that works jointly with Indigenous communities residing in Los Angeles. One of their key priorities is to fight for social justice through a cultural lens. The fight for social justice includes ending gender-based violence, providing language access rights, cultural preservation, and reproductive justice. CIELO is a link, a resource, and a liaison for migrant Indigenous communities residing in Los Angeles. You can learn more about CIELO and its matriarch, Odilia Romero, in our current FW22 issue, which is available for purchase in our online store.

Click here to make a donation today.

Maison Valentino Unveils A New Concept For Worldwide Stores

The venerable Maison Valentino unveils a new concept for its stores worldwide, presenting an evolution of the brand towards an increasingly human-centric approach through a more intimate retail dimension. A gradual redesign of its global locations, the project stems within the Maison itself and strengthens the brand’s focus on client experience through a contemporary design language. On the cusp of tradition and innovation, the concept represents Valentino’s identity as a Maison de Couture, with an interior design that speaks of the brand’s artisanal approach and aesthetic. The interiors allude to 1930s Art Déco motifs and a bold 1970s aesthetic, which merge into a contemporary language expressed through an eclectic material palette and details inspired by Roman buildings. The color tones of the textile walls are a nod to the tailoring busts belonging to the world of Couture. The new concept pervades the architecture of the stores, with ceramic tiles covering the façade, and floors defined by iconic geometric motifs rendered in Botticino and Sahara Noir marbles. Elements in onyx and wood contribute to the sense of warmth, elegance and discreet luxury. Special areas will be reserved for private appointments, to enhance the feeling of intimacy and exclusivity within a carefully curated setting. The new store concept will be rolled out globally.

Robert Colescott's "Women" Opens @ Venus Over Manhattan

Robert Colescott: Women traces the development of the artist’s depictions of female subjects over the course of his sixty-year career. Serving as a coda to the recent, critically-lauded traveling museum retrospective Art and Race Matters: The Career of Robert Colescott, this presentation charts the evolution of Colescott’s ambitious practice through some thirty works produced between 1955 and 1996. Organized in close collaboration with The Robert H. Colescott Separate Property Trust, Venus Over Manhattan’s exhibition is the first to trace the development of Colescott’s representations of women through major works from key moments in his career.

Robert Colescott: Women will be on view at Venus Over Manhattan’s downtown location at 55 Great Jones Street from November 15, 2022 through January 14, 2023.

 
 

Read Our Interview Of Ceri Hand: The Art Mentor Fostering A More Inclusive Art World

Ceri Hand, Photo by Lorna Milburn

From running a successful commercial art gallery to becoming Associate Director at Simon Lee Gallery and director of programs at Somerset House Trust, London, Ceri Hand, also known as the Artist Mentor, is championing a more holistic support framework for creative practitioners and professionals through her mentoring and coaching services. 

Lara Monro spoke with Hand about how her own experiences in the arts shaped her approach to mentoring and coaching, and why her upbringing instilled a level of responsibility in championing a more inclusive art world.  

Growing up in the Midlands, Hand was introduced to the importance of social justice and the need to support others from a young age. Her mother established and ran women's refuges and her father taught children with learning disabilities. While Hand came from a multi-racial family who combatted racism by achieving great success in business and embracing family, music and dance, she was confronted by the realities of prejudice from a young age. Read more.

"Terms of Belonging" Group Exhibition On View Now At Gavlak Gallery

Gavlak presents Terms of Belonging, an intergenerational exhibition of Latin American artists featuring Allora & Calzadilla, Candida Alvarez, Jose Alvarez (D.O.P.A.), Iván Argote, Ricardo Brey, Gisela Colón, Débora Delmar, Teresita Fernández, Ignacio Gatica, Lucia Hierro, Alfredo Jaar, Anuar Maauad, Carlos Martiel, Joiri Minaya, Gabriela Salazar, Yoab Vera, and Valeria Tizol Vivas. The word “belonging” conveys an effortless kinship: a natural affinity between like and like. The imposition of the word “terms,” however, shatters this ideal and serves to remind that communities are also forged through selective exclusions. By focusing solely on conceptual practices in the work of Latin American artists, Terms of Belonging asks what it means for an artist to refuse the call for “positive” representation on behalf of a marginalized community through established artistic conventions and forms. Though this pressure to produce and/ or represent on behalf of a larger cultural identity is not isolated to artists of the Latin American diaspora, Terms of Belonging proposes a framework for Latin American art that does not hinge on nationality or ethnicity. Like the contentious term “Latinx,” the exhibition signals the need to expand beyond antiquated categories of belonging while acknowledging the ways in which these new and supposedly more inclusive terms are themselves rooted in specific and localized definitions of Latin American experience. Like the broader conceptual and minimalist traditions to which they belong, the works in the exhibition do not comprise a rejection of figuration, or identitarian concerns entirely. Instead the inclusion or allusion to real bodies constitutes an acknowledgment of the reductive nature of individual and collective identity, and a desire to speak beyond the constraints of the self. The exhibition will continue through December 10, 2022. A closing panel moderated by curator Susanna V. Temkin, PhD. will take place on Saturday, December 10, 2022 and Valeria Tizol Vivas will perform her durational piece remejunje: requemar.

Warning Shots Not Required: Henry Taylor Proves His Undeniable Genius at MoCA Los Angeles

text and photographs by Oliver Kupper

This is his house. This is his city. This is Henry’s world. In the earth-shattering career survey of Henry Taylor’s oeuvre at MOCA Grand Ave. in Los Angeles, the artist proves beyond a reasonable doubt that he is one of the most important painters of our generation. Organized thematically, not chronologically, B Side is a tragicomic traversal, a dissection of the artist’s prolific body of work, but also a glorious star-spangled journey into the heart of a racialized America. Like a Max Roach drum solo or a Duke Ellington intro, the survey is an abstract confession of genius in a collective of large, energized paint strokes. There are friends, lovers, family, and humanized portrayals of people living, or more so surviving, on Skid Row. There is Miles Davis and his wife Cicely Tyson outside Obama’s White House—a distinct psychological examination of a "post-racial" America. Black Americana as a speculative exercise in fictional temporalities—the notion of hanging on to a dream like a vertical rock cliff. There is Emperor of Ethiopia, Haile Selassie, in full military regalia with the words ‘Tupac’ and ‘Coffee’—two cultural exports with distinctly colonial and revolutionary implications. There is track and fielder Carl Lewis long jumping past a white picket fence with a prison looming behind him and the word ‘gold’ written in large stenciled lettering. Indeed, a carceral foreboding looms over these paintings as a distinct soliloquy of Black life in America, and the thin blue line pierces through with horrifying consequences. In THE TIMES THAY AINT CHANGING, FAST ENOUGH! (2017), the killing of Philando Castile is captured in stark blocks of color: a body slumped over, arms clutching an invisible bullet wound, a twisted car seat, a white hand holding a 9mm glock. B Side also delivers a vast breadth of rarely seen works, like his sketches made during his ten-year stint working at the Camarillo State Mental Hospital where the likes of Charlie Parker and jazz pianist Phineas Newborn Jr. went to fight their addictions to heroin. There are also painted objects, like cigarettes, cereal boxes, and even a black typewriter case with the words: “I try to be write aint TRY’n to be WHITE.” In the end, you can never demand more, because Henry Taylor gives every part of himself. You are too stunned to flip the record over, so you let the stylus fall into the last groove where it crackles gently, romantically, to the edge of your reverie.

Henry Taylor: B Side is on view through April 30 at MOCA Grand Avenue

 
 

Jermaine Francis Presents A Storied Ground @ Galerie PCP in Paris

A blurry image of 2 men in a dry field, while one holds a dog. Both of them have their back to the camera.

PROJECTION: ‘A PROSPECT BEFORE KENWOOD HOUSE’ ENGLAND, 2022

The visuality of British Landscape painting in the tradition of such luminaries as Sir Thomas Gainsborough, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir John Constable have long provided viewers with a pastoral history of the British Landscape as an idealized and romantic one, free of the politics of the time and offering an aesthetic paradigm for the fabled “English countryside” that we know today. But the visual culture that produced those sweeping pastoral views, sometimes populated by wealthy white landowners, dressed in the finest garments of the time and enjoying leisure activities that were decidedly of the titled class. In fact, those sweeping views also contained nuanced messages pertaining to white ownership of that landscape, the right to surveil their own private property, and the centrality of the white body as both owner, and natural, and “neutral” inhabitant of that landscape.  

Using those same gestures as the centrality of the body occupying space, Jermaine Francis’ project obliges the viewer to reconsider who is considered a natural inhabitant of the British landscape. The history and the visualization of the landscape is about property and wealth, but embedded are deeper meanings alluding to a sense of belonging and ownership. This project situates the Black body within those landscapes with both an unflinching primacy as well as a natural ease. The participants of Francis’ photographs do not offer a reason to justify their position in the landscape: they have a right to occupy that space without explanation. This tension, as well as the lack of textual narrative accompanying the exhibition, challenges and invites the viewer to regard the Black body within the landscape as neutral and with agency; as being in harmony with and not as an anomaly to that landscape.  

A Storied Ground is on view through December 17 @ Galerie PCP 8 Rue Saint-Claude 75003