Every Single Look For Celine's Homme Winter 2023 Runway Presentation

Hedi Slimane delves into today’s youth’s rediscovery of the 2000’s electro clash and electronic rock sounds and scenes, a movement appearing in major cities like Paris, London and New York. He pays tribute to New York’s cult proto-punk band Suicide formed in 1977 by Alan Vega and Martin Rev, a band who in 2023 still intrigues and inspires the emerging music scenes. Key to the collection, the tight black leather Celine pants, are paired in “double leather” with biker and racer jackets customized with studs or rhinestones. The Celine coats are worn oversized and are cut out of cashmere or english tweeds recreated on a traditional loom. The Celine suits are slightly raised, worn with cropped flared trousers. The embroideries are handmade in the Parisian couture ateliers. The giant leopard and tiger printed coats are made from shearling cashmere. The models wear “nightclubbing” perfume, part of the Celine haute parfumerie collection. The pieces that pay tribute to Le Palace iconic years are limited edition.

Hedi Slimane Goes Back to His Youth For Celine's Men's Winter 2023 Show

Black and white photo of Le Palace club in Paris, France

The Celine 18 – Men’s Winter 2023 show is taking place at the legendary Le Palace in Paris. A place dear to Hedi Slimane that he frequented most nights during his youth starting from the age of 16 - Le Palace remains a sentimental place which triggered his future as a couturier and where he celebrated his 50th surprise birthday party in July 2018.

Originally built as a theatre dance hall in the 17th century, but also known for its years as a nightclub, in 1978 le palace was taken over by renowned impresario Fabrice Emaer, who animated the paris nightlife at the time. Commissioned by emaer to reimagine the space, architect patrick berger participated in revamping its rich art deco interior, installing the emblematic and modern chandelier of neon lights, playing a major role center stage lighting up the walls embellished with gérard garouste paintings.

Once considered a french version of new york’s Studio 54; the iconic Le Palace was one of the first nightlife venues where a variety of communities could mix freely with exuberance, attracting the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Grace Jones, Prince, Karl Lagerfeld, andy Warhol, Serge Gainsbourg, Mick Jagger, Jerry Hall and many more who enjoyed masked balls and live performances before making their way to the basement to Le Privilège private club.

Lara Monro Interviews Choreographer Holly Blakey In Anticipation of the Premiere of Cowpuncher My Ass

Photo of four dancers dancing in unison in front of large windows

Photograph by Max Barnett

Born in Harrogate, North Yorkshire, Holly Blakey found contemporary dance as a teenager. After she was rejected by a number of well-known dance schools, she attended University of Roehampton where teaching dance was the only option. What was initially a devastating and painful life transition turned out to be a profound moment for Blakey, leading to a fruitful career as a choreographer. Free from the confines of institutional models and languages of dance, she created her own — one that advocates drama and our lived experiences. 

Honesty, intimacy, and a sense of community feed into her work, as does her fascination with music, film, and TV. Her ability to emulate pop culture has led Blakey to traverse multiple creative industries such as directing music videos for musicians who include Florence Welch and Coldplay. She also had a longstanding collaboration with the late fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, whose widower Andreas Kronthaler, has designed the costumes for the return of her performance of Cowpuncher My Ass. This Wild West dance show, scored by Mica Levi, takes the notion of the hyper masculine, yet camp cowboy, as a starting point to explore the archetypes of masculinity through non-linear perspectives.  

Cowpuncher My Ass will be playing at Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Wednesday 15 February at 7:30 pm. 

Autre’s London editor at large, Lara Monro, spoke with Blakey in between rehearsals to discuss how the performance challenges what might be deemed acceptable in choreography and much more. Read more.

Pussy Riot Presents Putin's Ashes @ Jeffrey Deitch Gallery in Los Angeles

photographs by Morgan Rindengan

On January 27, Pussy Riot brought its radical performance art to Jeffrey Deitch's Los Angeles gallery, inviting everyone to join their protest against the authoritarian leader of Russia who started the biggest war in Europe since World War II. This was the first presentation of Pussy Riot’s political performance art at a gallery in Los Angeles.

Putin's Ashes was initiated in August 2022 when Pussy Riot burned a 10 x 10 foot portrait of the Russian president, performed rituals, and cast spells aimed to chase Putin away. Twelve women participated in the performance. In order to join, women were required to experience acute hatred and resentment toward the Russian president. Most of the participants were either Ukrainian, Belarusian or Russian.

Pussy Riot's founding member Nadya Tolokonnikova bottled the ashes of the burnt portrait and incorporated them into her objects that were being presented alongside her short art film, Putin's Ashes, directed, edited, and scored by Tolokonnikova.

"While working with artifacts, bottling ashes and manufacturing the faux furry frames for the bottles, I used skills that I learned in the sweatshops of my penal colony. I was forced to sew police and army uniforms in a Russian jail. I turned what I learned in my labor camp against those who locked me up. Putin is a danger to the whole world and he has to be stopped immediately," says Tolokonnikova.

In 2012, Tolokonnikova was sentenced to two years imprisonment following an anti-Putin performance. She went through a hunger strike protesting savage prison conditions and ended up being sent far away to a Siberian penal colony, where she managed to maintain her artistic activity and with her prison punk band made toured around Siberian labor camps. Tolokonnikova published a book Read and riot: Pussy Riot's guide to activism in 2018.

Pussy Riot stands for gender fluidity, inclusivity, matriarchy, love, laughter, decentralization, anarchy and anti-authoritarianism.

 
 

Ještěd Tower: Krista Papista with Isotta Acquati & Hakan Solak

photography by Isotta Acquati
concept by
Krista Papista
styling by
Hakan Solak
photography assistance by
Maria Larrea
styling assistance by
Aleix Llussà Lòpez
set design by
Jillian Van Koutrik
light design by
Ashley Young
hair by
Dushan Petrovich
makeup by
Lee Hyangsoon
produced by Grace Farson
location assistance by
Tatiana Bastos
graded by Carlos Vasquez
starring Krista Papista,
Débora Fernandes and Eliza Chojnacka

Débora is wearing blazer and shoes by Comme des Costumes, stockings by Falke, earrings by Uncommon Matters, and brooch by Hugo Kreit
gloves: stylist’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Lou de Bétoly, faux fur coat by Comme des Costumes, fishnet, stockings and socks by Falke.
shoes and necklace: Krista’s own

Eliza is wearing vintage Mugler by Nightboutique Berlin, heels by Comme des Costumes, rings and earrings by Alan Crocetti. gloves: stylist’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Lou de Bètoly, faux fur coat by Comme des Costumes, fishnet, stockings and socks by Falke.
shoes and necklace: Krista’s own

Krista is wearing dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta, Volkova by Nightboutique, coat by A Better Mistake, and shoes by Buffalo

headpiece by Bjoern van der Berg at Nightboutique Berlin

Krista is wearing dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta. Volkova by Nightboutique, and coat by A Better Mistake

Eliza is wearing tank top by Axel Arigato.
Krista is wearing net tights and socks by Falke.
jewelry: Krista’s own

 

Yearb00k by Prissilya Junewin & Camille Frank

photography by Prissilya Junewin
styling
Camille Frank
styling assistance by
Antonio Chiocca
hair by
Rabea Roehll
make-up by
Paloma Brytscha
casting by
First Encounters
modeling by Nora @
IZAIO Management, Xie, Giada, Paul, Sijo, Valentin, Cong, Anja

Read Our Interview of Heather Agyepong on the Eve of the Centre for British Photography's Inaugural Exhibition

 
Photograph by Heather Agyepong depicting woman in dress.

The Body Remembers, Le Cake-Walk, Wish You Were Here, 2020 © Heather Agyepong

 

On Thursday 26 January The Centre for British Photography will open for the first time. Founded by the gallerist and philanthropist, James Hyman, the charitable organization will present free, self-generated exhibitions as well as those led by independent curators and organizations championing the work of British photographers. 

Hyman explains: “We hope that through this initial showcase to make a home for British photography we can, in the long run, develop an independent centre that is self-sustaining with a dedicated National Collection and public program.”

There will be two leading exhibitions, organized in partnership with Fast Forward Photography. Headstrong: Women and Empowerment celebrates photographers based in Britain who have made work concerned with how they are represented, what they are dealing with in their everyday lives and what it means to embrace diversities that challenge the conservative order of a patriarchal society. And, Images of the English at Home takes the viewer on a journey from the street, up the front steps, and into the private spaces of the living room, kitchen and bedroom before sending them out into the back garden. 

Alongside the exhibitions, The Centre will spotlight five British photographers as part of an In Focus display; Natasha Caruana, Jo Spence, Andrew Bruce, Anna Fox and Heather Agyepong

Autre’s London editor-at-large, Lara Monro, spoke with the multidisciplinary artist, Heather Agyepong, to discuss her body of work, Wish You Were Here. Commissioned by The Hyman Collection in 2019, the series explores the work of Aida Overton Walker, the celebrated African American vaudeville performer who challenged the rigid and problematic narratives of Black performers. Read more.

Read Our Interview of Love Me Tender Author Constance Debré

Author Constance Debre at Paris coffee shop.

Until Semiotext(e) published Love Me Tender, Constance Debré was unknown in the United States. Like most French novelists, Debré’s life and literary career happen in Paris, a city she’s called home since birth, a city that seems to have shaped her classic French distaste for many current American cultural exports and obsessions. And perhaps it’s that Parisian je ne sais quoi that helps explain, in part, Love Me Tender’s splashy reception among American literati. Few foreign novels get translated and even fewer receive glowing reviews in The New Yorker, The Guardian, and The LA Review of Books. So, why is this novel appealing to Americans? And what does its embrace say about US literature? 

Love Me Tender follows an unnamed narrator who abandons her bourgeois marriage and law job to become a writer. Along the way, the protagonist loses custody of her young son after her spurned ex-husband weaponizes her newfound lesbianism against her. In a surreal literary twist, the ex-husband’s attorney convinces the courts that her collection of books by Genet, Bataille and de Sade prove her degeneracy and the embittered ex wins full custody. As the narrator’s legal appeals inch through the French courts, she writes, swims and takes many lovers, her months punctuated by awkward, chaperoned visits with her son at a state-run center once every fifteen days. Love Me Tender is a painful examination of motherhood, family, and the lines an artist must draw between themself and the world. But it’s also a punky take on sex and freedom drawn from Debré’s own biography, though the novelist provocatively insists that the book is not ‘about’ her.

Reading the novel in LA during the waning days of 2022, I couldn’t help but see in it a rebuke of the current literary moment, one often critiqued as straight-jacketed by moral and social objectives. On the other hand Love Me Tender is deliciously French, the narrator unsentimental, blasé even about choosing literature over motherhood, responsibility, and the trappings of upper-middle-class life. 

Originally, Debré and I met at the LA launch of Love Me Tender in October, 2022. After inhaling the novel, I invited her to read at my reading series Casual Encountersz — I was curating one in Paris and Debré enthusiastically accepted. Though a health issue ultimately kept her from the event, we met the following afternoon at Chez Jeannette, a bistro in Strasbourg Saint Denis popular among Parisian artists, writers, and glitterati. Debré, like the narrator in Love Me Tender, has a swimmer’s build and in person she’s warm and intellectual, kind of grand in her own way, gently tapping sugar crystals into an espresso, often palming her buzzed head of hair. Despite the lousy January weather, we sit outside, Debré across from me with her back to the street, just beyond Chez Jeannette’s awning. Though it drizzles throughout our conversation, Debré seems indifferent to the rain. Read more.

The Olympics by Shahram Saadat & Elizabete Pakule

photography by Shahram Saadat
styling & creative direction by
Elizabete Pakule
hair by
Myuji Sato
make-up by
Dasha Taivas
production by
Daniela Noriega
photography assistance by
Nicole LeBlanc
styling assistance by
Alex Tang
modeling by
Em, John Foley, Dehiry, Neve, Kwadwo and Kristie

Neve wears full look by Mowalola.
shoes: stylist’s own

Kwadwo wears pants and jacket by Nadia Roberts.
skirt: Mowalola
shoes: Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

Kristie wears full look by Ethan Mullings.
shoes: Eva Lee

Em wears top and skirts by Alyssa Marie Groeneveld.
leggings: Diesel
boots: Brogan Smith

John wears dress by Eva Lee.
shoes: Sarah Inyoung Park

tracksuit: Diesel
heels: Brogan Smith
tights: Raquel de Carvalho

John wears tracksuit by Diesel.

Em wears jacket and shorts by Diesel.
bra: model’s own
bralette: Raquel de Carvalho
boots: Brogan Smith

Dehiry wears shirts by Pariahcorp.
pants: Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

Santa Cruz by Saskia Schmidt & Pino Sartorio

full look: Balenciaga archives

photography by Pino Sartorio
styling by
Saskia Schmidt
hair & makeup by
Ischrak Nitschke
modeling by
Marta Toba

coat: Barbour International
jacket: Brogger
dress: Jaded London 
shoes: Louis Vuitton x Vestiaire Collective

full look: Ottolinger

top & dress: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
skirt: Gucci archive 
glasses: HBA x Gentle Monster 

full look: Balenciaga archives

Masturbating To Solzhenitsyn: Nadya Tolokonnikova as a Hero of Our Time

text by Max Lawton

At dinner with Pussy Riot founder Nadya Tolokonnikova after a reading at UCLA, the famous Russian writer Vladimir Sorokin gets ready to make a toast––he loves making toasts. His toasts are often wry, slightly sarcastic, and metaphysical. They’re like little slogans drawn from his novels. But, getting ready to pronounce this one, he looks deadly serious. 
He meets Nadya’s eyes and raises his broad-bulbed glass of Malbec: 
“To a hero of our time!”
He takes a beat as glasses clink.
“I mean it Nadya… you’re a true hero of our time.”
Nadya looks touched. She thanks Vladimir in heartfelt fashion.
But Vladimir is also being a little bit funny. He does believe that Nadya is a hero of our time, he wouldn’t say it otherwise, but those precise words are, of course, a reference to the title of the classic Lermontov novel––a Romantic text about a doomed Russian soldier in Central Asia.
The meat of his words are what he means, but their surface always has a conceptual cast to them.
The dinner continues.
The reason Vladimir feels such a strong kinship with Nadya isn’t entirely explicable by way of typical notions of the Dissident in Russia. Vladimir is quite skeptical of the stereotypical cult figure of the dissident writer. Even so, throughout his 40-year career, Vladimir has constantly been in the crosshairs of the powers that be for his wildly controversial reimaginings and desacralizations of Russian life. In his first novel The Norm, he depicts the Soviet Union as an enormous social experiment in which the single most substantial rule is that all citizens must eat literal shit (referred to as “norm”) every day––or be arrested. In Their Four Hearts, he recasts the end of the Soviet Union as a Bataillean rampage filled with pedophilia and coprophagia. 
And in My First Working Saturday, he brings his experience in the Moscow Conceptual Underground to bear in the creation of strange prose texts that draw more from Andy Warhol than they do from Fyodor Dostoievsky. Starting out not as a writer, but a painter, Vladimir was inspired by the way that painters in the Moscow Conceptual Underground like Eric Bulatov and Ilya Kabakov simply appropriated Soviet visual tropes and used them in their paintings in a way that, though they were hardly altered, entirely deflated them. The short-story collection My First Working Saturday is made up entirely of binary bombs: their first halves are pitch-perfect imitations of Soviet Socialist Realist prose, but, in the middle of each story, there’s an explosion and some aberrant act of violence or linguistic insanity pushes the story into a new world that couldn’t be further from official Soviet aesthetics. 
However, it’s the novel Marina’s 30th Love that seems most relevant to Vladimir’s adulation of Nadya. In that book, the titular lesbian dissident often masturbates to the icon-like picture of Solzhenitsyn by her bed:

Through the spreading cigarette smoke, Marina met those eyes for the umpteenth time, then sighed.
HE always looked as if he were waiting for the answer to a question posed by his piercing eyes: what have you done to merit being called HUMAN? ‘I try to merit it,’ she replied with her eyes, large and slanting like a doe’s. And, as always, after the first mute conversation, HIS face began to grow more kind, his pursed lips lost their sternness, the wrinkles around his eyes gathered together softly and calmly, and loose strands of hair fell onto his forehead with a human helplessness all too well-known to her. His triangular face lit up with a familiar, tender kindness. 
[...] Marina was certain that everything with HIM would come to pass properly. As it was meant to happen––that which, alas, she’d never had with a single man. That stupid, medical-sounding term ORGASM was shoved out of her fantasies with disgust, synonyms were searched for, but they weren’t able to describe what the heart felt so sharply and clearly…
[...] HE always remained a form of secret knowledge, a hidden possibility of true love, that which Marina dreamed about, that which her slender, swarthy body craved, falling asleep in the arms of yet another girlfriend…

Even though she can’t have orgasms with men, Marina imagines that Solzhenitsyn––HE––will manage to give her one. For Vladimir, this part of the novel acts as a way to distance himself from basic, unreflective dissidence. His dissidence is better represented by Marina’s masturbation or by Stalin and Khrushchev’s apolitical anal sex in Blue Lard than it is by unimaginative pamphleteering.
When Vladimir cheekily referenced Lermontov in calling Nadya a “hero of our time” at dinner, I’m certain that his words were a way of making it clear that she also belongs to this nuanced mode of dissidence. 
Indeed, Nadya has proven herself capable of mastering wildly diverse idioms of art and discourse, then handily transforming them into conceptual outgrowths of her central project, which is simultaneously political, sexual, and aesthetic. To claim that Nadya’s whole project is simply undermining the Russian government would be just as ridiculous as those who would have Sorokin be a straightforward anti-Russian dissident in a Solzhenitsian mode. It’s for this reason that Nadya has said that “for better or worse, there would be no Pussy Riot without The Norm and Blue Lard.” 
Like Vladimir, Nadya coöpts genres and styles, eviscerates them, then makes them her bitch. 
An able and worthy mistress, Nadya turns punk rock, NFTs, conceptual installations, and performance art into latex-masked subs, all performing her will in a state of total submission.
Just like in Putin’s Ashes, a squadron of balaclava-clad women doing a ritual to bring about Putin’s death, they bear a flag with the Russian word for CUNT and a button that “neutralizes Vladimir Putin,” they stand in formation before a burning effigy of Putin’s face, Nadya, wearing a white balaclava, is the leader, drone shots above them in the beautiful desert night, the entire squadron stabs the ground, the women spit into the sand in Putin’s general direction, then Nadya collects the ashes from the effigy. 
Just as is the case with everything else that passes through her art, the Putin’s Ashes project has turned Vladimir Putin into Nadya’s bitch. 
Yes, in a very real way, over the course of the video, these ashes become Putin’s real ashes and no effigy. 
In that same vein, these days, Nadya often recites Orthodox prayers for Putin’s swift and painful death.
This performance might seem confusing from the perspective some people once had (or still have) of Nadya: a rock musician who writes anti-Putin music and was arrested for performances in public places. How narrow-minded and inaccurate! Punk was merely the medium for her message at that time. Now, it’s Death Grips and gabber-influenced electronic music––sometimes ornamented by her truly awesome death-metal screams––that has become a better accompaniment to her aesthetic project. 
But her project goes far beyond music. Given her recent collaboration with Judy Chicago, and the Putin’s Ashes exhibition, it should by now be utterly clear that Nadya is an artist who takes control of conceptual modes in the same way that Sorokin and his conceptual forebears in the Moscow underground once did. 
Any artistic idiom should be so lucky as to have Nadya dominate it––to have Nadya as a mistress.
Like Marina masturbating to Solzhenitsyn, Nadya represents a challenge to fossilized forms of dissident activity. 
It goes without saying that, in delivering his toast, Vladimir also meant that Nadya is a “hero of our time” in terms of sheer physical bravery. That’s probably what gives her a certain affinity with Lermontov’s hero. She’s a badass who puts herself in dangerous situations that most people wouldn’t dream of. But what she does on top of that, as in Putin’s Ashes is hyper-nuanced. 
It’s conceptual art and she’s a conceptual artist––even in the context of NFTs, and OnlyFans, and over-the-top music. 
I can’t wait to see what idiom this “hero of our time” appropriates next––to see which artform gets to wear the latex mask. Whatever it ends up being, I’m sure it shall be completely and utterly dominated by Nadya’s fierce artistic, political, and sexual energy.

Нож для Путина точу,
Зла тебе я не прощу.

Sharpening a knife for Putin,
I will not forgive your evil.

Max Lawton is a writer and musician, and translator of many books by Vladimir Sorokin and Jonathan Littell.

Putin’s Ashes
will be on view at Jeffrey Deitch from January 27 through February 3, 2023. 7000 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90038. On opening night (6-8PM), there will be a performance, click here to RSVP. Only people in balaclavas will be granted entry. Balaclavas will be provided at the gallery entrance. Guests are encouraged to bring their own balaclavas.

Shepard Fairey, Pussy Riot, Nadya Tolokonnikova

flyer by Shepard Fairey

Autre Hosts A VIP Dinner To Celebrate Issue #15 Fall/Winter 2022 "Losing My Religion" At Neuehouse Hollywood

Last night at Neuehouse Hollywood, Autre hosted an intimate gathering of friends and contributors for a dinner to celebrate the Losing My Religion issue (#15 Fall/Winter 2022). photographs by Oliver Kupper

Don't Look Back In Anger: Hedi Slimane For Celine at The Wiltern Theater In Los Angeles

text by Oliver Kupper

At Celine’s Women Winter 2023 collection presentation, we learned that Iggy Pop is still the second coming—even at seventy-five. And also, Hedi Slimane is one of the most important couturiers of our generation. He is fashion’s enigmatic zelig, always in the right place and always at the right time. Last night it was the Wiltern Theater in Los Angeles, an Art Deco landmark cladded in blue-green glazed architectural terra-cotta tiles on the corner of Wilshire and Western that was built in 1931 for vaudeville. The most Instagrammable moment in this shangri-la’s recent memory was an ode to a pre-Instagram era—the “Age of Indieness.” Celine’s runway show at the iconic theater, which was advertised with a blitzkrieg media buy across the city, on billboards and bus stops, opened with a larger than life Celine logo, decked out in disco lights that unfolded from the rafters, and a pulsating 20-minute original recomposition of the White Stripes’ iconic 2000 track, “Hello Operator.” After the finale, and a brief intermission, there were performances by The Strokes and Interpol—with an explosive opening act from Iggy Pop and some of his most iconic songs. He spit, he touched himself, his skin golden and wrinkled from Floridian rays and a lifetime of abusing his body on stage. The collection itself hit all of Slimane's familiar notes and silhouettes with variations on a theme: slim pants, tailored blazers, military jackets, glimmering gowns and hand-embroidery—his sartorial rebellion against the status quo, a love letter to rock n’ roll and the glamor of nightlife. If these notes sound familiar it is because Slimane is a fervent believer in repetition’s power to cement a designer’s modus operandi. In a recent conversation with Lizzy Goodman (author of Meet Me in the Bathroom: Rebirth and Rock and Roll in New York City 2001–2011), Slimane says, “...Repetition and consistency, quoting yourself, is key to creating the condition of the crystallization of a style and the longevity of it.” He continues, “The vocabulary may change with the time, but the syntax, the style, stays unchanged.” It may mystify some why Slimane continues to romanticize and harken back to this post-911 era of war and bloodshed in the Middle East and a burgeoning fiscal collapse. But a disillusioned pining for a confused golden age is not what Slimane is after—he is constantly searching for that clarion call for belonging. Last night at the Wiltern was proof-positive that music can be that call, and that musical movements of bygone eras were a result of this desire for communion. The question shouldn’t be why look back? The question should be why not look back. Fashion is constantly referencing itself. If done right, it can be timeless and beautiful—electrical even. Slimane quotes Carl Jung and his ideas around synchronicity for his timeliness—his collaborations with David Bowie, Mick Jagger and countless young, burgeoning musicians. His stark black and white images captured their regal visages with a crisp, eternal quality. Slimane tells Goodman, “I was surfing a wave without knowing where it would take me.” The wave eventually took him to Los Angeles at the height of Southern California’s indie scene, which grew around the time of the 2008 financial crisis. In 2016, a debilitating case of tinnitus forced him out of Los Angeles and to the more peaceful climes of Southern France. But with his most recent collection for Celine, Slimane is still blurring the line between the stage and real life, and he is still looking back, but never in anger. On the attitudes that defined the turn of the 21st century, Slimane says, “...Twenty years after, we can see it as a statement on disguise, a manifesto on the value of chaotic insouciance and stylish nonchalance.” He calls the amalgamation of fashion and live performance a “liturgical ritual.” At the Wiltern, all of this and his brilliance was on display.

AMEN Picasso: A Night @ The Picasso Museum in Paris

AMEN Candles celebrates the launch of AMEN Picasso with Diana Picasso, Haider Ackerman, Ellen Von Unwerth, Delphine Arnault, Giambatista Valli, Marco Ribeiro, Willy Cartier, Sinichiro Ogata, Prince Wenzeslaus of Liechtenstein, Pauline Ducruet, Quentin de Briey among many others.

Maison AMEN is a Paris-based candle brand that was established by Uruguayan-born designer Rodrigo Garcia in 2020. Pioneers within the market, they create high-end candle and light sculpture designs that are handmade in Grasse, the world capital of perfumery, just minutes away from Pablo’s Antibes Studio. On a mission to create a world free of plastic, AMEN’s products are entirely sustainable, made from vegetal wax that is free of toxic paraffin. They are poured into a reusable porcelain jar and packaged in plastic-free, mushroom containers that are carbon negative. The launch of their new collection of candles took place at the Musée national Picasso-Paris in collaboration with Diana W. Picasso, curator of the exhibition Maya Ruiz-Picasso: Daughter of Pablo.

With the aim of bringing together a significant ensemble of fourteen portraits, the exhibition asks us to reexamine a part of Picasso’s oeuvre through the prism of their filial relationship to highlight the bond that unites father and daughter and to emphasize how Maya’s presence nourished and amplified the artist’s fascination for childhood. Through the presentation of major works from the 1930s — portraits of Maya and Marie-Thérèse — sculptures, paper cut-outs, and memorabilia such as letters, poems, and personal objects, the project seeks to illustrate this chapter of Picasso’s intimate history. Completed by an important selection of photographs, some of which hitherto unseen, the exhibition will, more generally, question the relationship between Picasso and his children, notably during his years in Cannes during which the artist shared happy moments with his four children gathered together. It is the first of many Picasso exhibitions that will take place at museums around the globe throughout the year of 2023 in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the artist’s death.

The scented candles were selected by Rodrigo Garcia and Diana Picasso. As curator of innumerable Picasso exhibitions, she combines paintings with feelings and memories from her life as the artist’s granddaughter. “I felt strongly that the scent for Figure (1927) was Naranja y Canela, a Mediterranean summer in the south of France. Acrobate (1932) became the strength of the Ginger and Nu couche (1932), which translates to ‘Lying down naked’ is the sensuality of Amber. For Guitar a la main blanche (1932) with the letters MT, I remembered a love letter of my grandfather Pablo to my grandmother ‘You are always on me, Marie-Thérèse, mother of sparkling perfumes pungent with star jasmines.’ To me, it's been the most exhilarating experience to add sense to all these profoundly emotional works. I immediately responded to the beliefs behind AMEN: to add soul to the scents and to cherish our Mother Earth.”

scribbles of writing on a piece of paper.

The collection is available to purchase at the Musée National Picasso, Paris Dover Street Parfums Matket, the Met Museum New York, Gagosian’s galleries in New York & London, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Selfridges, Antonioli Milan, Moda Operandi, and globally through amencandles.fr. Maya Ruiz-Picasso: Daughter of Pablo is on view through December 31 at the Musée national Picasso-Paris 5 rue de Thorigny, 75003.

Neo Classic Sueño: Works by Chris Wolston Shot by David Sierra


photography by David Sierra
artwork by
Chris Wolston
production by
Radha León
styling by
Santiago Alzate
modeling by
Loui, Cristian, & Cristian

Photographer David Sierra captures forms that are tropical, sexy and oneiric. Taking inspiration from the work of Medellin-based artist/designer Chris Wolston and Neoclassical postures, these images center an appreciation for the body in its natural state. Relaxed figures that are visibly comfortable within their own skin interact casually with furniture and spatial elements in a fashion that is unpretentious and uplifting.

Look out for Chris Wolston’s furniture on view now with The Future Perfect @ Design Miami and watch the accompanying film on our instagram.

 
 

Design Miami Review: Reflections on a Future Golden Age of Design

 
A disco ball flattened on a basketball hoop.

Rotganzen
Quelle Basket, Miami Edition, 2022
Vintage Basketball Hoop, Quelle Fête
Mirror object: glass mirror, foam, grout, glue
Basket hoop: metal ring with fabric netting
62 x 69 x 80 cm
Edition of 12

 


text by Jennifer Piejko


There isn’t much time to sit down, considering all the seating options. For the eighteenth year in a row, Design Miami has set up next to the Miami Convention Center during Art Basel Miami Beach, bringing galleries, presentations, and talks to Pride Park. 

The fair’s curatorial director, Maria Cristina Didero, leads a program with the theme “The Golden Age: Looking to the Future,” which celebrates “a tomorrow of our own creation.” Looks like tomorrow can go many ways, including enthusiasm, or, if not, at least surrender to amusement: there are Gaetano Pesce and Matthieu Blazy’s lustrous dripped resin chairs for Bottega Veneta sitting in a prismatic half-circle, offering gleeful, freeform optimism (and one of them even a cheeky smile); Finnish designer Kim Simonsson’s mossy children and miniature astronauts occupying levels of an industrial metal scaffolding installation by Urban Umbrella at New York’s Jason Jacques Gallery; Amsterdam’s Rademakers gallery’s room of deflated, dripping, gluttonous disco balls by the collective Rotganzen.

 
 

Lots of designs for tomorrow incorporate historical elements into their design as well: the collection of Brazilian modernist pieces including work by Joaquim Tenreiro, Jorge Zalszupin, and José Zanine Caldas at Rio de Janeiro’s Mercado Moderno; sensual, weathered wood and stone by Natasha Dakhli and Giancarlo Valle at New York’s Magen H Gallery; warm bronze seating by Ingrid Donat, monumental Rick Owens chairs, and radiant, alien translucent cubes by Niko Koronis, shown by Carpenter’s Workshop Gallery; Maestro Dobel Tequila constructed their “Artpothecary” in the center of the fair, offering a pink crossroads of sorts in the installation The Mexican Golden Age by Mexico City-based design studio Clásicos Mexicanos, as well as their new Latinx Art Prize with El Museo del Barrio in New York, awarded for the first time next fall. 

A number of booths also took this year’s theme as a prompt for starting tomorrow at the beginning—looking backward. New York’s Bernard Goldberg Fine Arts had a booth of historical works, many of them screens and dividers, including Nicola D’Ascenzo’s freestanding stained-glass wall. The geometric Art Deco florals of The Chestnut Street Window (c. 1925) was made for the Philadelphia luncheonette Horn & Hardart, the coffee and sandwich dispensary that revolutionized “fast food.” Samuel Yellin’s Gates (1912–15), ornate black wrought-iron gates from a grand private residence, rest on a nearby wall; so do 1920s and ’30s fire screens by William Hunt Diederich and Adalbert Szabo, the latter made for the transatlantic ocean liner S.S. Normandie. 

A array of furniture with a gold table, wood accents in the back, and balloned shaped chairs.

The Future Perfect’s presentation at Design Miami/ 2022, Booth G09.
Photo: Joseph Kramm. Courtesy the artists and The Future Perfect.

As with so many art and design fairs, there are a fair number of mirrored works, providing lots of selfie opportunities. One of the most popular, the squiggly, tentacled gold wall mirrors shown by the Haas Brothers’ Gallery All, literally framed rose-colored glass. The simple change to the standard mirror gave passersby a chance to sneak in a little self-flattery and self-reflection, the little boost that it takes to keep moving on a long day. 

 
 

Notes of Tragedy: A Review of Volta Collective's "MILK" @ the Institute for Art and Olfaction


text by Summer Bowie

A smell of youth, sensuality, and otherness welcomes the audience into Volta Collective’s MILK, a multisensorial dance performance staged in collaboration with the Institute for Art and Olfaction. This is the scent of young Medea as defined by Saskia Wilson-Brown, the institute’s founder and executive director. Dominated by notes of winter spices, citrus, light florals, grape and fig, this inviting fragrance distributed through the audience on tester strips carries the sweet and piquant promise of juvenescence that our protagonist takes with her as she falls passionately in love with Man. No longer Jason, as his character is known in the classic Euripidean tragedy, but simply Man, as modernized by Alexis Okeowo, a staff writer at the New Yorker, essayist, and PEN/Open Book award-winning writer. In Okeowo’s reprisal, Medea and Man meet “kind of on the internet, kind of in person,” the way most of us meet our lovers. Man is described by notes of fresh sweat, muscled body, leather, ship’s wood, and ocean. He is the unsympathetic son of a political family defined by its proclivity toward nepotism, yet his reluctantly dutiful approach toward carrying the torch makes him a keen object of affection for Medea, the ambitious daughter of a garbageman.

The dancers embody these characters almost as vessels being fluidly possessed by multiple individuals over time, exchanging personages with one another in the same fashion that a zoomer might perform opposing subcultures from one day to the next. Their movement is scored by the nostalgic harmonies of harpist Melissa Achten made timeless by the timpani, organ flutes, and vocal synth employed by sound architect Nicolas Snyder. They preen itchily, embrace indulgently, and shrink obsequiously at times, followed by displays of proud exhibitionism that sublimate into moments of performative submission. These anxious, amoebic qualities feel familiar in their contemporariness; an uncanny valley of gesture and sonic sensation.

In their early stage of courtship, Medea finds herself struggling to step into a feminine identity that she can both perform successfully and connect to authentically. She has grown accustomed to “competing for the love of men, using her weapons of not-too-intimidating intelligence and charm to win their devotion,” which leads her to feeling like she is “wearing FEMininity like a kind of drag.” The dancers wear their characters in kind. They become all-consumed by the fullness of feeling so many emotions simultaneously, falling into states of frenetic mania that are tempered by brief, unexpected periods of static calm. These mercurial waves bely Medea’s occupational transition from upwardly mobile wife to doting mother in the shadows. She accedes her attempts at manifesting Man’s agency internally and settles for the proxy of power incarnate via the rearing of his two sons. He is inclined to take on his mayoral campaign independently while Medea stands high on a wooden table, emptying a pitcher of milk into her son’s open, waiting mouth. It’s in this moment when my acquaintance with feeling makes me uneasy in its perpetual, abiding nature.

A street with lamps criss-crossed above the dancers in movement. Two peoplew stand up in front while two other carry a dancer on their heads.

Photograph by Volta Collective

Man loses his election and seeks comfort in the arms of another woman who comes to bear another of his children. Medea unravels the way so many of her generation do, dissolving into the doom scroll of his social media, subsisting on Hot Pockets, and watching the Real Housewives while contemplating all the ways that she was “prettier and smarter than all of those embarrassing women,” and how “they all had more power.” Her ire is characterized by a perfume of winter spices, citrus, unwashed body, earth, blood, and burning fire. The dancers perform duets that feel like the competing psyche of a dual personality. They push each other’s heads and bite each other’s hands. They carry each other twisted and inverted, memetically gesture toward an invisible bow pulled taught with potential, fall into splits, and weave themselves into surprising systems of support. They orbit chaotically like an electron cloud around a still nucleus where what appears to be a central ego played by Okeowo is carried front and center. Our narrator recites their final verse wherein Medea ultimately decides to burn down the house where Man, his pregnant mistress, and her two sons are sleeping. As in the original tragedy, Medea flees and decides to start a new life elsewhere, “she was going to BE Man in her next story, she was going to rebrand.” And there we are, left with a parting bouquet that conjures the scent of the innocents: sweet bread, warm skin, blood, and of course, milk.

My lasting reflections are multifold and complicated. The scope of this experience felt so much bigger than what could be encompassed by a 30-minute performance on the pedestrian pavement of Chung King Road. It felt like something that exacted the attention of a full-length work on a proscenium stage. A duration and location worthy of the masterful choreography directed by Mamie Green and Megan Paradowski could breathe more life into the exigence of the tragedy. Performed and choreographed in collaboration with the accompanying dancers: Keilan Stafford, Marirosa Crawford, Claire You, and Madi Tanguay, I left feeling like each one of them packed their talent into a container that begged to be expanded. 

It also gave rise to thoughts on social systems scientist, futurist, and cultural historian, Riane Eisler’s cultural transformation theory. Among its many claims, this theory proposes that patriarchy, or dominator society, is not so enduring a form of social organization as it seems; that humans lived in partnership societies for millennia that weren’t defined by the rule of one gender class over another. She suggests that the role of many Greek tragedies was to redefine traditions of matrilineage (the idea that children belong first to their mothers and are named respectively) into a new era of patrilineage. Although, many treat Euripides’ Medea with a more feminist reading than other Greek tragedies due to her “getting away with the crime,” I would venture to guess those are the same people who saw a feminist bent in Emerald Fennell’s Promising Young Woman, a film where, Cassandra (another tragic Greek heroine) played by Carey Mulligan, exacts revenge on all men who cross her path. In her book Anxiety veiled: Euripides and the traffic in women, Nancy S. Rabinowitz states that the reason why Medea “turns her anger at her husband into violence against her children” is because “we are the heirs of mythology handed down not by the Medeas of the past but by the Jasons.” We are wont to sympathize with her over Jason in the first act only to be punished for our naivety in the last. The underlying thesis in all of these tragedies almost invariably serves us with the warning that women are not to be trusted with the full agency that is rightfully entitled to men. As a play that was initially received tepidly by Greek audiences, it’s intriguing that it has received more modern adaptations than almost any other. My sincere hope for Medea, as she will likely live on in the current and future zeitgeists, is that she might one day abscond with her two sons that she suckled with her two breasts and ensure that they are known by her last name, whatever it may be.

A bunch of models laying close or on top of each other with blood dripping from the leg of a woman standing above everyone. Others drinking and spilling around a bunch of fruit and flowers.

Photograph by Anna Tse

Read Our Interview of Teresa Baker on the Occasion of Her Solo Exhibition @ NADA Miami

A woman ( Teresa Baker)  in a studio with art in the back and a table at her side.

Raised nomadically along the Northern Plains of the United States, artist Teresa Baker spent her childhood shrouded in tribal storytelling. However, it wasn’t until recently that she realized how thoroughly steeped her visual work had become in all of these inherited allegories. Working with a wide range of materials, both organic and inorganic, she weaves the fiction and nonfiction of her heritage to create works that reflect the complex nature of American tradition. Referencing artists of the abstract expressionist, cubist, and postminimalist movements in harmony with the topographical territories and utilitarian objects employed by the Indigenous nations who inform her practice, Baker imbues her works with an autonomy that allows them to be singular and timeless. In anticipation of her solo exhibition with de boer, Los Angeles at NADA Miami, I spoke with the artist about her unusual path into artmaking, the influence of her wide-reaching travels abroad, and the delicate balance of becoming a mother while the demand for her work has skyrocketed. Read more.