The Prada Fall/Winter 2024 advertising campaign, titled ‘Now That We Are Here,’ is based on dialogue, on conversation between individuals - not just conveying knowledge and exchanging experience, but also as expressions of intimacy and presence. In a real-life mirror of the telephone interchanges at the heart of the campaign’s still and motion imagery, Prada collaborates with American filmmaker, artist, and writer Miranda July to bring these fantasized conversations to life. Billboards across key cities worldwide— Milan, Los Angeles, New York, London and Bangkok—advertise a dedicated toll-free phone number, allowing the public to interact from their own devices. Callers can “dial in” to speak with Miranda July, or rather, with July’s voice, which interprets conversation with the caller according to a pre-programmed script written by July herself. Combining the provocative with the quotidian, the intellectual with the instinctive, the scripted calls have a multitude of variations, randomly selected and triggered by caller responses. Spanning from ironic advice to seemingly friendly conversation to surreal and unexpected scenarios, each interaction tells an individual story determined by interaction - another form of dialogue. In July’s own words and her own voice, this Prada hotline combines technology with gestures to the analogue. It also seems to lift the lid on the campaign itself - allowing an audience to ‘listen in’ to the fragmented conversations hinted at. Ambiguous, abstract, possibly revelatory, each caller enters a unique exchange—with July, and with Prada—to unravel the meaning behind the image.
Watch Balenciaga's New Bel Air Campaign Featuring Isabelle Huppert
Everyone knows that when Isabelle Huppert calls, you should pick up the phone. The Balenciaga Bel Air campaign features brand ambassadors Isabelle Huppert and Michelle Yeoh, as well as actress Naomi Watts, in a series of photographs and behind-the-scenes videos by Nadav Kander.
Summergust by Charlotte Helwig & Natalia Farnaus
Fake fur stole DIESEL
Latex briefs & socks stylist's own
photography by Charlotte Helwig
styling by Natalia Farnaus
Ine Michelmann via Modelwerk
makeup by Leana Ardeleanu
hair by Noriko Takayama
lighting by Max Muthig
photography assistant Emi Iguchi
set design by Georgina Bates
Nappa leather high-neck blouse JOSEPH
Raffia dress JIMENA GUZMAN
Nude briefs WOLFORD
Statement shoulder midi dress SPORTMAX
Velvet dress TRANSE PARIS
Sheer tights FALKE
Shoes stylist's own
Double-layered blazer SPORTMAX
Double-layered midi skirt SPORTMAX
Leather triangle bra ZANA BAYNE
Ruched crop top NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
Sequin skirt NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
Leather triangle bra ZANA BAYNE
Cotton briefs WOLFORD
Statement shoulder midi dress SPORTMAX
Stretch Napa-leather boots SPORTMAX
Distressed t-shirt stylist's own
Bustier top with leather bra JIMENA GUZMAN
Leather briefs JIMENA GUZMAN
Single-breasted coat DIESEL
Blazer worn back to front T/SEHNE
Tassle skirt TIM RYAN
Prada Group and UNFPA Celebrated the Completion of Their Fashion Training Program in Mexico
Prada Group and UNFPA celebrated the completion of their first-of-its-kind fashion training program "Fashion Expressions: The Stories She Wears" in Mexico with an intimate event to highlight the milestones that the artisans achieved during the six-month period.
The training program implemented by UNFPA Mexico provides women with valuable knowledge and practical skills in the fashion industry while promoting women’s empowerment and sexual reproductive health. The expansion of the program to Querétaro state (Mexico) was initiated in September 2023.
The project involved thirty women artisans in Querétaro state, from Indigenous and surrounding communities with experience in weaving and embroidery, to strengthen their technical, artistic, and financial skills.
The participants – embroiderers and weavers between 18 and 50 years old – were mothers who work as artisans in small family-run home workshops, usually with the help of their children, supporting their families through the sale of artisanal items at Querétaro’s local markets.
The evening included a panel discussion, titled Doing great things together!, on the experiences and learnings from the program as well as its impact in the context of the wider fashion industry. Moderated by Farah Slim, Head of Editorial Content of Glamour México y Latinoamérica, the panel included Mariarosa Cutillo, Chief of Strategic Partnerships of UNFPA, Galo Bertin, fashion designer and Program Advisor, Adriana Barrón, artisan (San Juan del Río, Querétaro), Estela Porfirio, artisan (Amealco, Querétaro), Emilienne Limón, Mexico Artisan Program Advisor of Nest.
After the initial opening remarks and the panel discussion, guests explored an exhibition that showcased twenty designs from the artisans, which they created during the program.
Bitter & Sweet by Emi Iguchi & Camille Ange Pailler
Sia Arnika velvet dress
Untitled Lab x Sia Arnika leather boots
Von Dutch cap
Wolford leopard tights
photography by Emi Iguchi
styling by Camille Ange Pailler
hair and makeup by Janette Peters
casting direction by Ananya Nisbet
model Lilja Drab via @elf_mgmt
photo assistance by Heinrich Wrede
styling assistance by Nadine Sham
Katharina Dubrick knit wool top and mittens
Lina Nix skirt
Sia Arnika jumpsuit
Olivia Ballard bomber jacket
Lina Nix tutu skirt
Von Dutch cap
Sia Arnika velvet dress
Celine denim hooded jacket and shorts
Our Legacy t-shirt
Sia Arnika x Untitled Lab leather boots
Wolford leopard tights
Malene Specht jacket
Celine short
Celine short
Wolford leopard tights
Olivia Ballard bomber jacket
Sia Arnika jumpsuit
Olivia Ballard bomber jacket
Lina Nix tutu skirt
Valentino dress and sandals
Malene Specht jacket
Celine short
Sia Arnika x Untitled Lab leather boots
Cissel Dubrick shirt
Olivia Ballard shirt
Valentino dress
Cissel Dubrick shirt
Olivia Ballard shirt
Watch Celine 22 "Symphonie Fantastique" Featuring Their Winter 24 Men's Collection
In 1969, Leonard Bernstein described the "Symphonie Fantastique" as the first psychedelic symphony ever composed, and more than 100 years before the dawn of the movement in the late 1960s.
"...those sounds you're hearing come from the first psychedelic symphony in history, the first musical description ever made of a trip, written one hundred thirty odd years before the Beatles, way back in 1830 by the brilliant french composer Hector Berlioz. He called it "Symphonie Fantastique," or "Fantastic," and fantastic it is, in every sense of the word, including psychedelic."
Hedi Slimane discovered the "Symphonie Fantastique" at the age of 11 and became passionate about the romantic musical piece by the young Berlioz. Hector Berlioz was only 26 years old when he was in an obsessive relationship with English actress Harriet Smithson, which led him to compose the "Symphonie Fantastique" on December 5th 1830 in Paris.
Directed by Hedi Slimane
© hedi slimane photography and film
The "Symphonie fantastique" collection was filmed between January and February in the Mojave desert and Los Angeles.
Makeup artist: Aaron de Mey
Hair stylist: Esther Langham
Hair colorist: Alex Brownsel
A Look Inside Cartier's Newly Designed Boutique In South Coast Plaza Inspired By The Environs Of Southern California
Cartier announces the recently completed renovation and expansion of its newly-designed Costa Mesa boutique, with the creative direction led by Moinard Betaille agency, who drew inspiration from Orange County’s diverse landscape—from its local vegetation to the shimmering waters at Laguna and Newport Beaches, and from the nearby Mojave Desert’s sweeping sand dunes to the cracked earth at Joshua Tree. The boutique’s overall design pairs modern shapes with the Maison’s timeless design codes and a touch of whimsical details. A Livatz glass canopy light inspired by the region’s ubiquitous skateparks adds a playful touch to the accessories and care service areas, while custom-designed chandeliers in the shape of dahlias—a symbol of eternal love—decorate the bridal area’s ceiling. The bridal area is also home to a lacquer and mother-of-pearl panel by Atelier Midavaine, depicting inspired by a High Jewelry brooch in the shape of an orchid native to Southern California. Visitors approaching the boutique will notice the unique three-dimensional façade, the first of its kind for the Maison in North America. Handcrafted in aqua resin with plaster details, it is intended to evoke a soft sea breeze wafting through the window, gathering the curtains in gentle pleats. Upon entry, guests are met with Cartier novelties set against a large panel depicting a panther by François Mascarello, fashioned in wood, straw, and mother-of-pearl marquetry. Local flora can be found throughout the boutique, including the handcrafted staff columns inspired by palm trees and the hand-painted Moss + Lam mural depicting a hyperreal portrait of local vegetation in dusty desert tones. The new boutique will be open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 am – 8:00 pm, and will offer a full range of creations, including jewelry, fine jewelry, watches, leather goods, fragrance, and Art of Living, in addition to other special collections. 3333 Bristol Street in the renowned South Coast Plaza shopping center.
Celine Announces New Fragrance Zouzou With Campaign Featuring Esther-Rose McGregor
Zouzou is the new opus in the Celine Haute Parfumerie collection initiated in 2019. It comes to join the eleven perfumes conceived by Hedi Slimane for the launch of the line. all of them are in keeping with the tradition of the "couturier parfumeur" and recapture the excellence of french haute parfumerie. the collection is comprised of twelve creations to date. With Zouzou finding its place in the day collection.
Balenciaga's Le City Bag Returns With a Nod to the Early Aughts
First launched in 2001, Le City has become synonymous with an era and a lifestyle known for its enigmatic maximalist yet practical approach. Over twenty years since its initial debut, Le City makes a comeback as a reconstituted icon.
To celebrate the launch, Balenciaga unveils a campaign of portraits shot by Mario Sorrenti that highlights the brand’s newly reintroduced early aughts design that featuring British fashion icon Kate Moss, Danish model Mona Tougaard, Chinese actress and singer Yang Chaoyue, and Korean singer Juyeon. The individuality of each talent is foregrounded against a grey background in striking still images and videos.
Scarlett Johansson Stars in New Prada Galleria Campaign Directed by Jonathan Glazer
Talent: Scarlett Johansson
Director: Jonathan Glazer
Creative Director: Ferdinando Verderi
An actor is ceaselessly reinventing, and reinvented, transcending their own selves to embody the myriad of characters they can become. Here, the magnetic draw of the movie star is harnessed as a means of connecting to character, to personality, and to that constant shifting of identity that emblematizes both film and fashion.
Captured in New York City by director Jonathan Glazer, the still and motion images showcase Johansson as an actor, honing her art — repeating phrases with different feeling and meaning, she showcases the infinite self-transformation that define an actor’s skill. Abstracted, unreal, it is film at its most cinematic. Yet, as Johansson exits the studio, we then leap from screen to reality — albeit a reality fictionalized, idealized for us. In a quintessentially Prada dichotomy, the intimacy that the act of performing is able to generate contrasts with a panoramic normality of everyday life. Cinéma vérité — Johansson, seemingly undirected, as her true self.
The instrument of Johansson’s everyday is the Prada Galleria handbag, seen here as a tool of life rather than a product, a part of an everyday wardrobe. As with Johansson its persona can transform; as with acting, it is a symbol of excellence in craft. Here, the Prada Galleria is showcased, in motion, as a fundamental facet of a woman’s reality.
Louis Vuitton's Spring 2024 Men's Capsule Collection Is A Fusion of Visions
creative direction by Tyler, the Creator and Pharrell Williams
Louis Vuitton’s iconic imagery is a staple in the fashion world, unique and identifiable amidst the ever-changing tides of trends. Despite this classic style that cements the brand’s singular voice, their ability to evolve and innovate that image is constant. The 2024 Men’s Capsule Collection displays this innovation while still staying true to the brand’s face by staging an instinctive union between the visual universes, combining the distinctive artistic voices of the Menswear Creative Director Pharrell Williams with long time friend of him and the brand, Tyler, the Creator. Fusing the signature preppy sophistication popularized by the artist with the elegant dandy dressing established by Pharrell Williams at the Maison, it evokes the brand’s common palette of earthy creams and browns, as well as muted yet still vibrant blues and greens to support the pops of bright color that bring the air of spring into this lineup. The emblem of the collection being a craggy monogram, hand-drawn by the artist himself. Throughout the collection you can feel the creative collaboration take place and see the marriage of these two’s strong visions come together.
Miu Miu's Fall/Winter 2024 Collection Traces Life From Girlhood to Womanhood
The Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2024 collection by Miuccia Prada draws inspiration from the span and scope of people’s lives, its shifting clothing types reflective of the development of character, both personal and universal to form a vocabulary of clothing, from childhood to adulthood.
Concurrent gestures express different moments in life — they coexist within single outfits, just as we each hold simultaneous memories of our own experience. Evocations of childhood are expressed with deliberately shrunken proportions, cropped sleeves, and round-toed shoes; archetypical clothing types that directly recall those worn in youth. Childhood is a moment of impulsive, natural rebellion, here reflected in the liberation of a dichotomous mixing of different codifications of dress, pajamas with outerwear, proper with improper, right with wrong. By contrast, adulthood is expressed through recognized signifiers of propriety and chic — gloves and handbags, brooches, tailoring, the little black dress. Like mnemonic devices, clothes can make us both think back, and project forwards.
Those components of duality and recollection find counterparts in materials and construction. Bonding and fusing meld together different fabrics and combine disparate garments, sweaters and cardigans in silk and cashmere, poplin skirts with knit, while shearling is treated to mimic precious fur. Silk dresses are creased and molded to cotton jersey sheaths, volumes reduced with the impression of the original garment remaining, a trace of its antecedent.
As the collection reconsiders characteristic signifiers of life through the vocabulary of clothing, so our literal vocabulary can be readdressed. Girlishness is a word we can revalue, from a pejorative gendered noun, anchored to age, to a universal idiom expressive of the strength of rebellion, a spirit of freedom and individuality, one attribute of a richer whole. Perceived as an inherent component of Miu Miu, it should be examined not as a lone trait but as a fundamental aspect of a wider temperament — a notion expressed through a cast of personalities who each embody this ever-shifting Miu Miu persona. They include Dara Allen, Ethel Cain, Guillaume Diop, Luther Ford, Angel Hazody, Kristin Scott Thoe, Qin Huilan, Little Simz, Jasmin Savoy Brown and Ángela Molina, who also features in Miu Miu Women’s Tales.
Contemporaneity allows divergent creative processes to arrive at paradoxically correlated results. The Palais d’Iéna is punctuated by video installations created by the Belgian-American artist Cécile B. Evans, art considered as a tool to enrich and expand conversation around people. Conceived independently of the collection, by chance the notions of the survival of memory in their art finds echo within the clothes. This is a shared language, one informed by the moment we all live within, a universal message nevertheless resonant with our unique experience.
Highlights from Acne Studios' Winter 24 Presentation
Inspired by industrial materials and the human form, Acne’s winter 24 collection features a blend of toughness and craftsmanship in leather and denim garments. It is staged against the backdrop of two large-scale sculptures made from recycled tires by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo. These sculptures, titled Chairs in Rubber (2001), represent a fusion of craftiness and industrial aesthetics.
“I consider myself a sculptor in the most traditional sense. What interests me about working with tires is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material: it requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tire makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque.
”For my artworks, I have often used recycled materials, such as used car tires or utilized fluorescent tubes. Environmental issues have been important in terms of employing these, but to me, what’s even more interesting is the trace that the former lives have left to the recycled things I use for making something new, also the idea of putting something familiar into a new context,” says the artist Villu Jaanisoo.
The collection embodies a fast and futuristic woman, reshaping Acne Studios' signature codes of denim and leather with a raw, mechanical twist. It juxtaposes elevated femininity with a tough attitude, subverting traditional archetypes of womenswear. Classic elements like fur (both faux and shearling), ladylike handbags, a timeless black dress, and leather are reimagined with a contemporary edge.
“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late ’90s was called ‘leather and denim;’ two things that belong together. This season, we’ve created a powerful leather and denim woman. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements. Denim and leather can transcend genre and subcultures — from punk to S&M. When you want to feel tough you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels right. An empowering safety zone,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
Discover Celine's Womenswear Winter 24 'L'Arc de Triomphe' Collection & Celine Beauté
"La Collection de l'Arc de Triomphe" reflects back on the 1960s, the golden age of Celine, capturing the essence and spirit of the house through coordinated looks and authentic reweaved materials. Ready-to-wear pieces are combined with hand-embroidered couture items, while felt caps offer a ’60s reinterpretation of the classic Celine baseball cap.
Upon his arrival at Celine in 2018, Hedi Slimane reintroduced the "Triomphe" emblem, featuring it prominently on the Triomphe bag, which he designed on his first day. The Triomphe bag quickly became a new classic for the house, symbolizing its core essence and values.
“La collection de l’Arc de Triomphe” film marks the birth of Celine Beauté, the first cosmetics line in the house’s history. Models wear “La Peau Nue” rose naturel lipstick, one of the fifteen shades of the “Le Rouge Celine” collection that will be available in 2025. The Celine Beauté collection will launch this autumn with the first satin lipstick shade “Rouge Triomphe.”
Ready When Worn: the Avant-Première of MM6 Maison Margiela AW24
For the Avant premiere of AW24, MM6 explores the liminal state of a silhouette morphing between urban cool and couture refinement. Looks hover in limbo. Elegance with wit, puns and double entendres. Clothes that aren’t ready-to-wear: they’re ready when worn, molding to the character of the wearer. Oblique references to Man Ray bring an undercurrent of bohemian elegance, evoking artists, celebrities, friends, lovers and other singular types who move through life like it’s a work of art. Characters inhabiting an uncannily parallel world, with unexpected textures, raw finishes and, of course, white paint.
The familiar skews obscure as staples and archival garments adopt new attitudes, blending minimalism with maximalism on vintage-leaning pieces and riffing on classic masculine codes of dress, with cleverly placed darts reconfiguring silhouettes and tailoring language extended to pieces considered outside the traditional tailoring realm.
Pockets come to the fore as functional, multiple, exaggerated emblems of utility, with asymmetrical placements creating critical distance from the usual technical sportswear tropes.
For night, a bedding theme plays out in Lycra bodysuits and dresses in an allover trompe l’oeil quilt print as well as on a pink t-shirt with a flocked Party Bear motif lifted from an old kids’ duvet. True to MM6 codes, humble materials become ornamental: the lining of a black dress is pulled out, twisted and looped around the neck to create intriguing yet elegant volumes. Waistbands are flipped to create couture-like tulip hem effects, and tops are slashed with zips, sexing up something quite mundane. Roughly hewn “replacement” panels on pants suggest customization as hard-loved, well-worn clothing, like sun-bleached ribbed knits and ultra-wrinkled stonewashed denim, take on a new personality. A white cotton shirt, biker jacket and trench coat are gutted and reconstructed with all the details flattened out, their open collars and cuffs sewn into place permanently.
As if lifted from a construction site, a bucket and a rubble sack join the MM6 accessories universe as a molded EVA bucket bag and a tote. Footwear additions include a cream version of the Anatomic clog, a vulcanized lace-up, the Stitch-Out Anatomic boot with a raised ridge detail on the toe and the Tube boot with an anatomic toe, cigarillo heel and wide shaft in suede. Throughout, a sleek monochromatic palette of black, white, camel, gray and chalk is enlivened with shades of green and jolts of pink.
The season also marks the launch of the first ready-to-wear collaboration with Salomon: a capsule of minimalist classics — a five-zip mackintosh, a five-pocket jean, a shell jacket with long body zips, a classic men’s tuck-in shirt — are made from bonded Gore-Tex, bringing an almost alien functionality to a cityscape. The complementary Seamless line blends influences from compression base layers worn by athletes to speed recovery and MM6 bodysuits on a compression top, leggings, arm warmers and a bodysuit. The Water Bottle bag, the Trailblazer.
Pocket Backpack and a cap complete the lineup. By focusing on simple gestures that transform everyday dressing, MM6 continues its exploration of clothing, form and wearability. Pieces spark an immediate connection and play on the duality of perception, slipping easily into a wardrobe purposefully prepared to let personality shine through.
Highlights From Balenciaga's Winter 24 Collection during Paris Fashion Week
Taking place at les Invalides, under a set of screens tracking a narrative timeline from morning to night over natural and electronic landscapes, the projected images shift from actual to artificial—or somewhere in between the two states. Editing, splicing, content sharing, scrolling: each element and more plays across the monitors.
The soundtrack is composed by BFRND and features high energy rhythms, hypnotic melodies and voices turned into synths.
The 24/7, a limited-edition wraparound mask, has an aerodynamic single-mold design that seamlessly obscures the wearer’s face around the eyes and along its sides by enveloping it from every angle. Ergonomic hollows hold each ear—looping under instead of simply sitting atop. Each end of the mask tapers toward the back of the head, leaving an opening so it can easily be donned or removed. A Balenciaga logo is lasered onto the left side.
Another standout was the limited-edition eBay t-shirt, with only 200 produced. The garment can be found in classic Balenciaga gray with a distressed treatment and eBay’s multi-colored logo.
Balenciaga Announces Music Series Collaboration With The Late American Composer Angelo Badalamenti
Balenciaga announces its Music Series collaboration with late award-winning American composer and arranger Angelo Badalamenti. An original playlist that was hand-selected by Badalamenti featuring a compilation of his own works will be available to stream or download at balenciaga.com/angelobadalamenti. Simultaneously, a series of limited-edition Balenciaga Music | AngeloBadalamenti merch will be available in selected stores and on balenciaga.com. The playlist, merchandise series, and campaign will also announce a partnership with Manhattan School of Music, the conservatory where Badalamenti received his bachelor’s and master’s degree, and composition department head Dr. Reiko Fueting. As an homage to Badalamenti that in turn teaches students about his impressive oeuvre, this partnership involves the creation of a dedicated master class that invites participants to compose inspired original works to continue the late composer’s legacy. The masterclass, sponsored by Balenciaga, will be offered gratis for students currently attending Manhattan School of Music.
Prototypes' AW24 Lookbook Is Bringing It Back to Grassroots
photography by Raphael Bliss
styling by Betsy Johnson
hair by Charlie Le Mindu
makeup by Stephanie Kunz
casting by Conan Laurendot
The commercial use of sports uniforms as merchandise is perpetually being updated from one season to the next, which is why they lend themselves perfectly to a brand like Prototypes that is guided by the principles of upcycling and repurposing. Their newest collection goes beyond the age-old practice within the industry of cultural appropriation to the point of a complete aesthetic cannibalism, and instead serves as an homage to the communal role that local football clubs play within the social fabric of British culture. In this collection we see the groundskeeper, the kitman, the coach, and the youth — they are archetypes within the community that define each passing generation. Each club bears the DNA of its locality, passing down its individualized values of teamwork, physical fitness, stewardship within the field, and honor. For Prototypes Series 06, which was shot at a local club in England with collaborative partner Betsy Johnson, these values are encapsulated in a collection that breathes new sartorial life into that which might otherwise be discarded as old merch. As working class Brits currently bear witness to the gentrification of their most beloved sport, Prototypes is bringing it back to grassroots by sponsoring kits for the club’s new women’s team.
Michaela Stark Presents "The Panty Show" in Collaboration with Charlotte Rutherford @ Fondazione Sozzani In Milan
Michaela Stark’s The Panty Show, hosted by Carla and Sara Sozzani, is a hyper feminine and playful, three-part artistic expression that comprises an exhibition, performance, and presentation of her panty collection.
Michaela’s process and practice is confessional and comes from her perspective that she shares with her generation. The Panty Show combines several aspects of her body of work. The show narrates the path she has taken from her early years experimenting with draping on her own body alone in her Paris apartment to how she gained liberation through fashion.
The conceptualization of Panty began as a heavily emotional journey. When her personal work and experimentation with reshaping her body began to get her noticed, this often led to appropriation of her body and her intimacy when collaborating with other artists.
Artists Hans Baumer and John Kacere are the backdrop for the exhibition and performance at The Panty Show. Two male artists who overtly took the female form and its autonomy projecting their own ideas unto it. Stark reverses these outdated attitudes by reclaiming her voice as a female artist and by being the protagonist in her work.
The set for the performance recreates her atelier, a dusty pink chaotic tableau vivant of ribbons and dried flowers. The audience and viewers are invited to join and share her experience. In the set, Michaela dresses her model, Yasmin El Yassini, who acts as her human doll. She dresses Yasmin in her body morphing corsetry, transforming her body completely, and then stages her almost lifeless body for photographs.
For her second collaboration with Charlotte Rutherford, Stark remarks on the photographer’s ability to see the fantasy in everyone who steps in front of her camera and capture their unique energy as well as to foster an environment where everyone can act with agency over their body’s representation.
The final act of The Panty show showcases a series of lingerie-esque garments. Stark created ten sculptured dolls made out of tulle, using couture corsetry techniques and crinoline to give structure.
Her notebooks documenting her process are also on display, giving insight to her practice.
The Panty Show is on view through February 25 @ Fondazione Sozzani Vis Tazzoli 3, Milan
Read Bliss Foster's Notes on Spring 2024 Haute Couture Week in Paris
text by Bliss Foster
1. When we look at designers that are clearly a once-in-a-lifetime talent, we recognize them because they do far more than just make outstanding work — the difference between them and any other hardworking and apt fashion designer is that they have the confidence to go so far against the grain and know that they will be rewarded for it. And in John Galliano’s case this season, he leaned so far into his universe and embraced ideas whose execution would horrify most. But by marching to the beat of his own drum and embracing pubic wigs, John Galliano has enabled Maison Margiela to break through to the most mainstream attention through his portrayal of the most seedy and debaucherous Paris. The sheerest garments appeared muddied and tattered, distorting our perception of the body in a manner no different than the corsets in this show that were wrenched tight on the models. It takes a lot of work to make a gross bar the setting of something beautiful, but Galliano’s vision is so effective that he redeems this uniquely Parisian genre of hedonism: taking us from literal tatters to haute couture. It’s no surprise that the glass skin makeup, keyed by the legendary Pat McGrath, has managed to sell out every single product whose effect on the skin would even approximate what she created for the show.
2. Simone Rocha’s stab at Jean Paul Gaultier couture was a large event for celebrities, which is a largely unexpected audience for the cult following of the coquette brand. But the standard JPG audience seemed thrilled - Simone’s clothing has that effect on people. Even if you’re not the kind of person that is inherently attracted to the overtly feminine, in the hands of Simone Rocha, bows become tears and frilly dresses can become a part of showcasing your cheerless attitude. Making exuberant clothing for people who can never be as spirited as their outfit implies is beautifully complex. The JPG cone bra is given a lift, turning into spiky rose thorns. Jean Paul’s tattoo exploration from Spring 1994 is reinterpreted into a sheer, organza pannier dress, trimmed with snakes, thorny branches, and roses. It’s not Rocha’s work without jewels and crystals, which created the structure of many tulle looks, but were notably present as eyeshadow and eyebrow adornment on the faces of many models. Likewise, it’s not a JPG show without the Marinière, whose stripes this season were piped with twisting bows made of navy satin ribbon. One of my favorite details were the sock-bun earrings, wrapped in hair.
3. A poem accompanied Rahul Mishra’s couture show this season and, put succinctly, it was about appreciating the small things in life. The whole collection centered around this theme, further emphasized by the beautiful cards on the showgoers’ seats that listed the near extinction of many species of moth and butterfly. Couture has a radically different pace than the ready-to-wear calendar, and part of that includes a strange slowing down. When you have a chance to slow down, you can appreciate the incredibly intricate details that make Rahul Mishra’s haute couture such a compelling endeavor, while also digesting his discussion on biodiversity and the preservation of nature. The sheer circular shields carried by the models appear to invite us to look through the lens of a microscope and see the details of a dragonfly, a hive of bees, and the intricate patterns of a close-up honeycomb whose inspiration is spread across the entire collection. Honeycomb became crystal grids which were found on the most exciting looks in the collection.
4. The couture of Viktor and Rolf’s only raison d’etre is to bother purists who clutch their pearls about the beauty, grace, and exactitude of couture, and that is meant in the absolute best way possible. What makes V&R so special is their ability to communicate exactly what couture stands for in their luxurious, precise work, while thematically bucking every haute couture convention. The distinctive sound of scissors was turned into a walkable beat, while four looks traced the evolution of a gradual destruction and reconstruction via the very scissors the audience could hear loudly snapping away. Deconstruction itself is not easy to do well, thousands of designers try and fail at creating compelling designs through the use of deconstruction. Turning deconstruction into a sliding scale however is an entirely different goal. The in-between looks seem to capture the process of how they were created surprisingly well, but are also decorated with the motif of child-like scissor destruction, covered in the most lovely and professionally finished jagged holes.
5. Volume looks effortless when Gaurav Gupta does it, delicately swirling about the wearer, but this was a less voluminous show than usual for the brand. This season’s showing included evening jackets, trench coats and bronze bustiers, grounding this collection in a wearability that is not often seen in couture presentations. Gaurav’s devotees were dressed to the nines in his work, of course. It’s rare to see couture look so effortless and stunning on folks who aren’t walking a runway.
6. Miss Sohee’s couture radically modernizes the public’s expectation of what couture can look like. Yet, Sohee Park’s vision seems rooted in the most antiquated and vintage inspirations. Her collection was inspired by the old South Korean antiques she seems to adore, but it seems more than just inspiration. Each look appears to personify a particular and individual antique, and in this way, each look feels like a loveable, household object from Beauty and the Beast after they come to life. The cohesion in this collection is spectacularly strong while maintaining a large variety between the looks, almost as if the looks themselves are a perfectly curated shelf of objects. If Cristobal was alive today, it’s possible that some shapes in this collection would stir up some envy, most notably in the chartreuse-colored lamé gown.
7. Robert Wun’s fantasy horror show is sharp in all the right places. It’s a literal sharpness in the busts, peplums and some shoulders of these horror storybook characters. But more impressively, the execution of this collection left no detail unattended to, nothing was out of place. It’s not often you see such precision in just runway looks - usually that precision is much more expected, really demanded, in product. But being so up close to Robert Wun’s work reinforced a professionalism and an attention to detail that has left a lot to be desired from other couturiers. Every element was immovable and complete, a standard to only ever expect from the major luxury houses, and a standard that is often unfair to place onto emerging designers. But Robert Wun has been in business for 10 years, and he has experienced career highlights that emerging designers could only dream of.